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  1. #1

    Default Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I am a little confused. I searched this forum but didn't get much info. I'd like to get expert opinion from you guys.

    I have following vetiver fragrances and they smell very different. I group them to four types:

    (1) Vetiver by Guerlain
    Vétiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
    Encre Noire by Lalique


    They are similar. I can tell they are from the same "source material". VE smells more purer, simpler, lighter and more refreshing. EN is similar to VE but more rounded and sophisticated, a tad sweeter.

    (2) parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons
    Vetiver by Floris

    Completely different from group 1. I don't even get any hint of similarity between the two groups. This group smells very good in their own way, a tad sweeter, more aromatic.


    (3) Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens
    Very sweet and intense. No similarity to the above two groups either.


    (4) Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier
    So sharp it stings my nose! extremely bitter. Again, very different from above groups, although the dry down has a hint of Group 2.


    ===========================================

    Personally, I like Group 1 the best. It has a sense of endless heavenly freshness. I enjoy Guerlain's smokey hint as well as the purity of VE.
    Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 07:26 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Group 1 most closely resembles an actual vetiver smell.
    Last edited by argogos; 18th February 2009 at 03:14 AM.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I've never smelled true vetiver: the grass itself or an essence oil.

    But group 1 is the most appealing to me. Another "Group 1" vetiver is Zara's perfumed water Vetiver. Excellent citrusy vetiver minus the tobacco note in GUerlain's.

    I would add a 5th group of vetiver composing of woody-incensed vetivers like Encre Noir or Le Labo's Vetiver 46.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Just curious - for those of you who have experienced numerous vetivers: where would Sel de Vetiver and Terre d'Hermes fall in all this?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    My hunch is that Group 1 may be more true to vetiver smell too.


    Could it be different kind of vetiver from different region are used for various brands?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    The closest to plain vetiver oil I have smelled is Etro Vetiver. Vetiver oil itself is pretty affordable.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    The quality of the vetiver is very important, as they vary alot in aroma dependant on where they come from. Then the other difference is dependant on weather they used the root of the vetiver or just the leaves (or both!). The leaves obviously being much greener and fresher, with the roots being much earthier, vegetal and even sometimes much sweeter. Sometimes depending on the type of vetiver, the oil can be extremely smokey.
    I have a very tiny (few drops) sample of pure oil that I can send you, when I send you the rest of the stuff we discussed. However, with this I think it is really important that it is diluted so you get the actual "correct" true smell of the "plant". Otherwise it is just far too concentrated and pungeant and does not actualy leave you with a "correct" overall true impression.
    I for one prefer my vetiver frag's to be as natural smelling as possible i.e. earthy, rooty and with a touch of "that smell you would associate with an ancient forest floor". However most of the time they are watered down and "cleaned up" to smell more soapy and palitable to the masses. (My favourite is Le Labo's one, and for the "cleaner" one I prefer Malle's Vetiver Extrodinaire.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Except for the weird (and terribly off-putting) ozone note in Vetiver Extraordinare, it really does smell closest to the vetiver essetial oil that I have. 2nd closest I'd say is Route du Vetiver. Guerlain Vetiver is gorgeous, and probably the most wearable, but it has alot more going on, at least on the surface.

    There are several kinds of vetivers and different processing techniques too, so there is not any one "right" way.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I second Etro Vetiver as a very close smelling vetiver to an oil I have sampled in the past. However it's still very different to the oil I now own. Once again another example of the huge difference in smells from different vetivers.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Oops .... my "signature" that has just managed to slip in there, has actually got absolutely Zero to do with Vetiver frag's .... They are just my favourite frag's (i.e. magical elixers) that I'm testing at the moment, forgot to switch it off - Just thought I should mention , to avoid any missunderstandings !

  11. #11

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Ok, seems there are indeed different smells of Vetiver. Would be great if they can be categorized somehow, otherwise if vetiver is listed in a pyramid it is meanless (or confusing) to the readers. They smell too different to be called simply "vetiver".

  12. #12

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    If you're really into Vetiver, I'd recommend Tauer's Vetiver Dance. Falling into your group 1 (same class with Guerlain's one), it smells pure, natural and the vetiver seems to be the only player from the top to the base note. Last long enough as well.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    abc1243, search the "Note Identification" thread in the women's section. There were some posts about vetiver as a single note and a link to Ayala Moreil's blog on this exact subject.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote: Ok, seems there are indeed different smells of Vetiver. Would be great if they can be categorized somehow, otherwise if vetiver is listed in a pyramid it is meanless (or confusing) to the readers. They smell too different to be called simply "vetiver"

    Any note used in a fragrance will pretty much have this same problem. Especially with all the other different notes that are blended together, bringing out different facets of that note and changing it's intrinsic aroma. It would be, not only impractical, but pretty much impossible to have them all differently categorized. That is the beauty of blending a fragrance - to bring out these different facets and aromas from the one note into all the different smelling compositions. Otherwise we would all be pretty bored by vetiver (or any other note) by now !

  15. #15

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    abc1243, search the "Note Identification" thread in the women's section. There were some posts about vetiver as a single note and a link to Ayala Moreil's blog on this exact subject.
    Thanks Asha. I will check it out.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by cusut View Post
    If you're really into Vetiver, I'd recommend Tauer's Vetiver Dance. Falling into your group 1 (same class with Guerlain's one), it smells pure, natural and the vetiver seems to be the only player from the top to the base note. Last long enough as well.
    haha..... I was turned away by all the negative reviews. Didn't cross my mind to give it a try. Interesting that you think it falls into group 1 while most of the reviews point to the other way.
    Last edited by abc1234; 18th February 2009 at 06:54 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    i would think VE and RdV would be in the same group, not Guerlain and VE

  18. #18

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    On the dark end of the spectrum, away from Guerlain's Vetiver, there's BPAL's Smokestack, which I'm guessing layers vetiver between cinnamon and birch tar.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by Haunani View Post
    Just curious - for those of you who have experienced numerous vetivers: where would Sel de Vetiver and Terre d'Hermes fall in all this?
    I would put Sel d' Vetiver in the same category with Vetiveru, although it is considerably different from it in complexity. But they both are light and uplifting and have very true vetiver notes.

    TdH should go into a new category #5 which was already suggested above for more complex wood, incense & vetiver blends such as Vetiver 46, Nasomatto Absinthe, TdH, Red Vetyver, CdG 2 Man, Bois d' Orage, and Villoresi Vetiver.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudassir View Post
    The closest to plain vetiver oil I have smelled is Etro Vetiver. Vetiver oil itself is pretty affordable.
    Second my friend Mudassir with his Etro Vetiver proposition. Dry and earthy, as the oil itself, with no decoration.

    Also I`d like to add Fumidus by Profumum - less diluted vetiver oil.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I prefer Guerlain Vetiver and Creed Original Vetiver (the second one includes, in my opinion, Vetiver with nearly soapy, medical and minty undertones, yet, strangely, in an utmost pleasant way) and I also love and admire their lasting power. For a less costly vetiver, I also think that the price-quality ratio of the now discontinued Eau de Vetyver by Yves Rocher, yet still to find at special request in some Yves Rocher boutiques truly smells like vetiver and is my nearly ideal representation of an affordable powerhouse scent.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Have u ever tryed Vativer of ETRO ??

    sel de vatiever?? and palais de jamais ?

    very interesting vetiver accoords and very earthy.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post
    I would put Sel d' Vetiver in the same category with Vetiveru, although it is considerably different from it in complexity. But they both are light and uplifting and have very true vetiver notes.

    TdH should go into a new category #5 which was already suggested above for more complex wood, incense & vetiver blends such as Vetiver 46, Nasomatto Absinthe, TdH, Red Vetyver, CdG 2 Man, Bois d' Orage, and Villoresi Vetiver.
    I agree and think they are much better than Group 1.
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  24. #24

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I would not put VE and Guerlain in the same group. No. 1.

    I also think that those two are not the closest interpretation of vetiver there is.

    Vetiver is very dry, crisp and almost as earthy as patchoulli, but in a different way. Vetiver by itself is not very elegant IMO, and the Guerlain, VE and the CdG are very "adorned". I have not smelled Etro, but in my mind, the version made by Fragonard is the closest to the raw thing.

    I do not think Terre D'HErmes is particularly heavy on the Vetiver.
    Last edited by irish; 18th February 2009 at 06:48 PM.
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  25. #25

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I have a bottle of pure vetiver oil.

    The closest I've smelled to that pure oil is Etro Vetiver.

    Annick Goutal comes pretty close also.

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  26. #26

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by union1411 View Post
    i would think VE and RdV would be in the same group, not Guerlain and VE
    I agree, they both have sharp vetiver accords.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    (My favourite is Le Labo's one, and for the "cleaner" one I prefer Malle's Vetiver Extrodinaire
    Sorry, I was in a rush earlier on and I think I didn't quite make myself clear. When I mentioned that LL46 and VE as my favourite vetivers ... I actually meant that as a vetiver fragrance they are the ones I enjoy to wear myself (not that they are the closest to natural vetiver oil.)
    For closest to true vetiver I would have to nominate MPG's Route Du Vetiver and Etro's Vetiver. (One "vegetal rooty" and smokey , and the other not as much but exactly like the vetiver oil I have for comparison. (Of course, a different V oil will then again smell closer to some other fragrance , once again.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Oops , I have to stop rushing .... how is that awful spelling : V Extraordinaire ...is what I meant to say !

  29. #29

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I havnt smelled all of these mentioned but comparring to the many Vetiver Essential oils I have I would say Encre Noire by Lalique represents the actual vetiver very well. It is not exactly the same but I surelly dont think Geurlain Vetiver smells anything like the real Vetiver essential oil. Real vetiver has a grassy earthy wintergreen fragrance to it wich the Encre captures very well in my opinion.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Has anyone tried L'Occitane's Vetyver? I found it very smoky/woody in the beginning but that softened over time and left a very pleasant vetiver (I think) note at the end, one I enjoyed much more than Guerlain's.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by abubakr_al-misky View Post
    I havnt smelled all of these mentioned but comparring to the many Vetiver Essential oils I have I would say Encre Noire by Lalique represents the actual vetiver very well. It is not exactly the same but I surelly dont think Geurlain Vetiver smells anything like the real Vetiver essential oil. Real vetiver has a grassy earthy wintergreen fragrance to it wich the Encre captures very well in my opinion.
    Just got a bottle of Encre Noire. It is close to VE but much milder and rounded, a tad bit sweeter as well. VE wins overall in terms of the feel of true vetiver, transparency, airiness, and silage. But EN is really good indeed, definitely a keeper!
    Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 06:01 AM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I picked up Vetiver de Puig early into this "hobby," and I like it once in a while, but not that often, so I never considered getting another vetiver frag. I did sample Guerlain's Vetiver about a month ago, but I didn't find anything really compelling about it.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    hehe... we sure smell different things.:-) After ALL these venture in vetiver fragrances, Guerlain Vetiver is still THE KING!
    Last edited by abc1234; 7th March 2009 at 07:24 AM.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    The vetiver scent that made me love vetiver was Etro's wonderfully murky Vetiver.

    My other faves are Annick Goutal, The Different Company, Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Carven and L'Occitane but I've never liked Guerlain.
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  35. #35

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Although some may find it appealing, "smokiness" in vetiver notes/oil is usually an indication of poor quality vetiver oil.

    I don't find much in common between Guerlain Vetiver and Malle's Vetiver.

    My favorite "earthy green-woody" vetiver is Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire.

    For lighter, greener vetivers I wear Original Vetiver and Guerlain Vetiver.
    -

  36. #36

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    How is Guerlain´s Vetiver pour Elle compared to the others, how would you categorize it? I think the men´s version has a "true" vetiver accord, but there are other stuff there too (and there is something in there that I don´t like... tobacco?).

    Is pour Elle as vetiver prominent but with other things going on besides, or is the vetiver toned down? Or both?
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  37. #37

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Since you're interested in vetiver frags, you've got to go to a shop that sells essential oils and smell it straight. The vetiver oils that I've smelled have a very intense scorched earth note to them and a density that is tarlike, and then underneath that an herbal/loamy/grassy/armpit smell that is wonderfully pleasant. But this material is pretty beastly, and it's quite wonderful to have a sense of what it's like straight and then to smell both the versions that keep the beast and just throw some apt company into the cage, like Etro, Lorenzo Villoresi, MPG, etc. And even more miraculous, to me anyway, is the wizardry of something like Sel de Vetiver, in which vetiver oil is clearly discernable but it's been transmuted into something boyant, ethereal. Sel de Vetiver is a lovely alchemy, and the recent version of Guerlain's Vetiver is close to as good a trick for much less money.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by pelle View Post
    How is Guerlain´s Vetiver pour Elle compared to the others, how would you categorize it? I think the men´s version has a "true" vetiver accord, but there are other stuff there too (and there is something in there that I don´t like... tobacco?).

    Is pour Elle as vetiver prominent but with other things going on besides, or is the vetiver toned down? Or both?
    I'm very, very interested in Vetiver Pour Elle, I have a sample en route right now. I'm not quite sure what to expect, but am intrigued nonetheless.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    There was an old thread about vetiver I remember reading when I first came to Basenotes, and I thought it was one of the best posts made here:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...hlight=vetiver

    I hope it will be helpful! Of course, it's missing some of the more current favorite fragrances, but it's worth reading for anyone interested in vetiver!

  40. #40

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by Schachman View Post
    There was an old thread about vetiver I remember reading when I first came to Basenotes, and I thought it was one of the best posts made here:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...hlight=vetiver

    I hope it will be helpful! Of course, it's missing some of the more current favorite fragrances, but it's worth reading for anyone interested in vetiver!
    hey thanks for the thread, somehow it slipped from my search for vetiver.

    One thing I almost have the same conclustion as the OP of that thread is: so far Guerlain Vetiver is the best of all vetiver fragrances, although he thought it is the second best. I will have to try Carlo Corinto Vetyver !!!


    ...
    Last edited by abc1234; 8th March 2009 at 07:27 AM.

  41. #41
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    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Quote Originally Posted by pelle View Post
    Is pour Elle as vetiver prominent but with other things going on besides, or is the vetiver toned down? Or both?
    It's less vetiver prominent with a whole lot more florals (specifically jasmine) up front and center giving it a slightly soapy vibe.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    There's a new vetiver on the scene that deserves mention: Lez Nez Turtle Vetiver, (introduced to me by BNer Gerald). It most definitely smells like vetiver - at the same time, it is very wearable. To my nose it seems to be somewhere between Annick Goutal's Vetiver and Chanel's Sycamore. I think it is bottle worthy.

    I have to add that I wouldn't want to be without FM Vetiver Extraordinaire & Annick Goutal's Vetiver although there seems to be a rumour of the latter's having been reformulated. I hope not.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I agree with everyone who has crowned Guerlain as the standard by which they judge all others. I have read scentemental's post...so I realize the spectrum is broad.
    I have 3 essential oils that I purchased from different sources, and only one of them reminds me of the vetiver I smell in guerlain. This is what, I believe, scentemental was talking about with
    respect to the extraction process of essential oils. I have tried dozens of vetivers, and
    for some reason, my brain cannot process them without a comparison to Guerlain.
    Last edited by scentaddiction; 8th March 2009 at 02:14 PM.

  44. #44

    Thumbs up Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    Malle's VETIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE ( The best vetiver IMO )
    Lalique's ENCRE NOIRE ( also magnificent )
    Givenchy VETYVER ( my first vetiver....the new issue is the same of the original, thanks GOD !!!)
    Lutens' VETIVER ORITENTAL ( luxurious )

    MPG's ROUTE DU VETIVER ( Dark and pure, beautiful ! )
    Last edited by ROBERTO; 9th March 2009 at 10:22 AM.
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  45. #45

    Default Re: Which Vetiver fragrances smell more vetiver?

    I also love Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire.
    My absolute favorite however is: Spanish and ' pure' Vetiver Hombre (A. Dominguez)

    The long discontinued Vétiver by Carven (1957) is simply awesome,
    although less vetivery: Mugler Cologne with an extra dose of V.
    Last edited by narcus; 9th March 2009 at 07:16 PM.
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