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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    ...I am so pleased the bottle slipped from your hand and broke, it was the hand of Poetic justice (aided of course by Retribution) at work...

    I love it!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I love it!
    Me too. Brielle, you're my kind of girl. I want to go shopping with YOU next time.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    I should clarify that Luca is the Pope of Perfume, definitely not me. Also, David, Terre d'Hermes is as sublime a masculine as it's possible to buy. Basically flawless. And next time you go to Takashimaya you can take "The Perfect Scent" and read that stupid woman the section in which I describe exactly how Celine Ellena created Sel de Vetiver, pg 188 of the paperback.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    ...And next time you go to Takashimaya you can take "The Perfect Scent" and read that stupid woman the section in which I describe exactly how Celine Ellena created Sel de Vetiver, pg 188 of the paperback.
    I want pictures of this. I'm thinking a video, uploaded to YouTube would be good.

    And if I might say, Mr. Burr, I think you are very 'princely' in your own right - and it's a pleasure to see you posting on Basenotes. ((tip of the hat))

  5. #35

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Thanks for dropping by Chandler and T.Rex well done for doing such a great job of being a "Basenotes Ambassador"
    Last edited by jathanas; 12th March 2009 at 02:20 AM.

  6. #36

    Question Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    I should clarify that Luca is the Pope of Perfume, definitely not me. Also, David, Terre d'Hermes is as sublime a masculine as it's possible to buy. Basically flawless. And next time you go to Takashimaya you can take "The Perfect Scent" and read that stupid woman the section in which I describe exactly how Celine Ellena created Sel de Vetiver, pg 188 of the paperback.
    Apart from a lot of praise on Basenotes, Terre d'Hermès also gets a lot of flak for its heavy reliance on Iso E Super for the cedar-like base. Don't you feel that by using one aromachemical so heavily, it takes away the originality of the scent?
    Wanted: a cap of Bvlgari Thé Vert

    Wanted: L' Artisan Timbuktu or Fragonard Concerto

    Feel free to visit Polderposh - a young up & coming Dutch fragrance blog!

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    And next time you go to Takashimaya you can take "The Perfect Scent" and read that stupid woman the section in which I describe exactly how Celine Ellena created Sel de Vetiver, pg 188 of the paperback.
    Wow - I think I have a man crush! Thanks for the always-interesting reviews!
    Marge: Do you want your son to become Chief Justice of the Supreme Court or a sleazy male stripper?
    Homer: Can't he be both, like the late Earl Warren?



  8. #38

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    The only reason I said getting TdH was lame was because I was in NEW YORK CITY where I could buy anything from Comme des Garçons to Serge Lutens to anything from the entire Guerlain line (Bergdorf's) and I got something that's pretty widely available everywhere in the US. There's nothing lame about the smell of TdH. It's gorgeous stuff. I was just thinking I should have gotten something more obscure when I had the chance.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    OMG, Chandler, I love you! Your books are incredible. Emperor changed my life (and indirectly wrecked my finances). No exaggeration.

    Yes, I'm a Chandler Burr fanboy, so what?

    Last edited by andylama; 12th March 2009 at 03:46 AM.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    excellent account T. Rex! It reminds me a lot of my NYC sniff-a-thon I went on a year ago. Love for fragrances changes the idea of traveling so much. And kudos to your friend for going along with it all! Lucky him! I took two friends around Manhattan with me on my NYC adventure and I created two converts for sure

    And Chandler, great to see you posting here (if you are still reading this). Your review of Bigarrade Concentree (or was it Cologne Bigarrade?) certainly gave me a big nudge in seeking out niche fragrances.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    I still can't believe this thread is real. Rexie comes back online with the trip report of a lifetime, the author who turned me into a perfumista shows up, and Brielle takes out the wicked witch. And throw in some Terre d'Hermes for good measure!

    Bless you for dropping in, Chandler!
    * * * *

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by T. Rex, Esq. View Post
    The only reason I said getting TdH was lame was because I was in NEW YORK CITY where I could buy anything from Comme des Garçons to Serge Lutens to anything from the entire Guerlain line (Bergdorf's) and I got something that's pretty widely available everywhere in the US. There's nothing lame about the smell of TdH. It's gorgeous stuff. I was just thinking I should have gotten something more obscure when I had the chance.
    Hey, I bought my bottle in New York City, too. I had just finished reading The Perfect Scent, and I was infatuated with all things Hermès and Ellena. I specifically sought it out in Times Square Sephora. Best masculine I smelled that night, and the beginning of my fragrant descent.

    But think about it. Coming to NYC? Meeting Chandler? Schooling the dragon lady on Sel de Vetiver? And buying a classic scent by the star of Chandler's book? It's such an amazingly cool combination. Terre Rex - hail to the king!
    * * * *

  13. #43

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Chandler, reading your description of Jardin en Mediterranee in the New Yorker was the thing that opened my eyes to niche fragrances, before then I'd only ever worn fashion house brands and didn't really appreciate there was a world of magical perfumes out there waiting to be discovered and bought.
    So on one hand, I owe my entire fragrance wardrobe to you. On the other hand, I'd say you owe me about $2000 that I wouldn't have spent if it weren't for having read your article...

  14. #44

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by nthny View Post
    excellent account T. Rex! It reminds me a lot of my NYC sniff-a-thon I went on a year ago. Love for fragrances changes the idea of traveling so much.

    And Chandler, great to see you posting here (if you are still reading this).
    Thanks, TRex, and everyone who've posted similar threads: nthny, Dimitri, mikeperez23, and more recently Ruggles' - to name the ones that come to mind. It makes such great reading. Traveling and scent exploration/adventure go so well together. I got a mild case of goose bumps reading this one.

    Althought it wasn't exactly a "blind buy", you did have, Chandler, some influence in my purchase of M7 Fresh.
    Last edited by Delmar; 12th March 2009 at 03:24 PM.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Jonnyt, I think we’re all in constant danger of anti-snobbery: we come to eschew the fashion brands in favor of niches just because they’re fashion brands. This is wrong. In a few weeks I’m going to demolish a fashion flanker that is truly cynical and of zero quality, but in the context of praising the original, which is a subtle, real beauty. I’m also (off the record) going to give Britney Spears a very good review; it was made by an excellent perfumer every bit as talented as the perfumers who do Ormonde Jayne’s and DelRa’s things. Moreoever, remember that these are in fact mostly the same guys (!); the perfumers do both niche and mass. Yes, Harry Fremont is a fashion, i.e. mass luxury, perfumer; I don’t see Harry doing something for biehl. parfumkunstwerke. But Harry is an *excellent fashion guy. Second point is that J’adore and Pleasures, both excellent, are just as good as the sublime Bigarade Concentree; the style differs, and the aesthetics differ, and the audience and intent differ (and god knows the creative process differs), but all three are crafted by artists. It happens that Giacobetti simply does more niche, but I think it’s a mistake to think that makes her automatically better. Thank god for the Kurkdjians, Lies, and Maisondieus, because certainly where the niche outdo the fashion is in creativity and imagination (Lipstick Rose-love the humor, expertly done), but all of it—fashion brands and niche explicitly included—is absolutely case by case in my opinion.

    And I’ll give you the $2,000 once The Times is doing better financially....! Sigh. I feel so bad about the state of this great paper.

    Stereotomy, coincidence that you ask <<Apart from a lot of praise on Basenotes, Terre d'Hermès also gets a lot of flak for its heavy reliance on Iso E Super for the cedar-like base. Don't you feel that by using one aromachemical so heavily, it takes away the originality of the scent?>> I’ve spent the past 2 days talking to perfumers about this because I’m giving a presentation next Tuesday at the School for Visual Arts about olfactory design http://dcrit.sva.edu/ (it’s closed to the public, unfortunately), and I’m presenting a series of revolutionary synthetic molecules, Hedione, Karanal, Calone, Iso-E Super. Perfumers, like everyone, say different things depending on their moods, but I think that if pressed they would all admit that there are formulae that successfully employ a huge amount of a single material (and they well may have made one, despite their sometimes--hypocritically-- using it to denigrate a colleague's work), and that honestly it doesn’t matter at all whether or not a single molecule or natural comprises a large proportion of the formula. That’s certainly the position I take. Synthetic X, even slightly modified, can in my view become a terrific, and entirely legitimate, perfume. I’m starting to think that one important school of future perfumery may be single molecules as the imposing structural cores of perfumes with a light skein of ornamental materials meant merely to frame, and show off, the synthetic.

    Chandler

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    ...Synthetic X, even slightly modified, can in my view become a terrific, and entirely legitimate, perfume. I’m starting to think that one important school of future perfumery may be single molecules as the imposing structural cores of perfumes with a light skein of ornamental materials meant merely to frame, and show off, the synthetic...
    Kind of like Schon did with the Escentric Molecules line?

    I see what you mean. I'm sure that, like you've mentioned before (I can't remember if it was in The Perfect Scent or in one of your columns) that you smelled a hay absolute that totally blew you away. I thought to myself, GOSH I would love to be able to spend a day in the labs of perfumers office, smelling perfume absolutes because sadly these are scents that will never, ever, reach my nose - well, not blended. And let's face it, some of them probably smell fantastic all by themselves. Of course, this might not always be cost effective - but the idea (the concept) sounds exciting.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Kind of like Schon did with the Escentric Molecules line?

    I see what you mean. I'm sure that, like you've mentioned before (I can't remember if it was in The Perfect Scent or in one of your columns) that you smelled a hay absolute that totally blew you away. I thought to myself, GOSH I would love to be able to spend a day in the labs of perfumers office, smelling perfume absolutes because sadly these are scents that will never, ever, reach my nose - well, not blended. And let's face it, some of them probably smell fantastic all by themselves. Of course, this might not always be cost effective - but the idea (the concept) sounds exciting.
    I still have a hard time with scents like those from Escentric. I realize that many others do essenetially the same thing (CDG Odeur 53; Mugler Cologne; Poivre Samarcande), but I guess the blatant marketing of admitting the use of only one synthetic cheapens the idea for me. Similar to how Helmut Lang re-bottled Velvione and added a few 0's to the price.

    As art, I can appreciate the idea over the actual materials used...but with all the talk of "economy" lately, it's hard to justify paying for that idea. Especially when I've got bottles of those synthetics kicking around that I paid almost nothing for.

  18. #48

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    Jonnyt, I think we’re all in constant danger of anti-snobbery: we come to eschew the fashion brands in favor of niches just because they’re fashion brands. This is wrong. In a few weeks I’m going to demolish a fashion flanker that is truly cynical and of zero quality, but in the context of praising the original, which is a subtle, real beauty. I’m also (off the record) going to give Britney Spears a very good review; it was made by an excellent perfumer every bit as talented as the perfumers who do Ormonde Jayne’s and DelRa’s things. Moreoever, remember that these are in fact mostly the same guys (!); the perfumers do both niche and mass. Yes, Harry Fremont is a fashion, i.e. mass luxury, perfumer; I don’t see Harry doing something for biehl. parfumkunstwerke. But Harry is an *excellent fashion guy. Second point is that J’adore and Pleasures, both excellent, are just as good as the sublime Bigarade Concentree; the style differs, and the aesthetics differ, and the audience and intent differ (and god knows the creative process differs), but all three are crafted by artists. It happens that Giacobetti simply does more niche, but I think it’s a mistake to think that makes her automatically better. Thank god for the Kurkdjians, Lies, and Maisondieus, because certainly where the niche outdo the fashion is in creativity and imagination (Lipstick Rose-love the humor, expertly done), but all of it—fashion brands and niche explicitly included—is absolutely case by case in my opinion.
    I know exactly what you mean, when I first started wearing Miller et Bertaux, Floris, L'Artisan etc, I immediately started looking down on the mass market stuff I'd been wearing only a month before. I think there is an essay in the Turin/ Sanchez book on the evolution of a perfumista, how you become a snob before becoming secure enough to start appreciating the cheap and cheerful again. Thankfully I'm nearly there, helped on by the fact that my wife tends to prefer YSL Homme and Farenheit to some of the more snobby brands (as it reminds her of what I smelled like when she met me) and that I finally realised that I'd rather have a bottle of Sean John on my shelf and $100 in my hand than a bottle of Creed MI and $1...

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    And I’ll give you the $2,000 once The Times is doing better financially....! Sigh. I feel so bad about the state of this great paper.
    Excellent, I'll pick up a copy today to boost sales...
    Last edited by jonnyt; 13th March 2009 at 09:59 AM. Reason: spelling

  19. #49

    Default Re: Coffee with Chandler Burr and Other Excitements from my NYC Trip

    This post was so adorable I'm glad I stopped to read it in my bad mood lol

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