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  1. #31

    Talking Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Thanks Wordbird for the enlightening post. I'm in the ultimate 'Sheeper' for chur. Mitsouko extrait (thanks again, Mike P you doll-face). The reference Chypre according to the demigods that I worship at a small alter in my guest room; LUKA and TANIA. So I will re-read the documents and attempt to deconstruct what, for me, is a small miracle of scent. Miracle because most of my wardrobe is only fit for a 25 y/o bubblegum chewing riot grrrl, or an elderly woman who has lost her sense of smell and can only taste sweets! Yet I love this! One of my few concessions to maturity (and with any luck, not the last)

  2. #32

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Youse guys are making me laugh !

    I TOILD you I couldn't resist...
    So, I switched to Antilope.
    [It reminds me of my cousin in Colorado- who invaded my bedroom when I was a teen...she wore this, plus Bandit, and was a good 10 years older than I ]

    There are varying impressions of the notes for this :
    [Imagination Perfumery]
    By PARFUMS WEIL

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    YEAR INTRODUCED 1945

    Antilope Pour Elle Perfume for Women by Parfums Weil was launched in 1945. Created over 60 years ago, Antilope by Parfums Weil is a classic floral bouquet with lots of charm and sophistication. Passionate, sensual and extremely feminine, it has been the signature fragrance of many celebrities around the world. Antilope Pour Elle is the original fragrance first introduced by Parfums Weil, with a new packaging and new bottle.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    FRAGRANCE NOTES
    Sage, neroli, bergamot, chamomile, lily of the valley and jasmine, patchouli, iris, ambergris and vetiver.

    It is SO warmly green- as opposed to cool.
    Thje heart notes- the lilial and jasmine- just SING.
    I adore the base- so smooth.
    In the edc or edt- it's too fleeting; I'm thrilled with how true to the original this IS.
    [My olfactory memory is SO happy !]

    Other beauties I neglected to mention:
    Replique
    Crepe de Chine
    Chant D'Aromes

    My brains are farting today.....

  3. #33

    Therese's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Baaa, right back at you, Tao. I am wearing the black sheep,

    AL Chypre Noir

  4. #34

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Taolady View Post
    And Nukie...those Chanel mini-scenes are purrrr-fect. Maybe under that pinstriped Armani she's even GOING COMMANDO!!!
    Yup, she could be

    (BTW, after several hours of wear, I'm now left with a very sweet dry-down, almost the Coco drydown minus some booze and volume. I turn everything to its sweetest possible variant - which sometimes makes fruity scents over-ripe. In the case of 31RC it's pleasant. I'm thinking this might be one for the guys who were keen on Coco drydown, but worried it might be too feminine).

  5. #35
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Chypre Saturday is turning out to be lighthearted and brimming with good humor! What a way to start the weekend...

    31 Rue Cambon by Chanel is my 'chypre du jour'

    The notes I've found include:

    Bergamot * Black Pepper * Patchouli * Cistus Labdanum * Iris

    ...Which officially places this gorgeous concoction outside of the classical chypre category.
    I think that's why it's so wearable for me. 31RC imparts a feeling of contemporary elegance - like still being a fashionista while wearing blue jeans and sweater! It's very comfortable that way.
    Sometimes it even evokes a feeling of meloncholy...which Mitsouko can do as well. Also, like Mitsouko, 31RC is lactonic - which for my nose equals 'over ripe peach' note. The first time I noticed a lactonic element in a fragrance was when I tried Gucci Rush. After smelling Rush, I went back to Mitsouko and immediately picked up on the lactones. By the time 31RC hit my wrist, I knew what I was sniffing!

    31RC while close wearing, lasts an eternity. When I wear it, it's very typical to detect remnants the next morning...or notice it lingering on my gloves or jacket cuffs.

    Some people may not think it qualifies as a chypre...but I cannot think of any other suitable category - unless we consider it to be in a class unto itself!

    As a sidenote - Nuks, your commentary cracks me up! I love it! And the rest of you too - thanks for the uplifting and jolly start!

    :wave: Stepping back in to give a shout out to Quarry ~ thanks for introducing me to 31 Rue Cambon! I owe my love of this remarkable frag all to you!!!
    Last edited by ubuandibeme; 7th March 2009 at 03:48 PM.

  6. #36

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Purplebird, what a perfect, elegant description of 1000. I haven't tried the EdP, but now clearly I must. Since I only have the EdT, I'm sampling that on one wrist, and Rosine's Une Folie de Rose on the other. Here's the description of the Rosine from their website:

    Une Folie de Rose is made with cultivated roses.
    It belongs to the olfactory family: Chypre.
    The perfume was created in 2004 by Franois Robert.
    Une Folie de Rose is a warm and vibrant perfume to be worn with fur and silk.

    Olfactory family : Chypre.
    Top note : Bergamot, Coriander.
    Heart note : Ylang, Jasmine, Tea rose, Bulgarian and Turkish rose absolue, Iris.
    Base note : Sandalwood, Oak moss, Patchouli, Vetyver, Benzoin.

    I remember when mrclmind explained the chypre genre on the men's board, and have tried to wrap my head around the concept of the ghost note. I've come to discover that many fragrances I love are in this category, but I cannot easily distinguish a chypre by scent, so I end up looking up fragrances for their determined family. To identify a chypre, am I correct in thinking this ghost note is slightly sharp and biting?

  7. #37
    exquisitely me's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I join this post with serious reservations... my previous attempts with the above classified chypres were uniformly scrubbers... but I was impatient, and probably a bit out of line disrespecting "grand old dames" like Mitsouko.

    So I'm gonna brace myself and give another sniff, and force myself to wait through the dry down. It can't possibly be as bad as I remember and still maintain such loyal following!! After all, I've been wrong before...

    but if Mitsouko still eludes me, I'll give 31 Rue Cambon another go...

    and barring success with that, on to Bulgari Black...

    and if I'm still struggling after all that.... I'll concede defeat and soothe my chypre-assaulted sniffer with a dose of Carnal Flower.

  8. #38
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Starting my day with Guerlain Mitsouko EDP

    I don't wear it often, and I forget how great it really is. When I first spray, I get a blast of bergamot and lemon, and this is soon followed by vetiver--not the usual smoky green, but the early development stage of vetiver which is nutty and warm. There is also a medicinal note I don't remember smelling before--it makes me wonder if there is an herbal ingredient other than oakmoss here (perhaps sage?). It is really sort of like synthetic castoreum in its "antiseptic" phase, but I do not see castoreum listed in any notes sources. Right now I am basking in the nutty vetiver which is the part of this fragrance that ultimately swayed me to buy a bottle.

  9. #39

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    My second chypre of the day is Mitsouko edp. Normally I have to be all dressed up to wear it but today it feels so familiar and comforting.

  10. #40

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    After much deliberation over various chypres, I went with my decant of vintage Dior Diorling EdT, which I believe is technically a leather chypre. For oakmoss fans this would be heaven - oakmoss is dominant from the first spray, and in fact the bergamot/citrus component is very subtle but definitely present to enhance and round out the entire composition. As Diorling dries it the oakmoss smooths, becoming distinctly leathery. The effect of wearing the fragrance - the aroma surrounding me - is much more enjoyable then just testing it. On the arm it seems a little harsh, but worn it feels luxurious classy in the same way that vintage Chanel Cuir de Russie is. Although not overwhelmingly strong (I applied quite a bit), the longevity is fantastic. I tested it last night and it was still very noticeable on my arm this morning. If you happen to be curious enough to look for a bottle (let me know btw, I'd love one), don't get confused between this and the vintage EdC, which isn't hard to find but also isn't very strong at all.

    BTW, 31 Rue Cambon is a favorite of mine. I believe Chanel was marketing it as the 'chypre without oakmoss', and yes, it's pretty much as close to chypre-smelling as you can get without the oakmoss. In fact it's remarkably chypre-y, an effect created with iris instead of oakmoss. Very interesting and fun to wear fragrance.

  11. #41

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm trying my Mitsouko again just for today. I honestly love how it smells when it first makes contact with my skin -- on me it has a vintage "powder and lipstick" beginning. Sort of medicinal. A bit oily. And somewhat potpourri-ish. Soon, however, the scent will become meaty,even fetid on me -- and that is when I am always poised to scrub. We'll see how today plays out.

  12. #42

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    This month I have to take a break from my re-exploration of the scents of my pre-Basenotes existence. That is because I didn't own any chypres until this past year. Mitsouko evokes a special scent memory for me and it is one of my favorite feminine scents. Chaya was kind enough to let me sniff and try the alpha to the class as she dabbed on some of her precious Coty Chypre when I was visiting a few weeks ago. To decide what to wear today was really quite easy. bbBD was kind enough to share the wealth when he found a buyer who had a few bottles of this available and I count myself extremely fortunate to have this bottle due to bbBD's generosity.

    Chanel pour Monsieur (1955)

    Chypres are one of the classic perfume families but it is a hard family to find masculine scents in. It's not that the class is inherently feminine, it isnt. Its more that the best examples of the class are all more commonly classified as feminine scents. That changed in 1955 when Henri Robert composed Chanel pour Monsieur and perhaps created the best masculine chypre. The scent starts out with the typical fresh top of bergamot and citrus. What I enjoy about the top of Chanel pour Monsieur is that I can pick out the individual citrus notes present. First it is lemon, then orange all with the bergamot entwined. The transition to the spicy heart of this is ushered in by cardamom. The lemon character of the spice forming the perfect intermezzo until coriander and delicate ginger join in. This spicy heart just sings on my skin and to my sensibilities. The base is a mix of cedar and oakmoss to usher this home in classic style. There are many scents that wish they could do what Chanel pour Monsieur pulls off almost effortlessly, which is to ooze class from every note. One caveat this scent is discontinued and extremely hard to find. The Chanel pour Monsieur Concentree that is widely available is a different beast entirely. To experience the best masculine chypre you will have to do a little hunting. I think it is well worth the effort.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  13. #43
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I had put on the original, the one and only, the glorious...CHYPRE by Coty (vintage). It is funny how bare-bones this scent is compared to the rest of the family it gave birth to. But at the same time it is one of the most tenacious of them all. It started of unassumingly with a nice bright opening of bergamot, fresh almost sunny. Rather quickly it lost its brightness and became heavier, deeper with a scent reminiscent of the shady areas of the garden. it is not the heavyness of a forest, yet it has a touch of dankness. This heaviness is also mingled with an herbaceous quality, reminiscent of what I typically use in my sauce; sage especially, maybe thyme or savory also. This all gives way to an oakmossy heaven, but I detect the floral shining through (very briefly) then it fades. The oakmoss gives an earthiness, but not a strong earthy quality, almost a "powdery"-earthy quality (if that is possible). The most wonderful part of this occurs when the warmth really come out, I believe that would be the labdanum, which is so wonderfully delicious. The civet is also quite intoxicating and it really starts to show itself very delicately, but becomes slightly more pronounced the longer it wears.
    As I have always said; "If I owned a Civet, I would play with her constantly, so as to have that wonderful skank on myself always."
    The only way I can sum up Chypre is; A wonderful banquet commenced with a dish of citrus sorbet. The next course is a wonderful pasta with the most aromatic Pesto sauce in the world on it. Fresh flowers are then placed on the table, of which I catch a whiff. I then excuse myself to powder my nose, briefly thereafter stroll through the evening garden pausing at the shrubbery and inhaling deeply. Dessert is then served which consists of warm caramel puddings with a hint of spice. I then suddenly catch a whiff of something urineous wafting in from the open doors to the garden; damn that tomcat
    Last edited by Brielle87; 7th March 2009 at 06:49 PM.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser sa source

  14. #44

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Miss Dior today. Miss Dior is my Aunt's (Dad's Sister) favourite perfume. Today I was working when I wore it and sold 2 bottles because of women asking me what I smelled of! My review...

    Opens with a simultaneously sharp and bitter floral note, as well as a boozy note reminiscent of bay rum to me. It's loud, but in no way harsh. But whats surprising about Miss Dior is that it comes across as more unisex to me, maybe not so much of the "Miss". The heart is powdery, warm, ambery Labdanum with the Oakmoss playing a huge role, with it's 'fairytale' smoky quality. The florals feel scorched and burned, but also dried out and similar to a pot pourri.
    The drydown is dry smoky Oakmoss and green Patchouli, with a soft Leather and Vanilla in the background, as well as a downright dirty and almost fecal Jasmine. Difficult to imagine this on a "Miss", she'd probably be going for the flanker.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    ***Long Post***

    Well I nearly missed this amazing SnS day too but it seems my scent angels are watching out for me. On another fragrance board someone asked for examples of my favourite classic chypres (vintage and or modern) and I managed, without breaking a sweat to list 45!! So as you can probably guess this is a very pleasant SnS day for me where I am completely spoiled for choice:

    Gres Cabochard (vintage EDT & parfum)
    Coty Chypre (the original and the best)
    Guerlain Vol de Nuit (vintage EDT & parfum)
    Guerlain Mitsouko (vintage EDT & parfum)
    Balmain Jolie Madame (vintage EDT)
    Jean Patou Colony (vintage)
    Jean Patou 1000 (vintage EDT)
    Guerlain Chant d'Aromes
    Guerlain Parure
    Aqua di Parma Profumo (vintage)
    TBS Japanese Musk (vintage oil)
    TBS Chypre (vintage oil)
    Caron Tabac Blond
    Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum (vintage EDT & EDP)
    Halston Classic
    Estee Lauder Knowing
    Chanel No.19 (vintage EDT) *not strictly a chypre but very chypre like*
    Estee Lauder Azuree
    Caron Nuit de Noel (vintage PdT)
    Carven Ma Griffe
    Yves Rocher Comme un Evidence
    Jean Couturier Coriandre
    Van Cleef & Arpels First
    Dior Miss Dior (vintage EDT)
    Balmain Miss Balmain (vintage)
    Ava Luxe Midnight Violet
    Rochas Femme (vintage EDT & modern EDT)
    Aramis Aramis pour Elle
    Clinique Aromatics Elixir
    Lancome Sikkim
    Ungaro Diva
    Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur
    La Perla by La Perla
    L'Arte di Gucci
    Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit
    Nikki de Saint Phalle by Nikki de Saint Phalle
    Jacomo Couer de Parfum / Parfum Rare
    Lancome O de Lancome
    Parlux Animale for women
    Prince Matchabelli Cachet
    Lentheric Tweed
    Avon Timeless (vintage EDT)
    Revlon Charlie (vintage EDT)
    Ava Luxe Film Noir parfum
    Ava Luxe Moss parfum

    Chanel Antaeus
    Guerlain Coriolan
    Halston Z-14


    Spookily I have been having a torrid love affair this past week with a classic chypre that I never really appreciated before - Pierre Balmain Jolie Madame. I am truly blessed to have this in both vintage and modern (re)formulation and since I have been indulging in them both this past week have a clear appreciation of how they are similar but also differ.


    Notes:
    Top notes are artemisia, coriander, gardenia, neroli and bergamot
    Heart notes are tuberose, narcissus, orris root, jasmine and rose
    Base notes are leather, patchouli, musk, coconut, civet, oakmoss and vetiver


    I cannot sing to you the many ways this beauty seduces me... This is seriously threatening to become a forever and ever HG alongside my beloved Gres Cabochard, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Guerlain Winter Delice, TBS Mostly Musk, Ava Luxe Rasa Xtreme and Givenchy III (among others). I realise now that my love / indifferent attitude to it has been largely influenced by which formulation I have been wearing. Both are EDT I believe, the the vintage bottle does not list strength... merely stating that it is the 'atomiseur'. I would sell body parts to own a bottle of the parfum.

    The differences between the two formulations are immediately obvious and neither is disagreeable. Both open green mentholated herbaceous...one gets greenery, sharp alive but not herbaceous in the sense of culinary herbs (thyme, basil, rosemary). These are large waxy green leaves like those used as the 'backdrop' to fantastic exotic bouquets. I love the scent of Artemisia / Wormwood so adore the opening but here it is not vibrant 'acid' green like in the sublime Ava Luxe Absinthe. Here the greenery is much sweeter and drier, open to the sun in the new formulation, compared to the moist, dense undergrowth opening of the vintage scent.

    From the start the greener, denser base notes are making their presence known: - the vetiver clean and green, the leather pliant. They take a bow and then fall back until the play is more fully underway. This green opening, dappled with sunlight tarries into the heart notes which are soft, elegant, warm but not tropical in both. For me the narcissus and orris root (violets) reign equally for me and do wonderful things that cause me to stop mid task and wriggle with delight at how amazing I smell and am lucky to be experiencing such olfactory beauty. Again the modern version is much drier and reserved calling to mind pages in old well thumbed books wafer thin with time... an echo of former glory. The vintage is much more alive having a purple hued sepia tone to it... like an old photograph where the sitters are such characters, so vibrantly alive that you watch their lips expecting them to speak.

    Even as I am enjoying this nostalgic reverie the base notes are emerging and creating that wonderful contrast the french describe as 'troublesant'. This is due to the ever amazing classic oakmoss + patchouli + bergamot chypre core that melds with the skin smelling like sun warmed skin but better. True oakmoss adds a smooth creamy, foamy dreamlike texture to a blend like the shimmer of heat in the air or on the skin on a summer's day. Not quite tangible enough to capture with words but a feeling never forgotten once felt. That is the 'ghost note' mentioned previously.

    That feeling in a chypre scent cannot be synthesised no matter what the companies tell you, because the essential ingredient to bring out that note on a person's skin is the persons skin itself. The chypre oakmoss actually reacts to and NEEDs skin to truly come alive and emerge otherwise it never really blooms. Most synthetic oakmosses lack this synergistic nature and fail abysmally.

    Here that dreamy, creamy oakmoss ghost note is made even more moist and irresistible due to the (true, unsweetened, natural) coconut and even more seductive / animalic due to the civet, musk and leather which come forth in the base and dominate until it fades away (many hours later). The final whisper is claimed by the vetiver still shrouded by the orris and narcissus.

    For me the modern formulation is a fashionable 50's young lady at her boudoir getting ready for her P.A. (glorified secretary) job getting dressed in her new Dior (look) pencil skirt suit, made in a wonderfully demure small dogtooth check. Her violet scented talc still open upon the dressing table.

    The vintage appears the same but she is not as uptight though still perfectly put together... the crisp white blouse has a few buttons open and we can catch a glimpse of a butter soft black leather basque as she powders her dcolletage.

    Personal notes on Modern formulation:
    Jolie Madame tries hard to smell like a vintage blend but is a superficial shadow of the real thing. No sexy, elegant, creamy animalic base here... Instead we get dry woods with a touch of incense. The narcissus / orris heart here are reminiscent of Worth Je Reviens - sepia, parchment like, Echoe's breathy voice upon the wind, strangely nostalgic and sexless. Elegant and acceptable by modern standards / noses not a scratch on the real thing (original blend). Longevity leaves something to be desired also... but then again it is an EDT. Think I shall look for another bottle of vintage and use this as a complimentary deodorant.

    Personal notes on vintage formulation:
    OMG! I have died and gone to olfactory heaven! The vintage formulation of Jolie Madame has the most wonderful animalic nature / base and great longevity adding a sublime dry animalic leather and soft smoky woody incense to the sensual creamy oakmoss. A wonderful comfort scent for me (who usually likes in your face woods, and spice) but too sexy and sensual to be just worn to bed. This blend is a bombshell scent subtly seducing under the cover of elegant proficiency. Never have you met violets like this! I think it is the animalic leather incense base notes but this recalls to me my beloved Gres Cabochard vintage EDT / parfum and I can see this become my violet HG.
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  16. #46
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Yay chypres! I'm in one of my very favorites-- Ralph Lauren Safari. A very dry, grassy chypre that is quite casual for this family (I consider most chypres to be refined, elegant, mature). I haven't worn this since last summer (it's a warm weather scent for me), but today is gloriously sunny and warm, and I'm on my way to have lunch outdoors in the sunshine.

    Tonight: Bandit!
    Eddie: Sweetie, what are you drinking?
    Patsy: Oh, this? Chanel No. 5.
    -- Absolutely Fabulous

  17. #47

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Hi all. I spent part of my morning doing research, because I've been a little confused about this category. The series by Helg of The Perfume Shrine helped me a lot. Here's the link to the first installment, for others who are on the chypre learning curve:

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...1-origins.html

    Thanks to Analavande and Kumquat , I had some nice chypre sample choices for today. Frankly, I've been a little afraid of them (flashing "chyprish" grin). On my two hands and two wrists, I have

    Vintage Gres Cabochard Parfum
    Gres Cabochard EDT
    Vintage Miss Dior Parfum
    Vintage Ma Griffe Parfum

    To put it briefly, I am SHOCKED that I am liking these! The Cabochard is the most challenging, but I find it compelling, especially the vintage parfum. The Miss Dior has a sweetness that seems perfectly balanced by the musty moss underpinnings. The Ma Griffe is an appealing, very wearable green concoction, to my nose.

    I think I might have to look for a decant of Miss Dior. Heavens!

  18. #48

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by an_oud_girl View Post
    Yay chypres! I'm in one of my very favorites-- Ralph Lauren Safari. A very dry, grassy chypre that is quite casual for this family (I consider most chypres to be refined, elegant, mature). I haven't worn this since last summer (it's a warm weather scent for me), but today is gloriously sunny and warm, and I'm on my way to have lunch outdoors in the sunshine.

    Tonight: Bandit!
    Ahhhhhhh, that was one of my favourites! (And resulted in one of my most memorable perfume shopping experiences. Me to SA: "I'd like a bottle of Safari, please." SA: "Daahlink, what are you doing wearing that? You're blonde, this too strong for you! It's for brunettes only." Yes, I had my natural hair colour, albeit bleach-assisted at the time. )

    Have you ever tried Leiber? I felt that there was a strong link between the two, like Leiber is Safari's daughter who wears less velvet.
    Last edited by Nukapai; 7th March 2009 at 08:04 PM.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I am wearing Jean Patou Colony.
    I am not sure if these are all the notes: fruits, pineapple, ylang ylang, iris, carnation, oakmoss, vetiver and spices.
    Of course I would like to have more definition on the fruits and spices.
    This is the first time I give this perfume a full wearing. I remember smelling it at a store in the late 80s, but I had just bought Ma Liberte, so I did not pay much attention.
    It is beautiful, very nice pineapple that is not cloying or overly sweet.
    Evenstar

  20. #50
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    So enlightening to read everyone's thoughts on 31 rue Cambon. That animalic opening is too much for me. I have that 5 ml decant going unused if someone is interested. No matter how many I try or how hard I try philosophize, I cannot tolerate skank! No civet, no castoreum, no indollic flowers, nothing.

    Onto chypres, what a great idea by the way, I'm wearing the very beautiful Ormonde Woman....does that count? Here are the notes: cardamom, coriander, grass oil, black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute, vetiver, cedar wood, amber, and sandalwood.

    Have an excellent Saturday night

  21. #51

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    ...Well, I'm Welsh, so I suppose I have to like Chypre... (wow a perfume joke, a nationalist joke and a really bad pun, all rolled into one!)
    Quote Originally Posted by Taolady View Post
    Baa baa, black chypre??!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    ...As I have always said; "If I owned a Civet, I would play with her constantly, so as to have that wonderful skank on myself always."...
    Thanks for the smiles, ladies! Ewe are all so adorable!

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    The only way I can sum up Chypre is; A wonderful banquet commenced with a dish of citrus sorbet. The next course is a wonderful pasta with the most aromatic Pesto sauce in the world on it. Fresh flowers are then placed on the table, of which I catch a whiff. I then excuse myself to powder my nose, briefly thereafter stroll through the evening garden pausing at the shrubbery and inhaling deeply. Dessert is then served which consists of warm caramel puddings with a hint of spice. I then suddenly catch a whiff of something urineous wafting in from the open doors to the garden; damn that tomcat
    I love this analogy! I am amazed at the complexity of the chypres I'm testing today.

    And Purplebird, you have me inspired with your prose about Jean Patou 1000. I believe I have a sample. Must dig it out.

    Also, I didn't realize that Vol de Nuit is a chypre. I like that one a lot!

  22. #52

    tang's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm usually the first one to run from any hint of skank & animalic. If I detected any of that in 31 Rue Cambon, I wouldn't be wearing it & lusting after a FB! It feels very quiet & tame to me.

    I'm not sure what to try on for SotE. I have Badgley Mischka, 24,Faubourg, and NR for Her, but I want push the envelope a bit....

  23. #53

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Oh Chaya! And Ah! MoonDeva...you are making me nostalgic for those unmatchable classics...Replique (LLP has a remake...fuhgeddaboudid)...Crepe de Chine....Jolie Madame....they don't hardly make them like that anymore.

    (And Therese....you are SO ba-a-a-a-ad!)

    Anyway, I kept my threat and after the ayem in Boudoir, showered and segued into Chris' beautifully described

    and will spend the evening in the incomparable


    VIINTAGE EDP from a beautiful Wolf.

    Whadda day!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  24. #54
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I've been wanting to test this one for a while now - your comments make me even curiouser. Enjoy!
    Thanks! I've been enjoying it very much. I'm well into the far basenotes now, although the middle florals especially the ylang ylang are still sticking around, lush and persistent. The lasting power is excellent. I applied early this morning and it's still going strong as I type this.

    Do let us know your thoughts if and when you have a chance to test, please!
    "I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume." - Jacques Guerlain
    Currently wearing: SummerbyKenzo by Kenzo

  25. #55
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    What wonderful comments and descriptions ladies & gent's. Keep it up!

    My a.m. chypre was Numero Uno by Carthusia.

    Imagine a mossy/bergamot chypre base, but loaded with bitter orange and citrus instead of peach. It's got a very Mediterranean vibe, almost as if Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta was turned into a chypre. Very crisp. Extremely mossy. Not too over bearing sillage. Quite a compliment getter too.

    It also happens to be the one fragrance that my husband bought me that I actually like (some of his fragrance gifts have been real stinkers) so for that reason it's a special fragrance to me.

    My afternoon chypre was: Une Histoire de Chypre by Molinard (first time from a sample - thanks sofresh)

    I have had this sample for quite a while now...I was saving it for a special occasion and I decided today's SnS would be a good time. It supposedly, 'an olfactive ode to chypre in all of her fascinating glory' I remember when rtamara41 got all excited on this thread, about this scent, only to report later on that she was slightly underwhelmed by it after testing it.

    I see what she means.

    When one (like I) has access to chypres of such depth, complexity and emotion (like Mitsouko parfum) you approach a scent like UHdC with high expectations. While the opening was very unique - an almost oily, strange, medicinal, floral creaminess that later on segued into the bergamot / moss, it kind of fell apart in about 30 minutes. The diffusion of the scent also seemed very low for a chypre (a category of scents I love, in part, because they smell so good from afar rather than up close) which was also disappointing.

    I'm going to give it another full wearing later on - but for now I'm not impressed.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 8th March 2009 at 06:57 AM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  26. #56
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by chayaruchama View Post
    Just STOP me.
    Un-uh. Do it, do it, do it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    (wow a perfume joke, a nationalist joke and a really bad pun, all rolled into one!)
    Well, if anybody could accomplish such a feat ...

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    BNer mrclmind was quite educated on chypres and described it better than I ever could ...
    Thanks for sharing that with us.

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    This is an easy category for me. ... What does it smell like? Perfume. It smells like the time when women did not feel like they had to apologize for wearing fragrance. ... And when you dabbed the magical substance on your wrist, it would unfold into a myriad of aromas, reminding you again and again, throughout the day, that life is special, amazing, and enjoyable. It would call your attention to its presence, murmuring hints about your unique personality. This is exactly what a perfume is supposed to do, and why it will always be my favorite.
    Yes, yes, yes!

    OMG, UBU, you abandoned Angelique Noir to participate in SnS Sat.? Will wonders never cease?

    Hey there, exquisitely me, I've been meaning to mention I've noticed that you compose the most courteous, sweet-hearted posts. A belated welcoming hug from me to you. Oh, and don't feel badly about just about writing off a whole category of scent, that's how I feel about Orientals. Of course, there's always one out there that will defy the odds, so let's keep sampling, shall we?

    MoonDeva, it does my heart good to know Miss Balmain makes you a SwoonDeva.

    Today I could have reached for the big bottle of J.L. Scherrer or Molinard de Molinard or even broken into a rare sample of Coty Chypre or reveled in Profumo's Oak Moss, but Musse hit me with a wave of new items, so I chose to wear Vivience Westwood's Libertine for the first time, and WOW, what a beauty. And so feminine! My gosh, I think I sprouted a third ovary.

    Libertine: grapefruit, pineapple, passionfruit; lily-of-the-valley, honeysuckle, bergamot, rose; oak moss, patchouli, musk, amber. (Apply with a light hand.)

    Thank you, everybody for your fantastic contributions!
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  27. #57
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I almost forgot about SnS! Luckily, I caught it in time to apply for this evening. Hmmm, I think I'll go for one green chypre, which is more challenging to me (probably JL Scherrer), and then Diorella.

    BTW, here's the Great Chypre Debate of 2008 thread:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...avorite+chypre
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

    "One half of the world cannot understand the pleasures of the other." ~ Jane Austen

    Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume ~ Jean de Boufflers

  28. #58
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Holy Jeepers Creepers, Batman, I almost missed this Sniff n Speak. 'Chypre' is the holiest category of all in perfumery for yours truly. I have acquired quite a lot of them, and am always on the lookout for new or those I may have missed. I think one of the most beautiful new discoveries for me has been Amouage Jubilation 25 I am taken back to quality perfumes such as Caron, Patou, Guerlain- the old oakmoss gang.
    Notes are listed as:
    Top- Tarragon, Rose, Lemon, Ylang Ylang
    Heart- Davana, Labdanum, Rose, Frankincense
    Base- Amber, Musk, Vetiver, Myrrh, Patchouli
    Although the overall effect is artfully blended, it reminds one of a toned down version of Femme by Rochas. There is no cumin in AJ 25, so it must be the tarragon I'm getting. It has a spicey rose-on-skin scent as it dries, but keeps its animal claws sharp as it perches on my shoulder.

    Moondeva's list is extensive but there were a couple I like that I didn't see;
    Molinard de Molinard
    Givenchy III, reissue
    Lubin, Nuit de Longchamps
    Amouage, Jubilation 25
    Carven, Vert et Blanc - vintage
    Balmain, Ivoire
    Last edited by kumquat; 7th March 2009 at 11:16 PM.
    Currently wearing: Chamarr by Mona di Orio

  29. #59

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    The definition I've parsed together from Turin and from BN is that chypre contains the 'bergamot/oakmoss' combo, but usually also contains labdanum and/or patchouli as supporting notes. The mixture of oakmoss and bergamot creates a 'ghost note' that we recognize as a chypre. Therefore while fragrances without oakmoss can approximate chypres, they aren't technically chypres.

    BNer mrclmind was quite educated on chypres and described it better than I ever could.

    "It's really the bergamot mixed with the oakmoss that creates the classic accord we have come to know as chypre. With respect to Mr. Luca, labdanum is secondary to the creation of this accord, although it is almost always present in order to help round out the accord. A musical analogy would be that you can play the tonic and the third of a triad without the 5th and you would get the whole chord. Playing the fifth anchors it more, but it's not absolutely necessary.

    Pure Oak Moss absolute and steam distilled bergamot together create a type of "olifactory vibration" which results in type of "ghost note." Since Coty's Chypre is not available (you can still find decants, but this juice is very old), the one I would recommend as one of the reference chypres is Mitsouko. Mitsouko is basically a stripped down chypre with a peach note added. This peach note makes a huge difference in the whole effect and anchors the basic chypre structure in such a way as to make it much more wearable. Mitsouko in my opinion is one of the scents I could never tire of smelling, it's just that good. A couple of masculine chypres of note are Channel pour Monsieur (original formula, not concentree) and Monsieur Givenchy. If you smell these three you can get the idea of the basic chypre accord and will recognize it when you smell it.
    "

    See this thread for more info: http://community.basenotes.net/showt...t=Chypre+genre

    I believe I've changed my mind. No more Givenchy III EdP. I'm trying to decide between vintage Dior Diorling EdT (leather chypre) or Guerlain Parure EdT (rose chypre).
    Thank you bbBD for pulling up that enlightening thread. I have a much clearer picture of what a chypre is, now, and I am going to explore other classics in the gnere if I can get my hands on some samples.

    My Mitsouko is going strong after many hours. The initial blast of peachy freshness has intermittantly given way to powdery green and warmed bergamot. This stuff curls my toes it's so good. I think of Mitsouko as a classic, re-read and well-loved book. Wherever you open it up, be it on page 25 or 250, you are both comforted and delighted by the words written on the page. I don't think there's another fragrance that I've tried that has so many nuances for my nose to explore!

  30. #60

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I am having quite a Day. Took a shower and scrubbed off the first four chypres. Now sampling these two:

    Estee Lauder PRIVATE COLLECTION (again, thanks to Kumquat!)

    Jean Patou 1000 (thanks to Taolady!)

    These are interesting to try side by side. The top notes of 1000 are fantastic, as is the middle stage of the PC. These are going to take some study, but I already understand why both have quite a following here on BN!

    I am feeling especially happy today that I discovered this place of fine and fragrant 'fumistas!

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