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  1. #1

    Default Quick impressions

    got a boatload of perfumes today and want to share my first impressions:

    Serge Noir - I was pretty sure I would not like this, actually and bought it to resell and thereby possibly partially finance my other purchase, L'Homme de Coeur, which I was sure I would love. Well, guess what. I actually find Serge quite intriguing. It smells exactly like a certain brand of incense stick I have lying around somewhere, with some notes of blown out candle and sweet cinnamon. Not quite sure in what context this would wear well (really cold & sunny winter days, perhaps), but I think I'm keeping it.

    L'Homme de Coeur, on the other hand, was an immediate disappointment. The opening is quite nice, with the angelica, but the iris is ruined by a cheap-smelling violet note that dominates everything - I seem to be rather sensitive to alpha-methyl ionone.

    I got a half bottle of Virgin Island Water quite cheap, and contrary to my review, this smells pretty vulgar to me right now, with an overwhelming tikki-tacky coconut note. I wish the lime and the coconut would trade places in terms of strength. It also seems to make my nose run. Maybe this one will make more sense in summer, applied very very lightly.

    Just another example for the difficulty of pinning down perceptions of smells, not so speak of making evaluations .
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  2. #2

    Post Re: Quick impressions

    L'Homme de Coeur is an interesting one. It's a well known fact that I am a fan, but some days I just can't take it. I have no idea why, but it sometimes turns into an old house smell (didn't come up with this term myself, but it sums up my experience) and reminds me of the cheap violet note in Burberry Touch and CSP Bois de Filao, which is not a good thing at all. At best the top is dominated by wonderful cool and crisp juniper note, with soft iris and woody notes working woders underneath, it can be just perfect. Only other fragrance that sometimes offers similar meltdown of the meant structure and character is LV Musk. It's probably not a coincidence that both are powdery scents.

    In both cases I get better and more constant results by dabbing. Spraying from a distance seems to emphasize the powdery aspect.
    Last edited by Johnny_Ludlow; 22nd January 2009 at 11:21 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    I hope you'll give L'Homme de Coeur several wearings before you conclude that it is spoiled by the violet. The drydown is subtle but quite wonderful and to my nose utterly organic. Shame that there is so little pleasure for you in the topnotes, though--to me they are a beautiful blend of fresh, rooty and floral.
    Great that you enjoy the Serge Noir. I'm very eager to try it. Thanks for the news!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    I share your sentiments about Serge Noire and VIW, both. Just like you, I love one and hate the other


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  5. #5
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Re: Quick impressions

    Nice to see Serge Noire getting some love. If I found incense that smelled like SN, I would buy a lot of it immediately! It's such a special fragrance to me, I rarely wear it because I save it for very special 'quiet' moments in my life (which these days, seem rarer). But when I do it can transform my mood instantly. This is a scent that I would love to smell on another man. Needless to say, I never encounter it on anyone in Miami.

    I only smelled LHC once, and loved it immediately - but then it got quickly eclipsed by my bell jar of Iris Silver Mist (which, BTW, recently got displaced with Orris by Tauer as my iris HG scent). Violet? Hmm...I'm gonna have to smell it again.

    VIW I cannot imagine wearing (or sampling) in winter. The warm weather, as well as a warm body temperature are conducive to wearing VIW comfortably. Put it away and re-sniff when it's hot - it might smell better.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 23rd January 2009 at 12:36 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    I appreciate Serge Noir.

    My initial impression of VIW was not positive at all. I wore it a few times during summer days spent at my beach house and my opinion changed. It feels more appropriate when worn on a hot sunny day or warm evening. The lime-rum accord becomes more present and the coconut doesn't feel so "weird".

  7. #7

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    Haven't tried De Coeur.

    VIW is the best of its kind (the coconut-lime, rum type tropical fragrances). It needs body heat for its light notes to come alive. Very smoothly blended.

    I like the overall accord of Serge Noire..the spicy-camphorous opening is nice, but its relatively straightforward/flat from there on. A cinnamon-patchouli woods accord with cool incense and loads of cedar till the end. I am surprised no one mentions the bucketloads of cedar in this. Also, Serge Noire makes a strong case for the "lutens are all basenotes" argument..the development is nearly non-existent and it's constructed like a wide-vista panoramic view. I don't care whether a fragrance evolves (smoothly) through three distinct stages or showcases its sparks in one big blast, but classic-construction fragrance aficionados might gripe ..
    Last edited by zztopp; 23rd January 2009 at 02:16 AM.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    Funny, I'm wearing Homme De Coeur as my SOTE.

    It's a quite nice iris and as a EPD, it has good longetivity, although it wears close to the skin without a lot of sillage.

    I prefer L'Homme Sage, though.

    Sorry you didn't like this one, and I was unsure about it at first too, but it grew on me.
    Last edited by Butthead53; 23rd January 2009 at 05:25 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Quick impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Nice to see Serge Noire getting some love. If I found incense that smelled like SN, I would buy a lot of it immediately! It's such a special fragrance to me, I rarely wear it because I save it for very special 'quiet' moments in my life (which these days, seem rarer). But when I do it can transform my mood instantly. This is a scent that I would love to smell on another man. Needless to say, I never encounter it on anyone in Miami.
    I can't find the particular incense I had in mind, but this one is akin as well: Brise Orientale by Les Encens du Monde. Sandalwood, clove and cinnamon. It's the latter two, obviously, that connect them. The clove is really quite powerful in Serge Noire. On paper I don't like that aspect, but my skin seems to handle it rather well. I'll remember to wear this should I ever be in Miami .
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

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