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  1. #61

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    Blossom Green, on first spray, reminds me of a more traditional fresh, clean,spring scent, in the men's cologne genre: a little citrus a little floral. It becomes more floral, much softer in short time. In addition to fabulous neroli. i'm smelling another flower. At first I thought it was a very small dose of lavender, but later, no...I'm not sure what it is.... The texture has developed, too, from sort of sparkly, even fizzy, to more powdery to creamy. Lovely. I can't stop smelling my arm. WAIT--is that rose? My husband loves it on me and suggests I wear it often.
    You are right, Nostalgie, there is a hint of Lavender into Morning blossom, there is no Rose in it,but there is Rosewood.
    Last edited by Profumo; 22nd February 2009 at 06:51 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  2. #62

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    I'm just trying Le Fablier today. AIona, my initial impression is like yours: I find the top note to be lots of cinnamon, and a slightly sweet cinnamon at that: it reminds me of the candies called "Red Hots," Over time the cinnamon calms down and I can smell rose, and the entire blend softens. I am not good at detecting notes, but there is something I would describe as creamy and warm in the base. I would like to smell more of that base and less of the lingering cinnamon.
    There is indeed Cinnamon as a key ingredient of the accord. This is because the perfume has been designed to evocate the security of home and family. The rose is for the woman who is the femminile presence of the house and the woods for the furnitures of Le Fablier.
    The idea was to represent the woman of Le Fablier, as a romantic jewel (the rose) set in a her natural homely ambient, with the cinnamon evocating her motherly sweetness (cooking sweets), and the woods for the natural wood furnitures of Le Fablier.
    The mistery creamy ingredient could be the vanilla, who is smelled only in the drydown, being used here as a subliminal bottom note to reinforse the motherly feeling.
    Last edited by Profumo; 22nd February 2009 at 06:02 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  3. #63

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Aiona View Post
    and the civet-lavender combo you recommended ...???
    Do you mean the civet Lavender blend that I recommended to spray into the bed (without telling the husband), to arouse his interest? always as a scientific experiment of course.
    This blend is not supposed to work on your hand but into your bed.

    If you want to arouse interest of men with a body perfume, civet is to be blended with Tuberose. But this is an other story, it is a pefume in the next batch of samples that Asha should recieve tomorrow, Let us see if you will recognize it.
    I would like to invite all those who have not done it yet to write their impressions on these first samples, because in a few days we shall go a step further and pass to the new perfumes.
    Last edited by Profumo; 22nd February 2009 at 06:50 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  4. #64

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Do you mean the civet Lavender blend that I recommended to spray into the bed (without telling the husband), to arise his interest? always as a scientific experiment of course.
    This blend is not supposed to work on your hand but into your bed.
    Ah well! It does smell interesting on skin. Different from the single notes alone. We have a king-sized bed (so that it is large enough to hold 3 cats and a dog as well as the humans), and so a focal spraying of civet-lavender might not work well for me. 'May have to reserve this experiment for a time when the boudoir is empty of four-footed mammals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    If you want to arise interest of men with a body perfume, civet is to be blended with Tuberose. But this is an other story, it is a pefume in the next batch of samples that Asha should recieve tomorrow, Let us see if you will recognize it.
    Thank you, Profumo. I really can't express how grateful I am to be able to sample these. The single notes are very enlightening, and even though the others are enjoying Holy Water, I've found another sweet scent in Rose des Bois. I thought I liked incense scents, but I'm finding I only like certain kinds. I'm not sure what the difference between them is. I enjoy the opening of Holy Water, but once the citrus that resembles Morning Blossom dies away, I really mostly only smell incense. As I mentioned, my dog (the German shorthair) is enchanted by it. I should try it again.

    Today is a slow(er) day at work, and I am wearing African Queen Pink Panther again. I'm saddened that I cannot get the Karo Karounde in it! Parsley. And yes, I smell the mandarin now, after being clued in to it. Parsley again. And . . . that strange mushroomy smell. So strange!
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  5. #65

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Tried Karo Karounde yesterday... a very interesting dirty floral. It almost smells like rotting orange blossoms smeared with honey mustard. Very long lasting on me; twenty-four hours with good sillage.

    I've noticed some tropical flowers - even some tropical fruits - tend to have this over-ripe quality about them. Champaca comes to mind, to a lesser extent. Heavy, rich, honeyed, but also slightly putrid - a muddied but colorful oil painting rather than the watercolor of a note like violet.

    I'll be interested to try the fragrance that uses this. On its own, it's something I'd wear only very occasionally.

    The Bergamot was simple, lovely and short-lived, as citrus often is. Very Earl Grey tea-like compared to some of the more orangey bergamots I've known.

    Tomorrow I'll give some of the fragrances a try.

  6. #66

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I am smelling on coffee filters today...the fragrance compositions from profumo's first batch. I have been reading about others' responses, but also tried to keep those out of my mind as I smelled these.

    Holy Water--Strong frankincense right away. The frankincense is resinous and slightly sweet with an almost-but-not-quite lemon quality to it. It definitely smells watery in an abstract way, and after the frankincense settles, I smell orange and a subtle woody base. The orange fades leaving faint wood, but it also has that edge that faded citrus oils get. Thankfully, it is well masked by the woody note.

    Rose de Bois--A very archetypal rose blossom scent at the very beginning, and this faded almost immediately. The fragrance moved into a more green-rose scent, like the smell of blossom and foliage at the same time. Soon after, spices and wood come forward, and the spice is predominantly cinnamon. The spice fades but is still present in the drydown, along with a faint creamy wood.

    Morning Blossom--Gorgeous bergamot to start, then joined by subtle blended citruses. There is a lemony quality that reminds me of rosewood essential oil, but eventually it fades, as does the bergamot. As the citrus notes fade, neroli emerges, and it is absolutely stunning--intoxicating, penetrating, sweet and slightly indolic. The neroli lasts a very long time and is of beautiful quality.

    African Queen Pink Panther--To my nose, it smells like gasoline at first. When the fragrance dries, the gasoline quality becomes more subdued, but is still recognizable as such. There is an indolic floral note and some citrus, perhaps a blend of grapefruit and orange. Later, the gasoline note wears off, but I still smell citrus, so it may be part of that earlier floral note I smelled. It is almost like a combination of grapefruit and nectarine as it has the same bite as grapefruit but with a ripe, peachy fruityness to it.
    Last edited by Asha; 23rd February 2009 at 05:10 AM.

  7. #67

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    More sampling--this time of the individual notes.

    Bergamot EO--much more fruity and green than other bergamot oils I have smelled. It is bitter, sharp and juicy, like a cross between grapefruit, lime and rosewood. It does not smell as much like Earl Gray tea as I expected, so the aromatic herbal quality I normally associate with bergamot is not as prominent here. As it dries down, it gets sharper and a tiny bit like lemony peppercorns (I think it is white pepper which has the lemon note). It also takes on a woody tone as some citruses seem to do in their drydown.

    Civet--swings between smelling fecal and smelling like mothballs. I do not get any urine smell here as I do with the synthetic civet. I think natural civet is much more pleasing, however, I am really impressed that synthetic civet comes as close as it does to the natural scent. I recognize this scent very well from Jicky, and of the concentrations I've tried, the civet in Jicky extrait comes closest to smelling like this natural civet. In the drydown, it has a sweetness that is unexpected, but helps me see how this can blend so well in oriental bases that include sweet balsamic notes.

    Karo Karounde--very, very overripe fruit at first, then it transitions into the smell of damp and slightly mildewed paper or cloth. It stays very sweet, even in the drydown and becomes more fruity in time. The fruit is mostly like stone fruits--peach, nectarine or apricot. I'd say it is very indolic, although it does not smell particularly floral to me, so I hesitate to compare it to other indolic florals such as jasmine.

  8. #68

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    You are right, Nostalgie, there is a hint of Lavender into Morning blossom, there is no Rose in it,but there is Rosewood.
    Thank you, Profumo. So I wasn't imagining the lavender.
    I don't think I've ever smelled rosewood. I'm going to track it down.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
    My book reviews: http://www.nstperfume.com/author/Cheryl/

  9. #69

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    There is indeed Cinnamon as a key ingredient of the accord. This is because the perfume has been designed to evocate the security of home and family. The rose is for the woman who is the femminile presence of the house and the woods for the furnitures of Le Fablier.
    The idea was to represent the woman of Le Fablier, as a romantic jewel (the rose) set in a her natural homely ambient, with the cinnamon evocating her motherly sweetness (cooking sweets), and the woods for the natural wood furnitures of Le Fablier.
    The mistery creamy ingredient could be the vanilla, who is smelled only in the drydown, being used here as a subliminal bottom note to reinforse the motherly feeling.
    Profumo, you have succeeded in creating this mood and this portrait.
    And yes, it must be the vanilla. I like that the vanilla "is not in your face."
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
    My book reviews: http://www.nstperfume.com/author/Cheryl/

  10. #70

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    (This is cross posted from the SotD thread, so there is a little bit of repetition.)

    SotD is Profumo's Rose de Bois, which is a bespoke fragrance for Le Fablier.

    It has an immediate burst of rose blossom which quickly morphs into a sort of green rose, ie, foliage, stems and blossom all together. It is fresh and bracing, a little bit spicy due to the cinnamon which emerges soon after. The cinnamon is actually quite dry and sticks in my throat a bit, but as this fragrance develops quickly, it does not stay there very long. Soon after, the cinnamon mellows into a creamy wood base which actually reminds me very much of Roger and Gallet's Blue Carnation. I love the drydown in Rose de Bois--it is soft, sweet, spicy and woody with a hint of powder. At the same time, it is crisp and dewy, as I imagine a living carnation would smell.
    Last edited by Asha; 23rd February 2009 at 12:05 AM.

  11. #71

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I am wearing Rose de Bois today. The first accord I get is the cinammon. I don't get the rose until much later. This is very beautiful.

    Profumo, without asking you to reveal any special techniques you use, how do you make your fragrances so long lasting? I was expecting them to fade in a couple of hours, or maximum four hours. With the exception of Morning Blossom, the other perfumes are very long lasting. I am thinking that I have only dabbed Morning Blossom. Perhaps it would last more if I spray it on.
    Evenstar

  12. #72

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    I am wearing Rose de Bois today. The first accord I get is the cinammon. I don't get the rose until much later. This is very beautiful.

    Profumo, without asking you to reveal any special techniques you use, how do you make your fragrances so long lasting? I was expecting them to fade in a couple of hours, or maximum four hours. With the exception of Morning Blossom, the other perfumes are very long lasting. I am thinking that I have only dabbed Morning Blossom. Perhaps it would last more if I spray it on.
    I shall quote one who knows better than me, in order to make you understand the secret of longevity, I am quoting Guy Robert in his legendary lecture at the British Society of Perfumers.
    “Lasting power is not easy to reach, nobody knows how and why this is happening.
    I hate and find stupid that theory of "fixateurs".
    We all know these many little songs we are hearing anywhere and forgetting almost immediately, but, from time to time, one of these songs sticks to our ear and we go on whistling it the whole day ... I can assure you the author of these successful songs do not use any "fixatives ingredients" to get that result ... “ http://www.bsp.org.uk/newsarc/biogenesis.html

    There is a mystery in the alchemy of blending. Sometimes one reaches to a scent that has a strong identity, you may try to perfect it but whatever you add or whatever change of proportions you try. The perfume does not change.
    An other mysterious aspect of blending is that sometimes a single essence in a very minor proportions gives cohesion and length to a whole blend.
    I am never taking into account the longevity parameter when I compose a fragrance, but I am taking it into account certainly when I chose my raw materials.
    Natural essences can be of many qualities, the best one are the most expensive ones. Incidentally they are also the most difficult to find (very few have them) and the most limited in quantity over the planet.
    Longevity of the essences comes very much into account for their quality, specially for the steam extraction ones. For instance 80% of the essence may be extracted in 2 hours, but for the remaining 20%, composed of the heavier molecules (the ones having longevity), an other six hours may be necessary. In this case it makes little sense distilling the last 20%, because nobody will pay 4 times this price of the “partial” essence. Except very few people, of which I am.
    With these facts I want to express a very simple concept which is at the base of my teaching perfumery, your perfume will be good only in the measure of the quality of your ingredients.
    Every perfumer has a style of his which depends from his character, from the story of his olfactory experiences and also from his public.
    I never use top notes because top notes have to be in a perfume, I am rather like the Japanese people who tend to make perfumes of only basenotes which are very long lasting, and this is an other reason why my compositions tend to last; long lasting mayerials of a long lasting quality.
    On the other hand I have to accommodate my public, as a bespoke perfume composer, and they often love fresh head notes.
    A perfume is an artistic product only in the sense that it comes into being through your hands as if by a will of his own and by the power of destiny, of which you see yourself being only the instrument. I say "only", because in other forms of art, there is a lot of work, let us say 99% of work, and inspiration accounts for the remaining 1%.
    In perfumery it is exactly the opposite, it is very easy to make a perfume, there is very little work, one must only be carried by inspiration, going straight to the point, stopping and starting again when it is time. Giving time to the Time is essential in blending. Not always a perfume comes straight away. Not all perfumes are simple as children, some are very ancient persons with a lot of experience and wisdom in themselves.
    I rarely spend more than a few hours on a perfume, on each of my calligraphies I spend hundreds of hours.
    Dear Arwen, I hope that this gives you some answer to your demand.
    Last edited by Profumo; 24th February 2009 at 05:19 AM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  13. #73

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    So I woke up this morning like a child on Christmas morning, desperately hoping that the samples would be in my mailbox… and (drumroll please) they were there ! Like a starving wolf on the hunt for new experiences, I immediately ran up my steps, cut open the package and proceeded to dab and spray some of each on separate blotters. My room soon exploded into a nuclear blast of the most heavenly and touching fragrances…

    Now, before I write my initial impressions, I would just like to first of all, thank Profumo once again for such a kind and generous gesture. This experience has been more than I ever expected – these natural fragrances are so full-flavoured and touching that they really affect me in a strong emotional manner. Also, thank you Aiona for getting this thing started – I truly appreciate the coordination you and Profumo have put into this.

    Although I’ve only tried African Pink Panther on my skin so far, here are my initial impressions. These impressions cover the top notes, mid notes and the dry-downs of most of the fragrances.



    Sample session 1:

    nota bene: The accords I write for each fragrance are probably not accurate, but represent what I think that I’m smelling.


    Le Fablier/Rose des Bois:

    Cinnamon, Coriander, Rose, Wood (not sure which kind), Vanilla. I got very thrown off by this one. Not only is the rose hard to smell, but the accords in this (besides the cinnamon) seem to rotate one by one in the spotlight. The rose in the title threw me off, since I was expecting it but only getting a touch of it. What I do get the most is something very much like cinnamon, and perhaps coriander, just like Aiona said in her description. The impression overall is sweet (but not candy-like) and gourmand-y, and quite frankly, it’s making me salivate. It has a very rounded spice quality, without smelling peppery or sharp. Very strong, very good longevity. There is a texture to this that none of the other samples had – a creamy, comforting feeling that is hard to put into words. Makes me think of a nice curry, very mild on the spice, with a touch of something like coconut milk. Extremely comforting fragrance, like a hug from your wife or husband.

    African Pink Panther:

    Mint, grapefruit?/citrus, cat pee?, karo karounde. I’m surprised to be smelling this pee accord, since after trying the real Civet, I’ve noticed that it doesn’t smell like pee at all (even though I find synthetic Civet to smell a lot like cat pee). Surprisingly though, I like this a lot! There’s a very nice contrast here – it’s fresh and crisp but slightly dirty at the same time. The only downside is that this doesn’t last long on me or a blotter.

    While on a blotter, this smelled mostly of mint and cat pee. Now that I’m trying it on my skin, I’m still getting the same notes, but now I also smell a small amount of the Karo Karounde flower. I still like it very much, but I feel that it’s an acquired taste that not everyone will enjoy. This has a very “ethnic” vibe to it.

    Civet Tincture:

    Definitely fecal, (and surprise surprise) smells like poop! But underneath the fecal overtones, there is something very intriguing, and somehow comforting. I am very surprised this doesn’t smell like cat pee, since that’s what I’ve smelled in most fragrances with synthetic Civet.

    I let my dog (a miniature Schnauzer) take a whiff of this. She scrunched up her nose, and then turned away from it in rejection, as though she was saying “You know I don’t like cats.” I should have filmed it.

    Karo Karounde:

    First thing I got was something vetiver-like (smells very similar to Vetiver from Java). There is also a floral undertone I’ve never smelled before. This is very sensual stuff, I can see how this is used in mating rituals. Also, there is something in there that smells human-like - the best way I can describe it is like the smell of the top of one’s head, hair and scalp. Also worth noting that this is reminiscent of bamboo, leather and slightly stinky feet. Interesting!

    Blossom Green/morning blossom:

    Lots of what smells to me like (lemon/petit grain?) and neroli. As it dries down, I’m getting some lavender. I’m really enjoying this one too. It’s reminiscent of Holy Water, but softer and more introverted.


    Bergamot:

    Kind of like a cross between a grapefruit, lemon and orange. Very refreshing and incredibly uplifting. This is so nice I would love to wear it on on days when I’m feeling down. I almost immediately got kind of peppy and happy after smelling this.

    Holy Water:

    I’ve fallen deeply in love with this one. So crisp, refreshing, uplifting, and yet grounding. I feel as though my thoughts become crystal clear at every whiff of this. I get notes of citrus (I’m guessing bergamot?), Neroli and a touch of frankincense/sandalwood which grounds everything. I wish I had a bigger bottle of this!



    *********************



    Overall, I’m very impressed. Although I wouldn’t wear all of these, there are a few I am deeply in love with. Either way, I very much appreciate all of them for what they are.

    As a male in his early 20s, here are my favorites so far (that I would like to wear):


    • Holy Water
    • Morning Blossom
    • Bergamot


    I think that African Pink Panther would be great on a woman who is bohemian or somewhat eccentric. I would love to smell Rose des Bois on a woman as well, especially a woman who is confident and comforting. The Civet on the other hand, I wouldn’t want to smell on anyone but then again I feel that in the right amounts, Civet could make some truly intriguing fragrances in combination with other notes. Finally, the Karo Karounde is to me, an acquired taste, and although I’m not fond of it in isolation, it compliments the African Pink Panther quite well.





    More reviews to come as I try each fragrance in isolation on my skin….
    Sales thread here

  14. #74

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    That package looks sooo amazing, and I'm sooo freakin jealous, haha.
    unico grande amore.

  15. #75

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    I am wearing Rose de Bois today. The first accord I get is the cinammon. I don't get the rose until much later. This is very beautiful.

    Profumo, without asking you to reveal any special techniques you use, how do you make your fragrances so long lasting? I was expecting them to fade in a couple of hours, or maximum four hours. With the exception of Morning Blossom, the other perfumes are very long lasting. I am thinking that I have only dabbed Morning Blossom. Perhaps it would last more if I spray it on.
    I do not mean to overstep profumo's answer to this one, but I would like to add, there are some natural materials that have incredible tenacity. I have some vetiver essential oil, and I got some of the pure essence on my hands. I scrubbed several times with soap and water, and it would not come off. The scent lasted into the next day.

  16. #76

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    I scrubbed several times with soap and water, and it would not come off. The scent lasted into the next day.
    Oh, how awful! I'd be happy to take that vetiver off your hands, Asha! Its punishment for being so stubborn shall be 50 dabs to the neck and torso!
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  17. #77

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    African Pink Panther:

    Mint, grapefruit?/citrus, cat pee?, karo karounde. I’m surprised to be smelling this pee accord, since after trying the real Civet, I’ve noticed that it doesn’t smell like pee at all (even though I find synthetic Civet to smell a lot like cat pee). Surprisingly though, I like this a lot! There’s a very nice contrast here – it’s fresh and crisp but slightly dirty at the same time. The only downside is that this doesn’t last long on me or a blotter.

    While on a blotter, this smelled mostly of mint and cat pee. Now that I’m trying it on my skin, I’m still getting the same notes, but now I also smell a small amount of the Karo Karounde flower. I still like it very much, but I feel that it’s an acquired taste that not everyone will enjoy. This has a very “ethnic” vibe to it.

    I think that African Pink Panther would be great on a woman who is bohemian or somewhat eccentric.
    Finally, the Karo Karounde is to me, an acquired taste, and although I’m not fond of it in isolation, it compliments the African Pink Panther quite well.
    You are right. This is what is so exiting about the Buchu essence. You should know that some botanical essences mimic animal pheromones. This is the case with Sandalwood which has a molecule similar to androstene, but also with Vanilla, Cinnamon, Cumin ecc...
    There are 2 of them that have definitely the "cat pee" note, it is Buchu and blackcurrant absolute. What makes the cat or mouse pee so characteristic in smell is the pheromones they carry. Most animals, humans included, expel pheromones in the urine. Buchu can also remind of human sweat to someone, and mostly human pheromones are in human sweat, processed into their typical smell trough the bacterial fauna of the armpits. Anybody interested in this aspect of our biology (and psychology) can read my report on human pheromones.
    However, not everyone smells what you and me smell in Buchu, l’Aventurier, specially women. Some of them find it irresistible, fruity, sexy, emotional…
    The theme of African Queen is Buchu, and I have set it into an ambient of exclusively African smells (including Civet) in order to obtain an intensely sensual pheromonal feminine perfume exuding human basic smells and animalic nature.
    The image I had in me was that of an idealistic young African queen of the cinema, but the smells I blended came from my records of 3 years travelling in Africa.
    You will now receive in the second batch the original fragrance African Queen, which I called “Black Panther”, there in no citrus in it to soften it (in Pink Panther it is Mandarin), and you will smell better the African smells and spices that compose it. I am very interested to see the reaction of Basenoters to this perfume.
    Last edited by Profumo; 24th February 2009 at 04:56 AM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  18. #78

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Very interesting Profumo, thanks for the info. Now that you mention it, the African Queen Pink Panther did have somewhat of a "sweat" smell too. My reference to cat pee is the only way I could really explain it; it really must be pheromonal like you say. I forgot to mention that I have never smelled anything quite like it, it really is quite a compelling creation. I can definitely imagine it on an African Queen, or a woman with an air of "je ne sais quoi."

    I'm in the process of reading your report on human pheromones (http://profumo.it/ospiti/pheromone_p...pheromones.asp), it really is quite interesting. I am currently studying psychology in university and have read a few papers in line with what you describe. Isn't it interesting how many musks and pheromonal fragrances are both sexually and spiritually arousing?

    In your article, you mention that men are often anosmic to musks, while women are more anosmic to ambergris. Would this mean that the pheromone that suits you best is the one you can't smell (since, afterall, anosmia could mean it simply already resembles your own signature set of pheromones)?
    Sales thread here

  19. #79

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I just applied some more AQPP on just now... It smells more like female sweat than anything, but in a good way. I'm going to ask a close girl friend to try to this and see what the result is as soon as I get a chance.
    Sales thread here

  20. #80

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    In your article, you mention that men are often anosmic to musks, while women are more anosmic to ambergris. Would this mean that the pheromone that suits you best is the one you can't smell (since, afterall, anosmia could mean it simply already resembles your own signature set of pheromones)?
    Not exactly so, because your signature pheromone is a compound which contains much more than sexual pheromones (see the other parts of the report on “identification pheromones”).
    Our perception of smell in great part conditioned by our brain, so that we could say that the humans smell more with their brain than with their nose, or rather that they do not smell a lot of things that are just filtered by their brain.
    Our nose could smell much more with a specific training of the brain.
    The specific anosmies and hyperosmies are only a question of threshold perception, the brain just sets it up or down just like we can set the audio equalizers.
    The reasons that are behind this phenomenon are both biological and psychological. It is said that specific anosmy to musks is present to some degree in a third of the male population. It can be theorized that this anosmy has the function to avoid being physiologically influenced by other males (the function of pheromnes is to influence physiological processes in other individuals).
    For instance the “dominant male” olfactory badge, in some deer species, can inhibit the sexuality of the other males.
    Although one of the primary functions of smell has to do with the reproductive process (from the choice of mate to the fecundation), the connexion between the "olfactory" (sense of smell) and sexual orientation has so far not been explored, but may bring to light some unexpected revelations. For instance I could throw the provocatory hypothesis that the overuse of macrolitic musks by the perfume industry has caused an epochal confusion in the human population about their sexual identity. Hypothesis that will never be researched by the industry.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
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  21. #81

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    L'Aventurier, Pink Panther smelled like gasoline to me...but karo karounde smelled like fruit, albeit overripe, nearly rotting fruit! I actually love overripe fruit notes, but the gasoline I could do without. I suspect I have a strange perception of one of the other notes in the blend, similar to how I smell ammonia in many modern men's fougeres.

  22. #82

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    L'Aventurier, Pink Panther smelled like gasoline to me....
    Asha, this made me smile, it reminded me of an Arab perfumer from Saudia Arabia who came to my office. I made him smell Bergamot and he said "it smells like petrol".
    You should try again to smell it again and see if you recognize the cat pee note. I think that we shall seem very queer to other basenoters wo read this thread.
    Yes, ammonia is a typical pheromonal smell. It is very possible that your perception of such smells (and also of Pink Panther) changes with your hormonal state during the month.
    Last edited by Profumo; 24th February 2009 at 10:50 AM.
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  23. #83

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Profumo, thank you very much for the explanation on longevity. I am still amazed that Holy Water with only four notes lasted as long as it did.

    Asha, thanks for adding to Profumo's exposition about essence.

    I can't wait for the next series of samples. These have been so interesting and so unique and beautiful.
    Evenstar

  24. #84
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    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Playing catch-up again, backtracking and tying in to earlier events ...

    Correction: Essence of Jerusalem I mentioned earlier is not a Profumo product.

    Bambini ~ A tart, bitter, light-hearted citrus scent. Having recently become enamored with FM's Bigarade Concentree, which has a fractional floral component to balance the sour, I can't say Bambini is my favorite of this genre, but it is very good and surprisingly durable.

    Tea of the Isles ~ I'm flinching because there is spice, so I feel heat and aggression. I'm a spice wimp; it has to be cut with lots of sweetness for me to be able to handle it. Sorry, just not my category.

    Yesterday I wore Tasnim (which is spelled Tasneem on the website) and enjoyed it right through the evening when it spoke softly of sweet amber (tonka and vanilla, according to the notes). When I first applied it, I was reminded of one of the Neil Morris frags (sorry, can't remember which one). Tasnim struck me as a semi-sweet woody, and it felt languid and tawny. According to the Profumo website notes, a second distillation of ylang-ylang produces an almond quality. A very comfortable and comforting fragrance, if not a little ambiguous and forgettable.

    To reiterate my attitudes: I thought nothing would top Hindu Kush, until I met Scents of the Soul Oak Moss. And either I'll get a bottle of Oak Moss all for myself or Whisper and I can split one. My husband continues to love Hindu Kush, calling it his morning scent. I was corresponding with Twolf about HK (sent her a sample) and she found it "demure."

    I have still to comment about three samples on hand: Angelica Water, African Night and Frutti Paradisi. I'm quite aware of FP's black currant/cat urine note (as Salaam himself describes it) from having sniffed the vial--in fact I can say precisely it smells like heavy cat pee in a cow barn. It will be an adventure to put that on my skin.

    And I understand from Salaam, that a mystery fragrance is on its way to me, and I'll mail that out to my team asap. I'm curious about the Morning Blossom (Blossom Green) you all have been describing, and if some hasn't found its way to me in Salaam's package, I'll take up Aiona on her offer to send some.

    I think I'm back up to speed now and am resolved to attend this thread more consistently. Repeating "thank you" to Salaam for gifting us with opportunities and education.
    Last edited by Quarry; 24th February 2009 at 07:09 PM.
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  25. #85
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    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    This civet info is new to me. I hope it's not too much off topic, but to clarify; you are more sensitive to the smell if you are involved with a male & you are older, menopause age?

    I wonder because I just got Jicky in parfum & was overwhelmed by the civet. I had previously only had the EDT & thought it had too much lavendar. I really wanted the EDP. Actually, I found some but it's not here yet.

    So, I tried it along with my perfumista friend who is the same age (50). We are both married & we both had the same reaction, this is smooth, high quality stuff. But the civit was so loud & animalic, It seemed appropriate only to wear to an orgy.

    Also, about the cypress. I am really drawn to the cypress in Eau D'Hadrien. At first I was really put off by it. I was self conscious when wearing it & thought it was too masculine. Now I like it so much I don't care if I do get the fish-eye from some people. Especially women, it seems, think this is a weird frag on a female.
    Last edited by kumquat; 24th March 2009 at 09:26 PM.

  26. #86

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Dear Arwen, so far you got the best nose. Most acurate, the Karo Karoundè is indeed in Pink Panther, the minty note is Buchu Betulina (see http://www.profumo.it/blog/?p=12 ), and the essence pleasing to children that I used to water down The original African Queen (Black Panther) is indeed Mandarine.
    The accord for this fragrance is Buchu, ylang Ylang and Karo Karoundé.
    When you got used to it, you may love it.
    Black Panther is in the next batch of samples.
    I am still very curious about African Queen Pink Panther. As I noted in my post a few days ago, I thought that I smelled Karo Karounde, which makes me think of slightly rotting flowers and leather. I definitely got that in AQPP. But I don't get a minty note. I thought that it was hesperidic/citric. I'm not sure that I'm getting the Ylang Ylang either. I read the link above for Buchu, which doesn't mention mint, but does discuss clary sage, tobacco and cat pee! Maybe the Karo Karounde is just overwhelming my nose.
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  27. #87

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Gasoline? I'm so jealous. I love the smell of gasoline, and would love to smell it in a fragrance. And fruit in karo karounde? Man! I got stinky feet hahaha. Lucky you Asha. I think Profumo has hit onto some very controversial notes here.. perhaps a perfect situation of love/hate, fresh/dirty?

    I love how smells are so subjective/biological. Can't wait to read your next impressions Asha.

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    L'Aventurier, Pink Panther smelled like gasoline to me...but karo karounde smelled like fruit, albeit overripe, nearly rotting fruit! I actually love overripe fruit notes, but the gasoline I could do without. I suspect I have a strange perception of one of the other notes in the blend, similar to how I smell ammonia in many modern men's fougeres.
    ps. I'm perfectly happy with my cat pee notes, as weird as that sounds
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 25th February 2009 at 06:53 AM.
    Sales thread here

  28. #88

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    For instance I could throw the provocatory hypothesis that the overuse of macrolitic musks by the perfume industry has caused an epochal confusion in the human population about their sexual identity. Hypothesis that will never be researched by the industry.
    I agree! Great theory Profumo. I think the long half life and accumulation of these musks is definitely altering something in some of us. Only time will tell.

    What if perhaps, this musk asnomia isn't really genetic or evolutionary, but instead mostly environmental, due to a simple "bleaching" or "over-saturation" of our noses to these musks everyday.

    So much research to do, so little time.
    Sales thread here

  29. #89

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Oh by the way, I wore Holy Water today, here is my full impression, on skin, after a day.

    For some strange reason, I keep smelling slightly tart lemon/bergamot in this. I can almost taste the citrus in my mouth... I must be imagining though, since Profumo only listed 4 ingredients, with Neroli being the only one coming close to "citrus," if by a long shot. I’m also noticing the frankincense more, giving the neroli here a prickly attitude. The sandalwood only becomes noticeable for me into the drydown. Sadly, still not getting much rose. Reminiscent of Neroli Sauvage by Creed, however has more of an orange-y and "prickly" texture.

    A little bit to sharp for me, but so refreshing and happy that it makes up for my own picky taste.


    I sampled a little bit of Morning Blossom again tonight, and now I think I like it even more than I originally liked Holy Water.
    Sales thread here

  30. #90

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    L'Aventurier, some varieties of frankincense have a lemony smell with soft touches of evergreen. Most of the very commonly available ones I have tried have this, but BN member DULLAH has written of several other types which have different qualities.

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=220397

    Also something which may be of interest about frankincense here:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=221727

  31. #91
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    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Angelica is a favorite note (Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Angelique Noire), and I am partial to green fragrances, so it's no surprise I'm enjoying Profumo's Angelica Water. I'm into the heart phase of the "water" as I write this, and it bears a tart, almost citrus-like vibe without being sharp. Mmmm, fresh, green, alive. This stuff would make a good splash to keep in the fridge for hot summer days. There is something additional going on, but I'm hard pressed to define it. Maybe it's the union with skin that keeps the fresh aspect from flying off into space? No, there is something in the juice that keeps it anchored to the earth. Maybe it's the xylem (the soda-straw structure in stems) imparting its woody qualities?
    Last edited by Quarry; 25th February 2009 at 08:43 PM.
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  32. #92

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Rose de Bois

    First of all, I should give a little disclaimer that I've never smelled high quality rosewood essential oil. All the ones I've tried have had a bitter, almost smoky note, but I've heard the better varieties don't. This smells nothing like the rosewoods I have smelled, so if this is based on rosewood, I wouldn't know.

    That being said... I sell cinnamon, vanilla, rose and an interesting green note I cannot identify. The cinnamon dominates this fragrance in the top and heart, much to my liking. Vanilla softens it a little, giving it an almost doughy quality, and there's a green note most apparent in the top that gives this a nice lift. The rose isn't apparent until the base, where it blooms beautifully and quite naturally.

    In general this is more a cinnamon than a rose fragrance to my nose, but it's quite nice all the same. The sillage is on the mild side, but longevity is quite decent for a natural fragrance - around eight hours on me. Even given that, what I particularly appreciate about this fragrance is its long-lasting cinnamon note. Most cinnamon notes burn off in an hour or two on me, but this one lasts most of the fragrance.

  33. #93

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Galamb_Borong, rosewood oil ironically smells very little of roses or wood. It is very lemony and seems almost more like an aromatic grass smell (eg, citronella). I did not smell rosewood oil in Rose de Bois, but I did smell it in Morning Blossom. A common men's fragrance that has rosewood is Habit Rouge.

    To my nose, rosewood sometimes smells like furniture polish. The woody aspect is soft and sap-like rather than like wood pulp or sawdust, so the lemon seems very deep, mellow and round. If I were to compare lemons and rosewood to musical instruments, lemon would be a saxophone and rosewood would be a cello.

    Rosewood is quite beautiful, and unfortunately is an abused species (the wood is much coveted also).
    Last edited by Asha; 26th February 2009 at 05:25 AM.

  34. #94

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    It looks like the discussions about this batch of 8 samples is drawing to a conclusion, everyone has written some impression, and the new batch has already arrived to Asha.
    Aiona has won a full size bottle of Rose des Bois that I shall send with the third batch.

    From your comments I would say that Morning Blossom has encountered the most enthusiasm along with holy Water. These are 2 aquatic neroli compositions, and in fact there is a little Holy Water into Morning Blossom. Your preference for Neroli, which is a scent against anxiety, fear and panic attacs is meaningful in these times of crisis.
    Next in interest has been Rose des bois, which pleased a lot some of you and less to others, both effects mainly due to the Cinnamon note.
    The pheromone smells have had a very contrasted impact as they always have, specially on the feminine population. We shall dig more into that in future, with Ambergris, Hyraceum ecc…

    I would like to ask advice to the group about the idea that I have, that it would be better to start a new thread for every batch of samples.
    I am afraid that a very long thread would be an overload of information without a real order, difficult to search and unpleasurable to read. A little bit like a book without chapters..
    There should be 8 batches and about 60 samples, over four month at least. A unique thread would be of 16 to 20 pages. It would be very difficult to go through it.
    Any new comment about passed batches would overlap in time and become separate from the main body of this batch comments.
    I am afraid that the abundance of samples will create confusion, but of course I could limit the number for the sake of order and multiply the number of groups.
    Please advice.
    Last edited by Profumo; 26th February 2009 at 06:43 AM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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  35. #95

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    I would like to ask advice to the group about the idea that I have, that it would be better to start a new thread for every batch of samples.
    I am afraid that a very long thread would be an overload of information without a real order, difficult to search and unpleasurable to read. A little bit like a book without chapters..
    I initially discussed this with Asha, and thought it'd be nice to have it all in one thread. But I can see your point. (By the way, moltening has not yet received his samples. . . and he's the farthest from the U.S. So it may be a while yet before he posts, and yes, it would overlap with Asha's batch if we were to keep the same thread.)

    So yes, perhaps a new thread for Asha's sample set would be more appropriate so that moltening doesn't feel he has to play "catch-up."

    What do all of you all think?
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  36. #96

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    What about Quarry's discussion which is interspersed with ours?

    I wonder if the mods or Grant would be willing to make us a discussion area for single note study. We could put the Note Identification thread and all of profumo's threads in it, separate from the FFD.

    Edit: I have posted in the community area about having a separate forum for single note study. Grant is probably the one to do it, but he is not taking PM's.
    Last edited by Asha; 26th February 2009 at 01:55 PM.

  37. #97

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    What about Quarry's discussion which is interspersed with ours?
    Dear Asha,
    Quarry's group's samples are about to arrive to her, some of them are the same single notes and bespoke perfumes as yours and can easily fit in your thread(s).
    She receives also different ones from your scents of the soul and could in fact fit them in her first thread or in a new one.
    Asha, DID YOU LIKE MONA LISA?
    Last edited by Profumo; 26th February 2009 at 02:09 PM.
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  38. #98

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I agree that this thread could get very long and would prefer a fresh start for a new batch, however that works best. That may make it easier for those who still haven't had a chance to comment on batch 1. Otherwise their comments might get buried as a new discussion takes off.
    Have a great day, everyone!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 26th February 2009 at 02:22 PM.
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  39. #99
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    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    One other idea, and I don't know if this is the best or not, would be to create an independent thread to act as a directory, thereby organizing "chapters" by linking a scent name to its discussions. Do you folks think it would be useful to make a master list of all Profumo fragrances in a separate thread and then ... well, here, let me try out the idea. If you find this utilitarian, I'll start a "directory" thread and update it as new threads are created to discuss additional scents.

    African Night
    Link 1
    Link 2

    Arabia

    Bambini

    Holy Water (Acqua Santa)
    Link 1
    Link 2

    Oasis

    Seawood (Legno di Nave)

    Tabac

    etc.
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  40. #100

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Do you folks think it would be useful to make a master list of all Profumo fragrances in a separate thread and then ... well, here, let me try out the idea. If you find this utilitarian, I'll start a "directory" thread and update it as new threads are created to discuss additional scents.

    African Night
    Link 1
    Link 2
    I like that idea very much Quarry.

    I got Asha's package today. I'm already wearing something else, so it'll have to wait till later to sample! I'm *really* curious about African Queen Black Panther. And Bazaar smells *REALLY* good from the outside of the bottle.
    Last edited by Aiona; 26th February 2009 at 07:07 PM.
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  41. #101

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I got my new package from Asha!!!!!
    I can't wait to get home and try them.
    Evenstar

  42. #102

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I think we should start a new thread for the new package. That way, if we decide to consolidate to one thread, we can request that the two be merged. It is easier than trying to separate a large thread.

    I've requested a new discussion forum--let's see if that goes anywhere. It would help alot if we have an area where we can have these kinds of threads separate from the FFD or MFD boards.

  43. #103

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I think a discussion forum would make this much easier. It would allow us to start threads on individual scents more easily, wouldn't it?
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  44. #104

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I started the new thread for package #2:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=224232

    Hopefully it won't be too confusing, and maybe a mod will see my post in the community area about the new forum!

  45. #105

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    (cross posted from SotD)

    Morning Blossom

    Immediately after applying Morning Blossom (formerly known as Blossom Green), I smell bergamot and an indolic floral. MB has a very fresh but soft roundness to it, green, citric, slightly woody and herbal. I have smelled this particular bergamot as an individual note, and it is unlike other bergamot essences I have smelled. It seems far less like the Earl Gray tea scent I am used to and much more like a cross between grapefruit, bitter lime and lemon peppercorns. After drying, the bergamot settles, and I smell mellow lemon-like rosewood. As the bergamot continues to develop, a beautiful neroli note comes out. I have worn this fragrance a few times now, and I must say that the neroli in Morning Blossom is incredibly beautiful. It is somewhat heady and penetrating, a softly orange-scented white floral with a tiny bit of sweet nuttyness which is almost like coconut. This is the kind of neroli that can be consciousness-altering, especially when I take deep inhalations of it.

    The bergamot mostly burns off while the rosewood and neroli take over. The rosewood stays very indistinct, and seems to be a bridge for the bergamot and neroli. Interestingly, the neroli seems to be the base note in this composition, and as it develops, it becomes creamy while still retaining a good amount of sharpness and definition. In time, the neroli turns much softer and slightly spicy, but still retains a bit of its animalic urine-like edge. Longevity was surprising, about four hours, however, the fragrance does stay close to the skin overall. Today was warm and sunny, and this incredible fragrance bloomed on my skin while I was out in the sun. It is a gorgeous scent--highly recommended.
    Last edited by Asha; 1st March 2009 at 12:44 AM.

  46. #106

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Profumo Holy Water

    Notes: sandalwood, incense, rose

    On first spray, I smell lemony, woody frankincense with hints of tar and soft evergreen. I think there must also be some other citrus in this fragrance, as it smells quite a bit more fruity than I usually notice in pure frankincense essential oil. As the fragrance dries, I smell something like a tropical flower such as ylang ylang, but it is subtle and short lived. The floral component is a bit heady but not overpowering, and it gives some sweetness and softness to the frankincense. As I have stated before, there is a watery quality to this fragrance, but it is not aquatic or ozonic, nor does it smell of sea water. The notes state that rose is in this blend--this does start to come out more as the fragrance develops. It is not the liquor-like rose I am used to from my own rose absolute, but rather is an ethereal, cloud-like tea rose scent, very light and refined. I must admit, I have attempted this same accord with completely different results. Still, I love how rose, frankincense and sandalwood work together, even though at the moment I can't yet detect the sandalwood.

    The rose fades in the latter parts of the middle drydown, and now I am starting to smell a bit of that ammonia note that I often detect in modern, partly synthetic fougeres. I am starting to suspect that it is an evergreen note that I am hyperosmic to. Holy Water definitely has an aromatic herbal side to it, so if it contains pine, cypress, or maybe even some lavender, this could be the culprit. I doubt the problem is sandalwood since I have smelled it in isolation with no such reaction. The ammonia note is not overly strong, and it eventually fades. I can finally smell the sandalwood in the deep drydown--it is faintly woody, sweet, nutty and a little creamy. My (very old) essential oil is quite similar to this. It is easily overpowered by other notes, so it is great when it finally can show itself!

  47. #107

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Today I wore Rose de Bois to work--my first all day, weekday wearing of this scent. I spritzed around 7:30, and could smell it faintly after lunch. Beyond that, is has been very close to the skin. The aesthetic sensibility of this scent reminds me very much of Chanel Egoiste--rose, creamy wood and spice. I smelled the rose much more distinctly today. It is still in the first few instants when it is sprayed, but it comes back again in the green and spicy middle stage where it actually seems quite cool and mellow compared to the spicy accord. The drydown is creamy vanilla wood. I am still not quite beyond the potpourri or scented candle association in RdB, but I am impressed that it can carry this much spice and still skirt that boundary. In similar niche scents (Diptyque for example), I always get a cheap, waxy cinnamon smell that is absolutely nauseating. Cinnamon is not an expensive ingredient, why not make it good? Why not make it more like the cinnamon usage in Rose de Bois?
    Last edited by Asha; 4th March 2009 at 04:14 AM.

  48. #108

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    In similar niche scents (Diptyque for example), I always get a cheap, waxy cinnamon smell that is absolutely nauseating. Cinnamon is not an expensive ingredient, why not make it good? Why not make it more like the cinnamon usage in Rose de Bois?
    Asha, Cinnamon bark essential oil from Ceylan is quite expensive. Cinnamon from china and cinnamon leaves essential oils are cheaper, but obviously not as good.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  49. #109

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Asha, Cinnamon bark essential oil from Ceylan is quite expensive. Cinnamon from china and cinnamon leaves essential oils are cheaper, but obviously not as good.
    I am glad you told me -- I should not be making general statements if I do not know the whole story!

    I must add, my cinnamon was very inexpensive, and from a health food store. It is powerful and quite enjoyable. So, even an easily obtained, inexpensive natural cinnamon essential oil can be better than the cheap, nauseating cinnamon candle wax I smell in some niche fragrances.

  50. #110

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    I was under the impression that cinnamon leaf e.o. doesn't cause allergic reactions as much as cinnamon bark e.o. I think that's why it is substituted.

  51. #111

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    I was under the impression that cinnamon leaf e.o. doesn't cause allergic reactions as much as cinnamon bark e.o. I think that's why it is substituted.
    The Cinnamon bark essential oil is very irritant for the skin and mucosis. It is "dermocaustic". This is due to the high content of the molecule that gives the typical cinnamon aroma, 50% of cinnamic aldeide.
    Pure, the essence is so rich that it smells like overripe banana.
    The good thing is that so little is necessary to make it noticeable in a perfume that it cannot cause irritations, except in persons who have become allergic to it due to overexposition, most probably to the synthetic molecule.
    The leaves essence contains only 3% of this cinnamic aldehide, and 90% of Eugenol. You will understand that it smells very little of cinnamon and a lot of clove oil.
    The leaves oil could not really be used in high class perfumery, and certainly not for giving a cinnamon note. the eugenol note is avoided by perfumers like death, because it reminds of dentists, and most people hate to smell it outside the kitchen.
    In perfumery the synthetic molecule is used, and it is much more caustic and irritant than the natural bark essential oil, because in the oil are present a lot of other molecules that balance and soften the effect od cinnamic aldehide.
    Cinnamon will be in the next batch of samples.
    Last edited by Profumo; 5th March 2009 at 04:21 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  52. #112

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Some thoughts on a couple more...

    Holy Water

    A very pleasant and light frankincense cologne. The frankincense modified by citrus and a dry herbal quality. I enjoy this, especially given that frankincense is a "problem" note for me.

    Low sillage, but decent longevity.

    Blossom Green

    Citrus green notes and then poof, it's gone in a second. I can't review this, as the sillage and longevity are basically non-existent - as soon as it dries, it's gone.

  53. #113

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Galamb_Borang, I have been finding that with profomo's fragrances, I must apply rather heavily. The longevity for Morning Blossom was quite decent for me when I did this, and it was also fragrant for many hours on a coffee filter.

    Of course, this is barring any issues about skin chemistry. Some people's skin seem to really drink fragrance Putting it on paper takes this variable out of the equation.
    Last edited by Asha; 7th March 2009 at 10:57 PM.

  54. #114

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    This civet info is new to me. I hope it's not too much off topic, but to clarify; you are more sensitive to the smell if you are involved with a male & you are older, menopause age?

    I wonder because I just got Jicky in parfum & was overwhelmed buy the civet.
    I don't know how I missed your post, kumquat. I am not sure about civet sensitivity. I'm wondering if perhaps starting a new thread on this topic of civet-do-you-like-it-do-you-not? would shed some light (or just confuse me more).

    But how many women would be willing to state that they're in menopause or menstruating or. . . whatever! Well, it *is* the female fragrance board.
    Last edited by Aiona; 10th March 2009 at 05:20 AM.
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  55. #115

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Okay, sorry all for being so late to join in!

    Well, my batch of samples had arrived for quite a little while already but I wasn't so sure what to make of it. I thought I'd wait a bit longer to give 'em full wearings (since I didn't want to put in negative comments without waiting for an 180) I have to say though --- that out of all the sample packages I've received lately -- this is the most challenging. (makes ELDO seem easy)

    Anyway -- here are my thoughts and impression so far!

    Civet Tincture:

    Fecal fecal fecal! Smells very natural though and definitely different from the synthetic variation. I made 10+ people smell this (from the vial) and they all repelled in horror. (Remember that most Thais are used to light summery fresh colognes.. so this is bound to be a shock) This makes MKK and any other animalic scents seem wussy!

    I tried dabbing minute amounts of this on my skin, thinking that it might somehow reveal some "addictive" facets -- but it didn't. I will have to try it again later. (when my girlfriend is not around!)

    When I was living in my dad's house a long time a go when I was young, there was kind of a caged "cat house" that would smell similar to this when uncleaned.

    I find that this is good for dabbing lightly with other scents rather than using alone. (e.g. Civet Tincture + Spiritueuse Double Vanille = Vanille Animalique)

    Karo Karounde:

    Girlfriend says: Gasoline? Petrol?
    I say: One of the weirdest grassy-floral-dirty-sharp notes I've ever smelt. Can't believe that karo-karounde is actually a flower! This one took me by surprise.

    Holy Water:

    An almost transparent arid frankincense-citrus cologne that doesn't smell like incense IMO. (neither burnt nor the resin -- perhaps because I am Asian) This does remind me of an underground cemetary beneath a Catholic chapel I visit though. Very wearable and stays close to the skin.

    Blossom Green

    Sorrow to sound cruel, but this reminds me of those free 'cologne face-wipes' you get on some airlines, buses, and trains. I usually don't use them, but if it came drenched in this instead of sharp synthetics, I gladly would.



    Altogether, these La Via del Profumo scents to me, were more like an olfactory experience, or putting it in another way -- olfactory education. It was a pleasure to be able to sniff these natural scents in its full glory. Thank you!
    Last edited by moltening; 10th March 2009 at 08:16 AM.

  56. #116

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by moltening View Post
    Blossom Green

    Sorrow to sound cruel, but this reminds me of those free 'cologne face-wipes' you get on some airlines
    Me too! Maybe it was Thai Airlines and not China Airlines where I smelled this. But definitely not a US airline. But I do love that smell!

    I'm surprised you were able to get your family to sniff the civet. I'm heading to California tomorrow for a week. I may pack the civet with me, as I'll be seeing LOTS of family. I'm curious to see their reactions as well. Some are Thai, and some are not. It will be very interesting.
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  57. #117

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    African Queen Pink Panther

    Initial top notes smell mainly of citrus, orange, mandarine or tangerine, with supporting ripe fruit notes of apricot or peach. Having smelled the single note karo karounde, I recognize this ripe fruit note as the KK floral. On paper, this fragrance has a very persistent and off-putting gasoline note in the mid development. On skin, this is less pronounced, and smells more of a pungent, oily evergreen such as cypress. As the green note develops, the fragrance composition takes on a sweaty quality, almost like a combination bad body odor and urine. This stage does not last terribly long on my skin--the BO quality soon attenuates, and starts developing into a softened evergreen with sweet indolic floral and lingering citrus. Eventually, the karo karounde moves into an overripe fruit stage as I also perceived in the single note--it is sweet fruits and melons on the verge of going bad, and it has a fermented and sligtly meaty quality. The citrus changes significantly, and in this stage adds a tiny bit of sulfuric harshness which is also reminiscent of urine. In the drydown, the overripe fruit becomes quite sweet, but not cloying, and the fragrance as a whole takes on a soft powdery quality.

    I must admit, I was really quite afraid to try AQPP on skin. The gasoline scent I smelled on paper was so incredibly harsh and revolting that I did not want it on my body. Now it is clear that this fragrance is one of those that has a very different personality on the skin. I actually find it relatively pleasant, even if it seems to be more of a conceptual composition rather than a daily wear fragrance. In fact, the AQPP drydown is quite gorgeous--soft and sweet fruit with a hint of dry powder and spice. The more challenging part is definitely the mid development when the green notes add an animalic harshness that is simultaneously disgusting and alluring.
    Last edited by Asha; 22nd March 2009 at 06:19 PM.

  58. #118

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Profumo, I don't know whether it was the civet and lavender, or what, but I just found out yesterday that I'm pregnant. 'Very very funny story to tell, if this pregnancy is carried to term.
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

  59. #119
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    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Aiona View Post
    I just found out yesterday that I'm pregnant.
    Best wishes, dear one!
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  60. #120

    Default Re: La Via del Profumo's samples -- Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Aiona View Post
    Profumo, I don't know whether it was the civet and lavender, or what, but I just found out yesterday that I'm pregnant. 'Very very funny story to tell, if this pregnancy is carried to term.
    May God bless you and your child. I am delighted for you and for your husband. I had forgotten about the civet-lavender trick. I did not know you tried it. An other of your serious scientific experiments of course. If it works so well, give the advice to the other BN ladies.
    If it works for many others we shall have scientific confirmation about Civet-lavender efficacity.
    Last edited by Profumo; 24th March 2009 at 09:07 PM.
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