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  1. #1
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    Quarry's Avatar
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    Exclamation All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    For newcomers, here's the lowdown on this monthly online event:
    Every member, any gender, novice or veteran sniffer, is invited to apply a fragrance related to the theme of the month (listed below) and share your thoughts on the first Saturday of the month. This isn't a mandatory assignment; it's just for fun. Because not everyone logs in on weekends, you're encouraged to continue to add comments within this themed thread on subsequent days. If you don't join us for this month's discussion, please look ahead at the tentative lineup and join in at a later date.
    JANUARY ~ Oriental
    (warmth, flowers, spices, woods & vanilla)
    FEBRUARY ~ Animalic
    (civet-, castoreum-, leather-, or musk-influenced scents)

    MARCH ~ Chypre
    (used to be defined by oakmoss presence, but ...?)
    APRIL ~ Floral
    (single solifore or full bouquet of flowers)
    MAY~ Fruity
    (single sweet fruits or a bowl of fruity-florals)
    JUNE ~ Citrus
    (hesperidic: bergamot, lemon, orange, grapefruit, tangerine, etc.)
    JULY ~ Green
    (fresh leaves & grasses)
    AUGUST ~ Fresh or aquatic
    (cool, dewy notes and seaside scents)
    SEPTEMBER ~ Opposite-Gender Fragrance -or- Fougere
    ("fern like;" lavender + woods + coumarin + geranium + oakmoss)

    OCTOBER ~ Ambery
    (dark, light or blond amber as feature note)
    NOVEMBER ~ Spicy
    (warm notes associated with cooking)
    DECEMBER ~ Gourmand
    (fragrances with a foody note, but not usually fruity--save for May)
    Looking for suggestions?
    See previous SnS discussions:
    Jan. 2007~Orientals Feb. 2007~Animalics March 2007~Chypres April 2007~ Florals May 2007~Fruity June 2007~ Citrus Sept. 2007~Fougere Oct. 2007~ Amber Nov. 2007~Spicy Dec. 2007~ Gourmand Jan. 2008~Orientals Feb. 2008~Animalics March 2008~Chypres April 2008~Floral May 2008~Fruity June 2008~Citrus July 2008~Green Aug. 2008~Fresh/Aquatic Sept. 2008~Opposite Gender or Fougere Oct. 2008 ~ Amber Nov. 2008 ~ Spicy Dec. 2008 ~ Gourmand Jan. 2009 ~ Oriental Feb. 2009 ~ Animalic

    For the months of July and August 2007, regular BN was offline and supporters had access to an abbreviated site. We discussed aquatics and greens, but those posts are no longer accessible.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  2. #2
    pomander's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    FANTASTIC! I can't wait for 'communal Chypre' to permeate the earth's atmosphere. I have about one spray of 31, rue Cambon left from my cherished decant...I might part with it for SnS.....Will have to look ito all the possibilities.......

  3. #3

    Smile Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Woah...getting into the big guns fragrances...I think I'll stick with Mitsouko. Mike Perez sent me a sample of the perfume. !!!
    Oh and I just figured it out...so did Dimples. What darlings both.
    Last edited by lizzie_j; 7th March 2009 at 10:26 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    wow i missed so many!
    I don't even remember when was the last time i posted on the S&S, maybe it was the time i wrote about all the EA's Green Teas way back when?

    Hopefully I'll give my 2 cents here...

  5. #5

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I will wear Miss Dior

  6. #6

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    This might even be my favourite category. Well, maybe not - it flip-flops between florals and chypre. Nevertheless, I am spoilt for choice: will it be the reference chypre Mitsouko (though sadly a mere amputee of the original version)... or what I think might be the best chypre in the world, Y... or one of the newfangled chypres (which are quite a different beastie), NR for Her... or something else entirely! FUN!
    Last edited by Nukapai; 4th March 2009 at 07:50 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Well, I'll be going away so won't be able to post but I do like chypres, in fact wearing one today: Chant d'Aromes by Guerlain.

  8. #8
    Lian's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I think Bandit is somewhat a chypre right? I also have a decant of 31 rue, but I have a feeling Im not a chypre girl :/
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
    Currently wearing: L by Lolita Lempicka

  9. #9
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Ah, now this is the category I struggle with. I just don't seem to get along that well with oakmoss. But maybe I'm getting more accustomed to it.

    Anyway, having looked at everyone else's choices and especially after checking last year's (and realising how much I miss a few faces that don't post here very often now), I've come up with my own shortlist:
    Bandit (edp)
    Jolie Madame
    Miss Balmain
    Libertine (is this REALLY a chypre?)
    Mitsouko extrait from a sample Vivek sent me
    31 Rue Cambon from a sample Quarry sent me

    I'm sure that a sift through my large bag of samples will throw up a few more possibliities.

    I am determined to find some chypres that I love and to extend my enjoyment of perfume to include this category. I know I can never learn to love Cabochard, but maybe one day I will discover the joy of Mitsouko.

    A question: does SJP's Lovely count as a chypre?
    And what about Madame Rochas?

    Instruct me!
    Last edited by Wordbird; 5th March 2009 at 01:19 PM.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  10. #10
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    Ah, now this is the category I struggle with. I just don't seem to get along that well with oakmoss. But maybe I'm getting more accustomed to it.
    Have you tried sweetening one of the chypres with some orange blossom or the like? I remember experimenting with layering Jo Malone with Cabochard and Miss Balmain and enjoying some awfully good moments.

    Nowadays the green-and-not-too-dry J-L Scherrer has got me wrapped all around it's little nozzle. And then there's Profumo's Oak Moss (vetiver, sandalwood, oak moss). Am surprised how much this category has consumed by affection.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I think I'm going to wear Knowing.
    Or Femme.
    Or maybe Cristalle.
    Unless I decide to go with Chanel No 19.
    Of course my first thought was to wear 31, rue Cambon.

    Gaaaa...Help!

  12. #12

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Dear Quarry, and other chypre fans,
    What makes a non-oakmoss chypre?
    Confusedly Yours,
    NOPSWICH (Novice Perfumista Struggling With Chypres)

  13. #13
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    lizzie_j, I think the non-oakmoss chypres are ones that give the effect of powdery oakmoss without actually having it as an ingredient. I don't really get the illusion in 31RC, even though I think it is a masterfully composed fragrance.

  14. #14

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    lizzie_j, I think the non-oakmoss chypres are ones that give the effect of powdery oakmoss without actually having it as an ingredient. I don't really get the illusion in 31RC, even though I think it is a masterfully composed fragrance.
    Thanks very much...!!

  15. #15
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I wasn't sure what I was going to wear - the only chypres in my collection that I knew qualified for sure were a sample of Bandit and my "modern woody chypre", Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, which gets zero love in this place (and my be somewhat of a poser chypre to begin with). But then I found this thread, which told me that my Tiffany For Men qualifies. I'm overjoyed! I rarely have reason to wear this beautiful but ber-classy scent. TFM it is.
    * * * *

  16. #16

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by lizzie_j View Post
    Dear Quarry, and other chypre fans,
    What makes a non-oakmoss chypre?
    Confusedly Yours,
    NOPSWICH (Novice Perfumista Struggling With Chypres)
    I scampered over to OzMos and got some clarification.

    Sort of.

    I now see I have a STAGGERING array of lovelies from which to choose: Badgley Mischka, Aromatics Elixir, 24 Faubourg, Bandit, Cabochard, 1000, Missoni...and of course the DIVINE Ume.....

    ...not to mention the few drops of vintage Mitsouko sent by a sleek and lovely wolf girl....
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  17. #17

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I've been told what notes are in a Chypre, I'm still drawing a blank.

    Can anybody give me an example of a well known Chypre?

    PLEASE!

  18. #18

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by mcjra View Post
    I've been told what notes are in a Chypre, I'm still drawing a blank.

    Can anybody give me an example of a well known Chypre?

    PLEASE!
    I'd be glad to.

    Here's a few:
    Derby
    Chanel pour Monsieur
    Tiffany for Men
    Giorgio for Men
    Devin
    Macassar
    Aramis
    Bulgari Black
    Town & Country
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 6th March 2009 at 01:05 PM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  19. #19

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    What fortuitous timing! Just this week I had one of those rare eBay super-scores, and obtained a bottle of perfectly preserved Givenchy III EDP. The EdT has been a favorite for some time, and the EdP turns up the volume without being overbearing at all. I regret I didn't get it sooner so that I could send out samples to whomever wanted for SnS day. I look forward to wearing this tomorrow!

  20. #20

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I wore Giorgio for Men last year and was very tempted to do so again this year.

    I ended up wearing Giorgio yesterday so that I could dedicate today to Jacques Polge's masterpiece - Tiffany for Men!
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  21. #21

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm starting the day with Yvresse. It always gives me a lift. However, I prefer the early stages of it, the drydown is not so great on me :-/

  22. #22

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    OMG !!!
    My gateway to the scented world...
    I love these to death- I'll probably wind up in several.

    My M de Molinard arrived last night-from the 1849 line, but at a fraction of the price [ literally].
    Pyramid, per Molinard:

    Bergamote, cyste esterel, fruits, galbanum, bourgeons de cassis
    Jasmin de Grasse, ylang-ylang, rose centifolia, narcisse, encens
    Ambre, patchouli, vetyver

    Dry, green, elegant as all getout.
    The narcissus and patchouli , I find, pull sweetness from the rose and jasmin-
    While the galbanum, cassis buds and vetyver make everything sparkle... and green !
    Of course, there are aldehydes, no doubt.

    I like to wait until it is warm to wear this one; on me, it blooms with heat.

    No doubt- I'll also succumb to Antilope edp [ a warmer, softer aldehydic green chypre], Y, the Scherrers, Chamade, Mitsouko, Quartz de Molyneux, Jub 25, Molinard de Molinard, Cristalle edp,
    # 19, Miss Dior, Diorella, Yvresse....

    Just STOP me.

    Have a wondrous day !

  23. #23

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Having discovered I own ZILLIONS of I-never-thought-of-them-as chypres I am going to Astaroth BIG TIME today....starting with the much-maligned but loved-by-my-bod

    (that's Vivienne Westwood Boudoir, SMM)

    Sprayed in the air it's unremarkable but on me a mossy, fresh, light hearted rose with just a thorn-let to give it zing.

    Rule Britannia!
    (More later.)
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  24. #24
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Acqua di Parma Profumo
    Notes: bergamot, orange, ylang ylang, orris, jasmine, rose, patchouli, oakmoss, grey amber, vanilla

    Chypres have always been a challenge for me, but that's exactly what keeps me interested. Part of the intrigue, I've found, is their dualistic nature. While they can be utterly elegant and feminine, they can also hint at a warm, womanly voluptuousness. Similarly, they can have a bold, rock the room presence even as they evoke a close, intimate quality. I recently twigged onto this duality and it was a eureka moment, a big help towards my "getting" chypres.

    In the beautiful Profumo, the dual nature is well evident. It's both well-mannered -- classically "perfumey" -- and delightfully earthy. The citrus bright top flows seamlessly into the rich floral heart. Ylang ylang can overwhelm me sometimes but here it gives a welcome fullness and sweetness. Eventually the basenotes emerge for a vital, animalic counterpoint to the elegance that's come before. This is a beautiful, well made fragrance, classical perfumery at its best.
    "I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume." - Jacques Guerlain

  25. #25

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I decided to go for the less obvious (in my case) and spray a bit of my sample of 31 Rue Cambon (thank you Ubu).

    The opening is so animalic that it almost makes me blush. Once the whiff of crotch calms down and the blend of the scent begins to unravel, my second thought is "the scent is wearing me", or "I've borrowed someone else's perfume". Someone who is in a tailored suit with a racy thong underneath. Still, it's beginning to smell interesting.

    When the scent warms, it softens and becomes more rounded, though the aldehydic/animalic character is definitely still present. At this point I can almost imagine wearing this out somewhere, though I think I'm more of a Coco girl. There is a recognisable Chanel signature about this scent and it feels like Coco's sister - they'd look at each other and appraise "Hmm," thinks 31RC, "she's pretty, but she's wearing far too much lipstick and ostentatious jewellery". "Wow," thinks Coco, "she's pretty, but why does she have to be so snooty? I bet she has a racy thong underneath that perfectly fitting suit."
    Last edited by Nukapai; 7th March 2009 at 01:32 PM.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by tdem1961 View Post
    Acqua di Parma Profumo
    I've been wanting to test this one for a while now - your comments make me even curiouser. Enjoy!
    Currently wearing: Epice Marine by Herms

  27. #27
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Well I wasn't sure what a Chypre was, either, so I Wikied it and got this description:

    "Chypre is a name used to describe a family (or concept) of perfumes, usually with a top note of citrus and woody base notes derived from oak moss and ambergris." (from Wikipedeia)

    So does this mean my beloved Vol de Nuit is a chypre? Please tell me as that can be my SOTE!

    I always thought a chypre HAD to have that lash of oakmoss in the tail that I struggle with, so I am wearing Miss Balmain on my left arm (and today for the first time I'm getting the leather, yahoo! at last!). I am learning to love those Balmain gals, but I do find them a tad feisty and difficult. I still have to brace myself before spritzing. Mind you, after several hours of wear, Miss Balmain is now wearing much closer to the skin and is rather a sexy girl underneath that brash exterior. I say!

    On my right arm I have Libertine, which I was astonished to see described as a chypre. Really? Truly? I'd have said it was a really nice spring floral. I don't get the 'sweet n sour' thing from it that I thought was part of being a chypre.

    But then, I'm learning a lot today - Cuir de Russie is a chypre according to Wiki, and now I read that my beloved Bulgari Black and Molinard de Molinard are chypres too! Well whoda guessed?

    Like the 'gender bender/fougere' SnS back in November, I think this is an area that will get me researching and making little trips to smell things. Well, I'm Welsh, so I suppose I have to like Chypre... (wow a perfume joke, a nationalist joke and a really bad pun, all rolled into one!)
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  28. #28

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    The definition I've parsed together from Turin and from BN is that chypre contains the 'bergamot/oakmoss' combo, but usually also contains labdanum and/or patchouli as supporting notes. The mixture of oakmoss and bergamot creates a 'ghost note' that we recognize as a chypre. Therefore while fragrances without oakmoss can approximate chypres, they aren't technically chypres.

    BNer mrclmind was quite educated on chypres and described it better than I ever could.

    "It's really the bergamot mixed with the oakmoss that creates the classic accord we have come to know as chypre. With respect to Mr. Luca, labdanum is secondary to the creation of this accord, although it is almost always present in order to help round out the accord. A musical analogy would be that you can play the tonic and the third of a triad without the 5th and you would get the whole chord. Playing the fifth anchors it more, but it's not absolutely necessary.

    Pure Oak Moss absolute and steam distilled bergamot together create a type of "olifactory vibration" which results in type of "ghost note." Since Coty's Chypre is not available (you can still find decants, but this juice is very old), the one I would recommend as one of the reference chypres is Mitsouko. Mitsouko is basically a stripped down chypre with a peach note added. This peach note makes a huge difference in the whole effect and anchors the basic chypre structure in such a way as to make it much more wearable. Mitsouko in my opinion is one of the scents I could never tire of smelling, it's just that good. A couple of masculine chypres of note are Channel pour Monsieur (original formula, not concentree) and Monsieur Givenchy. If you smell these three you can get the idea of the basic chypre accord and will recognize it when you smell it.
    "

    See this thread for more info: http://community.basenotes.net/showt...t=Chypre+genre

    I believe I've changed my mind. No more Givenchy III EdP. I'm trying to decide between vintage Dior Diorling EdT (leather chypre) or Guerlain Parure EdT (rose chypre).

  29. #29

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    This is an easy category for me.
    I didn't know it then, but Chypres were destined to be my favorite category ever since I fell in love with Jean Marc Sinan in the 1980s. After that, they just fell into place:
    1000, No. 19, Knowing, Aromatics Elixir, Miss Dior, Paloma Picasso, Chamade, Vol de Nuit, and many, many others. For some reason, they did well on my skin, and they fascinated me with their dual nature, sweet florals and fruits tempered by dry, woody notes.
    Today I wear one of the older ones, which is most captivating, Jean Patou 1000. This one I recommend in either the parfum or EDP--but not EDT, which has harsh topnotes to navigate before sinking into the beautiful osmanthus base. It is floral and woody, and a bit animalic. The notes waver; one can smell the ingredients separately, unlike cheaper perfumes that come at you like a wall of smell. What does it smell like? Perfume. It smells like the time when women did not feel like they had to apologize for wearing fragrance. It smells like a substance, created to enhance and thrill, not like a "real" fruit, floral, or natural essence. You would not want to eat it. You would not expect to find it growing in a meadow so you could stick your face in the petals. Rather, you would expect to find it in a hefty, faceted glass bottle tied with a gold thread, sealed with a heavy, rectangular stopper of ground glass. And when you drabbed the magical substance on your wrist, it would unfold into a myriad of aromas, reminding you again and again, throughout the day, that life is special, amazing, and enjoyable. It would call your attention to its presence, murmuring hints about your unique personality. This is exactly what a perfume is supposed to do, and why it will always be my favorite.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 7th March 2009 at 02:08 PM.

  30. #30

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    ...... Well, I'm Welsh, so I suppose I have to like Chypre... (wow a perfume joke, a nationalist joke and a really bad pun, all rolled into one!)
    Baa baa, black chypre??!!

    And Nukie...those Chanel mini-scenes are purrrr-fect. Maybe under that pinstriped Armani she's even GOING COMMANDO!!!

    Having nothing else to add for now.....just had to say.....
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

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