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  1. #1

    Default Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I'm almost afraid to review anything complex nowadays - my opinions tend to change so much over time!

    La Myrrhe is one of those fragrances. At first, the impression was quite unpleasant - shrill, shrieking aldehydes over myrrh. How or why my thoughts on this have changed so much on giving it a second try four or so months later baffles me, but none the less this is the same fragrance.

    The opening is soapy, bright and aldehydic. The effect is very transparent and effervescent, and only ever so slightly citrusy to my nose. This is not a Five Alive note, just the ghost of an orange amid the aldehydes ( and quite possibly an impression created by them ).

    Slowly the dour, aggressive note of myrrh emerges and begins to color the fragrance. I'm a myrrh fan, and this isn't a softened retouched myrrh note one occasionally finds. No Lutenesque syrup or ambery base here. It's a myrrh iceberg hitting a gossamer Titanic, and the effect is not exactly "pretty", but quite arresting.

    In the base the myrrh is very bitter and its rubbery medicinal qualities seem to be amplified by a subtle aniseed. Though not a sweet fragrance at the start, all sweetness has evaporated after the first four hours, leaving this is a dry, dry fragrance that's perfectly smooth ( the latter being the more remarkable achievement in a myrrh fragrance ).

    The sillage is moderate - this has nothing on Ambre Sultan, Tubereuse Criminelle or similar Lutens - but quite decent, only tending to wear close to the skin after eight hours or so. Longevity is around twelve to sixteen hours on me, though it lingers on faintly after.

    My opinon went from ugly to beatiful on this one, so I have no clue whether it's worth recommending. Cool, austere, attractive yet uninviting, it's a lunar landscape of a fragrance. It's certainly art.

    Today I received a CD of Olivier Messiaen's Eclairs Sur L'Au Dela. La Myrrhe reminds me of the the fourth movement, Demeurer Dans L'Amour, in that it's both ethereal, yet strangely ominous. ( Here's a Youtube, though the sound quality is bad. )

    Any thoughts on this fragrance? It's been a while since there's been a thread on it.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I love La Myrrhe. I found it very difficult at first too...sometimes myrrhe makes me feel a bit sick to my stomach for some reason, but it truly is a unique and beautiful scent. *fingers crossed for ltd ed. release into the export line*

  3. #3

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    As a myrrh fan this has been love at first sniff: it's not probably the most hooking scent at first sniff in the Lutens line, like let's say Fumerie Turque (which I own in belljar and that is another fave of mines). Though this fragrance has a kind of magic.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Like sofresh, myrrh isn't my friend. The only fragrance I enjoy that features it is Santalum by Profumum. Otherwise, it really annoys me.

    However recently, I sniffed a vial I just got of Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal (not sure if I like it yet) and when reading the review in the Perfumes The Guide update, they mention that the Lutens myrrh scent is the better myrrh scent. This is one of the Lutens scents I still haven't smelled.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Like sofresh, myrrh isn't my friend. The only fragrance I enjoy that features it is Santalum by Profumum. Otherwise, it really annoys me.

    However recently, I sniffed a vial I just got of Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal (not sure if I like it yet) and when reading the review in the Perfumes The Guide update, they mention that the Lutens myrrh scent is the better myrrh scent. This is one of the Lutens scents I still haven't smelled.
    it's worth trying...La Myrrhe is unlike any other rendition of myrrhe on the market. It nods to El Attarine, but in a less oriental manner.

    Myrrhe Ardente just smells like rootbeer to me...

  6. #6

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    ...Slowly the dour, aggressive note of myrrh emerges and begins to color the fragrance. I'm a myrrh fan, and this isn't a softened retouched myrrh note one occasionally finds. No Lutenesque syrup or ambery base here. It's a myrrh iceberg hitting a gossamer Titanic, and the effect is not exactly "pretty", but quite arresting.
    ...In the base the myrrh is very bitter and its rubbery medicinal qualities seem to be amplified by a subtle aniseed. Though not a sweet fragrance at the start, all sweetness has evaporated after the first four hours, leaving this is a dry, dry fragrance that's perfectly smooth ( the latter being the more remarkable achievement in a myrrh fragrance ).
    ...Cool, austere, attractive yet uninviting, it's a lunar landscape of a fragrance. It's certainly art.
    Well, you have certainly written a compelling review, GB. These cool, austere notes are quite atypical for Lutens -- and sound terrific to me! Now I'll have to check this out. I respect your knowledge of myrrh.
    Cheers,
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  7. #7

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Well, you have certainly written a compelling review, GB. These cool, austere notes are quite atypical for Lutens -- and sound terrific to me! Now I'll have to check this out. I respect your knowledge of myrrh.
    Cheers,
    I know you're not fond of some of the sweet oriental bases out there, so this one is definitely worth checking into with no fear of those ( despite an entirely inexplicable mention of "amber" in the official notes ). I know you like L'Eau Trois, and while it's is a very different treatment of the myrrh note, I'd say they have a comparable level of sweetness.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Like sofresh, myrrh isn't my friend. The only fragrance I enjoy that features it is Santalum by Profumum. Otherwise, it really annoys me.

    However recently, I sniffed a vial I just got of Myrrhe Ardente by Annick Goutal (not sure if I like it yet) and when reading the review in the Perfumes The Guide update, they mention that the Lutens myrrh scent is the better myrrh scent. This is one of the Lutens scents I still haven't smelled.
    Unfortunately I haven't tried either of those so I can't compare the two notes. The myrrh note here is unique though - there's really nothing else like it out there. I won't call it the "definitive" myrrh the way I feel Iris Silver Mist is to iris, but like ISM and Rose de Nuit, it's a really bold, unusual take on a common note.

    Myrrh can be a tricky note to pull off. I think Bertrand Duchaufour went a little nuts with it in the Eau D'Italie line ( I think it works in Paestum Rose, but I don't like its use in Bois D'Ombrie and Baume du Doge ).

  8. #8

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Because of the shrieking aldehydes which started to get on my nerves and the overdose of bitter almond, I don't wear La Myrrhe anymore...but for anyone looking for a niche frag featuring high quality somalian myrrh, La Myrrhe might fit the bill (provided they can withstand the bucketloads of bitter almond in the base).
    -

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I finished my sample of this today, and I really love it.

    As has already been mentioned above, this one all about the myrrhe, aldehydes and almond - the combination smells almost waxy...like those plastic coke bottle candies that you bite to release the sweet juice inside. The overall effect is resinous and at the same time fizzy. Very hard to describe.

    I think it is one of the few Lutens that also smells fantastic in warm weather - today at my office seemed particularly warm (maybe the AC was not working right?) so I was sweaty all day under by jacket at my desk, but this stuff didn't get cloying or sticky (like many Lutens do) at all.

    This needs to get more hype here on BN. A shame this is almost impossible to smell, unless you get a bell jar from Paris.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post
    As a myrrh fan this has been love at first sniff: it's not probably the most hooking scent at first sniff in the Lutens line, like let's say Fumerie Turque (which I own in belljar and that is another fave of mines). Though this fragrance has a kind of magic.
    I am a perfume lover from way back.....however, all I've had was Un Lys, Fleur de Oranger, and Chergui...
    I just tried La Myrrhe..........ahhhhhhhh............I do not know why?.........Not sure what it is that makes this one for me???? I love it!!

  11. #11

    Red face Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    GOOD NEWS!!! Just heard from Paris....
    La Myrrhe will be available in the U.S. Spring 2012!! In the bell jar....
    I'm thrilled it'll be available!!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Quote Originally Posted by glorious1 View Post
    I'm thrilled it'll be available!!
    You and many more I am sure!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I still cant decide if this smells like acrid cleaning products, or the amazingly decadent and intricate hallways that the aforementioned acrid cleaning products were used to shine & polish . It took me almost two years to get over the shock/heartbreak of my initial (extreme) distaste for this fragrance. I'm going through a new sample now and it's still one of those scents I can't make up my mind about.

    Sometimes I'll catch a whiff of it and it smells so alien, aldehydic and adventurous, and other times I'll catch the scent and, without even being conscious I'm wearing it, my mind is instantly thinking of cleaning products.. the aldehyde sharpness of scented wood polish. I'd imagine if I wasn't into perfume at all and someone wearing La Myrrhe sat next to me I'd find it rather unpleasant (and a little too loud/demanding of attention) but when I want a challenging scent to wear around the house this one fits the bill.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I bought this blind about two years ago and still love it. It's such a unique and fascinating combination with the most wonderful myrrh lingering on literally forever. The initial sweetness is a bit demanding, but it soon settles down to a comfortable level. Inititally it smelled very similar, a tad sweeter, to a 15 years old No. 5 EdP I once compared it with.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I recently bought a bell jar from Palais Royal and, while I'm not amongst the biggest fans of Lutens, this stuff is absolutely terrific.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  16. #16

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Nice post which leaves me even more intrigued to try La Myrrhe. Myrrhe is a fascinating ingridient, I have a small vial of the raw stuff and it is such a complex smell with glassy, rubbery, latex, mushroom, licorice. It is difficult to sit well in a composition which makes it even more interesting when folks recommend examples.

    I have Myrrhe Adente which does have quite a root beer feeling, but my childs sweet tooth loves this. The recent Guerlain Myrre et Delires is also worth trying as Guerlain tame myrrhe of course using a expertly judged vanilla.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    I am afraid I can't stand this stuff. The aldehydes at the open are way over the top and cloying to the extreme. Unfortunately they hang around for most of the scent's development on my skin, and as myrrh is not a note I enjoy to begin with I can say with complete certainty that of all the Lutens I have tried I like this the least of them.
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    The only myrrh scent I've tried is Slumberhouse Rume.

    Can anyone compare La Myrrhe to Rume?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    La Myrrhe, like so many other Lutens that I initially found strange and unwearable, starts of with a blast of aldehydes. Upon my first ever application, I conjured a distinct scent memory, and knew that I had smelled it somewhere before. The fond memory that I had was of a girl that I took home from the club, back when I was so inclined to do so, that had had too many of those fizzy fruit drinks and had thrown up(vomited for those not familiar with the vernacular), horrid. Needless to say that I no longer get that connection when I wear La Myrrhe and find it absolutely heavenly.
    The initial aldehydic blast of La Myrrhe is bright with hints of orange, lime and other exotic citrus fruits, and has a cleanliness that I don't associate with aquatics, the only way that I can describe it as it's cleanly in an oriental/middle eastern way. On me this initial blast last for 5-10 minutes or so. After that I start to get some of the clean mandarin, I say clean because the mandarin here is similar to the in SL's Mandarine Mandarin without the smoke. As it wears the shade becomes darker and more "grounded" like a bright dark red, not burgundy, from the myrrhe. Vanilla is not listed in the notes, but about two hours in I get hints of it that blend well with the myrrhe, making it a little creamy, but never really sweet. I frequently burn myrrhe resin and at this point it smells like it, just more concentrated. In the deeper dry down I get myrrhe, vanilla and the pimento and even a light clove fragrance, it's beautiful stuff. Longevity is about 8-10 hours on skin and days on clothing, it's also a scent that I catch whiffs off of throughout the day, sillage is moderate.
    I also find that La Myrrhe performs different when dabbed vs sprayed. I would have thought that dabbing would produce a denser scent, but it doesn't. When dabbed, the aldehydes seem to last longer and the scent overall is brighter. When atomized it's as if it jumps right to the mandarin and myrrhe, with the myrrhe being heavier and slightly bitter, dab in summer, spray in winter.

    PS, I don't know what the f@:k those dudes put in this stuff or how much they paid for it, but I do get the impression that the ingredients are of very high quality.
    Last edited by PEARL; 23rd June 2012 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Content

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Lutens La Myrrhe - from horrid to heavenly...

    Gosh, I'm so glad I don't get the 'cleaning products' association that others do, from this one.

    I will admit, when I first was on BN, I detested aldehydic prominent scents, and learning to enjoy La Myrrhe was one of the fragrances (along with Chant de Aromes and Noir Epices) that changed my nose. Now, I love it. Unlike some 'buttery' aldehydes, the ones in LM smell like fizzy champagne with a bit of sulfur...sounds horrible but I love that smell.

    I cannot imagine owning a bell jar but I think I would enjoy a decant of it one of these days (my sample is all gone).

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by glorious1 View Post
    GOOD NEWS!!! Just heard from Paris....
    La Myrrhe will be available in the U.S. Spring 2012!! In the bell jar....
    I'm thrilled it'll be available!!
    Was this just a rumour? I don't remember seeing it being sold this past Spring??
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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