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  1. #1

    Default Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    A new batch of fragrances has arrived from La Via del Profumo. The Italian perfumeur, Abdes Salam Attar, makes all-natural perfumes, and he takes care to choose high-quality ingredients. The result is astonishing and sure to evoke strong emotions. His creative daring results in bold and innovative scents.
    This thread is part three of a series.

    I will be joined by Asha and Aiona, and, in addition, I will be sending samples out tomorrow to Quarry, Lilybelle, Chestnut, and Whisperingleaves.
    Welcome, testers!

    My box contains the following items:

    Fragrances:
    Philum
    Rose des Bois
    Aalacho
    Cuba Express

    Samples of the bespoke fragrances can be found here:
    http://www.profumo.it/perfume/prodotti_outsiders.asp

    Samples of the regular line of Scents of the Sould can be found here:
    http://profumo.it/perfume/prodotti_mignon.asp

    Ingredients:
    Ambergris
    http://profumo.it/perfume/aromathera...mbergris_1.htm

    Tuberosa

    Castoreum
    http://profumo.it/perfume/prodotto.asp?pid=202

    I will begin the discussion with the three perfume ingredients, all of which are totally fascinating. Here is the most remarkable one:

    Ambergris tincture - What a rare and wonderful substance. And this time, it is available without the guilt from killing whales. Beach harvested ambergris is more useable than the stinky mess obtained from whale vomit. This ambergris had been floating on the ocean for decades, being cleaned and hardened by the sun and the brine, and then it was washed up on the beach for the lucky finder of this expensive substance.

    So, so.... What does it smell like? Strange, complex, off-putting and attractive at the same time. I am going to make a comparison here, and it is a curious one, but I think I have an explanation for it if you will bear with me.

    Ambergris smells a little like stomach bile. It is the bitter, medicinal aroma in one's mouth after a long illness. It is strong, very strong. After purging and no eating for many days, the body is empty, the system has reached the point where it must survive. There is nothing left. The digestion is cleansed of all outside substances and ready to resume its work. There is a taste in the mouth, and this is it.

    I suppose it makes sense. Whales also get sick in their stomachs sometimes. After all, that is how ambergris is made.

    Another enlightening fact about the smell of ambergris---it smells like old perfume. (Conversely, old perfume smells like ambergris.) Yes, in fact, many of you have probably smelled real ambergris in the base of vintage perfumes. I recognize this aroma from the inside of my late grandmother's purse. Most women who wore perfume at the turn of the century, in the 1900s, had access to ambergris. I never knew what it was. As a child, I wrinkled my nose and thought it was extremely odd and slightly unpleasant--an unclean, musty odor. And yet, I could not stop trying to smell it. I looked for it. I looked forward to smelling it again. I thought about it in my memory. I associated it with a generation of adventurous women who had come to America on ships from faraway lands.

    And here it is again, plain and simple, not covered by orange blossom, rose, or jasmine as it often was in those days. It takes me back in my mind to the old days. You can smell it in the bottom of the dried-up bottle of ancient perfume still, after all these years. that is how pervasive--and unforgettable--an odor it is.

    Castoreum - I am one of those people who likes animalic notes in her perfume. Something about the warmth and organic nature of these aromas fascinates me. Jean Patou 1000, Guerlain Jicky, Paloma Picasso, vintage Cuir de Russie--all have strong animalic notes. They fascinate me. Their "dirtiness" holds my attention. One would, therefore, assume that I like civit and castoreum. To the contrary, I was surprised to find that can barely tolerate these substances on their own.

    Castoreum smells rude and aggressive. It is leather with a bitter edginess. It has a fecal topnote and rubber undertone. My cat jumped up on my desk while I was writing about castoreum, and I held out my arm to her. She sniffed, looked at me with wide, alarmed eyes, and promptly jumped down and left the room. Do you understand what I mean by "aggressive?" Even she, with no vocabulary to describe it, decided that whatever had marked my arm with its scent was big, strong, and not to angered. This is a "masculine" note, no doubt about it. It claims territory.

    Tuberose - Here is a prime example of the type of ingredients that Profumo uses. I had ordered tuberose extract for last summer's Note Identification Project. I hated it. My sample was nasty, smelling of rotten flowers, and unsweet. I could never like tuberose. I was puzzled. I could not understand how a perfume like Fracas could be made from this hideous absolute.

    Now I smell a high-quality tuberose extract from Profumo, and my mind has changed. To be sure, it still retains that slightly "meaty" quality of jungle flowers, but this tuberose is markedly sweet, strangely beautiful, a mix of fleshy and sugary notes, some green and haylike wildness, and a strong projection of a floral note. I should never say "never." Good thing I smelled this. It explains everything to me about Fracas. What a great note. I stand corrected about tuberose.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 13th April 2009 at 01:42 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Awesome impressions, pbird!

    I thought the castoreum was great. I did a side by side wearing along with vintage Bal a Versailles extrait, and was getting whiffs of rootbeer from both arms all day. BaV was a bit on the sweetened side, and the straight castoreum a little more dry and herbal.

    I have been waiting on trying the newest samples until you and your team have everything in place
    Last edited by Asha; 1st April 2009 at 03:17 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Nice reviews. I'd be very curious to try some real ambergris!

    I'm a little confused, though. We have three teams... but is the first team still going? Is there going to be a third batch for us?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Galamb_Borong, the original intent from our team of eight was for us to receive eight packages total, one sent to each team member who will distribute. So, we still have a ways to go for team one, although Profumo has not announced what the next step is
    Last edited by Asha; 1st April 2009 at 03:17 AM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Purplebird, your description of castoreum hit it out of the park. Brava, diva.

    I too was drawn to ambergris as a young child. I still own old and carefully stored boudoir items that retain some of its repulsive yet attractiveness of ambergris after nearly a century. I recently procured the tiniest bit of ambergris in tincture and this pinhead-sized amount was a powerful messenger of memories of the sick-bed while, at the same time reminiscent of those old perfume bottles with their pungent dessicated contents.

    Tuberose, regardless of its source, has left me with not only the fleshy meat that you describe but that of decomposing meat. I cannot explain why, but I accept it as part of the total. The single flowered tuberose is the most powerful both in its sweetness and its putrid nature. The same goes for pittosporum, a 20' tree of which is blooming outside our house. I refer to it as the sweet death tree.
    Don a wig of larks and fly!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Thanks, Merbert, The perplexing thing was my cat's reaction. She took one sniff of the castoreum, and the poor little animal jumped down and ran out of the room. She was actually frightened. This same cat licked civit from my hand. So, with cats, it is "no" for beavers and "yes" for civets. It makes sense.

    Today I am wearing Aalacho.
    The perfume is a beautiful green color.
    My first impression is that this is a man's fragrance. I think it would smell better on a man than a woman. However, anyone who read my previous posts will know that Gringo was my favorite Profumo fragrance so far, and it was a real gent's perfume.
    On first application, it gives off some "barbershop" vibes, a bit soapy and fresh.
    However, knowing Profumo, there is some animalic ingredient artfully hidden in here. It has a bitter edge to it, so I will guess ambergris or castoreum.
    The middle phase is sweet and spicy. I think it smells like a pot of sugar-water boiling on the stove to make syrup, with cardamom added.
    The ending seems reverse-engineered, with a lemony note popping up in the base that was not evident before. Lemon notes, being citrus, usually appear in the top, so perhaps this is something different like vetiver or herbs.
    It is transparent, neither creamy nor ambery.
    And if there are florals, they do not smell traditional, like rose or jasmine, but are something exotic.
    Well? Let's see what I got right.
    Profumo, if you want to delay your answer until the others have had a chance to smell Aalacho, please wait until they post.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    I ordered a bottle of Castoreum tincture spray from Profumo last autumn. Your review on it is spot-on. Rude and aggressive, but in a good way. It then mellows down into a "nice" raw leather. Good for amp-ing up leather scents.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post

    Today I am wearing Aalacho.
    The perfume is a beautiful green color.
    My first impression is that this is a man's fragrance. I think it would smell better on a man than a woman. However, anyone who read my previous posts will know that Gringo was my favorite Profumo fragrance so far, and it was a real gent's perfume.
    On first application, it gives off some "barbershop" vibes, a bit soapy and fresh.
    However, knowing Profumo, there is some animalic ingredient artfully hidden in here. It has a bitter edge to it, so I will guess ambergris or castoreum.
    The middle phase is sweet and spicy. I think it smells like a pot of sugar-water boiling on the stove to make syrup, with cardamom added.
    The ending seems reverse-engineered, with a lemony note popping up in the base that was not evident before. Lemon notes, being citrus, usually appear in the top, so perhaps this is something different like vetiver or herbs.
    It is transparent, neither creamy nor ambery.
    And if there are florals, they do not smell traditional, like rose or jasmine, but are something exotic.
    Well? Let's see what I got right.
    Profumo, if you want to delay your answer until the others have had a chance to smell Aalacho, please wait until they post.
    Yes Purplebird, I do not want to reveal the composition before some others tell their impressions. At least Aiona and Asha who have recieved it quite a few days ago. I would like very much to read them about these fragrances. They might have some idea about this perfume who has such a strange name. The name was given by the person for whom it was composed. From Google Aalacho appears to be a music band.
    Last edited by Profumo; 31st March 2009 at 08:32 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  9. #9

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Thanks, Merbert, The perplexing thing was my cat's reaction. She took one sniff of the castoreum, and the poor little animal jumped down and ran out of the room. She was actually frightened. This same cat licked civit from my hand. So, with cats, it is "no" for beavers and "yes" for civets. It makes sense.
    One of my cats goes gaga for my Asghar Ali Noor and Al-Hijan, as well as Ajmal No. 30. I suspect civet and possibly ambergris in each. The other looks positively perplexed (a neutered male.)

    Today I am wearing Aalacho.
    The perfume is a beautiful green color.
    My first impression is that this is a man's fragrance. I think it would smell better on a man than a woman. However, anyone who read my previous posts will know that Gringo was my favorite Profumo fragrance so far, and it was a real gent's perfume.
    On first application, it gives off some "barbershop" vibes, a bit soapy and fresh.
    However, knowing Profumo, there is some animalic ingredient artfully hidden in here. It has a bitter edge to it, so I will guess ambergris or castoreum.
    The middle phase is sweet and spicy. I think it smells like a pot of sugar-water boiling on the stove to make syrup, with cardamom added.
    The ending seems reverse-engineered, with a lemony note popping up in the base that was not evident before. Lemon notes, being citrus, usually appear in the top, so perhaps this is something different like vetiver or herbs.
    It is transparent, neither creamy nor ambery.
    And if there are florals, they do not smell traditional, like rose or jasmine, but are something exotic.
    Well? Let's see what I got right.
    Profumo, if you want to delay your answer until the others have had a chance to smell Aalacho, please wait until they post.
    Your description of Aalacho makes me want it in a lustful sort of way. You hit all my buttons with words like "barbershop, soapy, animalic, cardamom syrup, vetiver (especially at the end). I make sugar syrups with things like orange blossom water and green cardamom and can already sense that Aalacho is for me. How can one get a sample
    Don a wig of larks and fly!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Thanks, Merbert, The perplexing thing was my cat's reaction. She took one sniff of the castoreum, and the poor little animal jumped down and ran out of the room. She was actually frightened. This same cat licked civit from my hand. So, with cats, it is "no" for beavers and "yes" for civets. It makes sense.

    Today I am wearing Aalacho.
    The perfume is a beautiful green color.
    My first impression is that this is a man's fragrance. I think it would smell better on a man than a woman. However, anyone who read my previous posts will know that Gringo was my favorite Profumo fragrance so far, and it was a real gent's perfume.
    On first application, it gives off some "barbershop" vibes, a bit soapy and fresh.
    However, knowing Profumo, there is some animalic ingredient artfully hidden in here. It has a bitter edge to it, so I will guess ambergris or castoreum.
    The middle phase is sweet and spicy. I think it smells like a pot of sugar-water boiling on the stove to make syrup, with cardamom added.
    The ending seems reverse-engineered, with a lemony note popping up in the base that was not evident before. Lemon notes, being citrus, usually appear in the top, so perhaps this is something different like vetiver or herbs.
    It is transparent, neither creamy nor ambery.
    And if there are florals, they do not smell traditional, like rose or jasmine, but are something exotic.
    Well? Let's see what I got right.
    Profumo, if you want to delay your answer until the others have had a chance to smell Aalacho, please wait until they post.
    OMG this sounds like my holy grail. Profumo, please send us some of this in team 1

    Great reviews purplebird!

    Edit: Aiona and Asha, is this part of sampling package 3?
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 31st March 2009 at 10:52 PM.
    Sales thread here

  11. #11

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Three's Sampling Impressions

    I wish I could change the name of this thread. Profumo says this is not Team Three, but merely part of Team Two, which belongs to Quarry. Sorry for the confusion.
    I look forward to reading Asha and Aiona's impressions.
    My packages went out today to the rest of my group.
    Tomorrow I will review... Cuba Express.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Purplebird, you should be able to edit the first post--just hit the edit button, and when the next window comes up, there is a "Go Advanced" button that will take you to another window which allows you to change the title of the thread. You can also change the first post contents at this stage.
    Last edited by Asha; 1st April 2009 at 03:18 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Thanks, Asha, sweetie. I just corrected the thread.

    Today I tell the Tale of Two Tobaccos.
    Tobacco notes occupy a love-hate position with me. I have always loved the aroma of tobacco shops but disliked the smell of burning tobacco. Last summer, when I did the Note Identification Project, I ordered some tobacco absolute, wondering if it would trigger the love or hate reaction. Hoping for the former, I discovered the latter. I opened the little glass vial to discover a tarry, almost black goo that smelled as unappealing as the inside of a bong. I couldn't make any pretty perfumes out of it. I tried and gave up.

    I've had the hardest time with the smoke note, even in some of the most highly-regarded fragrances, such as Andy Tauer Lonestar Memories, Molinard Habanita, Ayala Moriel Espionage, Le Labo Patchouli 24, even L'Artisan Tea for Two. I have fared better with the unburned tobacco note, such as the booze-leather-and-cigaretts of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe, the men's club pipe tobacco of Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, the galbanum and wet tobacco of Bandit, the base of Cabochard, and the rich, honeyed-tobacco note in Paloma Picasso.

    So, with some trepidation, I review two overtly tobacco scents. Will I like them? Which will appeal to me more?

    To begin with, both of these impress me as men's fragrances--ones that I would prefer to smell on a man rather than on myself. I do not smoke. I have only loved two men in my life who have been smokers: one was my uncle, and the other was my first lover. So I possess two, distinctly different mood associations with the scent of tobacco.

    Cuba Express - The opening of Cuba Express interested me more because it included some sweet food items, such as tropical fruits, spices, and rum. In short, this fragrance reminds me of vacation! It makes me think of going somewhere sunny and warm, of eating ethnic food at local restaurants--which is one of the funnest aspects of foreign travel. The restaurant is filled with people enjoying fresh fruit, steaming coffee, chocolate dessert, and spiced rum. Men are smoking cigars. (The tobacco in this perfume resembles pipe or cigar tobacco, not cigarettes.) This perfume is heavy and complex, juxtaposed with edible and non-edible aromas. As a woman, I would wear it if the food items dominated the tobacco, but it works the other way around. It would be nice on a man who is outgoing and friendly, who laughs a lot, expresses himself openly, and dresses well, in a colorful shirt and summer suit.

    Chilum - Intially, I appreciated this fragrance less, but in the end, I preferred Chilum over Cuba Express. At first application it was lighter, less sweet, and, I thought, weaker. The tobacco was less heavy, which makes it more wearable for me. There was a little sweetness in the ginger, but nothing very sugary. And then, my favorite part began: Sandalwood. Real sandalwood added its woody, powdery charm which grew and grew as I wore it. Chilum always stays rather dry, but it is pleasing and airy due to the superior sandalwood base. It makes me want to breathe inward. Hey, that's a little like smoking, isn't it? This tobacco perfume would be more wearable by different kinds of people, tending toward light, adaptability.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 2nd April 2009 at 11:53 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    The last perfume in this package is:
    Rose de Bois - I already reviewed this in a different thread, but I think it deserves another mention because it is so lovely. This one, I would recommend to anyone who has never worn an all-natural perfume because it epitomizes that genre. It goes on fresh and turns into a lovely skin-scent. The rose is delicately green and spicy, sweet and softly woody. Again, the sandalwood base is exquisite. Personally, I think it would make a fabulous summer scent because the real sandalwood is gorgeous and long-lasting when it becomes warmed on the skin. Most women would like this, so it's a good place to start when exploring natural perfumes.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Testing on paper today...

    Ambergris Tincture

    After the alcohol dries, I get a very strong smell of mothballs. I am very surprised because I also smell a similar mothball quality in civet. To my nose, civet is like a combination of mothballs, feces and florals. Ambergris is like mothballs, brine and bile. I can't disagree with purplebird on the bile aspect, only my first inclination was to say it smelled of very bad breath (human). Another surprise for me--this is the first animalic that I have not found to be pleasant. Apparently I prefer feces to vomit Joking aside, I can tell that ambergris could be transformed by blending. I am sure its bitter edge could round out a fragrance, giving it some definition in the same way that bitter herbs and salt make a bland stew come to life. The deep drydown is sweet, not like what is typically considered an amber accord (labdanum, benzoin, vanilla), and it smells quite lovely, a bit like fresh air (but NOT ozonic).

    Aalacho

    My first impression is bitter green, and this is not just because the juice itself is green. It smells woody and antiseptic, a bit like the debris on the floor of a forest which has a mixture of evergreen and deciduous trees. It doesn't smell particularly clean or fresh, i.e., it doesn't really remind me of pine or spruce per se. Rather, it reminds me of the smell of decomposing wood, leaves and needles from aromatic conifer woods. I am wondering if this contains castoreum since I recall a slight herbal but sweet quality to that note. I don't get a sense of aromatic roots ("rootbeer"), but there is a vague sweetness present here. Late drydown is woody and creamy, not unlike Rose de Bois--sort of a vanilla sandalwood.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Thanks for posting, Asha.
    It is true, the "mothball" aspect of ambergris. It's musty.
    Aalacho was mystifying, wasn't it? In the middle notes, did it sweeten up for you? I'm curious to find out the notes. And I'm still puzzling over the lemony quality in the end. Since it waited until the base to come out, I'm wondering if it is verbena, lemongrass, or a particularly citrusy frankincense.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Thanks for posting, Asha.
    It is true, the "mothball" aspect of ambergris. It's musty.
    Aalacho was mystifying, wasn't it? In the middle notes, did it sweeten up for you? I'm curious to find out the notes. And I'm still puzzling over the lemony quality in the end. Since it waited until the base to come out, I'm wondering if it is verbena, lemongrass, or a particularly citrusy frankincense.
    Yes, Aalacho did turn more sweet in the middle, but it was very subtle. I sampled on paper, so it could possibly behave differently on skin. I did not smell lemon in the base, but again, it could be because it was on paper. Rosewood stays pretty lemony, so that could be a candidate (I am thinking of Habit Rouge which I wore frequently over the last two weeks--base is lemon vanilla with resins, probably benzoin). The base of Aalacho was quite reminiscent of Rose de Bois for me.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Samples arrived here from Purplebird7 yesterday. Will wear and post next week.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Samples arrived Saturday. I have been struggling with Aalacho My first impressions on paper and skin were extremely different. skin = CINNAMON with a bit of animal underneath,That is probably not really what is there it is just how my brain insists on interpreting some thing. On paper=green, maybe vetiver, no idea really. Nothing like on skin sigh... I will work with it some more. More in a day or two.

    Chilum is wonderful. I don't think I have any ginger predominant scents. This one is quite wonderful. Dry without a hint of sweetness. I think I could / will wear it but it is one of the few 'masculines' that really made me want to get to know a man who wears it.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    I'm with you, Whisper, I get something similar to cinnamon (incense?), but rather than animal, I get tropical humidity in the top notes. Aalacho is just a little more sweet than not (vanilla?). A toasty scent, it reminds me of New Haarlem minus the coffee. I find Aalacho to be a "homey" fragrance, but a little hot for my taste.

    Am I right in guessing that Persona and Aalacho have some notes in common?
    Last edited by Quarry; 7th April 2009 at 05:05 PM.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Persona and Aalacho?
    Okay, my guess for commonalities based on everyone's impressions would be frankincense and vetiver.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Ciao Quarry, at one point I shall post the brief that I received for Aalacho (with pe permission of the Basenoter for whom it was made). For this reason I am interested to read your descriptions, in order to see if they match the brief. This perfume has a special story among all my bespokes made online. You will discover it, if the smell arouses sufficient interest.
    The brief and story are more interesting than the ingredients for understanding this perfume.
    Last edited by Profumo; 7th April 2009 at 05:22 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  23. #23

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Aalacho again

    Totally different today. Much less cinnamon or whatever it is

    Vetiver? probably There is something else ‘green’ in here too maybe a few of them. I don’t have the words for what I a smelling but it reminds me more sitting quietly in a shaded park than of an herb or flower garden.

    Frankincense? Maybe but if so it seems sweeter somehow. And I do keep getting a bit of spice from somewhere.

    Persona? Yes they do seem related. But maybe no neroli in Aalacho.

    Early this morning I also wondered about Seawood so I got out my sample to compare. (from the website that has vetyver, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, ginger and ambergris) The color of Seawood more golden than green but there is some kinship to Aalacho there as well.

    It is a puzzle, a fun one but a definite puzzle.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Hi, all! I'm bad at numbers so just want to check.

    Let me know if this is incorrect:

    • This thread is team two now discussing package 3?

    • I'm on team 1 {no need to confirm that, I have it straight!] and team one has completed package 2 but not yet received package 3.


    Now if you can help me organize everything else in my life.....
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  25. #25
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    This should be team two's package two, but I don't know if our package was the same as team one's package two.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    This should be team two's package two, but I don't know if our package was the same as team one's package two.

    You devil, you! Thanks, Quarry!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 8th April 2009 at 02:40 PM.
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  27. #27

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    This is why I ike to think of you as "Aiona's group" and "Quarry's group", from the 2 persons that have organized them. Surely "Aiona's group first parcel" sounds better than "first group first parcel". Nostalgie is right, numbers put normal people into confusion. Bankers know that and take advantage of it.
    Last edited by Profumo; 8th April 2009 at 06:13 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Nostalgie is right, numbers put normal people into confusion. Bankers know that and take advantage of it.
    Yes!
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    I have profumo Ambergris . It's awful alone. I don't understand how you give out these samples...but this is an informative thread.

    Is this a good place to tell the world what I do in the late afternoon? I spray perfume on a puff brand Kleenex and put it in my 17 yr olds son's room before he arrives home. By 7 and 8 pm it smells so subtlety good in there! Yesterday was Noir Epic.. today will be something else. He doesn't even know it.
    Eliza
    (seems like vintage L'origan was made just for me)

  30. #30

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    This is why I ike to think of you as "Aiona's group" and "Quarry's group", from the 2 persons that have organized them. Surely "Aiona's group first parcel" sounds better than "first group first parcel". Nostalgie is right, numbers put normal people into confusion. Bankers know that and take advantage of it.

    Yes, indeed they do!!!!!

    I think I have it all sorted out now. I hope Aiona's group gets to play with the ambergris.
    I recently smelled two large chunks of it. One was obviously quite old (at the Osmotheque, where many of the sample elements have been opened and sniffed way too many times and need to be replaced). I found that older, more faded and dissipated ambergris very pleasant smelling.

    The other was newer, more recently found and acquired (smelled it in Etienne de Sward's office at Etat Libre d'Orange). My friend found the 'fresher" amber gris disgusting, unsmellable. Although it didn't make me want to roll around in it, i still found it appealing in a strange way.

    But then, I kind of liked the civet tincure, too.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
    My book reviews: http://www.nstperfume.com/author/Cheryl/

  31. #31

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    I smelled the other two samples on paper today:

    Chilum

    Starts very smoky and spicy. The smoke smells like that of a wood fire, and the spice smells like cinnamon to me. As the top notes settle, the smoky note lightens and a cedar wood note comes forward. Something in this blend smells like ammonia to me which makes me suspect an evergreen ingredient (I still have not determined what note gives this impression to me). Thank goodness it is very faint. There is a fruit note which could be a phantom note, or perhaps part of an accord--it seems to have a dry cherry quality. The overall effect is sort of like the smell I would expect from the inside of smoked white oak barrel, one that is used for aging whiskey.

    Cuba Express

    At the beginning Cuba Express smells of pepper and cardamom with a brief glimpse of orange or other citrus which quickly turns from juicy to more of a preserved or desiccated orange smell. With a name like Cuba Express, I am wondering if I should smell cigars or cigar-related notes. I have been in high-end cigar shops with walk-in humidors. Usually the smell is a combination of tobacco, cedar and some slight odors of fruit flavorings, usually cherry, and a sort of phantom whiskey note (scotch or bourbon). So, I suspect that Cuba Express has wood, tobacco and fruit. As CE develops, that is eventually what I smell--cedar wood, tobacco, and fruit and spices. The pepper and cardamom persist through the mid-development and give a hot, dry edge to the cedar. The dried orange also keeps going, but is much more faint as the tobacco and cedar take over. I am fascinated by this preserved fruit note. Overall, CE does smell very cigar-like, except for the fruit and spice which gives it a bit more of an interesting topography.

    Cuba Express is very challenging for me, even though I enjoy the fragrance. I have some kind of physical reaction to tobacco in leaf form and also in essential oil form--it makes me extremely nauseated. This is something I discovered very recently during the note identification project, and it has nothing to do with actually smoking any kind of tobacco (although smoking can also cause this reaction). If Chilum has tobacco, I can't really pick it out from the composition. However, there are some strong similarities to Cuba Express due to the wood and spice notes.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Good descriptons, Asha. In enjoyed reading them.
    You know, I am going to change the heading on my thread to "Quarry's Group, Second Parcel." That should clear everything up.
    Now the next person can name his or her thread accordingly--team leader, then parcel number.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 13th April 2009 at 01:44 PM.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    I've sampled Chilum, Cuba Express and tuberosa more than a couple times each and am finally getting around to posting my thoughts.

    Chilum smells dry, dusty and mildly spicey, like an old shop whose woodwork has absorbed the molecules of its pungent wares. The scent smells foreign to my experience, so I don't have names for the notes. I find them pleasing to encounter in passing, although the scent wouldn't fit my countenance. If I caught a whiff of Chilum from a passerby, I would stop him and ask what scent he was wearing because it's distinctive and unlike what I think of Americans as wearing. I guess the best summation of Chilum's impression on me is "foreign"--and I mean that in positive way. The only other thing I noticed about the scent is that it seems to fade fairly quickly on my skin.

    Cuba Express is stronger than Chilum, and it lasts longer. In fact, I'd call it forceful, and it makes me feel timid. There's a lot going on, like a raucous celebration that overwhelms me. The notes do not clash--they are harmonious in their way, but too hot for my mood.

    Tuberosa releases a surprising variety of impressions, from vegetal and sweet to an odor I equate with corn tortillas as my Mexican neighbors used to cook them, and then a white floral rises to the top. Each inhalation wipes away the previous impression and replaces it with an incongruous new impression like marzipan then crab rangoon. I must be experiencing some kind of progressive, intermitting blocking of smell receptors that allows these wild sensations. I can understand why this ingredient would prove fascinating for the perfumer to monkey with.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    It's fun to read of others' perception of ambergris. I-i-i-i-i-i like it. I could roll in the stuff. Yes, it's stinky, but good stinky. I find it rather sweet. I suppose the closest comparative would be cow rump--leathery, animalic, crusted with dried cow dung and hay. I wouldn't expect those around me to understand how comforting an aroma it can be to me.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    It's fun to read of others' perception of ambergris. I-i-i-i-i-i like it. I could roll in the stuff. Yes, it's stinky, but good stinky. I find it rather sweet. I suppose the closest comparative would be cow rump--leathery, animalic, crusted with dried cow dung and hay. I wouldn't expect those around me to understand how comforting an aroma it can be to me.
    You are the normal one Quarry! Very few women do not like the smell of Ambergris, and quite a lot just fall in love with it.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  36. #36

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Ambergris Tincture
    A little odd and strikes me as slightly fecal, but it’s very pleasant, even addictive. I keep pressing my nose to my wrist to get the sweetness that’s buried inside, because it’s really not that strong of an odor to my nose. It has a fluid silkiness. Again, I may be (am) highly suggestible but I get a salty briny sea vibe from it. My dog, who hates perfumes, was interested in this one. She was standing up on her hind legs to sniff my wrist.

    Castoreum
    It smells sweetish smoky-leathery, a bit barn animally, and slightly rubbery. It makes me think of a farm in autumn where piles of leaves are being burned. It’s a bit strong for me (especially in the morning before breakfast!) but I enjoy the autumnal wood fire associations. I wonder if a beaver den smells like this, if you could swim underwater and poke your head up inside one. I think Mr. and Mrs. Beaver’s home in C.S. Lewis’ The Lion, The Witch and the Wardobe smelled like this.

    Chilum
    Has that charred wood smell, as in Lake Flower, but stronger here. Also something rubbery (tuberose?). A bit of bitterness. Most of the profumo scents are sweet, but this one is astringent and rather strange smelling. I don’t mind it. It isn’t what I’d reach for, but it’s interesting.

    Cuba Express
    Peppery and smoky, tobacco. A bit medicinal. At first, the pepperiness reminded me of Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris, but this one is actually less sweet. A bit too masculine for me personally, but I like it.

    Aalacho
    Cinnamon and woodsy, which I like, but it strikes me as a bit musty. I think I need to try it again, but I don't care for the "musty" quality I'm getting.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I wonder if a beaver den smells like this, if you could swim underwater and poke your head up inside one. I think Mr. and Mrs. Beaver’s home in C.S. Lewis’ The Lion, The Witch and the Wardobe smelled like this.
    What charming imagery, fair lilybelle!
    Wouldn't scenting a children's book prove fun?
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    What charming imagery, fair lilybelle!
    Wouldn't scenting a children's book prove fun?
    Now that is a really good idea! Scratch 'n sniff fairy tales. I love that!

  39. #39

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Smokin’

    Tobacco, wood, flame and their by-products all speak very personally to me. They must be my “Scents of the Soul,” to use Abdus Salaam Attar’s terminology. I can admire the most exquisite floral while maintaining emotional distance and easily withstand the temptations of yummy or seductive orientals. Put me near dry or mossy woods and the battle is lost. Granted, my perfume essentials hall of fame holds a special place for citrus and all things green, but leather and smoke get to the heart of it.

    After the Fire - Cuba Express

    As the adult child of a doting and cigar-toting dad, I get what Abdus Salaam is saying here:

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Dear hirch_duckfinder,
    I am so glad the you like Tabac so much. You are right that many women like to wear it. Non smoker women mostly. Tabacco is for women an aroma heavily loaded with emotional value, because for many of them it is a smell attached to the father's figure. They find it comforting and reassuring.
    I balanced my childhood diet of wild cherry cough drops and play-doh with delights planted by Daddy, just for me, in the den. Am I the only one who happily gorged on matchheads with a light dusting of cigar ash? The Internet suggests this is a disease with its own name: Pica, but the medical experts are confused, and don’t know what good is. Bacon has nothing on a burnt match.

    Cuba Express combines the non smoker’s comfort I find in tobacco with the toasty char I craved as a child. Though I know it contains not rum, coffee and chocolate as well as tobacco, I experience cedar. An olfactory hallucination or something a chemist might explain? It sucks the moisture out of my brain, and paints my throat and brain with the pleasure of pipes, Connecticut shade-grown cigar wrappers and ashtrays.

    Into the Woods – Chillum

    Main problem with Chillum: Tough getting any work done with my wrist attached to my nose! I want to eat and drink it at the same time, dive in and live there. It is the best of early fun in my father’s humidor and the shenanigans we pulled in the peaty woods of New England. While Cuba Express lived a good life, has felt the burn and now delights me with its smoky remains, Chillum still breathes a moist greeting and delivers countless love bites (the ginger, no doubt) as I move with a springy step on a wooded path made not of dirt, but of unlit cigars.

    I recommended Chillum to someone who today announced that it reminds him of his grandfather's “oily Mediterranean skin...layers of earth, hands covered in oil from his John Deere tractor” and also of his “grandmother's pantry filled with every type of cured meat imaginable, ricotta salata, over-ripe persimmons...” Not to suggest that these notes are in Chillum, but three cheers for the power of a scent to evoke memories of summer vacations on the Amalfi coast.

    Next step, Tabac, and finding the thread where that lives...I confess that the geography of threads on profumo.it scents still holds mysteries for me.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    I got two new ones today, Amber Chocolate (listed as Chocolate Amber in the Directory) and Don Corleone. Both are beautiful, but they are quite different.

    Amber Chocolate - Gourmand lovers, if you're looking for a delicious, edible chocolate perfume, this one is fabulous. It is pure chocolate absolute and creamy vanilla combined to create a melt-in-your-mouth confectionery that manages to steer clear of too much sweetness. How does it accomplish that? By smelling just boozy enough to elicit images of a snifter full of Creme de Cacao. Maybe there's even a touch of Amaretto in there. It's mouthwatering. And, with the characteristics of an all-natural perfume, it is never overpowering--rather it smells clean and clear, even though it is decadent. This is a gorgeous chocolate fragrance, and an easy one to wear.

    Don Corleone - I put this perfume on, and the image of a handsome man in an expensive suit came to me. It is classy, stylish, and understated, rich and, "Oh! So Italian!" Right down to the polished shoes and the light scent of tobacco. It surprised me to find that tuberose and vanilla are also listed as notes. You would never suspect them. This is a man's perfume but really, it is unisex. If you haven't read my earlier posts, I was more than pleasantly surprised by Profumo's tuberose absolute. Wipe all images of Poison or Fracas from your minds, this tuberose is natural, fresh, and not very sweet. And it surpasses the tuberose absolute that I smelled last summer in the Note Identification Project, which smelled carnal and like rotten flowers. The tuberose in Don Corleone is of prime quality and highly enjoyable, but it is not a classic "floral" scent in the least. Nor does the vanilla dominate this fragrance, as it would in an Oriental. In fact, I don't know what olfactory group to include this fragrance in. It smells of the outdoors and of tobacco and of well-dressed men. I am impressed by Profumo's fragrances for men. They are original and a welcome change from the "fresh citrus and lavender" or the "sweet leather and wood" based department store colognes that smell so similar to one another. I like Don Corleone a lot.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Purplebird7, I was about to send you some of the samples I received from Profumo as I have had to leave the sampling group, but then I noticed you'd already smelled Rose des Bois! So confused! I guess because I've been missing in action.

    If you see this, drop me a line about which of Profumo's samples you haven't tried yet!

    Suffering from pregnancy brain, I fear,
    Aiona
    [I]"Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere."[/I] -- [URL="http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?p=1496120#post1496120"]Inselaffe[/URL]

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