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  1. #1
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    JaimeB's Avatar
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    Default Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I have had this perfume for a long time, and it never ceases to amaze me. Maybe that's because I don't wear it very often, or maybe it's just because it's so very well-made. This perfume was first introduced in 1930, and as far as I know, it's the oldest AdP scent still being sold. According to the company, there are over 200 separate ingredients in the juice. I believe them, too.

    As for the juice itself, it is a kind of slightly green and spicy floral chypre, with a bit of powder added. One list of notes picks out the following:

    Top Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Mandarin
    Middle Notes: May Rose Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, Florence Iris, Grasse Jasmine
    Base Notes: Oakmoss Absolute, Patchouli, Gray Amber, Vetiver, Vanilla

    This is a minimal sketch, but it serves to give a very general idea of the complexity. This is the kind of chypre that puts one in mind of the soft, warm, cinnamon-scented character of Chanel pour Monsieur or Parfums de Nicolaï New York, but it has a depth, a layered touch, a nuanced feeling that the others, for all their excellent qualities, don't begin to approach.

    Most recently I wore this to a very swank restaurant for a Valentine's Day dinner with my love. I have to say, I can't wear this just any day, at least not to go out in. I also can't wear it if I'm dressed down; it demands a certain degree of seriousness and elegance just by its very nature. At the same time, it has a rapturous, sensuous quality to it; but it never speaks sensuality in a coarse or vulgar way. Understated, yet revealing a depth of power and feeling within, it communicates a voluntary and studied control of one's exuberance; still, it is not one whit less passionate for that assurance of self-control.

    Today I was putting the shirt I wore that night into the wash, and I could smell it just as it was when I wore it — hanging not quite in the foreground, but as fresh and rich and deep as the moment I put it on.

    What a gem! Are there any other admirers of this scent out there? If so, please chime in.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 17th February 2009 at 11:07 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

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    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    Male irato ferrum committitur.
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    —Seneca

  2. #2

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I have not tried this yet, but I must do so!

    Does the rose note bring anything to mind?

  3. #3
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    JaimeB's Avatar
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    It's a May Rose, a little sharper and less "round" than the damask rose, with a bit more of the citrus aspect of rose to it; but it's very well-balanced by the other florals, which are mostly full and rich. You really ought to try to smell it if you get a chance. It's really too complex to try to describe in words. Enjoy!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    Male irato ferrum committitur.
    It is an evil thing to arm an angry man.
    —Seneca

  4. #4

    Talking Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    It's really too complex to try to describe in words. Enjoy!
    Having read many of your excellent blog entries and reviews here, you will have to forgive me if I find that *very* hard to believe.

    Now added to my urgent list of things to try, thanks.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    This is an exquisite fragrance, and sadly much overlooked. I wear this for days when I have big meetings, and I feel as though Profumo completes my outfit. I still prefer Colonia, but I think this is probably the better balanced of the two. I especially enjoy the seamless movement between the phases, and it evolves in such a subtle way. Thanks JamieB for championing such a dark horse.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I too think the current version is a wonderful scent, as stated in my review of a few months(?) back. It's a beautifully constructed chypre in the classical tradition - one that can stand proudly next to Givenchy III or 1000! I've never smelled the vintage formula, but I have to say, I'm curious.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I bought several bottles of it at A$30 each when a shop was closing down a few years back. I gave them to my wife and cousin who were quite pleased with it.

    I haven't seen it being sold anywhere since that fortuitous purchase.
    Renato

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    Quote Originally Posted by Emlynevermore View Post
    Having read many of your excellent blog entries and reviews here, you will have to forgive me if I find that *very* hard to believe.

    Now added to my urgent list of things to try, thanks.
    Thanks for the kind words, but this one really beggars description, even from someone as glib as I can be...
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    Male irato ferrum committitur.
    It is an evil thing to arm an angry man.
    —Seneca

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I still haven't smelled this, but I have a story:

    When Ruggles and I went to the Guerlain boutique at The Breakers a couple months ago, the SA who was extremely helpful and friendly (even breaking out old vintage Guerlain testers from her purse, to let us smell) told us that her absolutely favorite new scent is Profumo. I was surprised. I was, at that moment, suffused with Guerlain all across my arms from sampling...so I couldn't skin test it. But I was intrigued - she talked very highly of it.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 18th February 2009 at 03:39 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I still haven't smelled this, but I have a story:

    When Ruggles and I went to the Guerlain boutique at The Breakers a couple months ago, the SA who was extremely helpful and friendly (even breaking out old vintage Guerlain testers from her purse, to let us smell) told us that her absolutely favorite new scent is Profumo. I was surprised. I was, at that moment, suffused with Guerlain all across my arms from sampling...so I couldn't skin test it. But I was intrigued - she talked very highly of it.
    Great to hear others still appreciate it, especially those in the know... and once again: Congrats on your myriad posts!
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
    My Reviews

    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    Male irato ferrum committitur.
    It is an evil thing to arm an angry man.
    —Seneca

  11. #11

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    This is the most BEAUTIFUL fragrance I have tried to date. Occasional whispers of patchouli, vanilla and rose (ylang Ylang?) are a delight to my senses, wonderfully accentuated with my body warmth. I HAVE TO HAVE A BOTTLE. This frag will obsess my thoughts until I do..

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I agree - it's one of the best chypres on the market and runs right up there with Mitsouko, Numero Uno and Chypre by Coty.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  13. #13

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I picked up a bottle quite by chance at the Acqua di Parma counter here at Harvey Nichols a couple of years ago - haven't seen it since, though.

    It is beautiful - a 'reference' chypre from another era in character and composition for me. It also has a brightness about it that somehow makes sense from this house (in light of my own 15+ years of enjoying Colonia, which is unfussily optimistic). Viva l'Italia!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    It's my favorite Acqua di Parma fragrance - great stuff.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  15. #15

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    I had the vintage and sold it like a fool, like a fool I say! Does the new one smell the same or at least similar enough?

  16. #16

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    This is gorgeous! I have to get this one.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Acqua di Parma Profumo

    Go get 'em, volley2

    It's a hidden treasure.

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