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  1. #1
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Forget aromatic fougeres and chypres! As of my wardrobe and the continous trying of scents, I came up with this very arbitrary criteria for classifying fragrances:

    1. Gentlemanly scents: notes centred on subtlety rather than notoriousness. Thus, they are not blended with the intention of wearers demanding attention. Mostly described as skin scents. Classy, indeed, but, for many, boring. Usually, blends are based on hesperidic notes, but not limited to these. Ex: Monsieur de Givenchy, Eau Sauvage, Chanel pour Monsieur, Dunhill 1934, etc.

    2. Initially updated, now a little dated gentlemanly scents and hyped versions of classic: take the previous description, but turn the notes on with whichever essence in hand. Ex: Bowling Green. Regarding the last type: Narciso Rodirguez for Him, a musky version of Jean Claude Ellena's Eau de Campagne designed for Sisley in 1954.

    3. Contemporary citrous / marine template: scents resorting to bergamot notes usually respectful of wearers thinking that scents being smell by passers-bye might qualify them as flamboyant - at best -, or GaGCB ("gay as gay can be") at worst. The usual stuff found everywhere: Duty Free shops, high-end perfume stores, drugstores and supermarkets. Longevity and sillage are nil. Ex; CK ONe, Aqua Di Gio.

    4. Contempary woody / oriental template: same as before, plenty of chocolate notes and / or coffe notes and / or vanilla and / or any gourmand notes (of course, this excepts gourmand notes like fried fish, beef, broccoli, etc). These are for the ones daring to smell and / or being noted. Ex: Armani Code.

    5. Contemprary cedar template: according to threads and posts here in BN, blame it on Iso E Super. It would be like # 4 with a little bit more of originality, but once you tried it, you can recognize the imprint in the rest of the class. Ex: Tumulte, Vetiver by L'Occitane, Gucci pH (2003).

    6. Barbershop scents: for those wishing to recall past times, namely, the 1930's / 1940's, their lost Grandpa's and / or Fathers or just the barbershop they went to when kids. Ex: Dana's Canoe, Avon's Wild Country, a local cheapo, Grandall (a kick off of the first, but more flowery) and YSL Rive Gauche pour Homme. There are flankers in terms of strength and longevity: Grandal vanishes in seconds (rather a body splah than an EdT), Canoe lasts a little bit, Wild Country S&L is pretty good, and YSL Rive Gauche pH is a bomb.

    7. Studio 54's scents: yes, powerbombs dating from the late 1970's early 1980's, those scents blended with the intention of sparking and / or catching up with sexual tension, made to be used at the disco, while dancing to the tunes of Dona Summer, Gloria Gaynor, Chic, etc. Ex: the original Paco Rabanne, Kouros, Azzaro, BAlenciaga por Homme, etc.

    8. Fragrances that could have been for the missus but now men can wear without any trouble "cause "men have come a long way, babe": take leather and musk notes scents and that is what you have, fragrances that could have been worn by women fifty to twenty years ago. This could be the case of Kiehl's Musk, Antaeus and VC&A for men. See? Things have changed not only for women...

    9. Gay scents: fragrances favored by the gay community. No, I am not refering to the models used in ads nor such names as "Eau du Coq", I am refering to very sweet and very strong scents like Obsession, A Men, Rochas Lui, etc.

    10. Snobish scents: overpriced scents, plain and simple. I refrain to mention examples as I am aware I could be the object of a terrorist attack by part of some "brand fundamentalist guerrilla task force".

    11. Drusgtore scents: the ones sold in drugstores or supermarkets, BNoters spending too much money in fragrances might consider there might be a chance of finding a hidden gem among them... without succes so far. Ex: Adidas Victory League.

    12. Hard to understand scents: the ones loved by experts, cherished by experts wannabe because experts say so, and despised by common fragrance users. Yes, Jules, that is you. BTW, Oscar per Lui might be among these ones, IMHO.

    13. Lady's scents used by men because "men have come a long way, babe": perfectly unisex fragrances - Cabochard, Shalimar, Bandit, Mitsouko - or female fragrances with exquisite drydowns - Opium pH.

    Well, I ran out of categories.

    A, yes...

    14. Classics: the ones considered so, but - obviously - either reformulated for the bad and / or discontinued. In this case, they usually cost an amazing amount of dollars when becoming rare. Ex: Givenchy Gentleman, Rochas Macassar.

  2. #2

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    I don't think that your criteria is arbitrary at all, in fact it describes often many of the scents both me and my friends and acquaintances own very accurately. And, as a maybe irrelevant bit oft trivia: the categories 1, 2, 4-8, 10, 12, 14 are what I truly like.
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 18th April 2009 at 12:41 PM.

  3. #3
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    I thought of the word "arbitrary" in terms of my criteria en ragards to common standards.

    Regarding personal tastes, I have scents of every single type described, and as a mater of fact, 8 & 13 were types of scents became aware of or I started to use as part my participation in this forum.
    Last edited by Pollux; 18th April 2009 at 01:49 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    3. Contemporary citrous / marine template: scents resorting to bergamot notes usually respectful of wearers thinking that scents being smell by passers-bye might qualify them as flamboyant - at best -, or GaGCB ("gay as gay can be") at worst. The usual stuff found everywhere: Duty Free shops, high-end perfume stores, drugstores and supermarkets. Longevity and sillage are nil. Ex; CK ONe, Aqua Di Gio.
    Give me a break.

  5. #5

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    I refer to your classification no. 9 in particular. If this is correct, then I think majority of basenoters would be gay. Don't you think so.

  6. #6
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Yes, we are a bunch of cheerful guys. More even so of you love Rochas Lui, which I do, BTW

    PS: Though I hate Obsession!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    OMG! Wearing Rochas Lui made me gay! Damn it - I knew I should have picked the other fragrance I was looking at - Delicious Closet Queen.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  8. #8

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Gucci PH 2003 as a cedar?!!! it's woody, but not cedar - the stuff screams pure unabashed frankincense on the dry down!

    interesting though. and I'm a gayer, and at least in London, none of those are gay scents at all!

  9. #9

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by xmen View Post
    I refer to your classification no. 9 in particular. If this is correct, then I think majority of basenoters would be gay. Don't you think so.
    Don't you?
    Quote Originally Posted by SeaninDubh View Post
    interesting though. and I'm a gayer, and at least in London, none of those are gay scents at all!
    From the top of your head, in London or elsewhere, please name the ten best!
    Last edited by narcus; 24th April 2009 at 11:01 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  10. #10

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    What about;
    1. scents to wear to work. Nice enough to like yourself, but non-descript enough that if one has the day from hell and is forever reminded of it by this scent it won't be the biggest tragedy in the world that you can't wear it again (thanks midbrain!) eg EL Sensuous
    2. Scents to wear depending on the weather, specifically ; sunny cool, boiling hot, winter storms, cold and clear, autumn melancholy.... and so on
    3. Oops, bought it unsniffed and it's pretty boring but not crap enough to ditch (Anglomania- I'm Sniffin' at YOU)
    4. Unbelievable, only for important anniverseries, fabulous days, and feeling on top of the world, eg amouage Gold
    5. Slobbing around the house ( might include many NEW scents, ie a TESTING day full of samples...)
    6. Scents for adventure and outdoors, hiking and camping (a lot of CDG and CB I hate Perfume falls into this categorie)
    And so on.

  11. #11

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...


    Quote:
    3. Contemporary citrous / marine template: scents resorting to bergamot notes usually respectful of wearers thinking that scents being smell by passers-bye might qualify them as flamboyant - at best -, or GaGCB ("gay as gay can be") at worst. The usual stuff found everywhere: Duty Free shops, high-end perfume stores, drugstores and supermarkets. Longevity and sillage are nil. Ex; CK ONe, Aqua Di Gio.
    Give me a break.
    Agreed. Bad example chosen in CK One as it has quite some sillage and respectable longevity, as well. Writing off all marine scents as "just another aquatic" is as silly as writing off every scent with spices as "just another oriental."
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  12. #12

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    well, I don't spend too much time on the gay scene really (cr@p music, too many g-star jeans and A&F t shirts) but here's a few:

    Le Male - probably due to homoerotic bottle more than anything else
    A&F - anything, it matches by tshirt baby p
    The latest Hugo thing due to the ad (sorry, useless with celebrity names - fit irish bloke)
    and, to my senstive little nose, anything with mega floral opening (with frequent spritzing never good) and sickly vanilla, in-yer-face dry down.

    If I budget well this month, i might (it's a big big might) be mincing up and down Old Compton Street reeking of Le Labo Oud 27, just to see if I can start a trend. Ha!

  13. #13

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by SeaninDubh View Post
    If I budget well this month, i might (it's a big big might) be mincing up and down Old Compton Street reeking of Le Labo Oud 27, just to see if I can start a trend. Ha!
    Why don't you try that! It could improve overall impressions outsiders seem to have. But would the area be classy enough for such a trend?

    I can see Le Male. I am lacking broader input, but Le Male seems to have successfully established itself as a gay perfume. And I cannot but think that this was Gaultiers intent. As you are talking of loud floral openings, maybe Fleur du Male is following those footsteps. Another good one doesn't hurt, and would assume that the softer boys would accept this one. But they are only a small part of the spectrum, of course.
    Last edited by narcus; 24th April 2009 at 02:56 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Why don't you try that! It could improve overall impressions. But would the area be classy enough for such a trend?

    I think not! 'Ooh, he smells like musty hankies on a bonfire' or something. But if there's one thing worse than being talked about, it's not being talked about!!

  15. #15

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by SeaninDubh View Post
    I think not! 'Ooh, he smells like musty hankies on a bonfire' or something. But if there's one thing worse than being talked about, it's not being talked about!!
    Maybe it's the perfect test for a good match! I wish you the best of luck with it! Someone is bound to love it!
    Last edited by narcus; 24th April 2009 at 12:13 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16
    bluesoul's Avatar
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by SeaninDubh View Post
    Gucci PH 2003 as a cedar?!!! it's woody, but not cedar - the stuff screams pure unabashed frankincense on the dry down!

    interesting though. and I'm a gayer, and at least in London, none of those are gay scents at all!
    Gucci PH is one of the most cedar-dominant mainstream frags ever released, IMHO.
    Twitter - @DanielTharp
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  17. #17
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    This classification is not intended to be serious at all... so feel free to destroy it, adapt it or better, add new categories.
    Last edited by Pollux; 24th April 2009 at 08:38 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Some of Basenotes' own categories:

    The classics that we complain about being reformulated.

    The little known niche or discontinued fragrances we hype as gifts from heaven

    That mainstream designer fragrances we try to defend as "modern classics" - or trash.

    The celebuscents we love to make fun of.

    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 24th April 2009 at 09:49 PM.

  19. #19
    Pollux's Avatar
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    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Some of Basenotes' own categories:

    The classics that we complain about being reformulated.

    The little known niche or discontinued fragrances we hype as gifts from heaven

    That mainstream designer fragrances we try to defend as "modern classics" - or trash.

    The celebuscents we love to make fun of.

    "The not reformulated but still reformulated beacuse we think it has been reformulated " scent: The classic that has not been reformulated but someone insists on it and, because of it everybody here in BN think it is "a former shadow of its former self".

    The "soon to become extinct" fragrance: hearsay goes that it is being discontinued because it can't be found in major dep't stores, but still easily available over the Internet. SO here we go buying backups... (BWT, I have ten bottles of Aramis. Does anyone want to swap them? Joking - .

    "Evil posts" scents: The impossible to find that is recurrently suggested to new members... take the usual "please suggest a scent with these characteristics" thread posted by a guy. The scents under this category are the ones mentioned in these kinds of posts... "I suggest you to try Le Parfum D'Un Air de Mademoiselle de Vigny avec les Fleurs de la Toscanne by Parfums du Vichy D'Albert et le Duc de Rochefort du Champagne de L'Oeil et Fateuil". What the poor new member does not know is that this an actually discontinued fragrance dating from 1930 that was originally a women's scent, almost impossible to find, except for a 0.5 ml extract costing euros 1500 offered in the Fidjian version of E Bay.

    The "Wow scent / Hey, actually not that wow, they are ripping you off" scent: A wonderful fragrance by most, but clearly indicated by some reputable BN member that actually it is just a single diluted essential oil being sold for USD 300 for 3.3 Oz.

    The "mysterious / exotic scent imported from a place were the devil lost its poncho": oils or perfumes considered as true representations of the art of milenary cultures and countries with impossible to understand languages and alphabets (unless you truly dedicate 5 to 10 years to learn them, of course), distilled from flowers blooming once every 365 days (if weather permits) - of course, these plant gorw in an ecosystem located at 5000 meters above sea level.
    Last edited by Pollux; 25th April 2009 at 01:04 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: An very capricious way of classifying scents...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Some of Basenotes' own categories:

    The classics that we complain about being reformulated.

    The little known niche or discontinued fragrances we hype as gifts from heaven

    That mainstream designer fragrances we try to defend as "modern classics" - or trash.

    The celebuscents we love to make fun of.

    LOL! Good one!

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