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  1. #31
    arwen_elf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Jean Patou's 1000
    I agree with all the Chanels mentioned
    Evenstar

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    The title of this thread is "Women's Coldest Masterpiece". So you were thinking "cold" and "masterpiece". [Humble ] You've mentioned also the mens thread and their discussion about which masterpiece gets their vote for being the coldest. I thought you want to start the same discussion from the women's point of view. Pardon me, then.
    And Hiris, in my opinion, is not a cold masterpiece. It's only cold.
    Last edited by anais; 25th April 2009 at 01:31 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  3. #33

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    I think you're right about The Unicorn Spell, it conjures up an image of black dirt in March after the snow has just melted, that smell. That's cold & dark to me. Ivoire is mossy, but not so cold to me because the chypre notes push it into a sappy/tangy area that warms it up for me.

    I just wanted to mention that I don't think cold is necessarily a bad thing, it's just the other end of the spectrum from warm honey/amber fragrances. At least that's how I interpret this exercise.
    I agree with most of this (interesting description of THE UNICORN SPELL, kumquat!), but IVOIRE doesn't feel warm for me. I don't think cold is a bad thing, either. Though I seem to have more "warm" favorites, I love the cold austerity of IVOIRE (for example) when I'm in a certain mood.

    Quote Originally Posted by senZuality View Post
    And Hiris, in my opinion, is not a cold masterpiece. It's only cold.
    I agree with this, but I know some of the other women on this forum would differ!

    Another thought: Are there any incense fragrances that any of you would consider "cold"? I would think some would qualify under the "austere" and "distant" interpretations!
    Last edited by Haunani; 25th April 2009 at 02:02 AM.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I perceive YSL NU as an austere, distant and cold incense fragrance. I have a sample from darkdreams (thank you again!) but I don't know if it's edt or edp. Edt I assume. Darkdreams, if I'm wrong, let me know.
    Last edited by anais; 25th April 2009 at 02:15 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  5. #35

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    SenZuality brings up a very important point. As one who has certainly smelled a number of scents and feel comfortable calling a few of those masterpieces, I do not completely feel comfortable in calling some of the fragrances mentioned in this thread masterpieces or not. In all honesty, I am not familiar with all of them nor do I feel qualified to make a definitive statement on those that I have not worn fully. That said, yes this is a thread about masterpieces.

    The reason I started this thread in the first place was to see how people would perceive these terms when they are applied to women's fragrances. As I said in the beginning post, women's scents, especially those considered classics tend to be warmer in nature. This is neither a good thing nor a bad thing. For example, Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Chanel No 5- I think that most of us would call these all masterpieces. But none of them are austere or cold to me. They may have elements found in fragrances that come across as cold, but the overall air is warm and rich. So as I read the men's thread, I was pondering what are examples of cold masterpieces and what makes them cold?

    Certainly you can have a cold fragrance without it being a masterpiece. For example, today I wore Malle's Angeliques Sous La Pluie. With all the juniper (I figured if I got pulled over I'd be taking a breathalyzer test), I would call it a cold fragrance. However, it is marketed a a unisex fragrance and I don't think it is a masterpiece. Interesting, yes. But, I don't think it is a totally smooth ride and the notes don't ebb and flow like Chanel no. 19 for example.

    To me, one of the best things about Basenotes is that people know more than I do about different fragrances. I am interested in seeing what people see as masterpieces and specifically, what constitutes a cold, austere masterpiece. Actually, the question isn't just what is a cold masterpiece marketed for women but also what notes make it cold or austere (which actually takes the men's thread in a slightly different direction). It is interesting to think about it in both a pure olfactory point of view, but also we could mull it in a sort of sociological way as well. Why are so many of our "masterpieces" warm? But that might be left for a different thread all together!

    Thank you all for participating in this thread. I think it is an interesting discussion and I hope to hear more people's thoughts.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by senZuality View Post
    I perceive YSL NU as an austere, distant and cold incense fragrance. I have a sample from darkdreams (thank you again!) but I don't know if it's edt or edp. Edt I assume. Darkdreams, if I'm wrong, let me know.
    That would be EDP. I think EDT is quite different.
    I agree with NU being distant but I don't find it that cold. It just crossed my mind that the color of the perfume might influence my perception. And since my first NU was a decant, I know it has a warm amber color!
    But...it definitely is a masterpiece, IMO. Humble opinion, of course!
    Perhaps it is not that WE are that different, but our definitions of "cold"?

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Interesting thoughts, goldie and very interesting discussion you're starting.
    First of all, I / we cannot ignore the fact that we perceive the scents different and I respect that. And allow me to add a little detail in your interesting analysis;
    "It is interesting to think about it in both a pure olfactory point of view [objective absolute], but also we could mull it in a sort of sociological way as well [objective-relative] and individual [subjective-relative] point of view."
    Because, and I give just a small example, not all masterpieces are warm. L'Heure Bleue is considered a masterpiece (not by me, I'm just a humble admirer) and for you it might be warm. If I percieve it as being cold, am I wrong? Same with Knize Ten. A masterpiece, yes, but it is cold or warm? It is nothing wrong with how we perceive the scents, because the truth is subjective when we discuss fragrances. We are individuals and we have different opinions based on our temperament, character, background (different cultures and/or societies), prejudgement, body chemistry, memories and we associate different scents with our emotions. Even the critics "truth" it's not an objective one (absolute norm), but a subjective one (a relative norm).
    Last edited by anais; 25th April 2009 at 03:41 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  8. #38
    anais's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Thank you, darkdreams, for clarification.

    Perhaps it is not that WE are that different, but our definitions of "cold"?
    >>> pertinent idea here.
    Last edited by anais; 25th April 2009 at 03:57 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  9. #39

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    senZuality, I agree with you in many ways. Perception is a very important component in both defining masterpiece as well as defining cold. L'Heure Bleue is a masterpiece and I, too, would call it cold. Someone with a different association might see it differently because, as you said, truth is subjective when we discuss fragrances. I find it interesting and educational to see which fragrances people choose to put into this category.

    People more experienced than I would probably be able to rattle off ten notes that are most often found in "cold" fragrances. As I look through the directory at some of the scents we have come up with and think of my own experiences, certain notes appear frequently in fragrances that come off as cold. Those notes include iris, bergamot, muguet, galbanum, and what I perceive as mineral but what is often described as garden dirt or earth. Of course these notes can also appear in warm scents as well- it is obviously all in the mix. For example, Angel (which undoubtably many would argue a masterpiece although I just don't see it unless we are talking a marketing masterpiece) has bergamot listed as a note.

  10. #40
    anais's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Or Shalimar. It has bergamot in the opening but to me the perfume is very warm, sensual.
    If I'm thinking at notes specifically, I would consider iris, eucalyptus, cedar, lavander, violet, rosmary, mint, cucumber as cold notes. They are some fragrances that are dry (dry = the synonime of auster), but not cold, if that makes sense. I cannot find another example now: Dune by Dior. I see it dry but not cold, distant. I can feel the warm sand in my mouth
    Last edited by anais; 25th April 2009 at 04:51 AM.
    ~ Anais ~

  11. #41
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Okay, I think Patou is the coldmeister and besides 1000,

    Amazone
    Caleche

    Also Private Collection

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I feel cold when I wear Mitsouko EDP. I think it is not necessarily austere, but on a cold day, it makes me feel even colder.
    Last edited by Asha; 25th April 2009 at 02:33 PM.

  13. #43
    lovethescents's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    What an interesting thread. I agree with so many:

    The Unicorn Spell
    Apres l'Ondee
    4711
    EL Private Collection
    Eau de Cartier....

    Seems like there's a theme here....
    Comme l'amour, le parfum doit captiver la femme dès le premier contact---André Fraysse

  14. #44

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    For me:

    Ivoire
    Metal
    (The 1980s version of) Quartz
    -- are all cold masterpieces.

  15. #45
    arwen_elf's Avatar
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by Leesee View Post
    For me:

    Ivoire
    Metal
    (The 1980s version of) Quartz
    -- are all cold masterpieces.
    Yes!!! How could I forget Metal???
    One of my favorites, and very very cold.
    Evenstar

  16. #46

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    I think several others mentioned Metal, too. It is one cold little beauty.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Very much agree with Eau de Cartier. Not sure it is a masterpiece, but definitely a chilly scent and pretty darn stark as well.

  18. #48

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by VM I hate civet View Post
    For literally cold, ie they feel chilly on my skin(!), I would say La Pausa and Iris Silver Mist.

    For chilly as in austere, would agree with No 19 and Cristalle and Apres L'Ondee. I also find 31 Rue Cambon a bit austere, maybe also Love in Black, EL Private Collection (because of the reseda note) and Amouage Jubilation 25 (that would be "dirty austere", indeed!)

    Femme, Cabochard, Dioressence, Knize Ten, Bandit, Serge Noir, Borneo 1834 - all those "difficult" - and to my nose somewhat strange - scents I would also consider cold. Well, not cuddly and approachable, certainly.
    Cripes. The only ones I DON'T wear from the above list are Iris Silver Mist, Apres L'Ondee, Serge Noir and Borneo 1834.

    Does this mean I am 'cold'?
    Does this mean I am a 'masterpiece'?
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  19. #49

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Am also intrigued by the repeated mentioning of Ivoire, of which I am a fan. To me, could never be 'cold', as it falls within my category of 'golden' scents, along with the aldehydic great that is No, 5 (especially the EDP).

    Aquatic and ozonic scents seem 'cold' to me, though I cannot summon a 'masterpiece' from these categories to mind.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  20. #50

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by annachristine View Post
    Very much agree with Eau de Cartier. Not sure it is a masterpiece, but definitely a chilly scent and pretty darn stark as well.
    I think Eau de Cartier is a masterpiece. I find that it is refreshing and on the cool side, but the florals and woods add elements that, to me, make it seem neither stark/cold nor warm.

    Quote Originally Posted by soirdelune View Post
    Am also intrigued by the repeated mentioning of Ivoire, of which I am a fan. To me, could never be 'cold', as it falls within my category of 'golden' scents, along with the aldehydic great that is No, 5 (especially the EDP).
    It's funny -- I can't seem to wear No. 5, but I love Ivoire, even if it does have aldehydes. Ivoire is not literally cold to me, but it is stark and formal to my nose. That kind of "cold".
    Last edited by Haunani; 2nd May 2009 at 02:14 AM.

  21. #51

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    That's what I meant about IVOIRE too. It's a bit aloof and impersonal,
    and yet I really rate it. It's cool and mossy and wonderful.

  22. #52

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by Haunani View Post
    I think Eau de Cartier is a masterpiece. I find that it is refreshing and on the cool side, but the florals and woods add elements that, to me, make it seem neither stark/cold nor warm.
    Aha, I think this is due to another factor - how the scent smells on each of our skin! You remind me that Eau de Cartier smells the way you describe it on a dear friend of mine. On her, I can smell all kinds of warm, complex notes with the florals that you mention. On my own skin, I get pure chilled gin, from beginning to almost the very end. It simply does not react to me the way it does to others.

    ...luckily, I really like the smell of gin.

  23. #53

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by kewart View Post
    That's what I meant about IVOIRE too. It's a bit aloof and impersonal,
    and yet I really rate it. It's cool and mossy and wonderful.
    It really IS wonderful!

    Quote Originally Posted by annachristine View Post
    Aha, I think this is due to another factor - how the scent smells on each of our skin! You remind me that Eau de Cartier smells the way you describe it on a dear friend of mine. On her, I can smell all kinds of warm, complex notes with the florals that you mention. On my own skin, I get pure chilled gin, from beginning to almost the very end. It simply does not react to me the way it does to others.

    ...luckily, I really like the smell of gin.
    That's fascinating. I'm almost jealous, as I too really like the smell of gin.
    Last edited by Haunani; 2nd May 2009 at 04:52 PM.

  24. #54
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    As an aside, when I bartended I used to love to make martinis because I like the smell of gin. (in the glass, not seeping out of someone's pours or on their breath, thanks.) I don't drink, myself, but I can get behind the smell of a good gin.

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    To me, Diorella creates a distinctly 'cool' aura.
    Maybe I'm alone in perceiving it this way, but I can't help it. Florals never do it to me. And it's a masterpiece, oh yes.

  26. #56

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Gotta add that I find Rive Gauche a 'cold masterpiece'.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  27. #57

    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    Quote Originally Posted by debbborra View Post
    As an aside, when I bartended I used to love to make martinis because I like the smell of gin. (in the glass, not seeping out of someone's pours or on their breath, thanks.) I don't drink, myself, but I can get behind the smell of a good gin.
    You should really try Malle's Angeliques Sous La Pluie. You'll love the juniper.
    Last edited by goldie; 4th May 2009 at 05:21 PM. Reason: spelling

  28. #58

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    Default Re: Women's Coldest Masterpiece

    cold weather: Bulgari Black

    cold heart: Patou Cocktail

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