Agatha Brown Conquest
Thread: SotD - Sunday, 18 Jan 09
Looking for a sample of Gucci Envy Me.
Agatha Brown Conquest
I'm in Jicky PdT today because I couldn't make up my mind about scent this morning and that told me I better try the first thing I saw that I hadn't worn in a while. Jicky is great in its own of course, but strangely what I suddely enjoy about it today is how it reminds me of Mouchoir de Monsieur.
In an un-fragrance related note I went dress shoe shopping yesterday, so today I'm trying to start breaking in a new pair. They look so good, but let the break-in pains be slight this time!
That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.
Burberry Touch. Always on my A-List.
Frederic Malle Angelique Sous La Pluie
Vetiver Babylone for a trip shopping and around town.
It got much nicer out today!
Habit Rouge - Guerlain
In a world where people smell bad, it is the personal responsibility of every Basenoter to improve the world one SotD at a time...
2 Man by Comme des Garcons
Slatkin's Black Fig & Absinthe
Happy Birthday Odysseum. Hope you have a fragrant and fun day!!!
YSL Rive Gauche
Jicky by Guerlain.
Hard choice today, but I went with
No. 88 layered with Voleur de Roses
Czech & Speake & l'Artisan Parfumeur
Everyone is entitled to his own opinions, but not his own facts. Daniel Moynihan
L'Artisan Parfumeur • SAFRAN TROUBLANT
C & s, neroli
Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard are sweeter. (Keats)
Post workout SOTE is Comme des Garcons Vettiveru
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Roadster by Cartier
Chanel Egoiste EdT
Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille
In my opinion, full bottle worthy when I have the cash.
SOTD/E: Havana by Aramis.
Chanel Cuir de Russie parfum
On first application from a dabber sample, I smell what seems to be strongly chemical leather tanning compounds. This type of leather scent is very refined, and has a sort of "new car" edge to it. Mingling quietly with the leather are light florals, some powder, and hints of manure, hay and antiseptic (castoreum) which gives a horse stable quality to the leather. Also lurking below the surface is some smoke which smells like tarry, plastic resin. It is not unpleasant like some fragrances that smell like burning plastic, but this is probably the birch tar note which gives a slight petrochemical slant to the leather. I am pretty sure there are some aldehydes also, as I smell some very faint soapyness. By far, though, the smoky tar note is the most prominent, and separates CdR from the more castoreum-heavy leather scents which are evocative of leather horse tack and saddles. Despite the barnyard quality of the castoreum, the birch tar makes the fragrance seem more industrialized, such as the smell of a freshly made pair of gentleman's boots or fine ladies' gloves.
The florals take on more of a supporting role in this fragrance in the beginning and middle stages. I am almost sure there is some iris in CdR, as there is a faint powder note which increases through the development. There is also a urinous note that becomes more intense. It seems to be very much a part of the leather, but could also be a sharp, indolic floral such as jasmine. As the parfum unfolds slowly during the middle stage, I also notice a creamy and spicy wood accord that reminds me of a similar accord in Bois des Iles or Egoiste. It is not a particularly recognizable wood, but is soft and warm, somewhat like sandalwood mixed with subtle amounts of cinnamon.
In the drydown, the floral and powder become much stronger, and the leather is mostly faded. The soft and spicy wood persists also, but the powder is the main note. Although there is really no overt leather note at this point, the floral and powder continue to evoke the memory of leather. The sharp white floral note seems most instrumental in maintaining the leather sensibility--it has been present throughout the whole development of the fragrance, and has morphed in character depending on the varying contexts of the other notes. In the drydown, the floral note is considerably softer, having lost much of its urinous edge. In the late drydown, CdR is mostly sweet vanilla, powder and perhaps a sweet musk, with a whisper of the floral and creamy wood notes still remaining. The leather is completely gone at this stage, about 4 hours after application.
With a fragrance like this, I fail to understand why Chanel tries to limit distribution. There is nothing particularly dated nor any age/gender limitations. CdR is a beautiful, classic, well-composed scent that seems appropriate for any age, man or woman, and probably any occasion, too. I am not a leather fragrance collector, but I think if I could only have one leather fragrance in my collection, CdR would be it.
Eau de Grey Flannel as SotD
Bond No.9 Great Jones as SotE
Things are things because of Mind--Zen Buddhist saying
Dzongkha from a sample. This is some ethereal stuff.
Thanx to TwoRoads & petruccijc for the bd wishes. I appreciate 'em!
My SotD is CdG's Ouarzazate. A lovely green chypre, quite dusky.
"The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas
L'Artisan Parfumeur • PIMENT BRÛLANT
Best laugh of the day! (Jack stole my shirt and Chris REFUSES to do anything about it. Now he brazenly wears it in public. The nerve!)
Whoops! I forgot to mention my scent, too. Harrumph! I blame all these interesting SotD posts.
Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne Ahhhh!
A nice, cooling, citrus scent that worked surprisingly well for heavy exertion in winter weather.