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  1. #1

    Default Mimosa-help please!

    I am in love with the mimosa that grows in the south of France (and elsewhere, of course): the yellow puffy buds growing on branches, sold in abundance all over France once they are in bloom (usually beginning in February).

    I am on a never-ending quest for a scent that features mimosa. Not necessarily a soliflore, but a blend that features mimosa and reflects the character of the natural scent, which is to say, that does not take it in a sweet or gourmand direction.

    I would describe the scent as polleny, heady, earthy, even a little bleachy--but not at all sweet. and never "almondy." In fact this is the appeal of mimosa: it is so surprisingly dry and not cloying. I have also noticed you love it or hate it, or can't smell it at all. I recently filled my apartment in Paris with bouquets of branches and 50% of the men who visited could not detect it at all, while others (usually women) were immediately struck by the scent.

    I have found most perfumes listing mimosa (and I'll get to other versions of the name) are ultra sweet and cloying.

    So where I need help is on identifying what to call the note, and where to find it, and any other info. [For instance a perfumer in Florence said it is very difficult to extract the fragrance due to the dryness of the flower and that is why it is hard to find].


    I have spoken to several perfume people, including those at the Osmotheque, and still do not have all pieces of the puzzle.

    I'm hoping some of you can help me sort it out. Please correct and comment as needed/desired on the info I have gleaned so far:

    1) The mimosa I am talking about is called acacia farnesiana (not to be confused with acacia) , also called "cassie" (not to be confused with cassis or cassia) in French [This could be the first error! Maybe it is another variety I am thinking of?]

    2) Farnesiana by Caron (which I like but only when in a gourmand mood) features this note, but I find it so almondy that I hardly smell the mimosa. Mimosa is never almondy smelling,. This one just can't give me my mimosa fix.

    3) Mimosa pour Moi by l'Artisan Parfumeur is very close, but still just a bit too sweet for me(though not almondy)

    4) Apres l'londée (which I love) comes close, but heliotrope is more featured.

    5) Une Fleur de Cassie to me captures the mood of mimosa better than any other fragrance, even though it is not at all a soliflore. To me mimosa is a unisex flower, and a little dirty. The right mood, but does not satisfy the mimosa craving.

    6) Should I try Nicolai's Mimosaique? I'm not sure how I've missed it in my sampling so far. It has been recommended, but I'm not sure I should bother if it is much like one of the others I already know. I'm trying to slow down on buying decants and samples when I can.

    7) Does anyone know why mimosa is so often interpreted as a sweet fragrance in perfume blends? Blended with almondy notes in particular? I like sweet almond but not when I'm in the mood for mimosa. Perhaps the mimosa does something nice for sweet and/or almond notes, but not vice versa.

    8) Are other words used to designate the mimosa note in fragrance (and vice-versa--is there something else called mimosa that is messing it up for me? There is a weedy flower called mimosa that grows in the US but I don't think it is used in perfume]

    Sorry to go on and on--as sign of obsession I know. I hope if you are thoroughly bored you have stopped reading by now....

    ...Just wait until I ask about amber!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 22nd April 2009 at 10:21 AM.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    You've asked an interesting question -- I wish I knew more about this.
    I know that Czech & Speake have a Mimosa fragrance. They mail out free samples, if you send an inquiry note. Here is the blurb for their fragrance:
    "The fragility and softness of the Mimosa blossom is captured in this warm and floral fragrance reminiscent of warm summer evenings. After the initial sensation of Germanium and Ylang Ylang, the soft floral aroma of Egyptian Mimosa and Jasmine evolves with just the subtlest hint of spicy clove."
    I can appreciate that you like floral notes but find they are often too sweet. I have the same reaction.
    Your notes on acacia farnesiana produce some result in wiki, which also lists vachellia farnesiana as the preferred name. My totally un-botanical sense is that "mimosa" is a very broad category which has been applied to many plants, including the one you are looking for. Hence perhaps the variety of scent profiles you've encountered. If "cassie" is the scent you are looking for, it is an essential oil dervied from acacia farnesiana and perhaps that essential oil -- unadulerated with other notes -- would give you what you are looking for in a scent. Hopefully a more informed BN'er will give you further thoughts.
    Cheers,
    Last edited by odysseusm; 20th April 2009 at 04:10 PM.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  3. #3

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Thanks, Odysseum. I think I will try an essential oil as I continue my quest for the perfect mimosa note in a blend. I have tried a few at health food stores, etc.,--some turn out not from the same variety of flower that haunts me. I'll also try the C and S.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 20th April 2009 at 04:23 PM.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    The plant you've described is one of hundreds of varieties of mimosa! It may very well not be the plant that is used in perfumery.

    Also, mimosa is very expensive & I imagine many "extended accords" exist in modern perfumery - where the perfumer has taken a facet of the scent and pulled it one way or the other. Mimosa seems to work well in some sweet blends, though there are scents that try to be less so. Mimosa pour Moi is good, but I would love to suggest one of my favourites: Summer by Kenzo. It's a beautiful, sunny, milky mimosa scent - the best mimosa perfume I've experienced so far. Mimosa pour Moi seems nice, but a little too literal and perhaps a bit thin by comparison.

    Also, you might be interested in this article:

    Countries that have cultivated mimosa for the perfumery trade include Morocco and India, but the Vallée du Tanneron is where the mimosa processed in Grasse comes from. The harvest season lasts for about four weeks (February to early March) and is subject to climatic conditions. Frosts and snow can influence the plant's yield as can a dry summer, which can affect the flower bud growth.

    Initially the enfleurage technique was used but the concrete is now obtained with volatile solvent extraction. To obtain 1kg of mimosa concrete, between 110kgs and 125kgs of mimosa flowers (and twigs) are required. The yield for the absolute is approximately 30%. Annual production of mimosa concrete fluctuates between 200kgs and 1.5 tonnes, according to weather conditions, including frosts and other extremes. Last year was a very good one for mimosa production, but although the 2006 harvest is now in its quality is not yet known.

    The mimosa absolute is described as floral, powdery and green, and it also has a delicate watery quality. It is used in cosmetics and soaps and has also been linked with many fine fragrances.

    The sunshine quality of mimosa is evidenced in L'artisan Parfumeur, with Mimosa pour Moi, by Molinard Jeune with Le Mimosa and by L'Occitane with L'Eau d'Azur.

    Fragrances in which mimosa plays a vital part, but is not the main theme of the fragrance, include Farnesiana by Caron, Chanel Nº 5, Moment Suprême by Jean Patou, Casaque by Jean d'Albret, Kalispera by Jean Desses, Masumi by François Coty, Paris by Yves St Laurent, Byzance by Rochas, Amarige by Givenchy as well as Summer by Kenzo.

    A scent which truly celebrates mimosa is Champs Elysées by Guerlain, where the leaf extract features in the top note and the bloom plays a major part in the heart structure.

    The yellow flower is the star of the remix of Givenchy’s Amarige in the context of its Exclusive 2005 Harvest collection. Originally created in 1991, the juice has been reworked to showcase mimosa harvested in Grasse in 2005. The original scent's juice comprises top notes of mandarin leaf and orange blossom, followed by mimosa, jasmine, ylang-ylang and gardenia notes. The new version features the green sensation of the 2005 mimosa harvest in its top notes along with notes of orange blossom. Heart notes highlight the mimosa absolute's rich and radiant quality, while the base notes of the juice accentuate the blossom's powdery aspects. Mimosa makes up about 25% of the new formula, compared with about 10% in the original, providing a true ode to mimosa and the luminosity of spring.

    FULL TEXT

  5. #5

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Oooh, thank you for all the info, Nukapai!

    I see that the article addresses the problem with extracting scent from the flowers that the perfumer in Florence was trying to explain to me.
    This paragraph is right on target: "Fragrances in which mimosa plays a vital part, but is not the main theme of the fragrance, include Farnesiana by Caron, Chanel Nº 5, Moment Suprême by Jean Patou, Casaque by Jean d'Albret, Kalispera by Jean Desses, Masumi by François Coty, Paris by Yves St Laurent, Byzance by Rochas, Amarige by Givenchy as well as Summer by Kenzo."

    The flowers (and scent) are ubiquitous in the south of France. Perhaps so common that there is not much demand for a scent built around mimosa as a dominant note.

    I have the same reaction you do to Mimosa pour moi. I have not yet tried Summer. Can't wait!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 20th April 2009 at 05:19 PM.
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  6. #6

    Smile Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Try Bond No. 9 Fashion Avenue- Top note is Mimosa, ylang ylang and black currant.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I love mimosa! I live in Grasse and the mimosa season has recently passed. The smell of mimosa is intoxicating and heady. It is a raw material (comes in the absolute form, extracted by solvents in fact) that I absolutely love and planning on creating fragrances around this note in the near future!

    The list of mimosa containing fragrances is pretty complete. There should be a touch of mimosa in Kenzo Flower and its summer derivatives.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I have some Mimosaique and I don't think it will satisfy you -- I find it rather sweet and a bit soapy. But I'd be happy to send you a sample.

    I also love this note, especially after trying Une Fleur de Cassie. I bought a small vial of diluted Cassie absolute from this site: http://www.naturesgift.com/essential...e-absolute.htm so I could see what it smells like on its own. I highly recommend getting some.

    Another scent I really like for the mimosa note is Hermes Caleche Fleurs de Mediterranee, which is unfortunately not available right now but may return again (so I hear). But like Fleur de Cassie, it's a rather complex scent and not a soliflore. I also like the mimosa in the opening of Champs Elysees but I find the drydown pretty generic.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    My nose always confuses mimosa and honeysuckle.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  10. #10

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    My nose always confuses mimosa and honeysuckle.
    They seem very similar to me in some cases too - and it depends on the honeysuckle I find. In some scents, the "honeysuckle note" is in fact a green, stem note (Le Chevrefeuille by AG for example), but in some, it comes across as more of a floral note. I find some best mimosa-florals end up doing a flip-flop in my head between a proper honeyed, milky honeysuckle in bloom (what it actually smells like in my garden or in hedges all over the neighbourhood) and a mimosa. Glad I'm not the only one!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    My nose always confuses mimosa and honeysuckle.
    Here is the strange thing; I have lived with mimosa blooming all around me and with honeysuckle blooming all around me and I see (smell) them as totally different.

    In perfumes, however, there is a resemblance and that's waht drives me crazy.

    There is something about varieties of mimosa at play here. Or honeysuckle, I suppose.

    I'll try them all, penelope99, sucrose.


    Scentophile, I would love to be your first customer when that mimosa comes out. Please don't sweeten it!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 21st April 2009 at 12:31 AM.
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    This is such an interesting thread!
    If a green, dry honeysuckle scent might interest you, I can certainly recommend Creed's Chevrefeuille Original. I like that scent, very much.
    Not mimosa but we may find things to appreciate in kissin' cousins.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  13. #13

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    This is such an interesting thread!
    If a green, dry honeysuckle scent might interest you, I can certainly recommend Creed's Chevrefeuille Original. I like that scent, very much.
    Not mimosa but we may find things to appreciate in kissin' cousins.

    The topic fascinates and frustrates me, as I would truly love a scent that is not necessarily all mimosa ,all day, but a scent that features mimosa and interprets it not in a sweet, powdery, girlie or gourmand way, but that sticks to the mood of the natural scent .

    The honeysuckle that grows here is very sweet and cloying--nothing like mimosa. So I think I'll stay away from honeysuckle just to resist further complicating my quest. I love the scent of honeysuckle, but not in perfume.

    Maybe I'll end up creating my own by layering the diluted cassie absolute with something ....

    I'm starting to think that mimosa is simply not a desirable scent to most perfume-wearers (but that it does nice things to other notes) and that's why it is so contorted and masked in most blends.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 22nd April 2009 at 02:00 PM.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I was inspired to try my sample of Czech&Speake Mimosa. Here are my initial impressions:
    A gorgeous floral scent. Heady, briefly a bit "rubbery". An ornate cloud, slightly sweet but not at all cloying or heavy. An appealing drydown that is dry and translucent. Overall effect is somewhat like lily of the valley but more powerful.

    I wonder if what I call rubbery is what nostalgie calls bleachy. I don't know enough about mimosa to benchmark this one, but I'd say it is very good.
    The scent lists mimosa, jasmine and tuberose at its heart. I'm usually not a florals person but this is very nice because it is not sweet.
    Last edited by odysseusm; 21st April 2009 at 12:22 PM.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  15. #15

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    I was inspired to try my sample of Czech&Speake Mimosa. Here are my initial impressions:
    A gorgeous floral scent. Heady, briefly a bit "rubbery". An ornate cloud, slightly sweet but not at all cloying or heavy. An appealing drydown that is dry and translucent. Overall effect is somewhat like lily of the valley but more powerful.


    Odysseum , "rubbery" may be the bleachy I mentioned. I can never quite put my finger on it but there is something bordering on highly unnatural in the scent of natural mimosa blossoms. They remind me of the way produce smells at big French grocery stores and some American groceries--not the produce itself, that is, but something that has been used to wash it or...cringe....preserve it.

    I wonder if what I call rubbery is what nostalgie calls bleachy. I don't know enough about mimosa to benchmark this one, but I'd say it is very good.
    The scent lists mimosa, jasmine and tuberose at its heart. I'm usually not a florals person but this is very nice because it is not sweet.
    I just contacted them about samples.
    Have also ordered the absolute sucrose recommended.[Thank you for offering the sample of Mimosaique--I am going to make absolutley sure I don't have some in my great box-o-samples and decants and may come crying to you!]

    All of you are terrific. I will report back. I still have amy pathetic stash of dried up mimosa , which I brought back in early April, for reference. Still smells heavenly.

    [Exploring an old thread I found Ayala Moriel has the following, which seems to capture the way mimosa smells, as long as the jasmine and frangipani can behave; violet leaf and mimosa sound like a brilliant combo]

    Les Nuages de Joie Jaune

    Drifting in yellow clouds of happiness. Soft and fuzzy mimosa blossoms. Notes of cassie, franigpani, jasmine and violet complement the ethereal quality of mimosa in full bloom, blowing in the wind and dancing in the sun.

    Famlies: Floral Green, Soliflore (Singular Note)

    Notes: Cabreuva, Cassie , Frangipani Jasmine Grandiflorum , Mimosa, Orris Root Vanilla Absolute, Violet Leaf,
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 21st April 2009 at 11:54 PM.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Nostalgie, it is amazing that you bring up Ayala Moriel. I was just thinking today that you might contact her. She can design a bespoke fragrance, in addition to her pre-made ones. I recommend her highly. I don't have a bespoke, but I'm very satisfied with her wonderful pre-made fragrances. They are very subtle and use a high proportion of natural ingredients. And she is a very creative and nice person!
    I'm sure she'd be open to hearing your love of mimosa, and she might have a suggestion for you.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  17. #17

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Odysseum,I have ordered a sample. Crossing my fingers!

    Here is some info that assures me I am not totally eccentric in my reaction (disappointment) to the interpretation of mimosa in most perfume:


    "...it is almost impossible to find an oil that naturally smells of mimosa as, with so many materials, the oil smells nothing like the primary ingredient. In this case the oil often smells powdery."
    (Roja Dove, The Essence of Perfume, p.53)


    I believe this is what the perfumer in Italy was trying to explain to me--in Italian.

    It also explains why so many "mimosa" scents are powdery, sweet, girly, unlike the flower.

    So I guess that what I really want is a synthetic mimosa so that it smells real?????
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 22nd April 2009 at 02:00 PM.
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  18. #18

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Well, good luck to you, nostalgie on your quest.
    Here is a mimosa smiley to bring you luck.



    I can appreciate the search for a scent that replicates nature. Pine is like that for me. Pine oil can be very refreshing and brisk, but it is difficult to capture the smell of a deep pine forest.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  19. #19

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    What sounds to me that could satisfy your mimosa cravings is the sadly discontinued Alberta Ferretti Femina: a green-earthy unsweet scent with a floral mimosa heart and a bewitching allure

  20. #20

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post
    What sounds to me that could satisfy your mimosa cravings is the sadly discontinued Alberta Ferretti Femina: a green-earthy unsweet scent with a floral mimosa heart and a bewitching allure
    Sigh. Tears. EDIT: But I see it is still available for cyber shoppers!

    Still haven't had a chance to try Kenzo Summer but I just read that there is a strong almond note, so I'm not overly optimistic.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 25th April 2009 at 09:09 PM.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I know you have all been biting your nails wondering how my mimosa quest is going....

    While I haven't tried all of your suggestions yet, I have gotten my hands on quite a few.

    I do now understand the problem with mimosa (well MY problem) and here it is.


    Mimosa Absolute
    I have now sampled mimosa absolute ,pure and diluted. Of all the absolutes I have smelled, this is the very least like the actual flower. There is an almondly bit around the edges (that is nowhere in the flowers I've smelled) --faintly present in the absolute.

    Since the absolute would be quite dry without that hint of almond, I think some perfumers tend to go with that almond, crank it up, and make it sweet ([B]Farnesiana, Après l'Ondée). This has contributed to the urban fragrance legend that mimosa is sweet and almondy. Many of these blends include heliotrope (synthetic, I think) which does not smell like mimosa, but i smells almondy, and heliotrope is so often blended with mimosa, that the two could be confused in scent memory and identification--especially if one has not smelled the actual flowers or absolutes.I love these fragrances, but they do not give me a mimosa fix.

    Others de-emphasize the almond, refrain from adding any other strong floral notes, and end up with a drier mix, close to the absolute, and which to me is closer to the real thing than the almond concoctions. Examples: (Mimosa pour moi, Femina, Nuages de Joie Jaune)--and [JUST tried--thank you sucrose] Mimosaique.


    Still others use mimosa as a cushioning middle note, but bury it in stronger, pushier floral notes (Kenzo Summer is a good example: there is some mimosa in the middle, which tones down the other potentially sharp notes, but (on me at least) does the mimosa does not shine on its own. Kenzo Summer smells (and nicely,I may add) at first like sweet, indole-packed flowers (lily of the valley or jasmine or honeysuckle--all opposites of mimosa to me), and then freesia takes over through the dry down. I detect the mimosa absolute, but it is awfully hard to compete with freesia. [Note--I seem to be hyper sensitive to freesia. It "blinds" my nose to other notes].

    The indescribably wonderful scent of mimosa that makes it so unique is nowhere to be found in the absolute, though. Sigh.

    So far I find Une Fleur de Cassie to be the best interpretation of mimosa. It is not a literal translation, but the dirty cumin note is a good choice for capturing the character, the vibe of the flower nicely.

    Another (new) favorite: Mimosaique; like Une Fleur de Cassie, Mimosaique goes beyond mimosa absolte to create something new, without ever losing that mimosa absolute core, but without going sweet, almondy, or overly floral. Mimosaique is green where Une Fleur de Cassie is dirty. I think green, dirty, vegetal, woody, orrisy--anything but sweet, floral, gourmand (Guerlain and Caron and Kenzo have that covered-- are all great directions to explore for mimosa absolute.

    The real thing

    If you live in a climate where it grows (parts of California, south of France, etc.) the scent is very familiar, even common. However I would guess that a lot of people who buy perfumes featuring mimosa absolute have not smelled the real thing, and have come to define the absolute note as mimosa.

    There mustn't be enough interest in marketing the scent of the actual flower, or perfumers could have come up with a synthetic (cf. lily of the valley--popular enough to be recreated). Sigh.

    I've now tested loads of "mimosa" and can say with confidence that none of them smells like the flower, though they all smell more like the mimosa flower than they do like rose, gardenia, lily of the valley, magnolia, honeysuckle, jasmine, tuberose, violet, violet leaf--well , you get the idea. It is kind of like saying I look like Jennifer Annsiton b/c I look more like her than like Courtney Cox, David Schwimmer, Lisa Kudrow....

    Thanks for indulging my obsession--and for all the suggestions. While I haven't found mimosa-in-a-bottle, I have discovered some great new scents.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 4th May 2009 at 08:28 PM. Reason: tried another one!
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    SO odd - when I wear Summer by Kenzo it becomes a milky/almondy mimosa; pretty much nothing else. Those in the know have said "ahh, you're in Mimosa Pour Moi" and I have to correct them.

    Thank you for sharing your findings; I'm definitely curious about some of the scents you've mentioned!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nukapai View Post
    SO odd - when I wear Summer by Kenzo it becomes a milky/almondy mimosa; pretty much nothing else. Those in the know have said "ahh, you're in Mimosa Pour Moi" and I have to correct them.

    Thank you for sharing your findings; I'm definitely curious about some of the scents you've mentioned!

    Thanks for following and indulging this obsessive scent quest with me!

    Well maybe half the problem is my chemistry --skin and nose, both of them.

    I am ultra sensitive to the smell of freesia--it tends to be all I can smell if it is in blend, and it smells very soapy on my skin. I could try the Kenzo Summer for a longer stretch of time. I find it pleasant once that freesia dies down a bit. There was a magical moment when it was glorious, but that didn't last long on me. I'll have to spray a friend and experience some sillage.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 3rd May 2009 at 10:57 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Thanks for the follow up Nostalgie.

    When I first read your thread question, I silently assumed there was not a scent on the market that smells like a real mimosa. Nice to find out that my assumption was correct.

    Une Fleur de Cassie sounds wonderful. It's one of the Malle's I haven't smelled.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

  25. #25

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Thanks for the follow up Nostalgie.

    When I first read your thread question, I silently assumed there was not a scent on the market that smells like a real mimosa. Nice to find out that my assumption was correct.

    Une Fleur de Cassie sounds wonderful. It's one of the Malle's I haven't smelled.

    Thanks,MP,

    And thanks for making me feel I'm not completely crazed.

    I don't want to get your hopes up too much , though. It does not smell literally like the flower, that's certain, but as interpretations go, it comes much closer than anything else to the "mood" (for lack of a better word) of mimosa.

    I often wish Edmond Roudnitska had had a mimosa tree rather than lily of the valley in the garden that fateful day...

    Une Fleur de Cassie has a dirty cumin note that some people do not like (they find it a bit BO-ish).
    I can send you a sample if you like.

    I think it is one of Frederic Malle's best.
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 5th May 2009 at 09:38 PM.
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  26. #26

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Nostalgie, as a fellow mimosa lover, it was nice to read your analysis. You probably know Mimosaique has been discontinued. Nicolai makes a beautiful mimosa soap still.

    I should try Une Fleur de Cassie again. I thought the beginning was absolutely foul and the drydown much better. True mimosa does have that pretty/dirty thing going on, so I should try the fragrance with that in mind.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    This is such an interesting thread. I wish I could smell that marvelous blossom.
    If you acquire the Czech&Speake Mimosa, please post your reaction to it. That is my only point of connection to mimosa, and I'd be interested to hear if it bears any relation to the actual flower.
    Cheers,
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  28. #28

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    This is such an interesting thread. I wish I could smell that marvelous blossom.
    If you acquire the Czech&Speake Mimosa, please post your reaction to it. That is my only point of connection to mimosa, and I'd be interested to hear if it bears any relation to the actual flower.
    Cheers,

    I did order samples from Czech and Speake (thanks for the tip) and I'll be sure to compare and contrast!
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
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  29. #29

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    There's one Mimosa scent I'd like to add: the Pur Desir de Mimosa from Yves Rocher. I have it in the solid form and find it very nice and fresh, not sweet or almondy. I appreciate it might not have the richer, dirtier quality you get from the real flower, but I was pleasantly surprised by it.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  30. #30

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    There's one Mimosa scent I'd like to add: the Pur Desir de Mimosa from Yves Rocher. I have it in the solid form and find it very nice and fresh, not sweet or almondy. I appreciate it might not have the richer, dirtier quality you get from the real flower, but I was pleasantly surprised by it.
    Thank you, Wordbird. I will give it a try.
    It is so much fun to test compare all of these mimosas.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
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  31. #31

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Hello fellow perfume pervs!

    Really interesting to hear opinions on mimosa scents. I'd like to know what the yves rocher mimosa edt is like - I hear that their gardenia was, & their lilac is, good. I tried the rose & was dissapointed (strawberry jam); but a lot of people like it. It is so great to find cheap & cheerful stuff that hits a spot.

    L'occitane do a mimosa, but don't bother with that - it's nothing like.

    YSL Cinema has a mimosa dimension to my nose, but that is only a part.

    Molinard do a mimosa:

    http://www.molinard.com/produit_deta...rticles_id=614

    I wonder what that is like?

    Santa Maria Novella do one; I LOVE LOVE LOVE some of their colognes. That would be a great one to try. Anyone tried it?

  32. #32

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    I am in love with the mimosa that grows in the south of France (and elsewhere, of course): the yellow puffy buds growing on branches, sold in abundance all over France once they are in bloom (usually beginning in February).

    1) The mimosa I am talking about is called acacia farnesiana (not to be confused with acacia) , also called "cassie" (not to be confused with cassis or cassia) in French [This could be the first error! Maybe it is another variety I am thinking of?]
    I grew up in Athens and I still remember the flowering mimosa trees lining small side streets in Kallithea, a fragrance I always associated with the tree and not the flower because it didn't smell flowery or sweet to me.

    I checked the 2nd volume of the Ferminich olfactory kits I recently received.
    One of the blossoms is Mimosa, listed as natural raw material. But the species the booklet refers to is Acacia decurrens. All the fragrances the booklet mentions (led by Pur Desir Mimosa of Yves Rocher, 2005) basenoters have already mentioned.

    The booklet, with its preface by Jacques Cavallier, lists the descriptors of Mimosa as:
    Floral - fresh - powdery - honeyed. Moreover it says.."smells like honey, thanks to its sweet, creamy tonalities".

    My nose and memory agree with the 'fresh' but not the rest. I get the 'fresh' from the small bottle but not the honey.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by jdemetre View Post
    I grew up in Athens and I still remember the flowering mimosa trees lining small side streets in Kallithea, a fragrance I always associated with the tree and not the flower because it didn't smell flowery or sweet to me.

    I checked the 2nd volume of the Ferminich olfactory kits I recently received.
    One of the blossoms is Mimosa, listed as natural raw material. But the species the booklet refers to is Acacia decurrens. All the fragrances the booklet mentions (led by Pur Desir Mimosa of Yves Rocher, 2005) basenoters have already mentioned.

    The booklet, with its preface by Jacques Cavallier, lists the descriptors of Mimosa as:
    Floral - fresh - powdery - honeyed. Moreover it says.."smells like honey, thanks to its sweet, creamy tonalities".

    My nose and memory agree with the 'fresh' but not the rest. I get the 'fresh' from the small bottle but not the honey.
    It could be that I have the wrong info on acacia farnesiana vs acacia decurrens.

    I'm not sure which of those I was smelling "in person" when I lived in the south of France.
    But I agree, whichever it was, it was not sweet, not powdery, not particularly floral, and also not in the least bit almondy.

    I agree with you--=that description does not fit the flower 9except the "fresh' part). Not honeyed or powdery.

    That does fit the description of mimosa absolutes that is I have smelled (whcih were called acacia farnesiana).

    I suspect the absolutes are pretty much the same.

    I'm also convinced that any perfume with a mimosa note is bound to disapoint the person looking for the scent of real mimosa--though these perfumes can be pleasing in theri own way.

    I've grown very fond of Farnesiana by Caron, and Mimosa pour moi and Mimosaique, even though they smell almost nothing like mimosa blooms.

    I am delighted to find a fellow perfumer out there who knows how wonderful and strangely beautiful l the real thing smells!
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 11th May 2009 at 01:04 AM.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

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  34. #34

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nostalgie View Post
    I did order samples from Czech and Speake (thanks for the tip) and I'll be sure to compare and contrast!
    Curiosity may have killed the cat... it is tugging at my mind too. I wonder if the C&S samples arrived? And...??
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  35. #35

    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    I can chime in with some info.

    C&S Mimosa has a great topnote, not unlike Fleur de Cassie, but sadly fades to a boring musk. As far as im concerned, you can get no better than the Malle. I have samples on the way of Nicolai's (sadly discontinued) and YR's. Will report back.

  36. #36
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    Default Re: Mimosa-help please!

    Nostalgie,

    I suggest contacting Linda at The Perfumer's Apprentice
    http://www.perfumersapprentice.com/

    She's in Santa Barbara. She's a gardener. She helps people develop their own personal fragrances. And she's been very helpful with my questions.

    Good luck.

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