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  1. #1

    Default List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Looking for a comprehensive list of traditional Eau de Colognes .
    I found that generally they fall into two styles.
    Acidic , ie, 4711 , and the less common , powdery , ie. Cologne Sologne , Parfums de Nicolai .
    Is there a consensus basenote favorite ?
    Last edited by EdeC; 4th April 2009 at 10:02 PM.
    “love lasts a long time, but burning desire, two or three weeks.”

  2. #2

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    A comprehensive list is impossible - there are so many. Also it depends on where you draw the line.The line between a citrus perfume and an eau can be tricky to draw. I personally don't think Eau Sauvage is a classic Eau. Is eau D'Orange Verte a classic eau? What about Creed Bois de Cedrat? etc.

    There are lots of little local ones too....

    Anyway- a few which spring to mind


    Acqua di Parma Colonia
    Acqua di Colonia - Villoresi
    Eau de Guerlain
    Eau de Flears de Cedrat - Guerlain
    Eau du Coq - Guerlain
    Imperiale - Guerlain
    4711
    Jean Marie Farina - Roger&Gallet
    Cologne - Geo F Trumper

    I'll add more as I remember them...
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  3. #3

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Here are some conversation starters:
    Traditional Edc
    Classic Eau De Cologne type frags
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  4. #4
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Habit Rouge Edc would definitely be at or near the top of my list.
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  5. #5

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by kbe View Post
    Habit Rouge Edc would definitely be at or near the top of my list.
    The term "classic" or "traditional" Eau de Cologne is usally used to mean the old citrus eaux - bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, neroli, rosemary and various other bits and pieces rather than EDC as a strength.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 4th April 2009 at 07:35 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  6. #6

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Hirch Duckfinder , you bring up an essential point ; what is a classic EdeC ?
    According to Wikipedia:
    "Cologne or Eau de Cologne is a toiletry, a perfume in a style of that originated from Cologne, Germany.
    In a base of dilute ethanol (70-90%), Eau de Cologne contains a mixture of citrus oils including oils of lemon, orange, tangerine, bergamot, lime, grapefruit and neroli. It can also contain oils of lavender, rosemary, thyme, petitgrain (orange leaf), and jasmine."

    There are also EdT like EdC , ie. Fragonard Cologne Grand Luxe .
    “love lasts a long time, but burning desire, two or three weeks.”

  7. #7
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    The term "classic" or "traditional" Eau de Cologne is usally used to mean the old citrus eaux - bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, neroli, rosemary and various other bits and pieces rather than EDC as a strength.
    I agree with your definition of classic or traditional but are you saying that Habit Rouge does not qualify for that category? (I find I prefer the Edc over other formulations).
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  8. #8
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    How about Eau Fraiche (Dior)?

  9. #9

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by kbe View Post
    I agree with your definition of classic or traditional but are you saying that Habit Rouge does not qualify for that category? (I find I prefer the Edc over other formulations).
    Yes, I wouldn't put Habit Rouge in that catagory at all. The EDC is my my favouirite Habit Rouge too.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  10. #10
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    Yes, I wouldn't put Habit Rouge in that catagory at all. The EDC is my my favouirite Habit Rouge too.
    I see. Thanks for clarifying.
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  11. #11

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by kbe View Post
    I see. Thanks for clarifying.
    Its confusing because Habit Rouge EDC is a classic and is an EDC . Habit Rouge is usually though of as an oriental.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  12. #12

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I edited Classic to traditional in my post ; unable to edit the title however.
    “love lasts a long time, but burning desire, two or three weeks.”

  13. #13

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Adding to hirch's list:
    Farina Gegenüber dem Jülichsplatz - the original, first Eau de Cologne
    Berdoues EdC No. 444 Extra Vieille
    Acqua di Genova
    Caswell Massey No. 6
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  14. #14

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    article from Pravda.ru:

    Eau de Cologne celebrates 300th anniversary in 2009

    The predecessor of all perfumes, the original Eau de Cologne, Kolnisch Wasser in German, created by a perfumer from Cologne (Germany) in 1709, will celebrate its 300th anniversary this year.
    Eau de Cologne has become a widely recognized brand in the world of perfume. There is no perfume maker in the world today that does not have an Eau de Cologne in its product range. However, Eau de Cologne has nothing in common with the original Kolnisch Wasser, because it is only Cologne-based perfumers that are entitled to make and sell this product.

    The water created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 is considered to be the oldest and the genuine smell of the Kolnisch Wasser. The perfumer presented his creation in 1709 opposite Cologne’s Julichplatz, where the office of the perfume maker still exists today. This is the only place where the ancestor of all Eau de Colognes is produced.

    Farina is a very old brand. Farina Gegenuber Museum represents the entire history of the Kolnisch Wasser. The perfumer created his renowned perfume from a mixture of oils of lime, orange, bergamot, tangerine, cedar, grapefruit and neroli. The toilet water also contains the oils of lavender, rosemary, thyme, petitgrain (orange leaf), and jasmine.

    In 1708, Farina wrote to his brother Jean Baptiste: "I have found a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain". He named his fragrance Eau de Cologne, in honor of his new hometown.

    Farina’s formula still remains a secret today. Other Colognes, such as the famous Cologne 4711, named after its location at "Glockengasse No. 4711", have the name in common but smell different.

    Eau de Cologne by Farina was the favorite perfume of many royal houses in Europe. A bottle of Farina’s perfume with its traditional red tulip still remains an inspiration for many renowned designers and artists. Marc Jacobs, for instance, created a collection of wonderful fragrances for the scent of Cologne.

    Cologne earned the reputation of the city of perfumers in the 18th century, owing to Eau de Cologne. Nowadays, Eau de Cologne has become a generic term for light fragrances, or scented water, made of 70 percent of ethanol and up to five percent of aromatic substances.
    “love lasts a long time, but burning desire, two or three weeks.”

  15. #15

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I would add Chanel EDC to the list.
    Evenstar

  16. #16

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I have these colognes:

    4711
    Chanel Eau de Cologne
    Miller Harris Tangerine Vert
    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta (although it is technically a fougere)
    Royall Lyme
    Royall Mandarine
    Profumo Morning Blossom

    I love traditional cologne, and would like to explore more of them. I have tried the Comme des Garcons Cologne Series and Guerlain Cologne du 68. Cologne du 68 has some great potential, but it was not instant love for me. I have a bar of Roger and Gallet Jean Marie Farina soap, and it smells of a gorgeous bergamot, neroli and petitgrain accord.

  17. #17

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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Habit Rouge is an oriental - the patchouli and vanilla in the drydown is what really differentiates it from being a 'cologne'. The informal definition is a citrus top with a woody/herbal drydown. There is also an implied lightness to the composition and concentration. Hirshy-Dee is right that Eau Sauvage is difficult to categorize (because of the floral/hedione elements), but were it to be classified as a cologne (a unique one), it wouldn't be wrong. Similarly Creed's Bois de Cedrat, which is woodier from the beginning, can be categorized either as a cologne or a citrus.

    Some others to consider:

    Hermes Eau d'Orange Vert is certainly a cologne - a damn good one, too.
    CdG Citrico
    Parfumerie Generale Cologne Grand Siecle
    Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Colonia (also just called "Santa Maria Novella")
    Dior Cologne Blanche
    Dyptique L'Eau de Neroli
    Etat Libre d'Orange Je Suis en Homme (patchouli added in drydown that makes it slightly non-traditional)

    If you want to stretch the definition a bit, Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune could be a cologne (regardless of it's category, it's damn good).

  18. #18

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    The term "classic" or "traditional" Eau de Cologne is usally used to mean the old citrus eaux - bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, neroli, rosemary and various other bits and pieces rather than EDC as a strength.
    This is my understanding as well.

    To my knowledge, all Eau de Colognes in the "traditional" style are classified as belonging to the Citrus family of fragrances. Typically, Citrus - subcategory Classical.

    Over the years, EdC has also become a generic term describing the relative strength of all fragrances. Further complicating matters in the United States, at one time many EdT-strength fragrances were labeled "colognes" here for marketing purposes.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  19. #19
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Add to the list: Cologne a La Russe, Cologne a La Francaise and Cologne a l'Italienne all by Institut Très Bien

  20. #20

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Penhaligon's Castile would fall into this category, too, i would imagine. I just picked it up and its heavenly.

  21. #21

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    I have these colognes:

    4711
    Chanel Eau de Cologne
    Miller Harris Tangerine Vert
    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta (although it is technically a fougere)
    Royall Lyme
    Royall Mandarine
    Profumo Morning Blossom
    I don't include Tangerine Vert as a cologne because it is EdP strength and wears like one too.

  22. #22

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentsitivity View Post
    I don't include Tangerine Vert as a cologne because it is EdP strength and wears like one too.
    Really? Its longevity is so short, I thought for sure it would not be anything more than an EDT. At any rate, I name it because of its character more than its strength. To me, it has classic cologne water qualities.

  23. #23

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Really? Its longevity is so short, I thought for sure it would not be anything more than an EDT. At any rate, I name it because of its character more than its strength. To me, it has classic cologne water qualities.
    My bottle says EdP. I do agree that it is short-lived as such (the shortest-lived EdP that I own).

  24. #24

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I find Patricia de Nicolai's eaux de colognes to be immensely satisfying. I own three:

    Cologne Sologne
    The most "classic", IMO, with its clarion-clear neroli.

    Cologne Nature
    Lime, linden, and very subtle floral traces

    Cedrat
    Zingy citrus with a very firm underpinning of patchouli and sandalwood

    They're all very different from each other, as you can tell, but they share a common trait of being balanced and sophisticated. They may be light fragrances as far as longevity, but simplistic or one-note they are not!

  25. #25

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Not sure if they'll officially count, but AFA how they smell, I'd def. include Maitre's Fraiche Badiane and Eau Pour Le Jeune homme.

    Would Molinard's new "Freshness" Line count?
    Double Fraicheur, Eau de Verveine, eau De Citrus ?

    How About Roger & Gallet's new "Cologne" ?

  26. #26

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I definitely would count MPG's L'Eau Pour Le Jeune Homme as a classic-style edc. Love the rosemary note that creeps out after the opening.

  27. #27

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    To those who love the Chanel Eau de Cologne from the Exclusifs - may I ask what exactly sets this one apart?

  28. #28
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    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    I received an answer to the following email question I put to Guerlain a couple of days ago:

    (email to Guerlain, Paris was similar but not exactly as the below--copy not available)

    Sirs:

    I wonder if you would be kind enough to answer a question I have concerning Classic and Traditional Colognes. Do you consider Habit Rouge to be in either category?

    Thank you in advance for your answer.

    Sincerely,

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Dear Sir,

    I acknowledge receipt of your mail dated 4/4/2009 and I thank you for sending it.

    I can't notice a difference between traditional or classic. For us, it is the same thing.
    VETIVER, HABIT ROUGE are classical perfume.


    Thank you for your interest in our brand.

    Yours faithfully,

    Isabelle ROUSSEAU
    Customer Relationship Department
    irousseau@guerlain.fr


    I wonder if Mme. Rousseau fully understood my meaning as to 'classic' and 'traditional' as she referenced "perfume"..
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  29. #29

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Please, add to the list Colonia Russa by Santa Maria Novella: wonderful and masculine citrus + musk

  30. #30

    Default Re: List of Classic Eau de Colognes ?

    Xerox is to Eau de Cologne (traditional citrus) as xerox (generic term for copy) is to eau de cologne (generic term for fragrance strength)
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

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