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  1. #1

    Question Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    On the Men's forum there is a thread on the "Coldest Masterpiece." By coldest they are not referring to actual temperature but to emotional coldness or the sense of austerity and aloofness that a fragrance can demonstrate. For example, some of the scents they have discussed are C&S no. 88, Iris Silver Mist, and Blenheim Bouquet. While very many fragrances are defined as classically feminine because they have notes that make them seem warmer (to me that would be traditional vanilla, tuberose, jasmine), undoubtably there are fragrances marketed to women that are also cold and austere. So, what do you think are the coldest women's masterpieces? Also, what notes do you see as being more austere?

    The first one that leapt to my mind was Chanel no. 19, but that sort of warms up on me at the end (probably the jasmine). I think it is the galbanum that might make it seem cool. That led me to Cristalle which is also is somewhat austere. What do you think?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    That's an interesting question. I'll be curious to read the responses. I used to think of No. 19 as a bit cold back in the day. I haven't sniffed it for ages, so I may not think so today. I think of some other green fragrances as a bit on the cool side, like Ivoire and Paco Rabanne's Metal. Estee Lauder Pleasures is a bit cool, which might be why I enjoy it most in summer. I agree with you that Cristalle (edt) is a bit austere. I like that about it.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    To me Alien and Poison before it dries down.I also agree that # 19 and L'heure bleue is on the cool side.
    Last edited by ineespenes; 24th April 2009 at 06:15 AM.

  4. #4
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Just off the tip of my tongue; No 19, Metal, Rive Gauche, Djedi, Iris Noir, Vent Vert, Diorissimo, Muguet de Bonheur.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser sa source

  5. #5

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    The original Fath de Fath. Like a garland laid upon an ice floe.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Ineespenes- your avatar is perfect for this thread!
    Brielle, I hadn't thought of Diorissimo as austere, but now that you mention it, I can see where you are headed with that one. It is very cool and green.
    I'm going to have to go to my sample box to reference some of these scents.
    In terms of common notes, I am seeing muget, iris, chypre, and aldehydes.

  7. #7
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Without a doubt, Apres L'Ondee fits that description.

  8. #8
    musse's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Rive Gauche, Aimez-Moi and Y came immediately to mind.

  9. #9
    Lian's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Jicky for me.
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
    Currently wearing: L by Lolita Lempicka

  10. #10

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Bluebell by Penhaligons, think chilly blue flowers poking up through thawing earth....BRRRR. Heard it was a favorite of Princess Diana. I do think it has it's own charm though. I just wish Penhaligon's lasted longer.

  11. #11
    anais's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    L'Heure Bleue. Despite the vanilla in the drydown, it's distant, cold and reptilian, gothic and haunting. I can smell it even in the moments I'm not wearing it. If a phantom would wear a fragrance, it would be L'Heure Bleue.
    ~ Anais ~

  12. #12
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by goldie View Post
    Brielle, I hadn't thought of Diorissimo as austere, but now that you mention it, I can see where you are headed with that one. It is very cool and green.
    I'm going to have to go to my sample box to reference some of these scents.
    In terms of common notes, I am seeing muget, iris, chypre, and aldehydes.

    It is definitely all Grace Kelly; perfectly groomed, dressed to perfection, gloves, hat, heels, make-up and hair perfect. Very cool sophisticated blonde, blue eyed.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser sa source

  13. #13

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    For cold, distant and aloof, yet at the same time, tempting, I've got to give it to vintage Guerlains, either Apres l'Ondee or L'Heure Bleu.
    Don a wig of larks and fly!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Lutens' tubereuse criminelle evokes a sense of distance/cool sexuality for me. I of course would not suggest tuberose as an austere note, but green and rubbery, true to life as Lutens' is, and restrained by camphor, it becomes an unwilling submissive.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Unisex but I think FM's Lys Mediterranee fits the bill. It's very cool and distant, and yet very alive.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by Rakhee View Post
    Lutens' tubereuse criminelle evokes a sense of distance/cool sexuality for me. I of course would not suggest tuberose as an austere note, but green and rubbery, true to life as Lutens' is, and restrained by camphor, it becomes an unwilling submissive.
    I definitely agree that Tubereuse Criminelle has a cool and aloof feel.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    For literally cold, ie they feel chilly on my skin(!), I would say La Pausa and Iris Silver Mist.

    For chilly as in austere, would agree with No 19 and Cristalle and Apres L'Ondee. I also find 31 Rue Cambon a bit austere, maybe also Love in Black, EL Private Collection (because of the reseda note) and Amouage Jubilation 25 (that would be "dirty austere", indeed!)

    Femme, Cabochard, Dioressence, Knize Ten, Bandit, Serge Noir, Borneo 1834 - all those "difficult" - and to my nose somewhat strange - scents I would also consider cold. Well, not cuddly and approachable, certainly.
    "So many scents, so little skin"...

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  18. #18
    Wordbird's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    The opening of Hiris is as chilly as anything I've smelled.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  19. #19

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    IVOIRE!!
    Escale a Portofino.
    Currently wearing: Cristobal by Balenciaga

  20. #20
    Wordbird's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    4711 ice!!!!
    Very cooling in hot summer weather.
    And I found Oh! de Moschino to be very cold and watery in not such a good way.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  21. #21

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Definitely agree with Hiris
    Jicky? To me this is lavender warmed with the hot lick of a cat/ dog/ cow's tongue (not meant to be as wierd as that sounds)
    Private Collection by EL - cool and collected

  22. #22

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I had forgotten about Ivoire- yes that one is austere. I can't believe I wore that as a teenager (but I wore no 19 then too!).
    L'Heure Bleu is so modern yet such a classic. I also adore Apres l'Ondee but because it reminds me of someone I love, it is hard for me to see it as cold. Isn't it funny how referencing certain smells inhibits your perception?
    Check out the men's forum to see what they are coming up with. If I get time this afternoon I will compare notes.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I agree with all of these. Maybe White Linen, as well?

  24. #24

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    L' Eau d'Hiver and Iris Silver Mist

  25. #25

    Therese's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Yes, Alba, yes. L'Eau d'Hiver most definitely I find JC Elena's Jardin series cold as well. Maybe it is just me, but I find Rose Poivree cold.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    For me it must be Bois d'iris. Probably this is why I love it so much.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by Therese View Post
    Yes, Alba, yes. L'Eau d'Hiver most definitely I find JC Elena's Jardin series cold as well. Maybe it is just me, but I find Rose Poivree cold.
    Quote Originally Posted by darkdreams View Post
    For me it must be Bois d'iris. Probably this is why I love it so much.
    It's funny how we're all different. I consider ROSE POIVREE and BOIS D'IRIS (two of my favorites, BTW) to be warmish fragrances.

    Of the fragrances I've tried, I'd pick the following to be on the "cold" list: HIRIS, IVOIRE, NO. 18, NO. 19, Etro ANICE, Lalique FLORA BELLA, and Les Nez THE UNICORN SPELL.

  28. #28
    anais's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    On the mens thread they discuss the term "masterpiece" too. And they don't seem to be so indulgent with it. In my opinion the iris note in some perfumes gives a certain coldness. Is it Hiris cold? Yes, indeed. Is it a masterpiece? I don't think so.
    Regarding Knize Ten, I don't perceive it cold or austere. It has a warm drydown to me, with a beautiful plushy oak moss and vanilla. Tabac Blond smells very similar but colder than Knize Ten, distant and austere.
    Yes, we are so different
    ~ Anais ~

  29. #29

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by senZuality View Post
    On the mens thread they discuss the term "masterpiece" too. And they don't seem to be so indulgent with it. In my opinion the iris note in some perfumes gives a certain coldness. Is it Hiris cold? Yes, indeed. Is it a masterpiece? I don't think so.
    Regarding Knize Ten, I don't perceive it cold or austere. It has a warm drydown to me, with a beautiful plushy oak moss and vanilla. Tabac Blond smells very similar but colder than Knize Ten, distant and austere.
    Yes, we are so different
    senZuality, I was only thinking "cold", not "masterpiece". Not sure how I missed that part of the question! On my list, I would agree that HIRIS is not a masterpiece. And FLORA BELLA, NO. 18, and ANICE are cold but not masterpieces. In my opinion, of course.

    So for my choices that would leave IVOIRE, NO. 19, and THE UNICORN SPELL. I consider those masterpieces.

  30. #30
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I think you're right about The Unicorn Spell, it conjures up an image of black dirt in March after the snow has just melted, that smell. That's cold & dark to me. Ivoire is mossy, but not so cold to me because the chypre notes push it into a sappy/tangy area that warms it up for me.

    I just wanted to mention that I don't think cold is necessarily a bad thing, it's just the other end of the spectrum from warm honey/amber fragrances. At least that's how I interpret this exercise.

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