Group 1 most closely resembles an actual vetiver smell.
I am a little confused. I searched this forum but didn't get much info. I'd like to get expert opinion from you guys.
I have following vetiver fragrances and they smell very different. I group them to four types:
(1) Vetiver by Guerlain
Vétiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Encre Noire by Lalique
They are similar. I can tell they are from the same "source material". VE smells more purer, simpler, lighter and more refreshing. EN is similar to VE but more rounded and sophisticated, a tad sweeter.
(2) parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons
Vetiver by Floris
Completely different from group 1. I don't even get any hint of similarity between the two groups. This group smells very good in their own way, a tad sweeter, more aromatic.
(3) Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens
Very sweet and intense. No similarity to the above two groups either.
(4) Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
So sharp it stings my nose! extremely bitter. Again, very different from above groups, although the dry down has a hint of Group 2.
Personally, I like Group 1 the best. It has a sense of endless heavenly freshness. I enjoy Guerlain's smokey hint as well as the purity of VE.
Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 06:26 AM.
Group 1 most closely resembles an actual vetiver smell.
Last edited by argogos; 18th February 2009 at 02:14 AM.
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I've never smelled true vetiver: the grass itself or an essence oil.
But group 1 is the most appealing to me. Another "Group 1" vetiver is Zara's perfumed water Vetiver. Excellent citrusy vetiver minus the tobacco note in GUerlain's.
I would add a 5th group of vetiver composing of woody-incensed vetivers like Encre Noir or Le Labo's Vetiver 46.
Just curious - for those of you who have experienced numerous vetivers: where would Sel de Vetiver and Terre d'Hermes fall in all this?
My hunch is that Group 1 may be more true to vetiver smell too.
Could it be different kind of vetiver from different region are used for various brands?
The quality of the vetiver is very important, as they vary alot in aroma dependant on where they come from. Then the other difference is dependant on weather they used the root of the vetiver or just the leaves (or both!). The leaves obviously being much greener and fresher, with the roots being much earthier, vegetal and even sometimes much sweeter. Sometimes depending on the type of vetiver, the oil can be extremely smokey.
I have a very tiny (few drops) sample of pure oil that I can send you, when I send you the rest of the stuff we discussed. However, with this I think it is really important that it is diluted so you get the actual "correct" true smell of the "plant". Otherwise it is just far too concentrated and pungeant and does not actualy leave you with a "correct" overall true impression.
I for one prefer my vetiver frag's to be as natural smelling as possible i.e. earthy, rooty and with a touch of "that smell you would associate with an ancient forest floor". However most of the time they are watered down and "cleaned up" to smell more soapy and palitable to the masses. (My favourite is Le Labo's one, and for the "cleaner" one I prefer Malle's Vetiver Extrodinaire.
Except for the weird (and terribly off-putting) ozone note in Vetiver Extraordinare, it really does smell closest to the vetiver essetial oil that I have. 2nd closest I'd say is Route du Vetiver. Guerlain Vetiver is gorgeous, and probably the most wearable, but it has alot more going on, at least on the surface.
There are several kinds of vetivers and different processing techniques too, so there is not any one "right" way.
I second Etro Vetiver as a very close smelling vetiver to an oil I have sampled in the past. However it's still very different to the oil I now own. Once again another example of the huge difference in smells from different vetivers.
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Oops .... my "signature" that has just managed to slip in there, has actually got absolutely Zero to do with Vetiver frag's .... They are just my favourite frag's (i.e. magical elixers) that I'm testing at the moment, forgot to switch it off - Just thought I should mention , to avoid any missunderstandings !
Ok, seems there are indeed different smells of Vetiver. Would be great if they can be categorized somehow, otherwise if vetiver is listed in a pyramid it is meanless (or confusing) to the readers. They smell too different to be called simply "vetiver".
If you're really into Vetiver, I'd recommend Tauer's Vetiver Dance. Falling into your group 1 (same class with Guerlain's one), it smells pure, natural and the vetiver seems to be the only player from the top to the base note. Last long enough as well.
abc1243, search the "Note Identification" thread in the women's section. There were some posts about vetiver as a single note and a link to Ayala Moreil's blog on this exact subject.
Quote: Ok, seems there are indeed different smells of Vetiver. Would be great if they can be categorized somehow, otherwise if vetiver is listed in a pyramid it is meanless (or confusing) to the readers. They smell too different to be called simply "vetiver"
Any note used in a fragrance will pretty much have this same problem. Especially with all the other different notes that are blended together, bringing out different facets of that note and changing it's intrinsic aroma. It would be, not only impractical, but pretty much impossible to have them all differently categorized. That is the beauty of blending a fragrance - to bring out these different facets and aromas from the one note into all the different smelling compositions. Otherwise we would all be pretty bored by vetiver (or any other note) by now !
Last edited by abc1234; 18th February 2009 at 05:54 AM.
i would think VE and RdV would be in the same group, not Guerlain and VE
On the dark end of the spectrum, away from Guerlain's Vetiver, there's BPAL's Smokestack, which I'm guessing layers vetiver between cinnamon and birch tar.
TdH should go into a new category #5 which was already suggested above for more complex wood, incense & vetiver blends such as Vetiver 46, Nasomatto Absinthe, TdH, Red Vetyver, CdG 2 Man, Bois d' Orage, and Villoresi Vetiver.
I prefer Guerlain Vetiver and Creed Original Vetiver (the second one includes, in my opinion, Vetiver with nearly soapy, medical and minty undertones, yet, strangely, in an utmost pleasant way) and I also love and admire their lasting power. For a less costly vetiver, I also think that the price-quality ratio of the now discontinued Eau de Vetyver by Yves Rocher, yet still to find at special request in some Yves Rocher boutiques truly smells like vetiver and is my nearly ideal representation of an affordable powerhouse scent.
Have u ever tryed Vativer of ETRO ??
sel de vatiever?? and palais de jamais ?
very interesting vetiver accoords and very earthy.
I would not put VE and Guerlain in the same group. No. 1.
I also think that those two are not the closest interpretation of vetiver there is.
Vetiver is very dry, crisp and almost as earthy as patchoulli, but in a different way. Vetiver by itself is not very elegant IMO, and the Guerlain, VE and the CdG are very "adorned". I have not smelled Etro, but in my mind, the version made by Fragonard is the closest to the raw thing.
I do not think Terre D'HErmes is particularly heavy on the Vetiver.
I have a bottle of pure vetiver oil.
The closest I've smelled to that pure oil is Etro Vetiver.
Annick Goutal comes pretty close also.
Sorry, I was in a rush earlier on and I think I didn't quite make myself clear. When I mentioned that LL46 and VE as my favourite vetivers ... I actually meant that as a vetiver fragrance they are the ones I enjoy to wear myself (not that they are the closest to natural vetiver oil.)(My favourite is Le Labo's one, and for the "cleaner" one I prefer Malle's Vetiver Extrodinaire
For closest to true vetiver I would have to nominate MPG's Route Du Vetiver and Etro's Vetiver. (One "vegetal rooty" and smokey , and the other not as much but exactly like the vetiver oil I have for comparison. (Of course, a different V oil will then again smell closer to some other fragrance , once again.
Oops , I have to stop rushing .... how is that awful spelling : V Extraordinaire ...is what I meant to say !
I havnt smelled all of these mentioned but comparring to the many Vetiver Essential oils I have I would say Encre Noire by Lalique represents the actual vetiver very well. It is not exactly the same but I surelly dont think Geurlain Vetiver smells anything like the real Vetiver essential oil. Real vetiver has a grassy earthy wintergreen fragrance to it wich the Encre captures very well in my opinion.
Has anyone tried L'Occitane's Vetyver? I found it very smoky/woody in the beginning but that softened over time and left a very pleasant vetiver (I think) note at the end, one I enjoyed much more than Guerlain's.
Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 05:01 AM.
I picked up Vetiver de Puig early into this "hobby," and I like it once in a while, but not that often, so I never considered getting another vetiver frag. I did sample Guerlain's Vetiver about a month ago, but I didn't find anything really compelling about it.
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hehe... we sure smell different things.:-) After ALL these venture in vetiver fragrances, Guerlain Vetiver is still THE KING!
Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 06:24 AM.
The vetiver scent that made me love vetiver was Etro's wonderfully murky Vetiver.
My other faves are Annick Goutal, The Different Company, Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Carven and L'Occitane but I've never liked Guerlain.
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Although some may find it appealing, "smokiness" in vetiver notes/oil is usually an indication of poor quality vetiver oil.
I don't find much in common between Guerlain Vetiver and Malle's Vetiver.
My favorite "earthy green-woody" vetiver is Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire.
For lighter, greener vetivers I wear Original Vetiver and Guerlain Vetiver.
How is Guerlain´s Vetiver pour Elle compared to the others, how would you categorize it? I think the men´s version has a "true" vetiver accord, but there are other stuff there too (and there is something in there that I don´t like... tobacco?).
Is pour Elle as vetiver prominent but with other things going on besides, or is the vetiver toned down? Or both?
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Since you're interested in vetiver frags, you've got to go to a shop that sells essential oils and smell it straight. The vetiver oils that I've smelled have a very intense scorched earth note to them and a density that is tarlike, and then underneath that an herbal/loamy/grassy/armpit smell that is wonderfully pleasant. But this material is pretty beastly, and it's quite wonderful to have a sense of what it's like straight and then to smell both the versions that keep the beast and just throw some apt company into the cage, like Etro, Lorenzo Villoresi, MPG, etc. And even more miraculous, to me anyway, is the wizardry of something like Sel de Vetiver, in which vetiver oil is clearly discernable but it's been transmuted into something boyant, ethereal. Sel de Vetiver is a lovely alchemy, and the recent version of Guerlain's Vetiver is close to as good a trick for much less money.
There was an old thread about vetiver I remember reading when I first came to Basenotes, and I thought it was one of the best posts made here:
I hope it will be helpful! Of course, it's missing some of the more current favorite fragrances, but it's worth reading for anyone interested in vetiver!
One thing I almost have the same conclustion as the OP of that thread is: so far Guerlain Vetiver is the best of all vetiver fragrances, although he thought it is the second best. I will have to try Carlo Corinto Vetyver !!!
Last edited by abc1234; 8th March 2009 at 06:27 AM.
There's a new vetiver on the scene that deserves mention: Lez Nez Turtle Vetiver, (introduced to me by BNer Gerald). It most definitely smells like vetiver - at the same time, it is very wearable. To my nose it seems to be somewhere between Annick Goutal's Vetiver and Chanel's Sycamore. I think it is bottle worthy.
I have to add that I wouldn't want to be without FM Vetiver Extraordinaire & Annick Goutal's Vetiver although there seems to be a rumour of the latter's having been reformulated. I hope not.
I agree with everyone who has crowned Guerlain as the standard by which they judge all others. I have read scentemental's post...so I realize the spectrum is broad.
I have 3 essential oils that I purchased from different sources, and only one of them reminds me of the vetiver I smell in guerlain. This is what, I believe, scentemental was talking about with
respect to the extraction process of essential oils. I have tried dozens of vetivers, and
for some reason, my brain cannot process them without a comparison to Guerlain.
Last edited by scentaddiction; 8th March 2009 at 01:14 PM.
Malle's VETIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE ( The best vetiver IMO )
Lalique's ENCRE NOIRE ( also magnificent )
Givenchy VETYVER ( my first vetiver....the new issue is the same of the original, thanks GOD !!!)
Lutens' VETIVER ORITENTAL ( luxurious )
MPG's ROUTE DU VETIVER ( Dark and pure, beautiful ! )
Last edited by ROBERTO; 9th March 2009 at 09:22 AM.
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I also love Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire.
My absolute favorite however is: Spanish and ' pure' Vetiver Hombre (A. Dominguez)
The long discontinued Vétiver by Carven (1957) is simply awesome,
although less vetivery: Mugler Cologne with an extra dose of V.
Last edited by narcus; 9th March 2009 at 06:16 PM.
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