Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1

    Default Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    I received a sample of No. 88 through their sites recent sign-up giveaway. I'm not entirely sure, but I think it went through another reformulation. It smells a lot different than the sample I had prior, not from the vintage bottle that came with the grey cylinder tube.

    There's something very odd and citrusy in the topnotes that smells like spearmint bubblegum and then it dries down into a very linear concentrated spicy incense base mixed with something else I can't detect. The cloves seem to be brought up a lot and the rose (or rose otto) is almost non-existing.

    It also seems to have lost a lot. Non-soapy, no lavender, no vapor aura, etc...

    I'm I crazy or has it changed a little?
    Last edited by nsamadi; 13th March 2009 at 12:43 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    the rose (or rose otto) is almost non-existing
    Like you, nsamadi, I only recently received my wonderful samples from C&S. Unlike you, however, I have no past experiences upon which to draw. I was blown away by 88. After about ten minutes of confusion after the initial blast, the rose, that black brooding rose, came through loud and clear, taking me completely by surprise! And it stayed around for hours.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    As I said already if y our previous sample was one with an atomizer this might be it. When you have to dab it it looks often different, specially a bit weaker.

    My new bottle has arrived today (with a Neroli as well ) . I ll tell you how I feel it after having tried the "new" juice tonight.
    Current top 10 in no particular order : Malle - Carnal Flower (pre 2008) ; Montale - Black Aoud ; Bond #9 - Silver Factory ; Tauer - L'air du désert marocain ; C&Z - No 88 ; Francis K. - APOM ; Creed - Aventus ; Amouage - Epic ; Profumum - Dulcis In Fundo ; Amouage - Opus V

  4. #4

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    There's something very odd and citrusy in the topnotes +
    It also seems to have lost a lot. Non-soapy, no lavender, no vapor aura, etc...
    I'm I crazy or has it changed a little?

    you said it. it feels a lot thinner and fresher and is stripped down of it dense, powdery soapy aura. and where is the sandalwood? it's a shame.

    btw, it's not changed a little, but a lot.
    Last edited by jenson; 13th March 2009 at 08:24 AM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    I tested it yesterday from the sample I received from C&S too and I have the same feelings of you guys. No more strong rose otto liqueur but just a not so comfy rose incense cheap stick burning there.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Such sad news. Everytime I think I've found a "holy grail", something to wear like a "signature scent" - it get's reformulated. Now I'll have to keep my old bottle for special occasions. Shit.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    An inferior reformulation of an already inferior reformulation? Where will it end?
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?


  9. #9

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    I have done a side by side test of No. 88 with a sample from the recently disbursed samples and the recent reformulation of No. 88, and I DO NOT detect any differences. Furthermore, the IFRA list of ingredients on the No. 88 sample card is identitical to that on the box of the recently reformulated No. 88.

    The confusion and panic has arisen in this instance, I suspect, with how people apply samples.
    When applying from a sample vial, most people don't actually apply enough fragrance on the skin for it to develop fully. Hence judgments made from an inadequate daub will usually tend to be, well, inadequate. If you use samples, it's a good idea to go heavy on the dabbing to the point where you cover an area of skin the size of a silver dollar, or about the circumfrence of a golf ball. A one ml vial should ideally supply two applications. Only then will you really be giving the fragrance a chance to develop and show its true character. When you think of it, a good spray from any sprayer will deliver about that much fragrance on your skin without any problems.

    In answer to jenson's question, there is definitely not the same amount of sandalwood in the reformulated version.
    In the reformulation of Czech & Speake No. 88, there was a change from a predominantly sandalwood base to a more sandalwood vetiver type base.

    I will say this, I think the reformulated version is still an outstanding fragrance in its own right. The original vintage Italian formulation is unmatchable, a paragon of the perfumer's art. I think of it as an EDP version of the new formulation, not only stronger and richer but also slightly, but significantly, different.
    I value both the original vintage Italian formulation, and the reformulation for that matter, more highly than any other niche fragrance I have tried, and I have tried as many as is humanly possible in this age where niche releases are becoming as common as the most common designer scents and as disappointing.

    scentemental


    Last edited by scentemental; 13th March 2009 at 04:48 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Great post.

    I kept saying here and in the other topic about C&Z that such a difference can be often noticed when compared between vial and spray samples but no one was listening to me

    I agree about the rest too.
    Current top 10 in no particular order : Malle - Carnal Flower (pre 2008) ; Montale - Black Aoud ; Bond #9 - Silver Factory ; Tauer - L'air du désert marocain ; C&Z - No 88 ; Francis K. - APOM ; Creed - Aventus ; Amouage - Epic ; Profumum - Dulcis In Fundo ; Amouage - Opus V

  11. #11

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    i have three samples (including this new one) and all are in vial format... i tried as much as possible to Dab equal strength on upper forarm....the difference is quite obvious, earlier i thought, maybe my older decant lost some of its purity and is heading straight into it's heartnotes where it exudes this luxurious , dense accord of sandalwood...but then, the new one never attained that luxurious depth of sandalwood in it's midnotes... now that Scentemental is confirming there is no change, ill have another go at it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roc_Xel View Post
    Great post.

    I kept saying here and in the other topic about C&Z that such a difference can be often noticed when compared between vial and spray samples but no one was listening to me

    I agree about the rest too.
    I was listening Roc_Xel. I should have mentioned it was your post that gave me the idea to post along the lines I did. For that I thank you, and please accept my apologies for neglecting to refer to your post.

    scentmental
    Last edited by scentemental; 13th March 2009 at 11:10 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    i have three samples (including this new one) and all are in vial format... i tried as much as possible to Dab equal strength on upper forarm....the difference is quite obvious.
    Same here. I poured my vial into an atomizer and sprayed it side by side with my other sample of No. 88. I still detect a slight difference as described before.

    I'll still give it another try....I don't have the best nose either.

  14. #14
    Mudassir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    1,610
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    I didn't detect any differences.
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  15. #15

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    Same here. I poured my vial into an atomizer and sprayed it side by side with my other sample of No. 88. I still detect a slight difference as described before.

    I'll still give it another try....I don't have the best nose either.
    Here's a simple thing not to do.

    Don't smell one version of the fragrance right after the other.

    Your nose is accustomed to and fatigued at the same time from the initial smell, and the second sniff you take of the other version of the fragrance will ALWAYS smell weaker and different.

    Allow a certain amount of time to pass between sniffs, or, at the very least, clear your nose buy taking a sniff of say the sleeve of your jacket or hoodie, which well clear the lingering traces of your first sniff from your nose and give you a better basis for comparison. Of course, you have to try really hard to remember that first sniff and exactly what it smelled like as you take another sniff of the other arm or hand. It's not as easy or as fool proof as it seems, and I can imagine many people have been comparing things the wrong way for a long time.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 13th March 2009 at 04:47 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely do that right-after my nose break.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Thnx for the tip scentemental !

  18. #18

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely do that right-after my nose break.
    I like that, yeah, take a "nose break."

    I have found that writing down one's impressions works really well. It's hard to hold everything in your head. Articulating sensory perceptions in words, contrary to what one might imagine, actually helps one formulate one's impressions more precisely; although, articulating things precisely, like sniffing precisely, takes time and practice.

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    Thnx for the tip scentemental !
    You're always welcome jenson.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 13th March 2009 at 04:54 PM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Of course I had to try this.


    I bought my bottle of 88 couple of years ago; it is that one with the black box. I recently got that sample set from C&S, and although 88 was included I didn`t even try it because I naturally presumed it was the same juice that I have in my bottle.

    About an hour ago I put few dabs from that vial to my left hand, and a spray from my bottle to my right hand; exactly the amount I thought came out from the vial.

    Now I`ve been spying this scent with my all of my sense of smell sharpened, streched to the max of my capacity, and....I see no difference whatsoever.


    Thank the Lord for small mercies...

  20. #20

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Ok I just received my brand new bottle shiped directly from C&Z and could test it well tonight.

    Don t worry, it s absolutetly sure now, it is the same (amazing) juice. Seems to me way more potent than my vial sample but that s probably because of the spray, that "works" great btw. Besides this fact that it looks more potent it is exactly the same as before. It is really powerful and so potent, it has not ¨been made weaker at all, i m totally sure about it.

    It came in the beautifufl black box.

    By the way, i ordered a brand new Neroli bottle at the same time and it is also way more potent than the vial sample when it comes out of the bottle. Much better projection than the sample.

    I m also sure it would be the same with Dark Rose

    What a great house..
    Current top 10 in no particular order : Malle - Carnal Flower (pre 2008) ; Montale - Black Aoud ; Bond #9 - Silver Factory ; Tauer - L'air du désert marocain ; C&Z - No 88 ; Francis K. - APOM ; Creed - Aventus ; Amouage - Epic ; Profumum - Dulcis In Fundo ; Amouage - Opus V

  21. #21

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Did a retest later this evening. Used a silver dollar sized application with the vial on the wrist and took plenty of time between whiffs. Yup, they are identical. Sorry about that.
    Last edited by nsamadi; 16th March 2009 at 05:54 AM.

  22. #22
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    26,561

    Default Re: Has C&S No. 88 Gone Through Another Reformulation?

    Wonderful news - glad to hear that there have been no further changes to No. 88. However I still am waiting, one of these days, to get the chance to buy a vintage bottle.

Similar Threads

  1. C&S Dark Rose vintage v. current version & more
    By the_good_life in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 6th March 2009, 07:23 AM
  2. C&S Rose (new) v. Rose (old) - Gertrude you had no idea
    By the_good_life in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 1st March 2009, 09:44 PM
  3. Amouage Gold Reformulation
    By InconcievableZen in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 27th December 2008, 01:16 PM
  4. Reformulation....Eagle or chicken?
    By N_Tesla in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 18th December 2008, 02:52 PM
  5. Reformulation without a name change
    By jfreem2 in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 17th October 2008, 08:11 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •