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  1. #31
    Asha's Avatar
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    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    I smelled the other two samples on paper today:

    Chilum

    Starts very smoky and spicy. The smoke smells like that of a wood fire, and the spice smells like cinnamon to me. As the top notes settle, the smoky note lightens and a cedar wood note comes forward. Something in this blend smells like ammonia to me which makes me suspect an evergreen ingredient (I still have not determined what note gives this impression to me). Thank goodness it is very faint. There is a fruit note which could be a phantom note, or perhaps part of an accord--it seems to have a dry cherry quality. The overall effect is sort of like the smell I would expect from the inside of smoked white oak barrel, one that is used for aging whiskey.

    Cuba Express

    At the beginning Cuba Express smells of pepper and cardamom with a brief glimpse of orange or other citrus which quickly turns from juicy to more of a preserved or desiccated orange smell. With a name like Cuba Express, I am wondering if I should smell cigars or cigar-related notes. I have been in high-end cigar shops with walk-in humidors. Usually the smell is a combination of tobacco, cedar and some slight odors of fruit flavorings, usually cherry, and a sort of phantom whiskey note (scotch or bourbon). So, I suspect that Cuba Express has wood, tobacco and fruit. As CE develops, that is eventually what I smell--cedar wood, tobacco, and fruit and spices. The pepper and cardamom persist through the mid-development and give a hot, dry edge to the cedar. The dried orange also keeps going, but is much more faint as the tobacco and cedar take over. I am fascinated by this preserved fruit note. Overall, CE does smell very cigar-like, except for the fruit and spice which gives it a bit more of an interesting topography.

    Cuba Express is very challenging for me, even though I enjoy the fragrance. I have some kind of physical reaction to tobacco in leaf form and also in essential oil form--it makes me extremely nauseated. This is something I discovered very recently during the note identification project, and it has nothing to do with actually smoking any kind of tobacco (although smoking can also cause this reaction). If Chilum has tobacco, I can't really pick it out from the composition. However, there are some strong similarities to Cuba Express due to the wood and spice notes.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Profumo: Team Two - More Sampling Impressions

    Good descriptons, Asha. In enjoyed reading them.
    You know, I am going to change the heading on my thread to "Quarry's Group, Second Parcel." That should clear everything up.
    Now the next person can name his or her thread accordingly--team leader, then parcel number.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 13th April 2009 at 01:44 PM.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    I've sampled Chilum, Cuba Express and tuberosa more than a couple times each and am finally getting around to posting my thoughts.

    Chilum smells dry, dusty and mildly spicey, like an old shop whose woodwork has absorbed the molecules of its pungent wares. The scent smells foreign to my experience, so I don't have names for the notes. I find them pleasing to encounter in passing, although the scent wouldn't fit my countenance. If I caught a whiff of Chilum from a passerby, I would stop him and ask what scent he was wearing because it's distinctive and unlike what I think of Americans as wearing. I guess the best summation of Chilum's impression on me is "foreign"--and I mean that in positive way. The only other thing I noticed about the scent is that it seems to fade fairly quickly on my skin.

    Cuba Express is stronger than Chilum, and it lasts longer. In fact, I'd call it forceful, and it makes me feel timid. There's a lot going on, like a raucous celebration that overwhelms me. The notes do not clash--they are harmonious in their way, but too hot for my mood.

    Tuberosa releases a surprising variety of impressions, from vegetal and sweet to an odor I equate with corn tortillas as my Mexican neighbors used to cook them, and then a white floral rises to the top. Each inhalation wipes away the previous impression and replaces it with an incongruous new impression like marzipan then crab rangoon. I must be experiencing some kind of progressive, intermitting blocking of smell receptors that allows these wild sensations. I can understand why this ingredient would prove fascinating for the perfumer to monkey with.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    It's fun to read of others' perception of ambergris. I-i-i-i-i-i like it. I could roll in the stuff. Yes, it's stinky, but good stinky. I find it rather sweet. I suppose the closest comparative would be cow rump--leathery, animalic, crusted with dried cow dung and hay. I wouldn't expect those around me to understand how comforting an aroma it can be to me.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    It's fun to read of others' perception of ambergris. I-i-i-i-i-i like it. I could roll in the stuff. Yes, it's stinky, but good stinky. I find it rather sweet. I suppose the closest comparative would be cow rump--leathery, animalic, crusted with dried cow dung and hay. I wouldn't expect those around me to understand how comforting an aroma it can be to me.
    You are the normal one Quarry! Very few women do not like the smell of Ambergris, and quite a lot just fall in love with it.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  6. #36

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Ambergris Tincture
    A little odd and strikes me as slightly fecal, but itís very pleasant, even addictive. I keep pressing my nose to my wrist to get the sweetness thatís buried inside, because itís really not that strong of an odor to my nose. It has a fluid silkiness. Again, I may be (am) highly suggestible but I get a salty briny sea vibe from it. My dog, who hates perfumes, was interested in this one. She was standing up on her hind legs to sniff my wrist.

    Castoreum
    It smells sweetish smoky-leathery, a bit barn animally, and slightly rubbery. It makes me think of a farm in autumn where piles of leaves are being burned. Itís a bit strong for me (especially in the morning before breakfast!) but I enjoy the autumnal wood fire associations. I wonder if a beaver den smells like this, if you could swim underwater and poke your head up inside one. I think Mr. and Mrs. Beaverís home in C.S. Lewisí The Lion, The Witch and the Wardobe smelled like this.

    Chilum
    Has that charred wood smell, as in Lake Flower, but stronger here. Also something rubbery (tuberose?). A bit of bitterness. Most of the profumo scents are sweet, but this one is astringent and rather strange smelling. I donít mind it. It isnít what Iíd reach for, but itís interesting.

    Cuba Express
    Peppery and smoky, tobacco. A bit medicinal. At first, the pepperiness reminded me of Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris, but this one is actually less sweet. A bit too masculine for me personally, but I like it.

    Aalacho
    Cinnamon and woodsy, which I like, but it strikes me as a bit musty. I think I need to try it again, but I don't care for the "musty" quality I'm getting.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I wonder if a beaver den smells like this, if you could swim underwater and poke your head up inside one. I think Mr. and Mrs. Beaverís home in C.S. Lewisí The Lion, The Witch and the Wardobe smelled like this.
    What charming imagery, fair lilybelle!
    Wouldn't scenting a children's book prove fun?
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    What charming imagery, fair lilybelle!
    Wouldn't scenting a children's book prove fun?
    Now that is a really good idea! Scratch 'n sniff fairy tales. I love that!

  9. #39

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Smokiní

    Tobacco, wood, flame and their by-products all speak very personally to me. They must be my ďScents of the Soul,Ē to use Abdus Salaam Attarís terminology. I can admire the most exquisite floral while maintaining emotional distance and easily withstand the temptations of yummy or seductive orientals. Put me near dry or mossy woods and the battle is lost. Granted, my perfume essentials hall of fame holds a special place for citrus and all things green, but leather and smoke get to the heart of it.

    After the Fire - Cuba Express

    As the adult child of a doting and cigar-toting dad, I get what Abdus Salaam is saying here:

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Dear hirch_duckfinder,
    I am so glad the you like Tabac so much. You are right that many women like to wear it. Non smoker women mostly. Tabacco is for women an aroma heavily loaded with emotional value, because for many of them it is a smell attached to the father's figure. They find it comforting and reassuring.
    I balanced my childhood diet of wild cherry cough drops and play-doh with delights planted by Daddy, just for me, in the den. Am I the only one who happily gorged on matchheads with a light dusting of cigar ash? The Internet suggests this is a disease with its own name: Pica, but the medical experts are confused, and donít know what good is. Bacon has nothing on a burnt match.

    Cuba Express combines the non smokerís comfort I find in tobacco with the toasty char I craved as a child. Though I know it contains not rum, coffee and chocolate as well as tobacco, I experience cedar. An olfactory hallucination or something a chemist might explain? It sucks the moisture out of my brain, and paints my throat and brain with the pleasure of pipes, Connecticut shade-grown cigar wrappers and ashtrays.

    Into the Woods Ė Chillum

    Main problem with Chillum: Tough getting any work done with my wrist attached to my nose! I want to eat and drink it at the same time, dive in and live there. It is the best of early fun in my fatherís humidor and the shenanigans we pulled in the peaty woods of New England. While Cuba Express lived a good life, has felt the burn and now delights me with its smoky remains, Chillum still breathes a moist greeting and delivers countless love bites (the ginger, no doubt) as I move with a springy step on a wooded path made not of dirt, but of unlit cigars.

    I recommended Chillum to someone who today announced that it reminds him of his grandfather's ďoily Mediterranean skin...layers of earth, hands covered in oil from his John Deere tractorĒ and also of his ďgrandmother's pantry filled with every type of cured meat imaginable, ricotta salata, over-ripe persimmons...Ē Not to suggest that these notes are in Chillum, but three cheers for the power of a scent to evoke memories of summer vacations on the Amalfi coast.

    Next step, Tabac, and finding the thread where that lives...I confess that the geography of threads on profumo.it scents still holds mysteries for me.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    I got two new ones today, Amber Chocolate (listed as Chocolate Amber in the Directory) and Don Corleone. Both are beautiful, but they are quite different.

    Amber Chocolate - Gourmand lovers, if you're looking for a delicious, edible chocolate perfume, this one is fabulous. It is pure chocolate absolute and creamy vanilla combined to create a melt-in-your-mouth confectionery that manages to steer clear of too much sweetness. How does it accomplish that? By smelling just boozy enough to elicit images of a snifter full of Creme de Cacao. Maybe there's even a touch of Amaretto in there. It's mouthwatering. And, with the characteristics of an all-natural perfume, it is never overpowering--rather it smells clean and clear, even though it is decadent. This is a gorgeous chocolate fragrance, and an easy one to wear.

    Don Corleone - I put this perfume on, and the image of a handsome man in an expensive suit came to me. It is classy, stylish, and understated, rich and, "Oh! So Italian!" Right down to the polished shoes and the light scent of tobacco. It surprised me to find that tuberose and vanilla are also listed as notes. You would never suspect them. This is a man's perfume but really, it is unisex. If you haven't read my earlier posts, I was more than pleasantly surprised by Profumo's tuberose absolute. Wipe all images of Poison or Fracas from your minds, this tuberose is natural, fresh, and not very sweet. And it surpasses the tuberose absolute that I smelled last summer in the Note Identification Project, which smelled carnal and like rotten flowers. The tuberose in Don Corleone is of prime quality and highly enjoyable, but it is not a classic "floral" scent in the least. Nor does the vanilla dominate this fragrance, as it would in an Oriental. In fact, I don't know what olfactory group to include this fragrance in. It smells of the outdoors and of tobacco and of well-dressed men. I am impressed by Profumo's fragrances for men. They are original and a welcome change from the "fresh citrus and lavender" or the "sweet leather and wood" based department store colognes that smell so similar to one another. I like Don Corleone a lot.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Profumo Samples: Quarry's Group - Second Parcel

    Purplebird7, I was about to send you some of the samples I received from Profumo as I have had to leave the sampling group, but then I noticed you'd already smelled Rose des Bois! So confused! I guess because I've been missing in action.

    If you see this, drop me a line about which of Profumo's samples you haven't tried yet!

    Suffering from pregnancy brain, I fear,
    Aiona
    "Embrace those things which give you pleasure, after all, there is so much mediocrity to endure elsewhere." -- Inselaffe

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