Sounds wonderful. Still have to try it!
I just got a new bottle of Jules, compared it with a vintage bottle in my wardrobe dating from the 1980's and arrived to the conclusion that it is, by far, the most manly scent I ever tried / had in my life: indolic floral notes and civet mid notes morphing into bitter leather.
The question to BNoters into niche scents would be if you can recall an analogous scent in terms of both its uniqueness and manlyness.
Sounds wonderful. Still have to try it!
I have to start by asking why a niche scent in the mold of Jules would be necessary to own if one already possessed and enjoyed the Dior, but that aside, some other scents (niche or not) that give me the same impression are Lauder for Men, Yatagan, Azzaro pour Homme, Or Black, Havana, Knize Ten, and Parfum d'Habit. These don't necessarily smell all that much like Jules, but they all project some of the same monumental presence and bold, animal power. Note that many, if not all are products of the late 1970s or the 1980s, when broad shouldered masculines were in vogue.
Luca Turin claims that Amouage Ciel is Jules dirty off-spring. He mentions the use of costus as the 'urinary' note that makes Jules feel so indecent. I'm not certain if there actually is any civet in Jules.
Perhaps another Basenoter can confirm this.
Pollux - where did you get this new bottle of Jules? It's non-existent here in the US.
I quite frankly don't get any leather in Jules. The most prominent note in the drydown is cedar. I think the closest fragrance to Jules' drydown is eau de Cedre by Heely. However the top notes don't show any similarity.
"Whereof one cannot speak, one must remain silent thereof." --Wittgenstein
QUOTE=InconcievableZen;1425057]Sounds wonderful. Still have to try it![/QUOTE]
It is by far the "unsafest" blind buy ever. Just to give you an idea on perceptions it generates, the friend who bought it tried it and found it horrible; after listening to his comments, two secretaries asked to try it and, seriously, asked me if it was supposed to be that way. The begged me to wear it just to smell it on my skin for they could not give credit as to changing notes. One of the girls thought it was very traditional smelling with the phrase "why do I associate it with an older gentleman?". The other agreed that it was far different from the scents actualy in fashion with the remark "It certainly distinguisihes itself from Aqua Di Gio, did you use this when you were 20? (I am 45 now)... Wow!".
I find similarities with a bitter leather in it as in older perfumes (Cuir de Russie by Vigny). Wondered the "bitterness" relates to the russian leather mentioned in BN's Fragrance Directory pyramid.
Vibert's opinion is right, however, being so complex I wondered niche houses might be interested in a reformulation or adaptation. Someone here in BN commented Lauder for Men similarities with Jules, but it is unavailable down here, so I guess I will have to bother someone traveling in the USA.
Here's the accords for Jules from Scent Direct.
I have to say I adore Jules, I think it is one of the greatest scents created. I have worn it myself (I adore masculine scents), and I can say the only scent it brings to mind (in a fashion) is vintage Bandit by Piguet, which is considered a feminine, albeit a feminine with you know whats. So even though Jules may not have civet in it, I can compare it to a classic which had lots of civet, and nitro-musks in it (oh the good old days before regulations). Another it makes me recall, also vintage version, is Cabochard (also a feminine); Luca describes the vintage as having almost an unwashed undies type of quality, which is quite the understatement.
Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser ŕ sa source
I'm thinking of the urinary note in Muscs Kublai Khan. I mean, doesn't the name just spell it out? I am MAN, hear me roar! This one smells like the sexiest caveman you ever saw, decidedly dirty and you hate that-but you let him drag you off by the hair anyway
When it is powered up by some herbs, flowers and spices (lily of the valley, ylang, jasmine (civet, indole), coriander, cumin, basil, sage, patchouly) - that quality blooms as even more dirty. If you are aware with the smells of vintage Jules Dior (1980), Monsieur Carven (1978), Eau Cendree Jacomo (1974), Cravache Piguet (1963), Eau de Guerlain (1974) and some others colognes of 70-80`s - you could draw the dirty colognes development line.
Castoreum adds some dirtiness too (Cabochard Gres, Azuree Lauder, Cachet Matchabelli, Cravache Piguet, less Macassar Rochas comes to mind for the moment). And sometimes it could be mixed up with the leather.
Vetiver The Great!!!
Yes, there is another fragrance which matches Jules in manliness: unfortunately, it's an almost extinct scent: Cuirasse, by Jacques d'Auvillers.
Cuirasse, probably doomed by what it's name sounds like in English (in French it means suit of armor), is a perfect embodiment of a certain type of scent. It's unironically manly, almost like what I imagine something like Stetson smells like, but in a posh sort of way. I found a bottle on the German eBay site a few years ago, and I haven never seen any other bottle for sale. It's impossible to find anything about "Jacques d'Auvillers" who created this unique masterpiece.The last time I saw some for sale was October, 1987, in Montreal. It evokes nightclubs, unrequited love, "insight, endurance, and action", the whole mystery of life, and for that reason it's not particularly suited for the office, but serves well for other quietly pleasurable, yet melancholic purposes.
While not exactly similar, but Tom Ford Moss Breches is somewhat similar kind of a scent if you are looking for niche. Whats good is Moss Breches might be one of only a few Tom Fords that have *some* effort put into it.
Not particularly similar to Jules , but I mention it here just because it is possibly the most typically masculine smelling scent I have sampled to date. It is MAAAANLY ... With lots of cognac, birch and tons of leather (though not sure about the civit?) it's ... ELd'O - Je Suis un Homme. Even it's name says it all.
As for Jules ... it's ok, not a favorite of mine ... But I always feel I should have one in my wardrobe anyway because my name is Jules. ... So it's just nice having a frag with my own name on it ! ;o)
New bottle (bought a month ago): first picture.
Old bottle (bought in the 1980's): second picture.
I'm a huge Jules fan and just wore it as my SOTD last week or so. The leather notes are apparent, but not until deep into the drydown when the composition takes on a very smooth, leathery feel to it. There's nothing really approximating leather until that point. For a fragrance that is so wild and bold, there is also a certain class and refinement to Jules that is difficult to articulate. I'm usually not a fan of the 80s power-frags, but the refinement of Jules makes it very wearable.
I also happen to own a well-kept vintage Bandit parfum, and that seems to be the original stuff.
There's definitely a link between Bandit - Cabochard - Aramis - Jules.
It just dawned on me that Malle's French Lover/Bois d'Orage seeks to create the same manly-fougere vibe as Jules, though it doesn't recreate Jules itself.
Jules reminds me of a manlier version of Jean Desprez Bal a Versailles.