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  1. #61
    Fleurine's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Quote Originally Posted by le mouchoir de monsieur View Post
    [/I]. Here we have one of the last examples of perfume as Art, not product. 1000 died so young because, as Cristobal Balenciaga memorably said upon announcing the shuttering of his house in 1968, "The World is No Longer Fit."
    Le MdM- I popped open that little BNIB sealed jade 7.5ml flaconette two weeks ago together with BrianChambers and KevinGuyer from BN. My first thought was, literally, "I have to start hoarding this." You definitely guided me to the right bottle. You know when I read the notes of 1000, it reads like a what not to wear list for me: vetiver, oakmoss, violet, civet, all these things, notes I tend to specifically avoid...yet combined in this whiskey colored elixir they are transformed into something I can not only wear but of which cannot get enough. And the presentation, with the velvet box, ribbon and hand signed tag speak of another era (1972???). One more thing you were right about, the parfum is waaaay better than the EdT (even in vintage).

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  2. #62
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Quote Originally Posted by le mouchoir de monsieur View Post
    Jean Kerleo worked full time on the orchestration of 1000 for almost ten years. When the final comp was approved, it came to light that there was not enough natural Osmanthus being produced in China to guarantee fluency in fabrication, as 1000's primary innovation was the framing of this flower: This is why, from 1972 up until the mid 80's, each flacon of 1000 was hand registered and numbered. Patou was forced to purchase hectares of land in China, and to build a facility to distill the essence of this flower keeping up with the standard of quality that was its hallmark. The Osmanthus flower blooms and withers in one hour, once per year. The distillation process had to be conducted during this specific time slot, and, most importantly, enough "First Matter" had to be obtained. Creating 1000 was a daunting assignment. Patou had JOY, "The Perfume of the XXe Century" to contend with: 1000 had to live up to that singular legacy. Thus, a "parfum de fourrure" was created, as previously, there were none on the Patou menu. ("parfum de fourrure" = a perfume designed to scent fur. The house of Weil made a specialty of these, being a furrier) No expense was spared to create this landmark fragrance. As it panned out, not much money was ever made by Patou on sales of 1000. To the very end, (1999) only a certain quantity could be produced yearly, simply because the essences involved were so diverse, and so rare, and there were so many, that much toil and funds were required to obtain them. Here we have an example of what would never happen today: An house producing a fragrance that, from the get go, would not conceivably by profitable. Here we have one of the last examples of perfume as Art, not product. 1000 died so young because, as Cristobal Balenciaga memorably said upon announcing the shuttering of his house in 1968, "The World is No Longer Fit."
    Thanks for writing all this down. this makes me so sad. These days are long gone. I had forgotten about the osmanthus. It is so gorgeous! My favorite thing about this perfume.

  3. #63

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    I just wanted to add my name to the list of disappointed perfume lovers here. I must say that I had totally failed to connect the dots when I saw ages ago that 1000 wasn't on the anemic Patou website anymore. I will cherish my last bottle and put Edwardian Bouquet on my test list. I feel silly to have entertained the idea that the new owner would reissue Eau de Patou which I am missing terribly ... I passed by the Paris shop a few months ago and it looked strange (withperfumes owned by the mother company also on display...) and a bit sad. Such a great house. And I thought what they did to Nina Ricci was the worst. Well ...

  4. #64

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    the version of Patou's 1000 thats been selling the past decade is greatly inferior to the real version anyways, I'm not crying anymore now than I would have been in '99

    It is truly a great scent though, I have got on sealed ounce of the pure perfume that should get me through the next few years

    I'll use it sparingly, keep it light tight, and put some heavier than air gas on it after each opening of the bottle!

  5. #65

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    I have come across this article: Joy, 1000 and Sublime available again in Australia.
    http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/nat...-1226509635728

    While further reformulations may be disappointing (don't know what re-released means exactly) at least they are not gone entirely... The Patou is still under construction.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    It's available at Nieman Marcus too.

  7. #67

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Knowing the original and the later reformulated (diluted but still great) 1000, this is almost guaranteed to be a disaster I dare say.

  8. #68

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    The problem, as I understand it, is that jasmine grandiflorum absolute has been restricted to less than 1% of the total fragrance and jasmine sambac to 4% maximum by the IFRA. In a jasmine-heavy fragrance like Joy, for all practical purposes, that would prohibit making all concentrations stronger than Eau de Toilette or possibly even Eau de Cologne in order to comply. So, of course, the company had to replace real jasmine absolute with synthetics. It is all they can do under the circumstances.

    I ask myself, after centuries of women wearing natural jasmine perfume, is it really that allergenic? Or has it only become allergenic after we developed hexane extraction for absolutes instead of using steam-distilled essential oils? Not knowing the history of production methods, I cannot guess.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    The problem, as I understand it, is that jasmine grandiflorum absolute has been restricted to less than 1% of the total fragrance and jasmine sambac to 4% maximum by the IFRA. In a jasmine-heavy fragrance like Joy, for all practical purposes, that would prohibit making all concentrations stronger than Eau de Toilette or possibly even Eau de Cologne in order to comply. So, of course, the company had to replace real jasmine absolute with synthetics. It is all they can do under the circumstances.

    I ask myself, after centuries of women wearing natural jasmine perfume, is it really that allergenic? Or has it only become allergenic after we developed hexane extraction for absolutes instead of using steam-distilled essential oils? Not knowing the history of production methods, I cannot guess.
    I don't think it's very allergenic at all, and they're overreacting. I could be wrong.

    That makes me sad about Joy- I was going to try to sample some because I *suspect* it may be the perfume my mom used to have when I was really little. I could be wrong though, and by now, it could be totally different anyway.

  10. #70

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Eau-de-1000.jpg

    Eau-de-1000-velveteen-box.jpg

    I tried 1000 early in my perfume journey. It was the modern EDT, and I found it quite perplexing. After reading about the possible demise of this classic, I went looking for a vintage to try. So many people seemed to find it interesting and I had to know what I was missing

    I was fortunate enough to find this lovely, pristine Eau de 1000, in its lovely velveteen presentation box. The looks alone make it worth having, even right down to the 'tortoise shell' cap on the bottle.

    What strikes me immediately, as it has with almost every comparison of vintage vs modern, is the balance and harmony of the vintage. The modern EDT I tried was harsh, with the dominant note being the eucalyptus. Here in Australia, we use eucalyptus to clear blocked noses when we get colds. I've never looked upon it as a particularly pretty fragrance note, and it struck me the same way as the medicinal note many people find in L'Heure Bleu.

    The vintage begins with a strong eucalyptus note that recedes into the background and you are left with much prettier floral heart notes.

    I still consider 1000 to be sufficiently unusual to become an acquired taste, a little like L'Heure Bleu.

    Just an aside - I have Edwardian Bouquet by Floris which has a similar style of unusual ingredients. It is reminiscent of 1000, only a little more unisex and woodier/dryer. If you are a great fan of 1000, it may be worthwhile giving Edwardian Bouquet a try. The name is decidedly inappropriate, giving the impression of some kind of sumptuous flower bouquet. Nothing could be further from the reality.

  11. #71

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    LMDM - thus we go to mediocrity.

    Have you ever noticed how all entropy leads to the trite and the trashy? As human beings - creative, intelligent, restless - we have created a world so complex, so intricate, that we have tired ourselves right out of it. We have become so enervated that, no sooner have we reached a pinnacle of achievement, the knives come out to destroy it. Most commonly, these days, in terms of money. Not enough profit. Too expensive, the ingredients. Well, there is no accounting for taste, it is true, and so it appears that the taste of the rich is no guarantee to keep something going (as if it ever was). The people who respond to 1000 or BaV like a bell are not always the ones holding the purse strings. Whether we're talking about Carruades de Lafite, or 1000, the strings are tightened except for the production of whatever opiate the masses currently fancy. Since more and more frequently this is what appeals to the broadest clientele, we are in for a mediocre end. We'll suffocate ourselves in fifteen formulations of whatever "trend" is au courant.

  12. #72

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    A very pathetic, but accurate and well-put analysis, bluemlein!

  13. #73
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    image.jpg

    My stash and I have a few more since I took this photo.

    Dans La Nuit Vers Le Jour Sans Adieu Je Reviens Vers Toi.


  14. #74

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    yummm! from when is the small oval-shouldered crystal bottle??? also, do you notice any difference in the aging of the smaller vs. the larger sizes of perfume? in wine, for example, one notices smoother aging in larger bottles, tho slower.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    The teeny one in the middle is actually an original tester from around 1974. 1000 was never available for sale in the bottle, I don't think.

    Dans La Nuit Vers Le Jour Sans Adieu Je Reviens Vers Toi.


  16. #76

    Default Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    The little bottle is quite common among Jean Patou. Most of the Ma Collection can be seen now and again in this size. There is also a slightly larger version of the bottle, I think a 1/2 ounce. The little one is about 7mls I think.

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