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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Does oud has the ability to make floral notes in a perfume bloom?

    I just read a very interesting article online at Glass Petal Smoke about oud. In the article, Michelle writes:

    ...A perfumer once told me that essential oil of Oud has the ability to make floral ingredients in a perfume bloom. I decided to test the figurative aspect of this statement to see just how literal it could be. I obtained certified Oud from Enfleurage in New York and conducted an experiment using a 10% dilution of the raw material.

    I dipped one blotter in the Oud and another in Tabac Blond (Caron), keeping each blotter in a separate hand. I chose Tabac Blond for the experiment as ferreting florals in the Caron classic takes time as the dominant leatheric and tobacco effects override the floralcy in the fragrance. I slowly drew the Oud blotter towards the Tabac Blond until the space between the blotters measured an inch. What transpired was an unforgettable synesthetic moment; I saw a rose and smelled it as if it were present on a bush in front of me. The rose aroma didnít dominate the overall fragrance impression of Tabac Blond; it made itself known among the perfume's other ingredients and seemed to add a quality of richness to the composition...'


    I know that oud based fragrances I've smelled (primarily Montale and Amouage) the florals are usually of the 3-D variety - spatial, very vivid, and they linger in my nose for a longer period of time.

    So - does anyone out there in Basenotes own pure oud oil and wish to experiment with this and see if they get the same results?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Does oud has the ability to make floral notes in a perfume bloom?

    Sounds like a JC Ellena card trick (y'know, with his blotter and all infront of the media).

    I just tried this with some oud and Rose Damascena oil (diluted ofcourse, and probably not the best quality) - true, the rose nor the oud dominated but I didn't detect any blooming of floral notes. Maybe it requires a more vivid imagination ?

    For my next experiment I mixed the two oils to compose an oil mixture for my aromatherapy burner and the oud note just smothered the rose .. perhaps a more calculated % mixture is required for these two very heavy notes..
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Does oud has the ability to make floral notes in a perfume bloom?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Sounds like a JC Ellena card trick (y'know, with his blotter and all infront of the media).

    I just tried this with some oud and Rose Damascena oil (diluted ofcourse, and probably not the best quality) - true, the rose nor the oud dominated but I didn't detect any blooming of floral notes. Maybe it requires a more vivid imagination ?

    For my next experiment I mixed the two oils to compose an oil mixture for my aromatherapy burner and the oud note just smothered the rose .. perhaps a more calculated % mixture is required for these two very heavy notes..
    Try it with a fragrance that contains florals, but isn't purely floral (like pure rose oil). Like Antaeus...for instance.

    I think the point in her exercise, was that it would 'lift' a floral note that might play in the background of a scent (like the Tabac Blond she mentions).

  4. #4

    Post Re: Does oud has the ability to make floral notes in a perfume bloom?

    I have found that Oud seems to deepen a floral note, but does it make it bloom? I think not.I think that floral notes used in conjunction with lighter notes seems to make floral notes bloom.IMHO
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