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  1. #1
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    Default Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    A while back I came across the following article on dark rose fragrances.

    I adore Rose de Nuit, and thus L'Arte Di Gucci jumped right to the top of my must-try list! Right now I'm wondering if it's a safe blind buy given my love of rose, and in particular my love of Rose de Nuit.

    Already faced with this possibility, what should I come across but this article, praising Soir de Lune and also mentioning Gucci III.

    So, if L'Arte de Gucci is superior to Rose de Nuit, and Soir de Lune is superior to L'Arte de Gucci, then Soir de Lune is clearly awesome sauce personified in rose chypre form. I'm wondering if I should bother with L'Arte at all.

    Not really asking for a solution here. I'm just in a, ahem, financially limited situation, and would like to hear some thoughts on these three before I buy. Especially interesting to hear from those who've tried Rose de Nuit and can draw some comparisons.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    All four -- despite the rose note -- are very different. There is also Czech and Speake Dark Rose -- fabulous scent in my book.

    L'Arte -- try finding it! -- is the best choice for you, I think, in terms of similarity to Rose de Nuit. But -- once again -- I do not know of any place where it is readily available.

    Sisley Soir de Lune -- I had a bottle but it got swapped away. Became too cloying on me the first day of wear to the point that I could only tolerate it the next day.

    Gucci III -- have not had a single drop of it since last year, but it is a very very interesting fragrance juxtopposing sharp bergamot and dusty roses. There is a certain "furniture/floor polish" vibe about it as well as other flowers in the bouquet in addition to roses, Paganini La Campanella for me. My favorite of the four.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I own Rose de Nuit and have tried L´Arte and Gucci III, and like Twolf I find them rather different. I also agree that L´Arte is the most similar to RdN, but even more elegant and "expensive" smelling. This one makes me think of jewells and furs... It is also the most "feminine" of the three I have tried. I AM considering a bottle one day though it might be a bit hard for me to wear. Reminds me a bit of Caron´s Or et Noir too, but that one is more cloying on me.

    No III reminds me of a MUCH drier Voleur de Roses. Totally unisex and different from every other rose I have smelled. This is a bit more wearable and also somewhere on my wishlist.
    Last edited by pelle; 21st April 2009 at 10:11 AM.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Well, as my username suggests, I am a Soir de Lune afficionado. Regrettably, I cannot compare it with the others you mention, though I can say that the quality and longevity of SdL is truly excellent, and that it develops beautifully. It also has a woodiness that I find delightful. It is not the cheapest fragrance on the market, but I can vouch that a little goes a mighty long way.

    I haven't seen L'Arte in years -- is is readily available where you are?

    Agree with Twolf that C & S Dark Rose is a delicious alternative, with a light, aoud aspect, but its longevity does not begin to compare with SdL. Ditto Cabaret, which is a very affordable, 'crystalline' rose chypre -- really pretty but, again, lasts but a couple of hours on my skin.

    Hope you enjoy your new scent, whichever one you choose!
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  5. #5

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Well, I am coming at this question with a partial and somewhat biased view, but I would like to cast my vote for L'Arte di Gucci. I agree that it is the most feminine and expensive smelling, and...get this.....despite a little bit of civet in there somewhere, I still like it very much, which, believe me, is praise indeed. I would discount Rose de Nuit as the civet is too intrusive, I expect Gucci III would be offputtingly animalic too, though I haven't tried it, while Soirdelune I find a bit "choky-woody-powdery". With apologies to its dear namesake on this site!
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Rossy de Palm,a from Etat Libre d´Orange might be worth trying. it´s considerably cheap for a niche perfume, it´s a rather bright Rose and maybe a bit brighter than Rose de Nuit ( it doesn´t have the typical Lutens feel to it) and I´d say more chypre like than Rose de Nuit.

    I´d recommend trying Aoud rose Petals if you like the lutens quality in rose de nuit but it won´t help your financial situation.
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
    Currently wearing: L by Lolita Lempicka

  7. #7

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    never in my wildest dreams would I have guessed that soir de lune had rose notes in it. i have just finished a miniature (have a few backups) and find it to be quite masculine on me. like the others have mentioned, i am very impressed with it's longevity.

    i now want to try l'arte, i love the sound of luxurious smelling rose.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Galamb, have you considered Estee Lauder Knowing? It is a mossy rose chypre, massive longevity and very affordable. Sillage is also very strong, so a little goes a long way--great bang for the buck!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Thanks for all the advice! Now I'm really tempted to blind buy L'Arte ( I saw it for sale online at 1stperfume for 29$... though I've heard some bad things about 1stperfume ).

    I'll definitely be checking out Estee Lauder Knowing and Sisley's Soir de Lune, too. Gucci III I suspect is not for me - comparisons to furniture polish and Voleur de Roses turn me off it.

    I'm a fan of Czech & Speake Dark Rose already, and would own a bottle if I didn't already own the delightful Mukhallat Al Emirates, a similar fragrance with better longevity. I'm not actively hunting for another oud rose - this little side-quest in my rose obsession is a hunt for a rose chypre.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Galamb, have you considered Estee Lauder Knowing? It is a mossy rose chypre, massive longevity and very affordable. Sillage is also very strong, so a little goes a long way--great bang for the buck!
    I'd second that -- Luca Turin gave it 5 stars and called it "mossy rose." Try dabbing it, instead of spraying -- this stuff is ... hmm... powerful!

    You can try it at any Este Lauder counter.
    Last edited by kess; 21st April 2009 at 07:46 PM.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by kess View Post
    I'd second that -- Luca Turin gave it 5 stars and called it "mossy rose." Try dabbing it, instead of spraying -- this stuff is ... hmm... powerful!

    You can try it at any Este Lauder counter.
    Neat! I think I'll go and give it a try today - I know there's an Estee Lauder counter at The Bay downtown. I'll let you all know what I think.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Coincidence: I almost posted that you should try Knowing, when I read your post this morning Galamb. Please let us know how you like it.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Next time try Azuree and Aliage, if they have it. Also try White Linen. All need decent dri-down time.
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  14. #14

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    For dark rose chypres I really like Aromatics Elexir.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    What about Nuit de Noel. I was reading that it was aslo a rose chypre with an oriental dry down? I just ordered a bottle from Parfum1, their sale was to good to pass up. What catagory do you guys think it falls in? Do you like it?

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I like Nuit de Noel, personally. I think it's one of the easiest Carons to wear. Not overbearing or wimpy, right down the middle. The Noel part comes in when you might pick up on a bit of cinnamon/nutmeg (Xmas) spices. It's very light in the chypre/aldehyde treatment. One of the best!
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  17. #17

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I love Knowing. I love Aromatics Elixir, too, but not on me. I smelled it on a dept. store SA once and didn't recognize it, it was so glorious smelling. Another one I like very much is Agent Provocateur. I've never owned it but I think it's wonderful stuff.

  18. #18
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Well, I cannot think of anything I like more than L'Arte these days, besides Jil Sander 4 (another dark rose chypre for you to try very much in the Knowing vein, but finer, I'd venture).


    And for the record, I dislike Soir de Lune. Go figure.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Well, I tried L'Arte this morning.

    I am so glad I did not blind buy this!

    The opening is rather interesting. It's a big, fruity, jammy rose mounted on a chypre base. After the first fifteen minutes, it starts to change its character, warming with a warm, almost hot civet note that overpowers the chypre element and smothers the rose. Then something other than civet joins it, something unnameable, something horrible, something that made this a scrubber... a truly massive cheese note.

    Civet and cheese?



    No thanks.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Oh, my goodness! And I have been trawling the internet looking for a mini of this stuff!

    Your picture certainly paints a thousand words!!!
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  21. #21

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    This is weird, isn't it, because I am super sensitive to civet, as you all know, yet could tolerate the modest amount I detected in this. However, I once did a three way comparison of L'Arte on myself and two friends, and on one of us, this scent was utterly gross from the moment she applied it to skin. Didn't even smell of rose, not even fleetingly. Just indescribable and multiple sources of grossness, which may have included cheese - we were all too traumatised to remember clearly. So you and she may be related at some deep dermatological level. She is an aromatherapist and I bet she needed to slather on her entire cabinet of essential oils afterwards to mask the evil vestiges of this one...
    Last edited by VM I hate civet; 8th May 2009 at 12:46 PM.
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by VM I hate civet View Post
    This is weird, isn't it, because I am super sensitive to civet, as you all know, yet could tolerate the modest amount I detected in this. However, I once did a three way comparison of L'Arte on myself and two friends, and on one of us, this scent was utterly gross from the moment she applied it to skin. Didn't even smell of rose, not even fleetingly. Just indescribable and multiple sources of grossness, which may have included cheese - we were all too traumatised to remember clearly. So you and she may be related at some deep dermatological level. She is an aromatherapist and I bet she needed to slather on her entire cabinet of essential oils afterwards to mask the evil vestiges of this one...
    Very interesting! It's amazing how skin chemistry can totally transform a fragrance. I have noticed that my skin can play havoc with some leather and tobacco fragrances ( the former turning to soap and the latter to chlorine, smell-wise ). This is the first time a chypre has gone wonky on me, so I'm glad to know I'm not alone!

    Quote Originally Posted by soirdelune View Post
    Oh, my goodness! And I have been trawling the internet looking for a mini of this stuff!
    Well, you never know - it might smell great on you! I'd just advise giving it a sample before spending any serious cash.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I was reading this & I wanted to mention; Jill Sander 4 is strong deep tuberose. Pretty heady stuff.

    Have you tried Boucheron Homme, Galomb? http://www.osmoz.com/fragrances/Jewe...on-pour-Homme#
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Well, I tried L'Arte this morning.

    I am so glad I did not blind buy this!

    The opening is rather interesting. It's a big, fruity, jammy rose mounted on a chypre base. After the first fifteen minutes, it starts to change its character, warming with a warm, almost hot civet note that overpowers the chypre element and smothers the rose. Then something other than civet joins it, something unnameable, something horrible, something that made this a scrubber... a truly massive cheese note.

    Civet and cheese?


    No thanks.
    This is what I experienced with Knowing. It's so weird indeed how the body chemistry can change a fragrance.

    The first impression about Knowing was positive. A nice opening, not sweet al all, clean, aldehydes and spices. The heart notes revealed a woody rose. But the drydown was a disaster on me. My nose is like a radar when it comes to civet (it's not that I don't like it, but too much of anything is not good...). So I went home looking on basenotes to confirm my suspicion, but not a hint about civet in the reviews. On osmoz I've found in the pyramid of notes the "culprit". It has patchouli, oakmoss and civet. Tones of civet on me, oakmoss dumped in civet and dripping. And it last and it last and it last. I hardly removed it scrubbing it two times with olive oil and with make up remover twice.

    I'm sorry Asha, I know how much you like Knowing. God knows I've tried...
    Last edited by anais; 9th May 2009 at 01:07 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  25. #25

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I have just received a quantity of Andy Tauer's anticipated "Une Rose Chyprée" release which is a wonderful rose chypre focusing on rosa damascena (using the absolute and the steam-distilled oil). From what I have sampled thus far, it fits wonderfully into the dark rose chypre category... rich and opulent, and full of whimsy.

    I am going to post a blog review about it in the next few days and offer a small competition to win some samples.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    It definitely does - good thinking, batman!

    I found this a bit "werrrr!" going on - I always seem to get a tingly, almost medicinal note mixed in with incense in the openings of most Tauers - but the drydown got nicely rosey, whilst still being powdery/woody/smoky.
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.com/

  27. #27
    Dependent RHM's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Dimitri, I'd read somewhere else that you were wearing this...perhaps SOTD. I can't wait to try AT's Rose Chypre!
    Now...GB, if you will pm me, I will decant you some Rosy d'Palma & Soir de Lune for you to test....if you would like. I would also second (or third) the Knowing suggestion. Also, I've gotten my hands on some DSH Perfume rose scents & can send you a bit of her Rose Vert for you to sample as well.
    It will just be a little bit but will give you an idea of what they are like before you invest in a bottle.

  28. #28
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    You really shouldn't overlook Jil Sander 4
    You know, Turin call Soir de Lune a cheap knock off of Montana Parfum de Peau

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Agent Provacateur & Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP come to mind for this category.
    Last edited by kumquat; 12th May 2009 at 03:52 AM.
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  30. #30

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by RHM View Post
    Dimitri, I'd read somewhere else that you were wearing this...perhaps SOTD. I can't wait to try AT's Rose Chypre!
    Hello RHM, thats correct! Actually Ive just posted a review and competition on my blog so you can win a sample of Andy's latest. Follow the link in my siggy below.

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