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Thread: Profumo.it sample reviews.

  1. #61

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    Aalacho 2

    VERY resinous, smoky, dark, incense and coniferous wood with a deep underlying sweetness. The green is much more buried under spikier folliage here than in aalacho 1. The leaves and vegetation are there but smell more bitter brown than green, a little charred like the remenants of a forest fire a few years past. This is more macho, almost fierce, but the honeyed wood underneath it all speaks of the softer side of the bears in the trees. It eases a little as it develops with well blended tobacco linking the animalic with the leafy and herbal aspects.

    Very long lasting for a natural. It has a significant animalic component in its base (honey, tobacco, castoreum, moss), interestingly it underlines the animalic components of some vegetable sourced material and blends with the lightly sweet woods for a fantastic forest accord.

    I can see how this fit Nathans brief perfectly and would hit the spot dead centre for him. Though I like this very much and will wear it, I prefer the Aalacho 1 which seems a little more open in composition, less dense and with that ethereal violet leaf giving a lighter shade of green.
    So where were you when I was trying to write that brief? I could have just pointed to you and said, "Take note of every word that comes out of this man's mouth!"

    I'm glad you got to experience both and compare them against each other. Aalacho #1 is, indeed, much more open and soaring in a kind of high-noon forest cathedral style. Lots of life and vitality. It's an excellent piece of work and I'm happy that Salaam decided to make it available for others to experience, as I could tell he genuinely liked it himself.

    Now excuse me while I go lumber off to my cave and sit in the dark with Aalacho #2.

  2. #62

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Cologne De L'Empereur

    I was expecting something very dry and bitter but this begins suprisingly sweet. As the alcohol burns off there is a brief wonderful candied mixed up accord, mainly floral with a warm neroli, delicate rose and dry lavender all underlined with dusty animalic civet. As this settles after a minute or so, the bergamot rings out clear, more orange than bitter and quite green too. At this point Guerlain's Eau Du Coq springs to mind somewhat for its juxtaposition of the lavender and civet, though this is sweeter, warmer and friendlier. The bergamot coninues to blossom and is joined by a lovely citrus accord with I think contains cedrat and lime. There are sweetish green notes too.

    There is now a period where I thought of Creed's Bois de Cedrat. I experience a sheerness and transparency here; it shares the liquid, almost thirst quenching quality of that fragrace. The palpable depth is provided by the fantastic base of civet and maybe a touch of sandalwood? It remains in this balance for quite some time, the citrus and florals fading into the base which endures for many hours. The Guerlainish civet-lavender remains a feature; later on it reminds me more of Mouchoir de Monsieur. The balance of floral notes smells almost plummy at times and really sets this apart.

    The overall softness and roundness define this and separate it from those other Eaux and similar fragrances. The layering is suprisingly coherent to me and very well conceived giving me a fascinating insight into how a truly natural version of this, perhaps my favourite fragrance style, works. The citrus oils are not sharp or acidic and overall it suprised me how they blend in and even take more time to come to life that the florals.

    The civet endures to keep this fresh and funky at the same time.

    Longevity is excellent with the base accord, sillage is on the low side.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  3. #63

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    I recently got around to writing a full fledged review of Profumo's African Queen Pink Panther and I've since then posted it in the reviews directory, but here it is, copied and pasted. I couldn't help writing so much, it's just such a strange and compelling fragrance while also being light and refreshing.

    African Queen Pink Panther


    My first impression of this was, “Holy mother of God! This smells great!” Then it was “Wait a second, what the &*#! is this?” Since then, I've worn African Queen Pink Panther (AQPP) numerous times, and have come to the conclusion that AQPP is simply “Strange and beautiful.” You’ll understand what I mean as you read my description of the notes below…

    AQPP starts off with a bit of tart and mouth watering mandarin, which soon burns off to reveal a combination of Buchu (which provides a strange minty/cat-pee-like note) and Karo Karounde (a flower that smells a bit like flowery leather, but also smells a bit of feet). I’m sure there are other supporting notes, although my nose isn’t well trained enough to isolate them. Overall, AQPP smells like minty, citrusy human skin, glistening with sweat.

    You might have noticed that I mentioned pee and feet in my description above. The reason I mention cat pee and feet in my description above, is that it’s totally necessary to do so – I simply have no other way to describe it, as this is one of the most unique fragrances I have ever encountered. At the same time, it doesn’t smell like pee or feet per se – while Kouros smells a bit like a urinal, AQPP actually smells fresh, clean and alive and almost like the smell of a healthy woman with a glistening layer of sweat on her skin. I’ve spoken to Salaam about the cat pee note, and he's informed me that this is because Buchu (a member of the mint family) mimics some of the pheromones found in pee and sweat – thus, it makes for an incredibly sensual fragrance note, reminiscent of minty sweat (and, erhh cat pee). Don't get me wrong though, I love this stuff.

    AQPP is the type of fragrance that is teetering on a thin line between fantastic and off-putting, although the balance is so impeccable that it is totally wearable (although still very eccentric). In the same way that perfumers will add the famous and off-putting Civet to the base of many fragrances to make them feel alive, Salaam has added together two sensual ingredients (among other supporting notes), to yield a fragrance that not only awakens the deeply rooted animal inside all of us, but also smells just fresh enough to fit our conventional sense of what smells “good.”

    I could ramble all day about this, so I’ll cut it short and just say “try it.” At the worst, you’ll try one of the most interesting fragrances on the market. At the best, you’ll reconnect with the type of smells that we, as humans, are hardwired to enjoy.

    I don't wear this very often outside of the house, as I find it better suited to a woman (thus the name African Queen) but I find myself constantly dabbing AQPP when I'm home alone. As for longevity and sillage, AQPP doesn't project very loudly, yet it's definitely noticeable. It doesn't last longer than a few hours either, but for an all natural perfume, those are great feats.

    In closing, if you enjoy Citrus Paradisi or Mugler Cologne (two fragrances that are also both simultaneously dirty and clean) you'll be especially intrigued by African Queen Pink Panther. Furthermore, if AQPP is not animalic enough for your fancy, Salaam has also created another fragrance named African Queen BLACK Panther. AQBP is basically the same as AQPP, except it's even more raw, sensual and human-like, with the mandarin note being no longer present. Both African Queens are great, but I prefer the Pink to the Black, as it's a little more conventional, although less sensual.

    9/10
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  4. #64
    Fugacious yet complex

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    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by Laura Donna View Post
    Rose des Bois - I hang out mostly in my head, not in my heart. My angle on scent is more analytical than emotional. This morning I got into some project and was forced to radically compress "getting ready" rituals. Though frantic, I decided to try a new Profumo scent and grabbed Rose des Bois. A minute later I brushed my teeth, rinsed and blurted the words: "I love" into the bathroom mirror. No object, just "I love." Then I moisturized, and again, out loud: "I love." OK. But then it happened again. Husband, downstairs. This time the verbal eruption of "I love" was distinctly confusing. Who? What? I was speaking to the hair dryer.

    There is much for me to learn about aromatherapy. There is much for me to learn about roses. I found this perfume to be very filling. Not the scent to don before mountain climbing or writing on a complex subject. I found it to be somewhat hypnotic, narcotic. It caused me to reflect on Ingre's Odalisque, perhaps after a few drinks. Scent-wise (and I usually try to guess the notes before reading anything, just for the exercise), I imagined rose, sandalwood, vanilla or tonka, then apple, which I subsequently reasoned might be apple pie spices, and amber perhaps. I felt the wood that I guessed to be sandalwood resinous, smooth and warm. Not bracing and dry like cedar or pine, and experienced the wood as light brown in color, highly sanded, the bowl in which the roses and fall harvest scents were served.

    Driving to my appointment, I noted that the perfume was making me feel extremely relaxed and maybe as if I had eaten an extra serving of dessert, though the scent is not noticeably sweet. I stopped the car and treated this condition with coffee.

    Reading up a bit on Rose des Bois, I enjoyed finding that part of the wood is guaic - a note I find soothing and grounding; what butterscotch would be if it were lean protein instead of carbohydrate.

    Rose des Bois is a scent for conquering the bedroom better than the world! Lovely, a feminine, warm and comforting embrace. You are happy, in love, and maybe a little bit drowsy!
    What a fun post - had me giggling. I'm going to try my sample again when I get home tonight.
    He who knows himself, knows others.

    --Charles C. Colton

  5. #65

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Thanks to h_d's generosity, I got to try a few profumo samples. Below are some thoughts (not full fledged reviews):

    Tabac:

    Can't directly compare it to my no.1 tobacco fragrance (Vintage Tabarome) as Tabac is clearly a sweet pipe tobacco while Tabarome is infused with a smokier cigar tobacco note. The opening is resinous and cool..is there a hidden grapefruit note in the top? I also detect lots of good quality cistus...sweet, floral and woody, blending well with the tobacco note. I believe cistus is what h_d might have been referring to as a 'hay like' note. An aura of moderated sweetness permeates the whole composition. There's also a longlasting herbaceous, clove like note...is it clary sage? Vanilla and tonka more perceptible in the base. A more apt comparison would be to Fumerie Turque...the cherry tobacco note in FT starts off smokier, but Tabac is better balanced as it doesn't fall apart into rabid sweetness like FT.

    It would be interesting to compare this to Tobacco Vanille which supposedly has an incredibly realistic pipe tobacco note.
    Last edited by zztopp; 24th June 2009 at 01:36 AM.
    -

  6. #66

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Thanks to h_d's generosity, I got to try a few profumo samples. Below are some thoughts (not full fledged reviews):

    Tabac:

    Can't directly compare it to my no.1 tobacco fragrance (Vintage Tabarome) as Tabac is clearly a sweet pipe tobacco while Tabarome is infused with a smokier cigar tobacco note. The opening is resinous and cool..is there a hidden grapefruit note in the top? I also detect lots of good quality cistus...sweet, floral and woody, blending well with the tobacco note. I believe cistus is what h_d might have been referring to as a 'hay like' note. An aura of moderated sweetness permeates the whole composition. There's also a longlasting herbaceous, clove like note...is it clary sage? Vanilla and tonka more perceptible in the base. A more apt comparison would be to Fumerie Turque...the cherry tobacco note in FT starts off smokier, but Tabac is better balanced as it doesn't fall apart into rabid sweetness like FT.

    It would be interesting to compare this to Tobacco Vanille which supposedly has an incredibly realistic pipe tobacco note.
    ZZ - should have sent you my sample of tobacco vanille too. It really doesn't compare at all in my mind. Neither the tobacco nor the vanille are of any kind of comparable quality. TV has a "nice" overall accord but is essentially a simple perfume wheras tabac is highly complex.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  7. #67

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Cuba express:

    The defining rum, bay leaf and tobacco accord is upfront. Both rum and bay leaf oils are of a good quality, especially the spicy herbaceous bay leaf oil. The tobacco note is light yet perceptible. Theres a bit of a dry cocoa note but I am not getting much of the cocoa+chocolate accord. Comparing it to my reference 'Cuba' fragrance, Czech & Speake's Cuba, reveals interesting observations. The bayleaf oil is superior in Express, but the rum absolute note smells more 'rummy' in Cuba. There's a more solid structure to Cuba...it shifts overtime, going from the minty lime-rum top notes to the bay leaf dominated heart...Cuba is more dynamic while Express broadcasts a nice but dormant accord. Maybe this could be a case of what Turin meant when he said that synthetics provide a stable structure which can be embellished by quality naturals to provide both dynamism and high fidelity notes. In the battles of Cubas I still prefer C&S Cuba to Express, while in Profumo.it land I would take the dense pipe tobacco notes of Tabac over Express as well.
    -

  8. #68

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    ZZ - should have sent you my sample of tobacco vanille too. It really doesn't compare at all in my mind. Neither the tobacco nor the vanille are of any kind of comparable quality. TV has a "nice" overall accord but is essentially a simple perfume wheras tabac is highly complex.
    I haven't tried Tobacco Vanilla but scentophile was impressed by the pipe tobacco note in it hence I mentioned it :

    http://jaimeleparfum.wordpress.com/2...u-a-gold-star/

    Aalacho:

    "Resinous/coniferous green". The opening is like walking into a pine forest after snowfall. Refreshing and bracing. Eucalyptus or spearmint might be responsible for the chill effect. However, I agree with h_d...there might be a cypress note in there which may be responsible for the evergreen note. I don't know if a cypress note by itself can deliver the bracing note. The ingredients though don't provide the startling clarity of (cypress in) Cypress Musc or (mint in) Selection Verte. At times the main accord recalls the Villoresi house accord...that galbanum-lavender-labdanum woody-green accord, except not as loud. Then theres the violet leaf note...it has raw feel, the aroma that arises when you boil green vegetables..very much in the The Unicorn Spell neighborhood without the iris-rooty undertones. The drydown is mostly sweet woods...a bit of castoreum, tonka and vanilla?
    The coniferous green burst is very enjoyable...but after that initial load of excitement its plain sailing.

    As has already been mentioned these fragrance stay close to the skin but even after sampling only 3 fragrances I am convinced of profumo.it's ability to rub shoulders with the big boys. I won't be getting rid of my mutant natural-synthetic fragrances anytime soon but if I am in the market to commission an all natural fragrance it will probably be from Profumo.
    -

  9. #69

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    Cologne De L'Empereur

    I was expecting something very dry and bitter but this begins suprisingly sweet. As the alcohol burns off there is a brief wonderful candied mixed up accord, mainly floral with a warm neroli, delicate rose and dry lavender all underlined with dusty animalic civet. As this settles after a minute or so, the bergamot rings out clear, more orange than bitter and quite green too. At this point Guerlain's Eau Du Coq springs to mind somewhat for its juxtaposition of the lavender and civet, though this is sweeter, warmer and friendlier. The bergamot coninues to blossom and is joined by a lovely citrus accord with I think contains cedrat and lime. There are sweetish green notes too.

    There is now a period where I thought of Creed's Bois de Cedrat. I experience a sheerness and transparency here; it shares the liquid, almost thirst quenching quality of that fragrace. The palpable depth is provided by the fantastic base of civet and maybe a touch of sandalwood? It remains in this balance for quite some time, the citrus and florals fading into the base which endures for many hours. The Guerlainish civet-lavender remains a feature; later on it reminds me more of Mouchoir de Monsieur. The balance of floral notes smells almost plummy at times and really sets this apart.

    The overall softness and roundness define this and separate it from those other Eaux and similar fragrances. The layering is suprisingly coherent to me and very well conceived giving me a fascinating insight into how a truly natural version of this, perhaps my favourite fragrance style, works. The citrus oils are not sharp or acidic and overall it suprised me how they blend in and even take more time to come to life that the florals.

    The civet endures to keep this fresh and funky at the same time.

    Longevity is excellent with the base accord, sillage is on the low side.
    I'm wearing this beside sprays of Farina Gegenüber (current formulation), Campagna's Neroli and Kamali Zagara. It's lighter and more transparent than any of these and the quality of the materials really shines through. As with Holy Water, I'm a bit irritated by the candied sweetness on top that reminds me of a certain brand of fruit drops. I'd prefer it to have the greenness of Farina Gegenüber, which is wonderful for the first 30 bergamot seconds, before the synthetic ionones take over and ruin that one for me. The Kamali is weird, a very harsh petitgrain and dry neroli, almost like spray paint - it was interesting on paper, but on my skin it's weird. Campagna's is not bad, though inferior to Tremlett's Neroli, and too ambery sweet for me to wear. Anybody who thought Tova Cologne for Men was great need to try Cologne de l'Empereur. I enjoy it a lot more as it settles, and the herbaceous notes come to the fore - which remind me more of my obscure organic French Lavender cologne than of Mouchoir with its boatload of coumarin. But it won't push Villoresi's off the pedestal - which is less sweet and has that magnificent Elemi twist. To be really sure I'd probably have to pour an entire flacon over my head a la Napoleon .

  10. #70

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I haven't tried Tobacco Vanilla but scentophile was impressed by the pipe tobacco note in it hence I mentioned it :

    http://jaimeleparfum.wordpress.com/2...u-a-gold-star/

    Aalacho:

    "Resinous/coniferous green". The opening is like walking into a pine forest after snowfall. Refreshing and bracing. Eucalyptus or spearmint might be responsible for the chill effect. However, I agree with h_d...there might be a cypress note in there which may be responsible for the evergreen note. I don't know if a cypress note by itself can deliver the bracing note. The ingredients though don't provide the startling clarity of (cypress in) Cypress Musc or (mint in) Selection Verte. At times the main accord recalls the Villoresi house accord...that galbanum-lavender-labdanum woody-green accord, except not as loud. Then theres the violet leaf note...it has raw feel, the aroma that arises when you boil green vegetables..very much in the The Unicorn Spell neighborhood without the iris-rooty undertones. The drydown is mostly sweet woods...a bit of castoreum, tonka and vanilla?
    The coniferous green burst is very enjoyable...but after that initial load of excitement its plain sailing.

    As has already been mentioned these fragrance stay close to the skin but even after sampling only 3 fragrances I am convinced of profumo.it's ability to rub shoulders with the big boys. I won't be getting rid of my mutant natural-synthetic fragrances anytime soon but if I am in the market to commission an all natural fragrance it will probably be from Profumo.
    Yes but liking it from a techical point of view is different from thinking it is a good perfume to wear. T.V. Is a representation of that pipe tobacco - a very good representation of the surface of it anyway - and the iso e super gives it an uber smooth effect which is somewhat incongrous. It is like the dirt has been washed out. It is cleverly made and well composed but lacks anything below the veneer for me.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  11. #71

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    I'm wearing this beside sprays of Farina Gegenüber (current formulation), Campagna's Neroli and Kamali Zagara. It's lighter and more transparent than any of these and the quality of the materials really shines through. As with Holy Water, I'm a bit irritated by the candied sweetness on top that reminds me of a certain brand of fruit drops. I'd prefer it to have the greenness of Farina Gegenüber, which is wonderful for the first 30 bergamot seconds, before the synthetic ionones take over and ruin that one for me. The Kamali is weird, a very harsh petitgrain and dry neroli, almost like spray paint - it was interesting on paper, but on my skin it's weird. Campagna's is not bad, though inferior to Tremlett's Neroli, and too ambery sweet for me to wear. Anybody who thought Tova Cologne for Men was great need to try Cologne de l'Empereur. I enjoy it a lot more as it settles, and the herbaceous notes come to the fore - which remind me more of my obscure organic French Lavender cologne than of Mouchoir with its boatload of coumarin. But it won't push Villoresi's off the pedestal - which is less sweet and has that magnificent Elemi twist. To be really sure I'd probably have to pour an entire flacon over my head a la Napoleon .
    Its the lavender-civet combo which call up those guerlains for me, perhaps a testement to the enduring quality of those despite repeated attempts to downgrade them. The Villoresi is indeed wonderful, and the best existing examplar of that particular style perhaps. The Villoresi has a large and very enduring musk which provides longevity. This detracts somewhat for me, I am not hugely keen on musk in my eaux.

    The Farina Gegenuber is frankly poor. It is overflowing with those harsh synthetic green notes. I tried it again last night and could still smell it on my skin this morning - hardly the sign of a quality eau in my opinion .

    I
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  12. #72

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    I recently purchased a bottle of Morning Blossom and Profumo was kind enough to send me samples of a few other fragrances. I'll start with Oak Moss.

    Oak Moss


    Oak Moss opens up smelling a little like essential oils and at first, feels old fashioned, but as it dries down everything softens up and 3 main ingredients stand out: vetiver, sandalwood and oakmoss. Once these three notes get the chance to balance each other out, the Oak Moss experience is a great one. Sexy, green and musky.

    All in all, the best way I can describe Oak Moss is that it smells like a dewey and sweet forest - thus I agree with Profumo that this is the perfume for Tarzan. When I first smelled Oak Moss, it felt unique but also a little familiar. I thought it was the forest vibe, but I now realize it smells very similar to Frederic Malle's Vetiver Extraodinaire - in fact both fragrances are composed heavily of vetiver, woods and musk (ie. oakmoss in Oak Moss and synthetic musk in VE's case). While I enjoy Oak Moss a lot, I prefer Vetiver Extraordinaire by Frederic Malle, as it's more dynamic and modern. At that, Oak Moss is a great replacement for VE should one decide they prefer all natural fragrances.

    Sillage and strength are moderate.

    8.25/10
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  13. #73

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Flanel

    I'm guessing this is an homage of sorts to Grey Flannel, as there is a huge blast of violet in the opening notes. I don't know much about the original Grey Flannel except for it's notes, but Profumo's Flanel sure would fit exceptionally well with a checkered, old flannel shirt. It's deep green, musky and comforting. The only notes I can decipher are violet and moss - maybe some patchouli and tonka-sweetness. This scent is very green, but also woodsy - it smells like a moist forest with mossy, decomposing logs. There's also a slight sweet aspect to it that rounds everything out. I've never smelled Grey Flannel, but I have smelled Narciso Rodriguez for Men, and I can say that Flanel also shares some similarities to NR for Men.

    While the opening of Flanel is one of the most captivating I have ever smelled (it's a creamy, green violet note supported by mossy musk), the drydown is a little disappointing. As the violet burns off, the sweeter aspects and some woods come into play, but there is still something missing, and I find it a bit boring. All in all a very nice one though, blended especially well and with longer than normal longevity (but low sillage).


    7.5/10 & a thumbs up
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 12th July 2009 at 09:39 PM.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  14. #74

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Dear Aventurier, Flanel is a bespoke fragrance I made for a Basenoter. He told me the ingredients and I added nothing to what he asked me. This is the principle of my bespoke perfumes. If you like each ingredient you should like the whole perfume, if it is done properly.
    So each bespoke is a challenge in which I endevour to do the best out of a maximum of 10 essences asked by the person.
    Flannel is the name chosen by the person who ordered the perfume.
    I told you nothing because I wanted to have your reaction unprejudiced.
    Our Basenoter fellow liked his perfume, I am gratified. The notes that you identified are right, this is my first perfume with so much violet leaf absolute.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  15. #75

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Hi Profumo, I figured it was a bespoke! It's funny, because of the bespokes of yours I've tried, I always wish I could tweak something a little - makes sense if these are made to mesh perfectly with certain specific indivuals' skin chemistry (and not mine).

    Although I wasn't crazy about Flanel, I'm particularly loving the Tasneem and Gringo. Tasneem's blend of ylang ylang and jasmine has a great care-free and playful vibe, while you've really managed to capture an aire of adventure in Gringo. The peppermint opening is amazing - definitely the most modern and youthful fragrance of yours I've smelled to date. I'll review them both fully for other Basenoters in the next few days.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  16. #76

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Dear Aventurier, About the bespoke problem (I have to do with only the ingredients chosen by my customer) you could try Aalacho, which I did for nathan Branch.
    I did the Aalacho number one with more ingredients than were asked to me, leaving aside even one that was asked, in order to follow his brief.
    He did not like it so much and I did for him a second one, Aalacho number two, with only and all his ingredients. He loved it.
    Of course I prefer the number one which I completed according to my mind.
    I would be curious to know if you still would twist something to the number one which I completed to my liking, and to the number two for which I had the same limitations than my other bespokes.
    Last edited by Profumo; 14th July 2009 at 07:19 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  17. #77

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Flanel
    Its weird how something so green can smell also grey. The opening is an arresting accord of violet and big moss. It smells a little similar to damp cloth, but fresh and organic too. Its like a shirt left in the forest overnight on top of a mossy rock, picked up and put on at the break of a dewey spring dawn. After the initial rush, it does feel a little lacking in complexity for a short while though the simplicity also makes it very comfortable and easy to wear, like the old favourite shirt. I prefer the drydown to this middle stage.

    It settles down into mossy green with some sweet woods and the violet leaf. Its a fairly simple accord but has a gently pleasing quality - the kind of perfume that sits there smelling good without ever calling for attention; friendly, a bit naive and childlike, charming. Like a conversation with a stranger which is unexpectedly satisfying, a bit distant but in a way which is so appropriate that it makes you smile.

    It doesn't have the fabulous depth of some of profumo's offerings but it is not totally devoid, especially as it dries further when the lovely patchouli starts to come into its own.

    The violet leaf feels like it could do with a spot of incense to lift it and the whole thing could be more resinous. The ingredients in general smell very good of course.

    Longevity is good, sillage on the low side.

    When I get around to having Profumo make a bespoke for me, I will request that he feel free to use his knowledge to develop my idea and interpret it (I would list some ingredients which I wouldn't want him to put in as well as the ones I do).

    Maybe you could give customers these options Profumo?
    1) Make only with these ingredients
    2) Add other ingredients if you feel it improves the balance.
    3) If you choose number 2 -please avoid these ingredients:

    Just a thought.

    Cheers
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 14th July 2009 at 08:43 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  18. #78

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    The violet leaf feels like it could do with a spot of incense to lift it and the whole thing could be more resinous. The ingredients in general smell very good of course.
    Just what I was thinking Hirch. There's two directions I'd like Flanel to go (this is of course subjective, according to my taste): either go in the incense direction and/or maybe add a bit of vanilla to make the whole thing a green gourmand fragrance.

    There is of course a positive side to Flanel being the way it is - it's inoffensive and very, very comfy - the epitomizing scent to wear with a flanel shirt.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  19. #79

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    I would be curious to know if you still would twist something to the number one which I completed to my liking, and to the number two for which I had the same limitations than my other bespokes.
    I have a sample of Aalacho #1 on its way to me from the perfumed court. I'm excited to try it, as well as the #2 in the future. I'll have to order a sample of #2 soon after to compare - will be an interesting observation to sniff out the differences while reading about the process you and Nathan went through. It's always fascinating to smell the bespokes, as they are tailored to specific, personal requirements. I'm sure the #2 fits Nathan like a glove (as I've read above!). I imagine Flanel to be along the same lines.
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 14th July 2009 at 09:51 PM.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  20. #80

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    Flanel

    While the opening of Flanel is one of the most captivating I have ever smelled (it's a creamy, green violet note supported by mossy musk), the drydown is a little disappointing. As the violet burns off, the sweeter aspects and some woods come into play, but there is still something missing, and I find it a bit boring. All in all a very nice one though, blended especially well and with longer than normal longevity (but low sillage).


    7.5/10 & a thumbs up
    Dear Aventurier, here are the notes that compose Flanel.
    Oak Moss
    Mysore Sandalwood
    Violet leaves
    Lemon
    Mandarin
    As you see very few ingredients were asked to me, which denotes on the part of the person who asked it that he had a clear idea of what he wanted and that he is not a person who messes up in life.
    He is also used to take quick decisions with calculated risks.

    I think that this perfume who is narcotic fragrance, would be like by people who are like that by nature but also to those who need to be like this.
    If he manifests himself on this thread he would tell how true is the profile I wrote.
    Last edited by Profumo; 18th July 2009 at 10:29 AM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  21. #81

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Of course when I said patchouli, I meant sandalwood .
    There is sometrhing about the green violet and the sandalwood which give that sweet patch impression to me. And I'm really suggestible .
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  22. #82

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    As you see very few ingredients were asked to me, which denotes on the part of the person who asked it that he had a clear idea of what he wanted and that he is not a person who messes up in life.
    He is also used to take quick decisions with calculated risks.

    I think that this perfume who is narcotic fragrance, would be like by people who are like that by nature but also to those who need to be like this.
    If he manifests himself on this thread he would tell how true is the profile I wrote.
    Your description of the owner of Flanel makes me think of a Samurai proverb that I love:

    "In the words of the ancients, one should make his decision within the space of seven breaths. It is a matter of being determined and having the spirit to break through to the other side."

    Sounds like my kinda guy.

    Anyway, I don't doubt that it turned out the way he wanted. I'd love to hear what the owner of Flanel thinks of it. Although I mentioned I found the dry-down a bit boring, well, honesty isn't always pretty . I do like the scent overall and I'm sure others who get to sniff it will too - I just have specific tastes after smelling so many different fragrances over the past few years.
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 20th July 2009 at 07:01 AM.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

  23. #83

    Default Re: Profumo.it sample reviews.

    Gringo

    Oh how I've waited to try this one (Theperfumedcourt.com has been out of Gringo for the past few months). Well, it was well worth the wait.

    Gringo opens up with one of the best minty (peppermint) openings I've experienced, along with a touch of lemon. Right from the get-go, you also get notes of camphorous patchouli, frankincense and castoreum. It's one of the most complex I've smelled from Profumo's line. The drydown is less upbeat than the opening, but it's just as interesting, as the scent becomes more leather and frankincense oriented, along with little hints of vanilla, sandalwood and rose. Overall it's lemony, minty, green, incensey and leathery all at once, with the tiniest hint of vanilla sweetness.

    While many of Profumo's fragrances are old fashioned to my nose (that's usually a good thing), Gringo manages to be youthful and modern while also maintaining an earthy, natural feel. It's no easy feat to create something like this.

    As far as the pirate/buccaneer connotations on Profumo's site go, they're pretty accurate. Gringo smells like a young man with an old soul - I swear, if it had rum in it, Gringo would smell just how I imagine Jack Sparrow (ie. Johnny Depp) should smell. It's adventurous, rugged and and playfully bad-ass.

    Gringo isn't a conventional scent, but it's very wearable and my small sample has sadly run dry over the past few days. Currently in the top 3 of Profumo's fragrances I've sniffed so far, this will be the next full bottle or decant I purchase if I'm not side-tracked by Tasneem's innocent, sweet and creamy Ylang-Ylang/Jasmine mix.

    Edit: Sillage and longevity are very, very good for Gringo. The dry-down takes about an hour and then it coasts on for about 8 hours on my skin.
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 20th July 2009 at 07:03 AM.
    Favorite Perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian, Jacques Cavallier, Jean-Claude Ellena

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