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Thread: Heliotrope

  1. #1

    Default Heliotrope

    I consider my previous two threads on "what to try when searching for note X" a great success, so I call upon your combined expertise once again.
    I may just like heliotrope. I thought I didn't, but it appears I do. So my quest du jour is for a heliotrope-centred frag. Now, running the note through the directory gives approximately a bazillion results - I believe it must be used to round out many floral bouquets. It's hard to pick those where the heliotrope plays a central role.

    (EDIT: *just* found tdi's thread from a year ago (to the day almost! must be the season) which didn't come up on the search function. Reading with interest.)

    Ones I've already tried:
    Ava Luxe Heliotrope
    Profumum Volo AZ 686
    Jil Sander Sun
    Serge Lutens Datura Noir
    BPAL O (no heliotrope in the notes, but my nose tells me there is - no clue who's right there)

    Ones I think I ought to try:
    Etro Heliotrope
    Voluspa Cult of Helios
    Avon Heliotrope

    With the added complication that the latter two aren't available in Yurp, I think.
    Suggestions?
    Last edited by Morgaine; 4th February 2009 at 08:27 PM.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Après l'ondée

    Heliotrope is front and center.

    A love-it-or -hate-it fragrance.

    I love, love, love it.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  3. #3

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Yes, of course. I knew that. I *have* tried Après L'Ondee a while back, and have nary a memory of it. The Guerlinade just doesn't resonate with me, in general. But still, worth a retry. Thanks!
    It is known that there are an infinite number of worlds, simply because there is an infinite amount of space for them to be in. However, not every one of them is inhabited. Any finite number divided by infinity is as near nothing as makes no odds, so the average population of all the planets in the Universe can be said to be zero. From this it follows that the population of the whole Universe is also zero, and that any people you may meet from time to time are merely products of a deranged imagination.

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  4. #4

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I've recently discovered that I love heliotrope, too; so I'm very interested in your discoveries.

    From what I've experienced so far (in 2008):
    Aqua Allegoria Angelique-Lilas has it noticeably.
    It's also in Omnia Amethyste.
    Kenzo Flower Le Parfum (in the red bottle) has a rich amount of it.
    Fleur Oriental by Miller Harris, a recent love of mine, also has a healthy dollop.
    And I adore it in Ozwald Boateng's Orange, which I never would have known about but for Musse.

    I love the way heliotrope adds a creamy edible floral quality. It's addictive to me. It seems to go equally well in citrussy-light florals, or rich orientals. I'm going to check out some of the ones you have listed as well.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Don't forget the easily unisex Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron.
    (Talk about an absolute bomb of heliotrope, esp. in the edp formulation!)
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 4th February 2009 at 09:51 PM.

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  6. #6

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I thought L'Eau d'Hiver was a heliotrope centered fragrance. Any yays or nays?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I'd definitely recommend L.T Piver Heliotrope Blanc - a pure, uncluttered, and very natural smelling heliotrope. Les Senteurs website has samples available if you'd like to test and the perfume itself is not expensive. D&G Feminine is also worth testing - it has heliotrope in with a light floral mix of cyclamen, lily and wisteria. The overall feel of Feminine is similar to Heliotrope Blanc, light airy and very easy to wear IMHO. Lalique Le Parfum also has heliotrope so it might be something you would like. What is your impression of Datura Noir? Is it light and airy or dense and sultry - I can never quite tell from the reviews.

  8. #8
    heart of ice
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Heliotrope is one of my favorite notes ... and it is included in a lot of different kind of scents.

    For Heliotrope in a starring role, you HAVE to try Etro Heliotrope. It also has some almond and vanilla and other yummy stuff to make it clean, airy, and almost ethereal feeling.

    Other fragrances I enjoy that have at least some heliotrope include:

    Dolce Vita
    Jaipur Homme
    Jaipur Saphir
    Herve Leger
    L'Heure Bleue
    Cuir Beluga
    Gucci Eau de Parfum (the brown juice one, the pink juice one also lists heliotrope, but I don't care for that one)
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  9. #9

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    I thought L'Eau d'Hiver was a heliotrope centered fragrance. Any yays or nays?
    'Yay' here. Definitely heliotrope centered, and you beat me to it, lushsoup.

    And I'll also agree with shadesofbleu's recommendation of Gucci Eau de Parfum. It's a very rich and Oriental fragrance, but that heliotrope is definitely out there in front. Love it.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I was looking for heliotrope in Ozmoz & found Viv. Westwood Sin Garden http://www.osmoz.com/fragrances/Haut...ir-SIN-GARDEN# it looks interesting. Does anybody know it?
    Currently wearing: Aperçu by Houbigant

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Actuallty, one of the best Heliotrope scents I know of, where the heliotrope is pronounced, is Heliotrope by Molinard, it is part of Les Senteurs line of scents.
    Last edited by Brielle87; 5th February 2009 at 12:41 AM. Reason: oops
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  12. #12

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by lushsoup View Post
    I thought L'Eau d'Hiver was a heliotrope centered fragrance. Any yays or nays?

    HUGe yay to that one!
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I was reading about Heliotrope the other day at Bo Jensen's website and here are a couple of quotes that I found to be of interest:

    Although the heliotrope fragrance has always been admired in perfumery, extraction of the flowers has never been successful. Knowledge of the constituents of the fragrance is also very limited. A Japanese study from 1995 identified benzaldehyde, anisaldehyde and benzyl acetate as major components, but these compounds alone don't explain the unique fragrance of the flowers...

    The chemical compound 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde has been given the name 'heliotropin' because its odour somewhat resembles that of heliotrope. However, it is not found in this flower.
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I can't resist a heliotrope thread. First, I may have a deserved reputation for disliking vanilla. CORRECT! Yet that is only in perfumes.
    Each year I devotedly grow heliotrope flowers. I find that fresh floral scent -- a distinctive combination of vanilla, cinnamon and baby powder -- to be compelling. I love getting whiffs of it as I pass my lovely deep purple flowers.
    I would never wear such a scent, but I can certainly appreciate it. So I wish you well in your sun-oriented ("helio-tropic") quest.
    Last edited by odysseusm; 10th February 2009 at 01:46 PM.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    As a confirmed Heliotrope fan, I can definitely second Piver's Heliotrope Blanc as worth trying.
    If you PM me with your address I can send you a sample Veuve Amiot.It smells just like the Cherry PIe
    Heliotrope flower.It is more natural than the Etro and creamier.
    There is another scent called Lullaby by Jeffrey Dame (over on POL,) which has a lot of heliotrope in it
    and is very unusual in a soft, pillowy kind of way - really beautiful. I can also send you a sample of that if you'd like.
    Other scents with Heliotrope include Dolce Vita and Emporio Armani She.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I just realized, I've never smelled real heliotrope! I only know it from a bottle, and that is virtual reality.
    Well, if the reconstruction is as good as lily of the valley in Diroissmo I'm OK. Otherwise? Hmmmm. Time to commune with nature, I guess.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I'm definitely going to plant some heliotrope this spring. It's going on my "to plant" list right now.

  18. #18
    heart of ice
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I'm definitely going to plant some heliotrope this spring. It's going on my "to plant" list right now.
    I think I'm going to give it another try this spring too. I planted some a few years ago, but it didn't work out so well.
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  19. #19

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Try to get the variety called "Cherrie Pie" - it's very heavily scented.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    I just realized, I've never smelled real heliotrope! I only know it from a bottle, and that is virtual reality.
    Well, if the reconstruction is as good as lily of the valley in Diroissmo I'm OK. Otherwise? Hmmmm. Time to commune with nature, I guess.
    Same here! Even worse (confession time!), I never realized the flowers were purple. From how they smell in perfume, I'd assumed they'd be white or cream coloured.

    Today I got to smell D&G Feminine, and it's heliotrope-y indeed! A very airy, light, sweet heliotrope. I think I prefer the slightly heavier, more rounded out type, as in the Ava Luxe one or Datura Noir.
    It is known that there are an infinite number of worlds, simply because there is an infinite amount of space for them to be in. However, not every one of them is inhabited. Any finite number divided by infinity is as near nothing as makes no odds, so the average population of all the planets in the Universe can be said to be zero. From this it follows that the population of the whole Universe is also zero, and that any people you may meet from time to time are merely products of a deranged imagination.

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  21. #21
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Agree with many of the recommendations above. My absolute favorite is Apres L'Ondee. I would KILL to smell the parfum. Plus the L'Eau d'Hiver is such a minimal/crisp take on the same ALO theme. Both are so beautiful to me.

    Now I want to smell some of the other recommendations above. The Etro sounds great shadesofbleu.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  22. #22

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    There is a 'Heliotrope & Santal' by Accord Parfait if you can find it, it smells really delicious and woody at the same time as I believe the ingredients are just Heliotrope and Sandalwood in an EDP. Not certain if they have been discontinued but I just love the combination of the two ingredients together - it also reminds me of part of the heart notes in Jaipur Pour Homme by Boucheron - which is one of my all time favourite heliotrope infused fragrance. By the way, there are 2 different colours for the heliotrope plant - one with a deep purple and the other white (sometimes you may get a slight blush of mauve in some flowers). To me, there is a slight variance in the scent - I find the one with the deep purple the stronger scent. I have one of each growing in pots and they are really hardy and do not need much pruning. I have never really pruned either one back except to cut off the dead branches. They tend to have a sprawling habit and they do make very ornamental bushes or pot plants and they flower every so often. Do plant them and enjoy the perfume!

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I'm definitely going to plant some heliotrope this spring. It's going on my "to plant" list right now.
    I am glad to see the enthusiasm for experiencing the real flower as a point of comparison to the perfume version. I grow mine as annuals in pots (due to the cold winters). They never get very big but they sure put out a cloud of scent! I find them to be a bit fussy, requiring neither a lot nor too little water. Still, they are an essential in my garden.
    As much as possible (for gardeners) I'd urge growing fragrant flowers (and also herbs). Learn what things smell like in nature.
    odysseusm

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  24. #24

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I was going to suggest Herve Leger.

    Then there is Lalique Le Parfum, which hasn't come up yet. There is a bizarre heliotrope-cumin accord in it which I personally find quite repellent, but the dedicated heliotrope sleuth may wish to try it regardless in the spirit of scientific inquiry.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    The best heliotrope heavy fragrance I have tried is Loukhoum by KM.
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  26. #26
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I forgot to mention that supposedly (since I personally have never smelled it) vintage Farnesiana by Caron is a wonderful heliotrope scent.

    Anyone smell it and care to comment?
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  27. #27

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    HUGe yay to that one!
    I'll pipe in here, and add Dans Tes Bras. I am not confident to identify heliotrope, but when comparing these two scents, there was "that something special" that both had in common, and they both have heliotrope listed in their compositions. I thought that my be the mystery ingredient that caught my notice so enchantingly.
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I get heliotrope in Belle en Rykiel and Daim Blond. I don't have much love for BeR and I think heliotrope is part of the reason why, but I do love the spicy/leathery DB and find it fits in nicely here to create what for me is the perfect fall/holiday scent.
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  29. #29

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    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I'm a big Heliotrope fan, and I've found my personal 'holy grail' of heliotrope fragrances, namely Santa Maria Novella Eliotropio. It's wonderful... lightly sweet with a touch of that almondy flavor. It's a touch musky and very subtle. There isn't much sillage, but what can you expect? It's also great for layering. I believe it's discontinued, or at least it is in the US, but I can help with samples.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Heliotrope

    I recommend you try Alessandro by Mazzolari, which is a slightly more floral and refined and less gourmand take on heliotrope than Etro's Heliotrope. And I second & third Après l'Ondée and the scent inspired by it, L'Eau d'Hiver

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I forgot to mention that supposedly (since I personally have never smelled it) vintage Farnesiana by Caron is a wonderful heliotrope scent.

    Anyone smell it and care to comment?
    I recently smelled the vintage extrait, mike, and found it centered on a mimosa note rather than on a heliotrope one.
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