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  1. #1

    Talking On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    It's been a while since I asked for scent recommendations, so I'm going to be quite picky.

    Well, I love both gourmands/foody and leather-prominent scents, so I am currently on the hunt for a rich creamy sumptuous leather-heavy gourmand. I've tried looking around but didn't find anything to try to grab a sample of.

    The creamiest and closest to a leather-gourmand so far would be PG's Cuir d'Iris -- but the gourmand features are very small and vague, instead focusing on, as the name suggests, iris and leather.

    Fruity leather frags, like Daim Blond and Cuir Ottoman, aren't really what I'm looking for.

    Vanillaic (or Guerlainaide-ic) leather scents have been done before, and are done very nicely, especially (perfectly IMO) by Guerlain's Cuir Beluga.

    No, I don't agree with Chandler Burr about Indult's Reve en Cuir being not just the leather you never imagined — it is also the gourmand you never imagined. I think it's very mundane.

    My dream scent that I am looking for would be something like a cross between Aomassai and leather-prominent scents like Knize Ten or Cuir Mauresque:


    "Cuir Gourmande" (Imaginary House)
    Notes:
    Burnt Caramel, Leather from Top to Base, Roasted hazelnuts, Dark chocolate, African Spices, Balsam, Dark Woods, Resins, Musk, Castoreum, Vanilla Pods


    So, can anyone think of and recommend any leather-gourmands? I'm personally not sure if it has been done before -- but boy, would I love one. The only thing I can do about it right now sadly, is to go for layering, which is not really what I want to do at all.
    Last edited by moltening; 1st February 2009 at 06:14 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Try Histoire de Parfum's 1740 (aka Marquis de Sade). Leather, davana and a hint oif something that many have called prune and chocolate that gives it a gourmand-ish vibe.

    Update: Here are the notes from HdP's website:

    Top note : bergamot, davana sensualis;
    Heart Note : patchouli coriander, cardamom;
    Base Note : cedar, elemi, leather, labdanum.
    Last edited by surreality; 1st February 2009 at 09:19 PM.
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  3. #3

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by surreality View Post
    Try Histoire de Parfum's 1740 (aka Marquis de Sade). Leather, davana and a hint oif something that many have called prune and chocolate that gives it a gourmand-ish vibe.
    Thanks for the recommendation -- it sounds really good! Personally, I like davana a lot and think that it should be used more often. I will be adding it to my next order of samples.

    Nice name for a scent too.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    I have a decant of HdP 1740 and I'm going to disagree... I know what you're looking for Moltening, and while 1740 has some 'other' notes mixing with the leather, I have a feeling it's not what you're seeking. It's also not exactly a 'leather fragrance'. There are leather notes, but there's a lot going on and it has more of leathery feel. Of course you should definitely try it and see for yourself because it's still good.

    Etat Libre d'Orange Vierges de Toros is a little closer, though still not quite in the 'gourmand' category. If you're ordering ELdO also try Tom of Finland (leather, rubber, powder) and Je Suis en Homme (leather, patchouli).

    If you haven't tried it already, perhaps Mazzolari Lui would be close (leather, patchouli, sandalwood). It's not gourmand but it's very rich and smooth.

    You already mentioned Cuir Beluga, which was the first fragrance that came to mind, and I still think that's the closest you're going to get. You've probably already tried, or already own, Cuir Venenum (leather, orange blossom). Ava Luxe Film Noir, in the drydown, has a mix of leather/suede notes and some light fruit/floral notes in the background.

    The last thing I can think of that's even close is a new fragrance by a new house - Memoire Liquide Bespoke Perfumery - the fragrance is No.318 Cuir Millisemme (available for purchase and sampling via beautyhabit and Henri Bendel). It's a parfum, and it's a mix of leather and 'dark' fruit notes. The best way to describe it is to imagine the raisin notes in Cuir d'Iris turned way up and the strength of the leather turned down. Again, not quite gourmand, but I think it's more in line with what you're looking for.

    You may just have to layer Aomassai with a light leather like Cuir Ottoman!

  5. #5

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    I wouldn't say it's an outright gourmand, but you might really like it, and for the price, it's a "steal." Here's the blurb on it:

    "Everlast Original 1910 cologne combines top notes of mandarin, mint, grapefruit and lavender with a heart of geranium, nutmeg, cypress and cinnamon, and base notes of patchouli, leather, tonka bean and musk. It was blended by Givaudan's Antoine Lie."

  6. #6

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Of all the leather(y) scents I know Dzing! is closest to being gourmand. In the meaning that it has got a sweet candy-like line in it, whilest it is a true animal leather scent.
    Last edited by Sandy; 1st February 2009 at 07:10 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Try Lapidus pour Homme. A sweet leather/honey drydown. The opening is not my favorite though (difficult to describe). This is an 80's powerhouse scent though, so be careful with the amount.

  8. #8

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Moltening, I am not sure what you're saying about vanilla leathers and whether you don't want that. Anyway, in case you'd like to try a vanilla leather, Shalimar extrait is really excellent. The EDP has a bit less leather and more vanilla. Miller Harris L'Air de Rien I would classify more as an oriental rather than gourmand, but it is an excellent amber leather.

  9. #9

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Oh, I almost forgot, you need to try Rykiel Woman Not for Men EdP (not the EdT). From what you said, this is what you want.
    Last edited by Bigsly; 1st February 2009 at 08:30 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens

  11. #11

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    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Has anyone else noticed that Bigsly really likes that Everlast 1910? I should have bought it the last time I saw it at Marshalls, just to see what he's always recommending.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Maybe John Varvatos?
    Check out my Fragrance Review Blog

    Wishlist: Byredo Pulp, Creed Aventus, Montale Black Aoud, Original Santal, Dior Jules, Invasion Barbare, Pure Distance M

  13. #13

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    Has anyone else noticed that Bigsly really likes that Everlast 1910?
    Sometimes I wonder if he has stock in the company that markets this.
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  14. #14

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    I know what you're looking for Moltening, ...
    Then why did you recommend ELDO Viergas et Toreros? It's absolutely disgusting and doesn't deserve to be called a perfume...
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  15. #15

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    I was about to recommend Histoire de Parfum's 1740 (Marquis de Sade) which is prunes in a leather pouch really, but saw the opposition above and got me into thinking.
    The Parfumerie General Coze sounds like what you are asking but it's not a leathery perfume per se.
    Cuir Mauresque is orientalised and opulent.
    And then again there is the wonderful (and discontinued) "VIP Room" which is more interesting than Daim Blond, but harder to find now....

  16. #16

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by Critic View Post
    Maybe John Varvatos?
    I second that! Leather and Dates.

    Some times it becomes a little sweet for me with the dates, but a fine fragrance for sure!
    Last edited by The Duke; 2nd February 2009 at 01:46 PM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    I scored a bottle of Mauboussin's Histoire d'Eau recently and was surprised by the leather note that lunged out at me in the top. It also has a candied orange peel / mandarin note made more pungent by spices and gaiac wood. There is no immediately identifiable vanilla in this, but at times I think I've picked up a dry, smooth note in the drydown that might be something helped along by vanilla. This is an eau de toilette that wears like an eau de parfum. Spectacular bottle. On-line discounters have Histoire d'Eau in the 2.5 oz. size, and it's very nicely priced.

  18. #18

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Probably not a clear enough leather impression but nonetheless you might like Vetiver Oriental. It's got an almost austere take on cocoa and tonka so that the opening has a gourmand feel, and the cistus in the base gives it a bit of a leathery vibe.

  19. #19

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post
    Probably not a clear enough leather impression but nonetheless you might like Vetiver Oriental. It's got an almost austere take on cocoa and tonka so that the opening has a gourmand feel, and the cistus in the base gives it a bit of a leathery vibe.
    Yes, I agree -- I love Vetiver Oriental. It's 'high priority' in my wishlist -- so it should be popping up in the 'drobe very soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    Etat Libre d'Orange Vierges de Toros is a little closer, though still not quite in the 'gourmand' category. If you're ordering ELdO also try Tom of Finland (leather, rubber, powder) and Je Suis en Homme (leather, patchouli).

    You already mentioned Cuir Beluga, which was the first fragrance that came to mind, and I still think that's the closest you're going to get. You've probably already tried, or already own, Cuir Venenum (leather, orange blossom). Ava Luxe Film Noir, in the drydown, has a mix of leather/suede notes and some light fruit/floral notes in the background.

    The last thing I can think of that's even close is a new fragrance by a new house - Memoire Liquide Bespoke Perfumery - the fragrance is No.318 Cuir Millisemme (available for purchase and sampling via beautyhabit and Henri Bendel). It's a parfum, and it's a mix of leather and 'dark' fruit notes. The best way to describe it is to imagine the raisin notes in Cuir d'Iris turned way up and the strength of the leather turned down. Again, not quite gourmand, but I think it's more in line with what you're looking for.

    You may just have to layer Aomassai with a light leather like Cuir Ottoman!
    Quote Originally Posted by surreality View Post
    Then why did you recommend ELDO Viergas et Toreros? It's absolutely disgusting and doesn't deserve to be called a perfume...
    I will have to be giving Etat Libre d'Orange Vierges de Toros a try soon!

    Cuir Venenum is something I didn't expect to like at all, but I do! Somehow, it smells like leathery berry juice to me... and Cuir Beluga is pretty amazing and really something I like.

    I haven't tried anything from Memoire Liquide Bespoke Perfumery. So I will make sure to grab a sample of No.318 Cuir Millisemme. It sounds like it has a place alongside Cuir d'Iris.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens
    Cuir Mauresque is great -- and is what I actually hoped Serge Lutens would bring as a limited export, instead of Borneo 1834 last year. (feels like just a little while a go though)

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Moltening, I am not sure what you're saying about vanilla leathers and whether you don't want that. Anyway, in case you'd like to try a vanilla leather, Shalimar extrait is really excellent. The EDP has a bit less leather and more vanilla. Miller Harris L'Air de Rien I would classify more as an oriental rather than gourmand, but it is an excellent amber leather.
    I love both vanilla-leathers and amber-leathers, but I was trying to aim for a gourmand that was heavy on leather as I am having trouble finding one that fits the bill.

  20. #20

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Eau d' Iles by MPG. You will want to try this one! Coffee + Smoke + Leather. It has a mysteriousness about it. This fragrance smells almost identical to L'Artisan Parfumer L' Eau de Navigataeur - both are smokey coffee oakmoss leather fragrances.

    Also, Miller Harris Cuir d' Oranger manages to combine a very edible orange with a dry roughout leather. It's one of my favorite leather fragrances - but also has the orange too.

  21. #21

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Forgot Cuir d'Oranger! How could I? Yes, wonderful leather and very original composition.

  22. #22

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    have you sampled Cruel Intentions by Kilians...? i think it should satify your craving for gourmands. i also detect something very animalic towards the base...not very leathery, but certainly projects some like that.

  23. #23

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    I was inspired by this thread today and tried layering Cuir d'Iris with Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille. I am pleasantly surprised and enjoying the outcome that the two have created.

  24. #24

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    If you haven't tried it already, perhaps Mazzolari Lui would be close (leather, patchouli, sandalwood). It's not gourmand but it's very rich and smooth.
    This was the first one that came to mind when I read the title of the thread - partly because I happened to be wearing it for the first time yesterday. If you haven't tried it yet, you absolutely must A.S.A.P!

  25. #25

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    Has anyone mentioned Dior Homme?

  26. #26

    Default Re: On the Hunt for.... a Leather-Gourmand?

    DZING! went the strings of my heart.

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