Encre Noire EdP: A Review

[T. Rex, Esq.]

I was really looking forward to trying out Lalique's Encre Noire Eau de Parfum. I'm a big fan of the Eau de Toilette, so I was terribly excited when the staff at Aedes de Venusta let me take a sample vial of the EdP with me. I got it home and put it into an atomizer and gave it a full wearing yesterday.

I wish that I had better news to report. Frankly, I wasn't all that knocked out with it.

It went on much like the EdT. At first I made sure to use much less than I would have used the EdT, thanks to the higher concentration. Honestly, that didn't make much of a difference. I ended up applying just as much as I would have of the regular Encre Noire after about half an hour because I wasn't really smelling it.

Up close, it's very much like the EdT, but rounder, deeper, more complex. There are sweeter notes, particularly in the drydown, things come swimming up that reminded me of smoke, vanilla, and tobacco, but bear in mind that these are very, very subtle impressions. In fact, Encre Noire Eau de Parfum kind of reminds me mostly of a hybrid between the EdT and Chanel Sycomore. I have to wonder if the perfumer who composed Sycomore hadn't smelled Encre Noire EdP and thought, "I can do that! And way cheaper!"

So, yes, it is a (slightly) stronger and (slightly) more complex version of the Eau de Toilette, but honestly, it's sooooo not six to seven hundred dollars' worth of stronger and more complex. I have to wonder how much of the EdP's exorbitant price tag has to do with the fabulous crystal flaçon rather than the juice, because honestly, I think I'm perfectly happy owning Sycomore and Encre Noire EdT and having all that money to spend on other things.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you might have.

[mtgprox05]

Ahh, that's a shame! I love me my Encre Noir EDT, and recently having had the opportunity to try out Sycamore, I'm torn between the two. They definitely smell similar (very similar) but unlike the GIT to CW comparisons in this case I can actually diffirentiate between the two. To my nose Sycamore is a mellower, rounder, very slightly sweeter Encre Noir without the ink like topnotes. EN and Sycamore really fascinate me. Unfortunately I don't think they can coexist in the same wardrobe. Sigh

[bbBD]

mtgprox... of course they can coexist in the same wardrobe! Why not?

T.Rex - you answered my first question, which is "is it worth it?" - but let me ask you this - what is it worth? What would be the price point at which the EDP would be acceptable to purchase, or is it really not so much better than the EDT that anything above normal niche pricing wouldn't be realistic to spend?

[T. Rex, Esq.]

mtgprox... of course they can coexist in the same wardrobe! Why not?

T.Rex - you answered my first question, which is "is it worth it?" - but let me ask you this - what is it worth? What would be the price point at which the EDP would be acceptable to purchase, or is it really not so much better than the EDT that anything above normal niche pricing wouldn't be realistic to spend?

Honestly, I plan on sticking with the EdT. I would maybe pay $150 for 50ml of the EdP without the crystal flaçon.

I believe that Encre Noire and Sycomore can happily coexist in a wardrobe together. I find Encre Noire to be a more casual jeans-and-a-sweater fragrance whereas Sycomore could be jeans and a sweater or a coat and tie.

That said, I'm not buying anymore Encre Noire EdT (I'm out) until I've used up my Sycomore.

[mtgprox05]

I think in this case even more so than with the Kilian line, you are paying for the bottle. I'm sure that most if given the opportunity and at the same price would choose the EDP over the EDT but I don't think that it would be worth 100 dollars more let alone 600! I really believe that in this case the bottle is what is driving the cost. Otherwise what is in it that could possibly be worth that much more than any other niche offerings?

Edit: Just for research's purpose, how much is the going rate for a bottle of Sycamore?

[mythreedroogs]

I can't seem any bottles of Encre Noir any where. Where are people finding the EdT?

[Bigsly]

Would anyone care to compare either of these to Equipage?

[Astaroth]

I can't seem any bottles of Encre Noir any where. Where are people finding the EdT?

How about here?

[bbBD]

Would anyone care to compare either of these to Equipage?

Encre Noir and Sycomore are both in the 'strong-vetiver' category, like Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire and PG Querelle. There's no distinct vetiver in Equipage, which is more of a 'smoky/mossy/wood'. Other than all being masculines there's no similarity between these.

[Hasupk@gmail.com]

The funny thing is I still have a sealed box on encre noire that I have yet to open and try
lets hope I love because it was expensive enough.

[gupts]

Thanks for the review mate.
I am not disappointed with it (the review) but the price is surely a dampner.

I think its the high price tag of Encre Noire edp that makes most of us curious. Otherwise most of times, edp's are usually 'denser & deeper' versions of the edt's. If it were priced somewhere around the $150 mark, it would have got some mileage. I wonder why they chose to bring it out in a crystal flacon and jack up the price to US$750.....Does any basenoter even own a bottle? I doubt it....

[mikeperez23]

Great review T.

Where, oh where, the heck is Graffham - he's a certified Encre Noire Fan Club member.

GRAFFHAM!!?? ((yelling)) Where u at?!

[jathanas]

So, yes, it is a (slightly) stronger and (slightly) more complex version of the Eau de Toilette, but honestly, it's sooooo not six to seven hundred dollars' worth of stronger and more complex. I have to wonder how much of the EdP's exorbitant price tag has to do with the fabulous crystal flaçon rather than the juice, because honestly, I think I'm perfectly happy owning Sycomore and Encre Noire EdT and having all that money to spend on other things.
.

Thanks for the review.

Your point about the price is noted but isn't that how aspirational marketing works e.g. a BMW 335i might "not be worth" 3 times the price of an equivalent Subaru but many people here down-under happily pay it.

[Scentologist]

The EDT is fine with me. EN is perhaps one of the best vetivers out their in addition to Guerlain's.

[teger]

Almost my exact same thoughts - "....the EdP, it comes off as a more powerful and "juiced up" version of Encre Noire. The spiciness in the topnotes last much longer comparing the two side by side. During the middle notes & basenotes the EdT takes on a dry, dark tone much sooner compared to the EdP - which is still going strong after 1 hour (the woods are still there)."

Robert at Aedes was also nice enough to send me a sample, but I can't help to think their price is gouged. At escentual.com you can get it for a little over $500, not that it still isn't expensive.

[scentemental]

. . . . So, yes, it is a (slightly) stronger and (slightly) more complex version of the Eau de Toilette, but honestly, it's sooooo not six to seven hundred dollars' worth of stronger and more complex. I have to wonder how much of the EdP's exorbitant price tag has to do with the fabulous crystal flaçon rather than the juice, because honestly, I think I'm perfectly happy owning Sycomore and Encre Noire EdT and having all that money to spend on other things . . . .

. . . Robert at Aedes was also nice enough to send me a sample, but I can't help to think their price is gouged. At escentual.com you can get it for a little over $500, not that it still isn't expensive.

To answer T. Rex, Esq.'s question and to give a perspective on the price gouging query, here's what I know: having talked to some people on the manufacturing and distribution sides of the perfumery business about general costs of the juice, I would estimate--and so this is a fairly educated estimate----that the perfume oils costs for the Encre Noire EDT would be less than $5.00. For the EDP, let's say, at the most, it would be $8.00 to $10.00. I believe I am erring on the side of over estimating the cost. I can guarantee you that it's not more than my estimate, and it could be considerably less, up to fifty percent less. Let's also not forget the perfume oils of Encre Noire EDT are made up of 45% Iso E Super®, a very very cheap aromachemical. In case you were wondering, vetiver and vetiver derivatives like vetiverol and vetiveryl acetate are also very cheap and wouldn't add more than a couple of dollars to the total cost of a bottle.

scentemental

[Bigsly]

On the other end of the spectrum, a $20, 100 ml bottle of EdT I consider expensive !

[graffham]

Great review T.

Where, oh where, the heck is Graffham - he's a certified Encre Noire Fan Club member.

GRAFFHAM!!?? ((yelling)) Where u at?!

HERE I AM, MR. PEREZ!!!! (And thank you T.)

I can't believe I missed this thread? When did it start? OH, I was at Confession and it was a long one.

Thanks for the heads up on this edp! I'll stick with the Dior Homme Intense and the Opium edp.

[Bartlebooth]

Encre Noir never really struck me as being a fragrance in need of an EDP version. The EDT version is very well formulated and balanced, and by the sound of it, the EDP version adds nothing to the brand.

[Mudassir]

$750 is a joke. It would have been a joke, even if it were parfum extrait and not EDP. Perhaps its marketed towards clientele that knows Lalique for its crystals and not fragrances.

[mikeperez23]

HERE I AM, MR. PEREZ!!!! (And thank you T.) I can't believe I missed this thread? When did it start? OH, I was at Confession and it was a long one...

L O L

...Just for research's purpose, how much is the going rate for a bottle of Sycamore?

$200 for a 200 ml atomizer (Most Chanel boutiques will take your order over the phone with a cc and the one in Bal Harbour ships free to Domestic US)

[cpk]

I missed that thread too. I have been for ever wondering how the EdR compares to the EdT and I believe I will like it a lot as the top notes are reported to last longer and this is what I love about EN. It is a pity that it comes in a Lalique crystal bottle which is probably worth 500$. To me this is bad marketing because there are a lot of people who would pay 150$ for a regular glass bottle of EdP but very few that would pay 500$-700$ for a Lalique crystal bottle.

[rinosaur]

Thanks for the review.

Your point about the price is noted but isn't that how aspirational marketing works e.g. a BMW 335i might "not be worth" 3 times the price of an equivalent Subaru but many people here down-under happily pay it.

Well it may not be literally 3 times better but its significantly better in every category. Its built wayy stronger, its twice as fast, more luxurious, more refined, has a better suspension, alot more technologically advanced features, safer, is built with high quality components, and it will give you the ride of your life (assuming you dont drive a Porsche or something better already). Here is something (EdP) thats reviewed as every so slightly better but costs 8 times as much.

edit: actually closer to 16 times as much since you can get the Edt 100ml for $50

[rogalal]

Don't forget that Lalique is primarily an art-glass company. Do a google shopping search for Lalique crystal - $4950 for a bowl, $2480 for a vase. Their perfumes are basically something pretty to put in their glass.

Like Mudassir said, the EDP is clearly marketed towards their glass collectors, not their perfume fans. In fact, the flatter crystal EDP container is based on a 1913 ink bottle designed by the original Rene Lalique. That's the point of it, more than the fragrance.

Oh, and thank you for the review - I was seriously wondering about this, too!

[xmen]

I have seen many bottles of the edt but so far none of the edp. Unless of course they have placed it somewhere in a safe or something.

I don't know but this expensive bottle could be a collector's item one day.

[yonggoh]

this is great news as i need not wonder too much about the EDP as i can be content with good ol regular plain jane EDT

[albumleaf]

Well it may not be literally 3 times better but its significantly better in every category. Its built wayy stronger, its twice as fast, more luxurious, more refined, has a better suspension, alot more technologically advanced features, safer, is built with high quality components, and it will give you the ride of your life (assuming you dont drive a Porsche or something better already).

Spoken like the finest of bench racing douchebags.

[shermanirving]

I tried this at Aedes last week for the first time and I concur with the review. Seems like the money is really going for the massive crystal bottle more than anything - if there's much difference beyond concentration with the fragrance I didn't notice it.

[rinosaur]

Spoken like the finest of bench racing douchebags.

If you've never driven high end sports cars I understand you making such a statement.

[seemon]

Just a question. Is Encre noire closer to L'occitane vetyver or Guerlain vetiver?
TNX