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  1. #1

    Default New MDCI perfumes

    I wrote an e mail asking abut the new MDCI perfumes and here is the reply I got from Claude Marchal

    Thank you so much for letting us know that your parcel had been delivered without problems. sending things by Post always makes me nervous... As for the new scents we are introducing now, one , "Péché Cardinal" is by Amandine Marie of the famous fragrance house Robertet (www.robertet.com if you are curious); Two " PN#1 and PN#2, now "Le Rivage des Syrtes" and "Un Coeur en Mai" ( to be introduced later in spring) are a special creation of Patricia de Nicolaï for MDCI; the fourth, formerly "Riche Orient or RO ( code name) and now "Vêpres Siciliennes" is signed Jeanne-Marie Faugier, a perfumer who works for the lab which supplies us with "Invasion Barbare". If you want more details, I am at this moment updating our website, and will add, among other changes, descriptions of the new fragrances: here are roughs of some of the texts I am working on with a friend who helps with the translation: Péché Cardinal:a fruity floral main notes: Top notes: davana, peach, coconut, blacurrant, blackberryHeart notes: tuberose, prune, lilybottom notes: cedar, sandalwood, muscs Notes for Patricia de Nicolaï's N#1 , ooops, "Le Rivage des Syrtes", an oriental floral:

    Top notes: Sweet orange essence, pineapple, galbanum
    Heart notes: ylang ylang, tuberrose, orange blossom absolute, incense
    Bottom notes: ambergris, vanilla, muscs

    Inspiration for the name:

    This is PdN's own : this is about a lonely sailor who travels from island to island and gathersc, on
    the shore or inland, precious and odorant substances, plants or other things that he stores in a chest to bring back home for the love of his life.... hence the connection with seas, shores...
    The name itself comes from a famous French novel, by an author named Julien Gracq,; "les Syrtes" are in french at least, an immensely poetic name for
    the two gulfs bordering the shores of ...Lybia; the whole name means "The shores of the Syrtes" or the syrtean shores" or something like this. Very
    very pretty in French, I don't know how it sounds and resonates in American. I hope it does not sound too bad. (luckily, Colonel Khadafi is beheaving
    these days...).


    Now for "Vêpres Siciliennes", ex R.O, a fruity, green chypre:

    Notes first:
    this is a very complex formula, with tons of ingredients used as secondary notes to provide an ever changing result; one may be surprized to
    find certain ingredients part of the heart or the bottom notes (oak moss in he heart notes, raspberry and..peach in the bottom notes). The way these
    ingredients is used is quite subtle, and I believe it works.
    Top notes:mandarin, grapefruit,orange, pepper, green leaves,cardamom,
    lily-of-the- valley, magnolia
    Heart notes: jasmin, ylang ylang, rose, tuberose, heliotrope, oak- moss,
    cedarwood, amber, orange flower
    Bottom notessmanthus, raspberry, cloves, plum, coconut, peach, caramel,
    musk, wallflower

    JMF's idea was something rich, not unlike "Enlèvement au Sérail", with no gaps, a continuously evolving trail and a fine dry-down.

    For me, the result immediately evoqued Italy, with its beauty, wealthes , complexity, ligh and ...dark sides ( these peppery notes! = poison?). A word about the name: Sicily was a natural, and the association of "Vêpres" with "Sicily" instantly called for... "Les Vêpres Siciliennes", an opera by Giuseppe Verdi
    about a conspiracy which saw the massacre of the French occupants in 1282...( the dark side!) . "Vêpres" mean the evening prayer, (when the action started, I guess), but let's say in the present case , the rare and peaceful moment of the day when
    the sun goes down, the heat is tolerable, orange orchards smell their best, and lovers eagerly wait for the night, assassins as well....

    Italy: sun, colours, smells, flowers, the sea, desire, love, evening, danger...More simply, "Les Vêpres Siciliennes" flow
    beautifully in French, this is pure poetry -to me, at least. Et voilà! You've just had a peek on the inside of a perfumer's work! Have a great day, Claude Marchal
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  2. #2

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Great news! Thanks for the info, - I hope that Claude does not get angry by that
    I want to try green chypre now...
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  3. #3

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    I hope that Claude does not get angry by that
    I think no, he should not be angry. It's a common practice that basenoters share the responses from perfume houses.

    Today in the morning I smelled all 5 current MDCI perfumes.
    The weekest one to my nose is Ambre Topkapi by Pierre Bourdon. My colleague commented that it smells like a shower gel he uses. It smells like hugo boss scent heavy on amber.

    Invasion Barbare evoked my recollections about Dior's Fahrenheit (prior reformulation).

    Frencis Kurkdrijan's three feminine scents made the greates impression.
    Promesse de l'aube and Enlevement au serail are modern sweet chypres (in the style of 31 Rue Cambon, Jubiliation 25). Enlevement au serails gave me some vibes of Mitsouko and was more masculine than Promesse de l'aube.
    Rose de Siwa is also very nice. It has some resemblence with Grojsman's YSL Paris.
    Last edited by DreamerII; 3rd March 2009 at 10:58 AM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  4. #4

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII View Post

    Invasion Barbare evoked my recollections about Dior's Fahrenheit (prior reformulation).
    This is disappointing. I would love to hear what other members have to say about this comparison.

    The sample set is already on my list of purchases for the next month and the primary reason to buy it is for Invasion Barbare.

  5. #5

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    I think it is worth to buy a sample set. The scents are made of quality materials and they smell luxury.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  6. #6

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by gupts View Post
    This is disappointing. I would love to hear what other members have to say about this comparison.

    The sample set is already on my list of purchases for the next month and the primary reason to buy it is for Invasion Barbare.
    If Invasion Barbare were similar to Dior's Fahrenheit (prior reformulation), I would have have already sold my by bottle of IB. Please smell for yourself and then draw your own conclusions.
    Last edited by Jock_With_Scents; 3rd March 2009 at 12:18 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    If Invasion Barbare were similar to Dior's Fahrenheit (prior reformulation), I would have have already sold my by bottle of IB. Please smell for yourself and then draw your own conclusions.
    Point taken JWS...

    The sample set will surely be ordered early next month.

  8. #8

    Default Re: New MDCI perfumes

    Personally, I'm quite baffled as to why Patricia de Nicolaï has created a couple of original creations for MDCI instead of releasing them under her own brand name...

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