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  1. #61
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    Wink Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Haunani, I am so glad you could use all those samples for this SnS. I think it's a hoot that you have been waiting , kind of fearing the 'Green Monster'

    I hope you like them as much as I do. I think I had a real epiphany (one of many) when I re-wore Mitsouko, only it was EDP for the first time. I put it on & I suddenly knew why this stuff had such a huge reputation. It has everything. It takes you on a journey & is never boring. It spoils you for other frags. They start to seem as though they don't have as much going on. Complex scents are just more entertaining. And you are off on a search for the next frag that's almost as good.
    Last edited by kumquat; 8th March 2009 at 08:58 PM.

  2. #62

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Haunani, I am so glad you could use all those samples for this SnS. I think it's a hoot that you have been waiting , kind of fearing the 'Green Monster'

    I hope you like them as much as I do. I think I had a real epiphany (one of many) when I re-wore Mitsouko, only it was EDP for the first time. I put it on & I suddenly knew why this stuff had such a hugh reputation. It has everything. It takes you on a journey & is never boring. It spoils you for other frags. They start to seem as though they don't have as much going on. Complex scents are just more entertaining. And you are off on a search for the next frag that's almost as good.
    You are right that I was a little fearful. And here I am a strong, independent grown woman!

    I haven't sought out a Mitsouko sample yet. Talk about a fraidy cat!

    Again, thank you for the educational and fragrant gifts!!!

  3. #63
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Well I admit, I'm still confused! So many definitions, so many frags called chypres that I don't understand why. The experts don't even agree when they define it and classify scents. oh well ...

    I'm wearing Yvresse Legere today. I think this counts, although there is not citrus or bergamot. I find YL sparkling and Spring-ish and fun! The fruit and floral notes are well blended, just when I think one note is louder than than the others, the scent changes slightly and something else becomes more prominent. Now, hours later, it has settled down to what I think is the blend of the oakmoss and patchouli. It's hard to put my finger on it, but it smells "classic." It smells "perfume-y" and rich and wonderful! (not to steal tdem1961's words, but those are the perfect words to describe the drydown of YL too.)

    notes include: nectarine flower, blackcurrant leaf, rose, mimosa, white lilac, vetiver, oakmoss and patchouli
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  4. #64

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by shadesofbleu View Post
    Well I admit, I'm still confused! So many definitions, so many frags called chypres that I don't understand why. The experts don't even agree when they define it and classify scents. oh well ...
    I feel the same way...

    I wore Mitsouko EDP for the first time. At least this one I know is a chypre for sure. And I liked it more than EDT and even got some sort of compliment. But I still don't feel conforable wearing it.

  5. #65

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm LESS confused than before today, thanks to some very informative posts earlier in the day, and the article by Helg at Perfume Shrine.

    What I wish for: By the March of 2010 SnS I hope to own and love a few more chypres, and I hope to have sniffed many over the preceding 12 months. As a corollary, I hope to wear something OTHER than 'reference chypre' Mitsouko to the 2010 chypre SnS!

  6. #66

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I will have to read the article referenced above by Lizzie J. I am still puzzled and refuse to accept anything to be a chypre unless it contains a top of bergamot, a floral, fruit, green, or what ever heart, and a base of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. I do realize that some of the basenotes can be in the heart. I don't have anything in my wardrobe that fits the bill in this 'classic' sense. I do have a few that contain at least 3 out 4. One of which is Azuree-which I wore today. I was too busy to pay close attention to it so I will wear it again tomorrow...I think. Also, I think I will order Chypre de Coty, Unspoken, and Knize Forest.
    "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel."

  7. #67

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm no chypre expert and was just as confused as many of you are expressing. However, I do feel I have a handle on 'what is a chypre' - or at least on how to identify the 'chypre ghost note'.

    Prompted by the thread to which I linked before, I got samples of vintage Givenchy III and Pour Monsieur (I already had Mistouko). There is a distinctive olfactory quality all three share - a sort of 'mossy fizziness' (I'm not good at articulating it), and that quality is also present in chypres like Derby, Diorling, and Chanel Cristalle EdT [side note - I'm surprised Cristalle wasn't mentioned yet, it's one of my favorite chypres, and a great citrus/floral). Likewise there was a similar structure and development in all of these. I then acquired a sample of vintage Chypre de Coty, which made it pretty easy to recognize the 'chypre' in all of the fragrances I mentioned.

    Interestingly, Chypre de Coty and vintage Givenchy III smell remarkably alike.... in fact I'd go so far as to say that if you have one, it would be redundant to have another, and if you know what Givenchy III smells like, its' the functional equivalent of knowing what Coty smells like for identifying chypres.

    I don't have a tremendous amount of vintage Givenchy III, but between my EdT and EdP bottles I certainly have enough to make at least a few samples. If anyone wants to explore the chypre thing further and would like a G-III sample, just PM me with your address.

  8. #68

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    My wife, the lovely Gabrielle Rose, joined us today in Mitsouko.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  9. #69
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by analavande View Post
    I will have to read the article referenced above by Lizzie J. I am still puzzled and refuse to accept anything to be a chypre unless it contains a top of bergamot, a floral, fruit, green, or what ever heart, and a base of oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. I do realize that some of the basenotes can be in the heart. I don't have anything in my wardrobe that fits the bill in this 'classic' sense. I do have a few that contain at least 3 out 4. One of which is Azuree-which I wore today. I was too busy to pay close attention to it so I will wear it again tomorrow...I think. Also, I think I will order Chypre de Coty, Unspoken, and Knize Forest.
    analavande, I saw you listed the notes for Azuree in SotD--amber almost always contains labdanum, so all your criteria are actually covered

  10. #70
    exquisitely me's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I've had such a time working my way through Mitsouko, I never made it to my backup plans. This is ... by far the most confusing smell for me, and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it.

    The opening was one roadblock of an accord, and the first time I smelled it, my brain came as far as "old perfume" and no further. But this has happened before, and once I break through roadblocks, the journey beyond is usually worth the effort!

    Citrus shines through that bizarre unidentifiable mix. And ... BREAD?? No.... it can't be... but wow, that's definitely a yeasty, sourdough bread. If I were confused before, this sent me over the edge! What in the world is that doing in there?? I'll wait it out.... then its soapy citrusy bread and old perfume... I cannot detect even a whiff of the promised peach. Quel dommage... Soap comes to the forefront, with a touch of a fruity sourness (not peach). An herbal smell too... all of this with that ever-present "old perfume" mix. And something spicy. Finally this settles as spicy soap with the lightest hint of citrus.

    But if I sniff the skin directly, that obnoxious bread smell is still there.

    WHAT THE HECK?!?! This perfume is legendary! These BNers LOVE it!! No one smells any of the stuff I am... and my nasal passages actually feel irritated, like they've been burned... I've never had that happen before...

    I'm afraid my body physically rejects Mitsouko.

    Brielle, I loved your description!! (Sounds terrible, but I appreciated the imagery )

    Nukapai
    , your description of 31 Rue Cambon, was hilarious, disgusting, and actually helped me understand why I reacted so badly to it in the first place. LOL Thanks for putting words to my confused associations.

    moondeva, wonderful post! I cracked up at the bit about selling body parts for a bottle.

    Haunani, I was scared too. I'm glad I'm not alone in my chyrpe-phobia.

    Hey lizzie_j, I completely identify with the maturity and perfume thing. I'm struggling to understand the classic favorites. But its wonderful that Mitsouko worked out for you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Hey there, exquisitely me, I've been meaning to mention I've noticed that you compose the most courteous, sweet-hearted posts. A belated welcoming hug from me to you. Oh, and don't feel badly about just about writing off a whole category of scent, that's how I feel about Orientals. Of course, there's always one out there that will defy the odds, so let's keep sampling, shall we?
    Aww shucks Quarry... ya got me blushing. Thanks for the support though, I was feeling a lil' bourgeois for the prejudice. I refuse to write off an entire category so early in my perfume education... there's still so much out there... Yes indeed, keep sampling!!

  11. #71

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    EM: I get a definite nutty note in Mitsouko (which I suspect together with the powdery characteristics might read as bread to you). And it does smell like old perfume, but to me, in a good sense. Old-fashioned and classically beautiful; the difference between Mitsouko and many of the modern perfumes is like the difference between a complex oil painting and a cartoon.Both can be highly creative, artistic and beautiful, but the oil painting can feel a little heavy or dated or hard to get into, whereas the cartoon is immediately accessible and fun.

    I hope the juice you were trying is in good shape; sounds like it may even have started to turn.

  12. #72

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    TANG: I hope I haven't ruined 31RC for you; it's probably mostly a whiff of labdanum I'm getting in the beginning, but I would be willing to bet there are some properly animalic notes hiding in the formula. I'd be very interested to get VM's and Purplebird's take on this.

    It took me years to figure out that I didn't hate tuberose; that in fact I just hated a few specific scents with it in - because of what it had been blended with and how the perfume had been put together to bring out my least favourite characteristics of the flower (a sort of gets-to-the-back-of-your-throat sickly, powdery sweetness). It can turn to decomposing, sweet flowers with sugar on top on my skin very quickly - or go extremely mushroomy. Yet several of my favourite scents today have tuberose as a key player. The accords work in the context of these specific perfumes and play nice on my skin. I even composed a tuberose and black tea skin-scent last summer, which was really fun to do - it allowed me to begin to understand what it's like to work with the material and where the line is for me.

  13. #73
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Well I'm really glad I wore Miss Balmain yesterday because I finally 'got' her.
    I had always been put off by the green, spiky topnotes and - and this is the important bit, I think - had somehow always got a bit of perfume on my clothes while spritzing.
    By chance, yesterday I sprayed directly onto my bare forearm and didn't put on anything with sleeves all day. So I got to smell Miss Balmain as she developed on bare skin (and a day later, she's still very faintly there). I finally got to smell the leather, which was wonderful, but by bedtime; my word! I discovered why the oakmoss-rich L'Air de Rien is compared to well-worn knickers. On my skin, Miss Balmain produced exactly the same effect. It was remarkable. (And very good.)

    Who knew that thanks to Basenotes I'd even be learning to love oakmoss?
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  14. #74
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I was going to mention Rosine's Une Folie de Rose, but now can simply concur -- Chypre is my holy grail, and I own most of the scents described here so far (in decant anyway). Folie was a revelation to me. It is absolutely a Chypre, with the bergamot bite and real oakmoss, as listed on the package, but with a rose mid note to swoon over. It's gorgeous.
    Olfacta
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  15. #75

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    I finally got to smell the leather, which was wonderful, but by bedtime; my word! I discovered why the oakmoss-rich L'Air de Rien is compared to well-worn knickers. On my skin, Miss Balmain produced exactly the same effect. It was remarkable. (And very good.)

    Who knew that thanks to Basenotes I'd even be learning to love oakmoss?
    Brilliant! We had a well-worn knicker-fest yesterday.

  16. #76
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Nukapai View Post
    Brilliant! We had a well-worn knicker-fest yesterday.
    In my case my 'well-worn' knickers where in the bottom of my Birkin along with the expensive violet scented face powder I spilled a while ago...
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

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  17. #77
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    For me, vintage Givenchy III is the love child of Coty Chypre + Balmain Vent Vert (vintage); a perfect union! Givenchy III is the morning and Coty Chypre is the balmy afternoon.

    Gad I love these scents!!
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  18. #78
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Nukapai View Post
    EM: I get a definite nutty note in Mitsouko (which I suspect together with the powdery characteristics might read as bread to you). And it does smell like old perfume, but to me, in a good sense. Old-fashioned and classically beautiful; the difference between Mitsouko and many of the modern perfumes is like the difference between a complex oil painting and a cartoon.Both can be highly creative, artistic and beautiful, but the oil painting can feel a little heavy or dated or hard to get into, whereas the cartoon is immediately accessible and fun.

    I hope the juice you were trying is in good shape; sounds like it may even have started to turn.
    Unlikely that it has turned since I know the source

    I get alot of nuttyness, too, but I don't get the milky quality that some people have commented on.

  19. #79
    exquisitely me's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Unlikely that it has turned since I know the source

    I get alot of nuttyness, too, but I don't get the milky quality that some people have commented on.
    Yeah, I don't think the juice is at fault here. I really do think my body chemistry reacted badly to it. The bread smell may have something nutty to it, but this had a distinct sourness. My nasal cavities went from mildly irritated to actual burning... I thought I might be coming down with something, but an hour after I'd washed it off, my nose felt fine.

    So I'm comparing houses with types trying to find a pattern.

    Guerlain Mitsouko chypre - painful burning
    Guerlain Shalimar not a chypre - no problem
    Chanel No. 5 not a chypre - painful burning
    Chanel No. 19 chypre - no problem
    Chanel 31 Rue Cambon chypre - sourness, but no irritation.
    Bulgari Black chypre - irritation, but not quite burning

    So no pattern that I can see. Anybody else have this issue? Or know what's happening?
    Last edited by exquisitely me; 8th March 2009 at 03:20 PM.

  20. #80
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    E.M., I also have some sensitivities. Normally, Mitsouko does not bother me, but yesterday I had some burning too. Oakmoss sometimes makes me a little stuffy, but the burning sensation is quite different and is accompanied by an ammonia smell. In my case, it is usually fougeres that do it to me, so I am suspecting an evergreen note. Yours seems a little different, though--maybe it is aldehydes. Both No.5 and Mitsouko have them (although somebody mentioned that the C-14 "aldehyde" is actually a lactone). I think Bulgari Black has lactones in it, too--it has a milky quality which is characteristic.

  21. #81
    exquisitely me's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Thank goodness there's a pattern!! It seems to make sense too... Now I can know what to watch out for... or at least what notes to test with caution. Thanks Asha!

  22. #82
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Question Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Unlikely that it has turned since I know the source

    I get alot of nuttyness, too, but I don't get the milky quality that some people have commented on.
    What type were you trying? Vintage? EDT , parfum?

  23. #83
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by PB101 View Post
    I was going to mention Rosine's Une Folie de Rose, but now can simply concur -- Chypre is my holy grail, and I own most of the scents described here so far (in decant anyway). Folie was a revelation to me. It is absolutely a Chypre, with the bergamot bite and real oakmoss, as listed on the package, but with a rose mid note to swoon over. It's gorgeous.
    I concur! Une Folie is my favorite Rosine & a gorgeous chypre!

  24. #84
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I'm not very good with notes and the development with them,so I will write a review of Miss Dior without much attention to the notes Miss Dior is a scent I recently bought and I really love it! People say it's sharp and green in the topnotes.I can relate to that somehow,but to me it's more green than sharp. Gradually something makes it warm up and the effect is a nostalgic and slightly round feel. Miss Dior is a classy and elegant fragrance with a warm,forestlike smell eventually. Being outdoors with a bunch of friends in the early autumn comes to mind. In short,I feel like I've discovered a gem.

  25. #85

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Unlikely that it has turned since I know the source

    I get alot of nuttyness, too, but I don't get the milky quality that some people have commented on.
    Oh good - sometimes you don't know based on a text-based description of someone's impressions

    And I like the nuttyness a lot. Oh and speaking of "bready" - one of the TM Miroirs scents smells of toasted panini/ciabatta!

  26. #86

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Nukapai View Post
    TANG: I hope I haven't ruined 31RC for you....
    Not at all! Part of what I love about perfume discussion is how one fragrance presents such different things to different people. It's fascinating!

  27. #87

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    There seems to be quite a lot of opinions as to what Chypre really is, and i have to agree to some point that most of the fragrances discussed here are at least in part, Chypre.
    For me, that means that most of these fragrances have a base of oakmoss (or the chemical equivalent that's fashionable at the time) and a rich combination of woody ingredients, with a heavy dose of "green" notes, be that galbanum or labdanum.

    The problem rests, i think, in the difficulty when trying to classify some of the typically called Chypres, that for all reasons have been in that category and that nowadays may fall under another one just because the original formula was changed and tweaked.
    Let's take a very obvious one, say, Miss Balmain. The vintage formula was on all counts, a chypre, given the heavy base of oakmoss and the new formula is not so much a chypre but a green-floral that has lost some of the original charm. I'm not saying it's a bad scent now, but it surely has changed.

    And now let's take the proposed No19 by Chanel, it smells like a chypre, but technically it's not, since there is no heavy use of leathers and no oakmoss or patchouli at the base. But it's so green, like a lot of chypres are (Luder's Alliage, Armani's Armani, Eau d'Orlane, EL's Private Collection, etc) that is smells like a chypre.

    In my opinion, Chypre can be all sort of things -which would not make things easier- but they can fall under the fruity, green, woody, animalic and fresh subcategories.
    The current trend now is the "new chypres" as i like to call it, that includes the more heavily base flower and fruity chypres, that have a chypre base (with the new non-oakmoss smell alike) and a denser use of Florals, the most used being lily of the valley, jasmine and rose (think Chypre d'Orient by Molinard or even Givenchy's Amarige Mariage), and then the Fruity chypres, with plum , peach and various tropical fruits. A good example of this cat. is Soir de Lune by Sisley.

    So what am I wearing today?
    The softly animalic, very woody and butch but very fresh and "continental" Paloma Picasso's Paloma Picasso from 1984 (EDT original formula). Veyr wearable for a man.
    Last edited by castorpollux; 8th March 2009 at 07:38 PM.

  28. #88
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    So late to the game! I was unable to post my SnS yesterday. I wore two of the "modern" (i.e. post-Mitsouko) chypres.

    I started out in Knowing (1988, Estee Lauder, Perfumer: Jean Kerleo) which is often classified as a Floral Chypre. The notes from 2 sources:
    Top: mimosa, pittosporum, sweet rose, tuberose, plum, melon
    Middle: laurel, clove, jasmine, lily, iris
    Base: sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, amber, musk and civet.

    My impressions: Mossy, deep, earthy, smooth pluminess. If it were a color, it would be deep, garnet-red. If a fabric, it would be a velvet comforter with corded tassles. If a wine, it would taste like a cabernet. If a food, it could be a rich, meat-stew or Indian Madras chicken.

    My second scent was Cristalle (1974, Chanel, Perfumer: Henri Robert), a Citrus chypre.
    Top notes: bergamot, Sicilian lemon, tangerine, basil, cumin, hyacinth, peach, honeysuckle
    Middle notes: jasmine, melon, narcissus, cyclamen, muguet, daffodil, ylang-ylang
    Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, musk, civet, patchouli and sandal

    My impressions: Citrus headiness tempered with sweet fruit and flowers. Sparkling, radiant lightness. Moss, vetiver and oakmoss add a sharp, herbal-vegetal edginess, creating facets in the crystal. If it were a color, it would be lemon yellow. If a fabric, it would be voile, tulle or organza. If a wine, a sparkling Riesling. If a food, I image sorbet.
    Last edited by pomander; 8th March 2009 at 07:51 PM.

  29. #89
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    What type were you trying? Vintage? EDT , parfum?
    It is newest release EDP, very fresh from the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas (purchased 11/08).

  30. #90
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by castorpollux View Post

    And now let's take the proposed No19 by Chanel, it smells like a chypre, but technically it's not, since there is no heavy use of leathers and no oakmoss or patchouli at the base. But it's so green, like a lot of chypres are (Luder's Alliage, Armani's Armani, Eau d'Orlane, EL's Private Collection, etc) that is smells like a chypre.
    No.19 indeed has oakmoss. I have the new release EDT, and it states oakmoss in the ingredients. I have vintage parfum and the oakmoss is clearly detectable even though it does not have an ingredients list on the box.

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    It is newest release EDP, very fresh from the Guerlain boutique in Las Vegas (purchased 11/08).
    Ok, good. I was wondering about this bread note. I'm not sure I've ever noticed that. I think the EDP is the best, richer than the EDT (modern). I think the secret to these may be the dry-down. They are so beautiful when they have a chance to mellow. What I love about them is they have so much life and depth. There's always a snappy catch, or hook to hold the scent and keep it from being too sweet or dull. For me, the successful chypre has a slightly tangy, sharp green sap element that keeps it edgy.

    I wonder if those who are missing the peach are expecting it to be sweet, because it isn't. It's spiced, sappy & woody. It doesn't really jump out, either, it is artfully intertwined. The parfum is the smoothest of all. The vintage (parfum) is significantly deeper, almost like a balsamic peachy wine.
    Last edited by kumquat; 8th March 2009 at 08:53 PM.

  32. #92

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    No.19 indeed has oakmoss. I have the new release EDT, and it states oakmoss in the ingredients. I have vintage parfum and the oakmoss is clearly detectable even though it does not have an ingredients list on the box.
    No.19 has gone a mandatory reformulation as well. Back in the 70s it had oakmoss but since the implementation of the new laws, oakmoss has been banned for fragrance use in the EU. By the end of 2005, most if not all all fragrances have been reformulated.
    Any fragrance that states that has oakmoss is breaking the law within the union.
    The old formula has a dark green colour, and the new one is lighter and yellower with a light green tint.
    The official new notes are (by Chanel, Paris): galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, leather and musk.

    Maybe the new one has less than 0,1% moss and they stll want to call it oakmoss instead? That being the case, the common sense in the fragrance world is to add as "ingredient" any substance that has more than 5% concentration in the original formula (not inlcuding alcohol).

    Coincidentally, The IFF now sells a couple of oakmoss smell alikes: one being Iso Butyl Quinoline. It's been used in many scents that used oakmoss before.
    Last edited by castorpollux; 8th March 2009 at 09:04 PM.

  33. #93
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Casorpollux...so, I'm still not sure how you can say it is not a chypre due to no oakmoss. I suppose you can split hairs and say that the new No.19 is not and the old one is.

    Anyway, there must be some reason other than oakmoss content as to why No.19 is not considered a chypre.

    Incidentally, I have a very new bottle of Mitsouko, and it also states "tree moss" in the ingredient list.
    Last edited by Asha; 8th March 2009 at 09:19 PM.

  34. #94
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    I wonder if those who are missing the peach are expecting it to be sweet, because it isn't. It's spiced, sappy & woody. It doesn't really jump out, either, it is artfully intertwined. The parfum is the smoothest of all. The vintage (parfum) is significantly deeper, almost like a balsamic peachy wine.
    I agree on the peach note--it is more like a dried peach than a fresh, juicy one. However, I must say the peach is not terribly prominent in the EDT even though I do smell it there too.

  35. #95
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I am making this a Chypre weekend so I am wearing Cabochard today.
    Evenstar

  36. #96

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Hang on, let's get this right - as far as I understand oakmoss has not been banned; its use is just severely restricted. It is not toxic, but it is a known skin sensitiser.

  37. #97
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I have trouble with the new #19. Soooo sad! I'm bummed. I just discovered this and they ruin it. Luckily I scrounged 2 older EDP's from flea bay. That formula is smoky, dry leather. A bit like Cabochard but a little more floral & green.
    Last edited by kumquat; 8th March 2009 at 10:08 PM.

  38. #98

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I wore La Via del Profumo's Oakmoss yesterday and today. Soft wonderful oakmoss and not much else.

  39. #99

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I had a mini breakthrough earlier today! Was doing my usual..sniffing fragrance while watching a movie (Watchmen, for the SECOND time--it's a little odd sniffing little vials of perfume while blood and guts are flying but it works for me!) and I actually identified a fragrance that smelled, perhaps at least in a teeny tiny way, like a chypre! Good grief! It was the newly reformulated L de Lubin, which luckyscent describes as having a 'chypre vibe." This was a thrilling moment for me and I just had to share!

  40. #100
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Lizzie, that is exciting! I totally agree with you on L de Lubin. I think it smells alot like Diorella which IS a chypre
    Last edited by Asha; 9th March 2009 at 01:08 AM.

  41. #101
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    I'd be glad to.

    Here's a few:
    Derby
    Chanel pour Monsieur
    Tiffany for Men
    Giorgio for Men
    Devin
    Macassar
    Aramis
    Bulgari Black
    Town & Country

    Thank you very much, now I have an idea of what a chypre smells like. I've tried Aramis and Bvlgari Black

  42. #102

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I realize that this discussion is probably over but, if not, would someone please explain to me how this fragrance can be classified as a chypre? Thanks.
    Bvlgari Black
    * Top Notes
    * Lapsang Souchang Tea, Bergamot, Jasmine.
    * Middle Notes
    * Cedar, Sandalwood, Leather.
    * Base Notes
    * Amber, Musk, Vanilla.
    "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel."

  43. #103
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Frankly, that is one I don't consider a chypre, either. It is a tea scent & there is a floral aspect with it. It is some form of floral/oriental maybe?
    Last edited by kumquat; 12th March 2009 at 03:21 PM.

  44. #104
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by analavande View Post
    I realize that this discussion is probably over but, if not, would someone please explain to me how this fragrance can be classified as a chypre? Thanks.
    Bvlgari Black
    * Top Notes
    * Lapsang Souchang Tea, Bergamot, Jasmine.
    * Middle Notes
    * Cedar, Sandalwood, Leather.
    * Base Notes
    * Amber, Musk, Vanilla.
    I don't consider it a chypre and Susan Irvine has it categorised as a smoky Oriental. May be it is one of those "new chypres" whose only real validation is that they have an earthy (sometimes mossy) woody powdery drydown....
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  45. #105
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Moondeva, what is up with these so called "New Chypres"? Those I've tried have been a big disappointment. What is the supposed justification or classification for these concoctions? Do you know?

  46. #106

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Kumquat and Moondeva,

    Thank you. Neither do I consider BLV Black (or many of the 'new chypres' ) to be a chypre. In fact, I have trouble accepting anything that does not fit the traditional criteria. At the very least a fragrance should have a bergamot or citrus top with oakmoss, and/or amber/labdanum/patchouli in the base. That's just my opinion, of course.

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Frankly, that is one I don't consider a chypre, either. It is a tea scent & there is a floral aspect with it. It is some form of floral/oriental maybe?
    Quote Originally Posted by moondeva View Post
    I don't consider it a chypre and Susan Irvine has it categorised as a smoky Oriental. May be it is one of those "new chypres" whose only real validation is that they have an earthy (sometimes mossy) woody powdery drydown....
    "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel."

  47. #107
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I had no idea Bvlgari Black was supposed to be considered a chypre. I have both Amarige Mariage and Narciso Rodriguez for Her edp, and I don't understand the "new chypre" thing much at all. "Chypre" I get easily. I few days ago I sampled 24 Faubourg and immediately said, "Ah, it's a chypre!" I don't see labdanum or oakmoss in the notes, but I don't put much stock into listed notes these days anyway. However, when something smells like a chypre you just know, you know? Caleche, Knowing, Safari, Paloma Picasso, Agent Provocateur, No 19-- they all have a common vibe going on that says "chypre" to me.

    Lots of people are deathly allergic to peanuts, but you don't hear about world-wide bans on the use of peanuts in food preparation. Grr.
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  48. #108

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    It's no wonder that the chypre category is a big mystery for relative newbies like yours truly! Here are three of my favorite fragrances that I saw on a long list of chypres somewhere online. What do you think? Do they qualify as modern chypres?

    Miller Harris FLEURS DE SEL: Red Thyme Oil, Rosemary, Clary Sage, Iris Nobilis, Narcissus, Rose, Ambrette Seed, Woods, Vetiver, Moss, Leather

    Miller Harris TERRE D'IRIS: Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Southern Herbs, Rosemary, Clary Sage, Orange Flowers, Rose, Patchouli, Tree Moss, Fir Balsam, Iris

    Keiko Mecheri UME: Persimmon, Peach Leaves, Citrus, Wisteria, Peony, Jasmine, Osmanthus, Hinoki, Mahogany, Moss

    I'm thinking the last two qualify, based on the notes. The FdS doesn't have the (apparently) requisite citrus. On the other hand, it seems to have some of the feel and character of some of the classic chypres that I was lucky enough to try last weekend.

    Comments?

  49. #109
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I think the fruity chypre category (other than Mitsouko, of course) is one of the more difficult ones. Smelling something mossy and green or mossy and leathery is very obvious, but mossy and fruity doesn't always come across to my nose. And I think fruity chypres are where most of the "modern" ones are aiming.

    Perhaps also, if some of the new chypres use synthetic oakmoss they will be unrecognizable as chypres. Synthetic oakmoss smells NOTHING like real.

  50. #110
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    I just received Mitsouko edt in the mail yesterday. It was my first blind buy, and let me just say that now I know what all the fuss is about! Love it.

    It reminds me very much of the Caron base.
    Last edited by Sunnyfunny; 13th March 2009 at 04:02 AM.

  51. #111

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by castorpollux View Post
    No.19 has gone a mandatory reformulation as well. Back in the 70s it had oakmoss but since the implementation of the new laws, oakmoss has been banned for fragrance use in the EU. By the end of 2005, most if not all all fragrances have been reformulated.
    Any fragrance that states that has oakmoss is breaking the law within the union.
    The old formula has a dark green colour, and the new one is lighter and yellower with a light green tint.
    The official new notes are (by Chanel, Paris): galbanum, hyacinth, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, iris, vetiver, sandalwood, leather and musk.

    Maybe the new one has less than 0,1% moss and they stll want to call it oakmoss instead? That being the case, the common sense in the fragrance world is to add as "ingredient" any substance that has more than 5% concentration in the original formula (not inlcuding alcohol).

    Coincidentally, The IFF now sells a couple of oakmoss smell alikes: one being Iso Butyl Quinoline. It's been used in many scents that used oakmoss before.
    Thanks for this info on the reformulation, C.

    Chanel 19 seems to be an especially tricky case, but I'm trying to understand where the use of real oak moss fits in in describing a perfume today. I wish i had asked about his 2 days ago at the Osmotheuqe. I have a 3-hour perfume course tomorrow morning, I'll see fi I can find out more.

    These are the questions that come to mind:

    -If oakmoss were completely banned, and if only real oak moss counted, wouldn't that mean there is no such thing as a chypre made after the law took effect?

    -If there is no oak moss in a perfume--does it matter, as long as the oakmoss scent has been recreated?

    ---and If we don't count the synthetic or otherwise recreated oak moss note, then likewise, wouldn't we have to say that Diroissomo is not a muguet?
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 13th March 2009 at 08:36 AM.
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  52. #112

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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 7, 2009 ★★★ Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    Thanks for this info on the reformulation, C.

    Chanel 19 seems to be an especially tricky case, but I'm trying to understand where the use of real oak moss fits in in describing a perfume today. I wish i had asked about his 2 days ago at the Osmotheuqe. I have a 3-hour perfume course tomorrow morning, I'll see if can find out more.

    These are the questions that come to mind:

    -If oakmoss were completely banned, and if only real oak moss counted, wouldn't that mean there is no such thing as a chypre made after the law took effect?

    -If there is no oak moss in a perfume--does it matter, as long as the oakmoss scent has been recreated?

    ---and If we don't count the synthetic or otherwise recreated oak moss note, then likewise, wouldn't we have to say that Diroissomo is not a muguet?
    Please do let us know what you find out. Especially the newbies(myself included) who are struggling so to get a grasp. Thanks
    "Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel."

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