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  1. #31
    pomander's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Oh Chpyres. How I LOVE this category.

    I've always liked Knowing, but found it difficult to wear because of it's Atlas strength. I remember how I envied my best friend who wore it so well back in the early 90s.. Recently, I bought Knowing Lotion, and I apply that as I would a perfume. It's great! Works much better for me.

    I would like to suggest another scent, Paloma Picasso. This fragrance to me, is similar to Knowing in overall scent character (deep, rosy Chypre - yuuummm), but much smoother, and absolutely gorgeous. I just re-purchased this (owned a bottle back when it was released) and the re-formulated version is very similar, and here's the best part, even more wearable than I remember it! The older version used to turn on me in the drydown - the new version doesn't.
    Last edited by pomander; 15th May 2009 at 12:29 AM.
    "You can't change the past, but you can ruin the present by worrying about the future."

    "Three essentials for a good life: Someone to love, somewhere to go, and something to look forward to."

  2. #32
    Asha's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I love Knowing, but I also have trouble with this and almost all Estee Lauder scents--there is something in them that gives me an allergic reaction. That is why I sold my bottle, but I never thought to buy the lotion, even though I often wear fragrances in lotion form.

    Also, I just retested PdN Odalisque after testing it last year some time. I think this may qualify as a Rose Chypre also--much more muted than Knowing, and it does not cause a reaction!

  3. #33
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    Sugandaraja's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Soir de Lune is delightful! I want thank RHM for sending me a sample of this one - much appreciated.

    The top notes are sparkling yet soft, complex without being discordant. The opening smells very "busy", as though all the performers in the show were being introduced before the curtain rises on act one. The chypre accord is there, as are fruity, floral, spicy and animal notes; a wine-like rose, patchouli, lemon, bergamont, peach, musk and oakmoss all quite discernible from the beginning. I swear there's a hint of immortelle here, too, or at least some similar warm spicy note that hovers in the background top to base.

    The heart is mellow, refined and "classical", the fruitiness of the citrus and peach dying down and more of the oakmoss coming through, made slightly powdery by a warm floral component - a softer rose accompanied by a lightly fruity jasmine and mimosa.

    In many ways I think this a very clever chypre accord in that the rich darkness of the moss note is mostly achieved through patchouli. This isn't a patchouli fragrance, but patchouli gives the chypre accord body and depth. Though the two fragrances are chalk and cheese, patchouli's role here is similar to its use in C&S's No. 88.

    The base is rich and mossy, but unlike both Knowing and Rose De Nuit, there isn't a heavy thickness about it. It's not transparent, either, but nicely balanced somewhere in the middle. In fact, balance is probably the cardinal virtue of this fragrance. It contains a diversity of notes, yet manages to hold them all together in a chypre wrapping.

    This is probably one of the few classically restrained fragrances I love. I'm attracted to bold, unusual and loud, but the understated complexity of this fragrance has charmed me. It's now my favorite chypre - yes, even over vintage Mitsouko - and is a must-own down the road a bit.

  4. #34
    anais's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Galamb, I suggest you to try Diva by Ungaro, an absolutely beautiful rose chypree.
    The rose in Diva is close to the rose in Coco by Chanel but the rose is not so boozy and the civet is in smaller amounts. Both Coco and Diva are made by Jacques Polges.
    I can detect some similarities with Knowing too, but Diva is not so heavy, it has less oakmoss and less civet. To me Diva is more elegant.
    Last edited by anais; 28th May 2009 at 02:30 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  5. #35

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Lancome Sikkim comes to mind. It doesn't get much play, yet it is squarely in this category. You'll find minis on eBay at good prices. It was recently part of La Collection (along with Magie, Sagamore, Climat, and Mille).

    Never mind the senselessness of the florid advertisement.

    I clipped these notes from Beauty Encounter:
    Aldehydes, Gardenia, Galbanum, Caraway, Bergamot, Carnation, Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Narcissus, Amber, Leather, Patchouli, Coconut, Oakmoss, Vetiver

    Because I have never tried L'Arte and I can't stand Soir, for me Sikkim is closest to Rose de Nuit, but it is a damper rose with less of a bramble effect in the base. Perhaps it is similar to Agent Provocateur, without as much powdery provocation. I get tons of rose, oakmoss, and vetiver out of it (coconut? HUH?).

  6. #36

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I'm glad you like Soir de Lune, Galamb.

    LT deserves a kick in the nuts for dissing it
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  7. #37

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    I'm right there with you soirdelune.
    Soir de Lune is a huge favourite of mine, having a beautiful, beautiful drydown.

    I suspect that anyone who thinks it's somehow bad (meaning the quality, not whether one likes it not, 'cause that's just a matter of taste as we all know) either has only tested it on paper or has not taken the time to wait for the drydown on skin...
    Last edited by Cumarin; 29th May 2009 at 01:04 PM.

  8. #38

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quiet little vote for Mukhallat Al Emirates...one of my favorite bedtime companions. But this is RULLY steamy nights in silk draped tents on multi-hued satin cushions and....and.....

    As one who critiques frags SOLELY on how they treat my bod (occasionally use a blotter for reference, but not for an opinion) I rate this THE smoldering rose chypre....
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  9. #39

    Default Re: Dark Rose Chypres - sorting out L'Arte Di Gucci, Gucci III and Soir de Lune

    Quote Originally Posted by Taolady View Post
    Quiet little vote for Mukhallat Al Emirates...one of my favorite bedtime companions. But this is RULLY steamy nights in silk draped tents on multi-hued satin cushions and....and.....

    As one who critiques frags SOLELY on how they treat my bod (occasionally use a blotter for reference, but not for an opinion) I rate this THE smoldering rose chypre....
    Another vote for the Emirates, though Une Rose Chyprée is as close to Dark Rose Chypre perfection that Im likely to find.

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