Maximiliani: thanks for shring your thoughts on these classics! good read!
I am 19, so I have very little experience with fragrance aside from all my sampling. Growing up my dad wore Guerlain's Vetiver which I loved, and actually noticed when it was briefly off the market for retooling (at least that what it seemed like for a few months) and then reappeared. I forget how old I was but I noticed the difference, the color is kinda different too. He still wears it, I think it's watered down.
Anyway I've been sampling stuff, see what I like, I guess build a pallet or try to build my tastes.....a lot of stuff I just don't like. Rive Gauche pour Homme reminded me of hairy 70's celebrities. I can't stand the smell literally POURING out from Abercrombie stores or half of what a lot of other guys smell like. Everyone wears Burbery stuff. Also my younger brother wears AXE, his room smells like a hamster cage to me. Thus I am on a quest to find the best scent for me, and you guys have been a great help, I've found some real keepers ( eau d'orange verte and eau savage - love orange)
Now..the old Guerlain's intrigue me, they seem rather "holy" among the fragrance crowd and I just had to see what all this fuss is about since I'm obsessed with vintage things and am open to unisex scents or even female scents if they smell GREAT on me and will garter compliments from girls.
I've tried samples of;
Jicky Edp (I think)
Mouchoir de Monsieur
vintage Vol de Nuit Edt (Perfumed court's)
And the response from an sensitive, artsy, but heterosexual 19 year old are:
I've noticed all the fragrances seem related in notes...like, to me there IS that "old lady" not present in all of them..what IS that, the oakmoss? I picked this up in Vol de Nuit the most, which was disappointing to me because I had high hopes it would be unisex for me...and also because the opening smelled like Vetiver to me. When I first smelled it I was like " this smells like Vetiver, this is like a man's cologne, awesome!" and then came the chalkiness and a bit too sweet florals. Maybe I should check out the new edp or the new edt. Whatever the case the "house notes" present there were uncanny, totally the same greens used in Vetiver at first spray.
Jicky was kinda weird, I get the fecal/play-dough quality about it...but in all it was prettier than I had anticipated but still...it was like rose and herbs dipped in something. I couldn't decide if it was nice or offensive...but not in an obvious way.
Mouchoir de Monsieur is interesting to me because I just kept sniffing my wrist with that on. I might buy this one for formal occasions, my dad said it smelled like some alcoholic drink (I forget which). It was just...fuzzy, the Guerlainade in that is really good. Very fancy, not ordinary at all and probably my favorite but in a kind of guilty pleasure way like " Am I really supposed to like this?"
Perhaps L'Heure Bleue was the most disappointing because like one of the reviews here states that it smelled like a soap from a dormitory bathroom, and to me it totally reminded me of some types of yellow soap that you find in bathrooms or hotels...or even that liquid stuff. Somewhere down the line the fragrance was ripped off by far....cause I just couldn't take it seriously. I must have a poor nose cause I wanted it to be as great as everyone says, especially with that name, but man is it a downer. How many strengths does it come in? Maybe an edt would be better.
Mitsouko edp is faring better, a nice sharp green opening, I like those, I think I might have even liked Vol de Nuit's green opening better but it's still a nice surprise. You can see the relation of Mitsouko to both L'Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit...which is weird because I like this better, it kinda reminds me of my grandmother though...I need to ask what she wears, I wouldn't want to wear the same thing. It's far more subtle than the other old gal Guerlains that I've tried and I think could be passable. I'm not sure I can smell the peach....all I can tell is that it's warmer than Bleue and Nuit and spicier. I haven't gotten the edt version, I have a feeling I might like that more.
So that's pretty much all I gotta say, you all will probably think my nose needs more training, lol. I'm intensely curious about fragrance though. What are your masculine takes on the old Guerlains
It's great that you're open to new 'old' things. You may end up liking these one day. Revisit them in the future. Sorry if this post sounds like 3 Fortune Cookie fortunes strung together.
Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 8th January 2009 at 02:45 PM.
Fantastic posts and superior review thoughts, Maximiliani.
When you point out disliking the chalkiness and floral sweetness--maybe that's the "old lady" you're picking up--it might be the iris you're smelling. I can't be sure though, of course.
Otherwise, about Jicky, VdN, Mitsouku, and even L'Heure Bleue, of which I own and love two, an observation constantly comes to me about them. They're thought of as women's scents from the first part of the last century, but they're so deep, rich, compelling, mysterious, and with incredible "gravitas" that I think of how a powerful person would wear them--they're not for the faint of heart. I contrast that with how women's scents today are much lighter, more fruity floral, more simply lightweight. And we live in enlightened times of better respect for and opportunities for women. Yet the scents of old made them smell powerful, while today's make them smell lightweight and flighty.
Seems like a huge reverse to me, and makes me think very respectfully of the old Guerlain and Caron potions for women, which, as you've picked up, are so mighty and filled with gravitas that there's no problem for men to wear them today.
Great reviews again. Keep up the fun thinking.
That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.
Well, here I am on the Male Fragrance Forum again. But again, you guys are talking about Guerlain. I think that if Maximiliani does not like ‘Old Guerlain’, then God bless him that leaves more for those of us who do!
All kidding aside, fragrance is art; and like all other forms of art it is subjective. You have to find what you really love and what really loves you. Have fun exploring and heed the advice of these ‘wise ones’ of BN. Perhaps one of these more experienced gentlemen might suggest a specific House for you to explore.
"Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel."
I tested MANY other fragrances discussed here on BN before I tested any Guerlain's. I was always afraid I'd hate them. And I did hate a few of them, but then something happened and I started to love a few of them.
My advice is if you don't like them, put them aside and smell them in the future. In the meantime, spend your time and $ exploring fragrances that are 'easy' to love (of which Guerlain makes a few).
I'm wondering, what formula of L'Heure Bleue did you smell and not like?
Last edited by mikeperez23; 9th January 2009 at 12:34 AM.
"One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"
-- Jack Kerouac
Very unsure of the strength of L'Heure Bleue, whatever the Perfumed Court sells, which was surprisingly strong regardless. I can see how some of my observations can be perhaps a little immature, but I have great respect for these heavier greats. The powderiness is really classy and self indulgent.
I actually just got a sample of the Mitsouko EDT, in comparison to the edp and I like that a lot, it turns powdery quicker, yes, but not as heady/cloying as the Edp for me...which lasts FOREVER but dries down to something rather wonderful. I put some on yesterday on my wrist last night and I can still smell it on me, I like the drydowns on all these Guerlain's pretty much, the Guerlainade really is a skin smell only slightly sweeter, it's baby powder and I don't think ANYBODY would find that not good smelling.......that being said I might want to find a sample of modern Vol de Nuit, it's probably a bit less cloying.
I think I'll enjoy a lot of Caron's and some of the less popular/rarer Guerlain's (I loved my dad's Vetiver but the new one seems MUCH sweeter and that's not fun).
For the meantime for a fragrance house Hermes is really impressing me, I'm digging Eau de Merveilles and Eau d'Orange Verte. I tried layering them but they didn't work, I should probably check out Elixir de Merveilles....is that the same as Parfum de Merveilles? I've seen that mentioned around and I was wondering if that's the same thing.
Last edited by Maximiliani; 10th January 2009 at 12:40 AM.
It's funny - when I read your original comments I thought to myself (and almost posted) Maximiliani needs to get to a Hermes boutique! LOL Because when I got started on my fragrance hobby, Hermes was the first house I really explored and I fell in love with many of them. So, seems like we're on the same wavelength.
Please try Elixir des Merveilles: It is Eau des Merveilles mixed with a chocolate covered orange peel note. To me, it smells great in winter and I rarely wear it in the summer. The way the gourmand notes mix with the salty ambergris dry down is extremely yummy. One of JC Ellena's best uses of chocolate. Parfum des Merveilles is a deeper, richer, slightly boozy version of Eau de Merveilles. It tends to have less sillage but it lasts a long time and it slightly less salty. More mossy. More butch, if you will. It's also much more expensive.
Other Hermes scents you should try: Kelly Caleche, Un Jardin sur le Nil, Eau de Hermes and the Hermessence Series (only can be smelled in a Hermes boutique) of which Ambre Narguile and Vetiver Tonka are must sniffs.
Last edited by mikeperez23; 10th January 2009 at 07:06 AM.
"One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"
-- Jack Kerouac