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  1. #1

    Default Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    All hail XerJoff!

    I know that moon_fish is another enthusiast of this high-end Italian perfume line, but are there any others whom have had the pleasure of exploring this range? As far as impeccably-crafted and presented perfumes go, XerJoff are industry leader IMO.

    Here's a bit of background on the three XerJoff XJ Collections for those that are interested in learning a bit more (by the way, Im not affiliated, just enthusiastic):

    XerJoff 17 / 17

    Elle: A delicious female oriental (raspberry macaroon,rose, jasmine,patchouli, leather, coumarin).
    Homme: A debonair leather, (comprising leather, rose and iris). Read my blog here on this one.
    Irisss: Iris Indulgence (iris butter, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, violet, vetiver and cedar).
    XXY: Fruity floral sprinkled with spices (bergamot, peach, ylang, jasmine, iris, black pepper, chocolately patchouli, vanilla and vetiver).

    These four perfumes are presented in either individually-numbered hand-blown Murano glass bottles, or flacons fashioned from solid quartz stones.

    XerJoff Shooting Stars

    Shingl: An aromatic floral (aniseed, vetiver, patchouli, iris, amber and vanilla)
    Esquel: Floral fougere (lemon, lavender, myrtle, orange blossom, rose pepper)
    Dhajala: Green semi-oriental (galbanum, jasmine, rose pepper)
    Modoc: Spicy Chypre (aristocratic chypre, carnation, soft leather)
    Uden: Marine fougere (sea-spray accord, bergamot, cumarin)
    Dhofar: Oriental chypre (citrus, resins, carnation, patchouli, sandalwood)
    Kobe: A bright floral (orange, bergamot, petitgrain, neroli, oud, palisander wood)
    Ibitira: Woody powdery flowers (lemon, petitgrain, neroli, rose, iris, cedar, vetiver, vanilla, musk)

    This line is inspired by a meteorite shower that fell to earth in Eastern Siberia, Russia in 1947. Each scent has been created to reflect the special nature of this event, and a fragment of meterorite has been placed in each laquered wooden box together with the perfume bottle.

    Casamorati 1888 (XerJoff Vintage)

    Mefisto: An Italian oriental (grapefruit, lemon, bergamot, lavender, rose, florentine iris, cedar, sandalwood, musk and amber).
    Fiore d'Ulivo: A fresh floral (citrus, lotus flower, olive blooms, jasmine, magnolia, amber and musk).

    This is an Heirloom collection of scents that recreates the history of a glorious fragrance house founded in Italy between the 18th and 19th centuries.


    I'm slowly working my way through some of these, and am taken by the "maximalist" approach to some in the collection, and the delicate sensitivity at play with others.
    I am personally a big fan of Homme, Irisss and Fiore d'Ulivo!
    I'd love to hear anyone else's experiences with these.
    Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 8th April 2010 at 10:47 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    This seems like a very interesting house! Its unfortunate that after checking with their official site they have no US retailers.

    Do you know how much these bottles cost?

    Also, thank you very much Dimitri for the excellent review!
    Last edited by urgetopurge; 30th April 2009 at 08:04 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    those bottles look exquisite and the reviews, mouthwatering!

    Dimi - could you compare their style with any other house that most would be familiar here?

    btw, is it pronounced "jerk-off?"

  4. #4

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I'm interested in several of their fragrances. A while back I emailed them to see if they did any samples, but I have never heard anything back. I wasn't really expecting a response, because what I've heard of their prices seems to indicate that they might be in the "if you need to sample, you can't afford it" price range. I've found that quite a lot of houses are willing to send out samples directly, so I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.

    I don't know what they actually cost, though.

  5. #5
    bluesoul's Avatar
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    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    btw, is it pronounced "jerk-off?"
    Kind of what I was wondering, I thought this was a gag until I read deeper. Sounds like one of the Bob & Tom fragrances.
    Twitter - @DanielTharp
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    Always be content with what you have, never be content with what you are.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I believe the 'X' is pronounced like a 'Z' instead therefore Xerjoff is like 'Zirh- Joff' with an emphasis on the 'J'. They are truly magnificent creations and for the money, I would prefer this line to good old Mr Christian. Have tried some of the fragrances and the cheaper bottles come in Murano glass bottles of 50 ml EDP (I think?) with an elaborate presentation box are close to 400 pounds a bottle at Harrods. I was soooooooooo close to getting a bottle of either Modoc or Dhofar (can't remember which one now) but decided not to in the end - may not be able to hold off if I am confronted with a bottle next time - they are indeed impressive both in fragrance and presentation, truly opulent and they are not afraid to flaunt it. They do make bottles carved out of crystal and quartz - don't know how much perfume they contain (not very much, I believe) - but unless there is an enormous surplus of funds, it is pure fantasy obtaining these particular bottles - just let your imagination run wild with the price .....

  7. #7

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    XerJoff's target market at the moment is exclusive boutiques in Russia, Italy, France and the UK (Roja Dove carries this line), and definitely represents the absolute high end of the market.

    I dont have exact prices, but depending on the collections, they vary greatly... here are some ballparks supplied to me by a distributor. I hope you're sitting down.

    The Shooting Stars collection are priced around €400 (50ml).

    As for the Murano/Quartz collections: anywhere from around 600€ for the 15ml Muranos, up to about €2000 for the 45ml, and between 7000€ and 12000€ for a 12ml bottle fashioned from quartz. These are also presented on a hand-carved ebony base, and decorated in gold and rubies.

    I don't have prices on the Casamorati line yet, as they are due to be launched soon.

    Jaw-dropping prices to match their stunning presentations, no?

    The scents themselves though, are on an even par with the presentations... quality materials and wonderful compositions. There are no specific scents on the market that I can liken those I've tried to.

    As far as samples are concerned, I think they have press samples only which are in a very generous 10ml plain bottles (see pic). As far as I know samples have not been produced for the open market.

    Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 1st May 2009 at 08:27 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post
    The Shooting Stars collection are priced around €400 (50ml).
    Murano/Quartz collections: anywhere from around 600€ for the 15ml Muranos, up to about €2000 for the 45ml, and between 7000€ and 12000€ for a 12ml
    moderators...arrest this man

  9. #9

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    moderators...arrest this man


    Hey, I'm just the messenger!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I had the pleasure of sampling some of the Shooting stars line in Roja Dove's Harrods perfumery (I think the sales assistant pronounced it Zehr-hoff) but am struggling to remember which of Shingl, Dhajala and Dhofar I admired most. Sounds like an excuse for another visit

  11. #11

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Dimitri View Post
    The scents themselves though, are on an even par with the presentations... quality materials and wonderful compositions. There are no specific scents on the market that I can liken those I've tried to.

    As far as samples are concerned, I think they have press samples only which are in a very generous 10ml plain bottles (see pic). As far as I know samples have not been produced for the open market.
    I was wondering about how the scents themselves fared and whether or not they live up to the extremely luxurious packaging. It's good to know they can keep up.

    I was drooling over your samples the first time you posted about them, and I guess I'm not surprised if they only do press samples. Maybe one day I'll get to try them in person somewhere.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Oh dear - I can't speak about the fragrances themselves, though they sound lovely, but I think visual tastes must be really different in the east these days - this is just a matter of personal taste I guess as it is directly contrary to your own assesment, but to my eyes that is *the* worst graphic design and packaging design I have ever seen!

    The bottles with the greek sculpture relief heads look like fast food soft drink containers for happy meals with the garish colours, sippy-cup hats, and badly designed crests (I like the sculpture heads though) while the Xerjoff logo itself looks like an ill-concieved teenage heavy metal band logo. Even the singular X has an unappealing shape... I love quartz and crystal bottles, but it seems almost like a joke to waste those materials on these McDonalds designs! Maybe that is part of the conspicuous consumption appeal or something? The choice of backgrounds and surfaces and photography is also in extremely poor taste in my opinion! It all reeks of cheapness and lack of aesthetic sensibility.

    Amouage did a great job with their wastefully expensive bottles - those make you feel like you're shelling out big money for something well crafted and refined, something hand made with centuries of tradition behind it - these bottle just scream garish conspicuous consumption and faddishness to me.
    Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 1st May 2009 at 02:17 PM.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose


    Currently wearing: Yatagan by Caron

  13. #13

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I forgot to add some links to various XerJoff sites - here you get a better idea of the craftsmanship behind the bottles etc.

    http://www.nicemotion.it/nicemotion/popup/Xerjioff/

    http://www.xerjoff.com/

  14. #14

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Hi, Dimitri

    I`m glad that you made that Official thread of Xerjoff.
    I don`t know where did you get those `official` notes, as I`ve got different pyramides in my computer.
    If someone is interested, I`ll put my notes here.

    As for the Murano and quartz bottles - the flacons carries about 25-35 ml. Sizes differs as they are hand-crafted. Buyer will get not only empty luxurious bottle, but also 50 ml of perfume in frosted glass refill. That`s the info I got in Moscow (Douglas-Rivoli is their Russian partner). And Xerjoff is going pretty good in Moscow - as presents to partners, to lovers and spouses, etc. New Year and Mother-Father days gives more profits, than a whole year.

    2Gaivs I Caesar:
    Tastes are different - some prefer Amouage new design, some prefer Amouage old design, and some will choose just plain Amouage tester.
    I would never pay for the luxurious bottle - I prefer juice and like to wear the perfume.
    BUT - if someone would present quartz bottle to me, I could not resist. I like the style, I like the design and the idea. I do not mind golden X, I like quartz and craftsmanship. It is really hard to make those flacons, and I appreciate that work.

    As for the juices.
    They are very different to praise every perfume by Xerjoff.
    I like Homme 17-17 very much - it is true leather scent, full of birchtar and it has flowers and balms to enrich it. I do not like Femme 17-17 - oriental flowers and berries are not my cup of tea. And XXY too.
    Irisss is marvellous. I got some similarities of Irisss with some iris limited edition by Christian Dior - Passage 8, if I remember correctly, from John Galliano trio (Collection Particuliere) launched 2007 year. Orris, carrot seeds absolute, etc.

    From Meteorites collection I do like KOBE. But I`d never call it a bright flowery. It is very high-quality citrus cologne that goes into smoky eastern temple (my wife called it jossticks - well, patchouly, sandalwood, maybe vetiver and guaiac wood - but I never detected oud here!). And it stays very fresh all the time - and reminds me something that was with me all my life, some friend or landscape.

    I do like Modoc - it`s vetiver plus orris, giving impression of paper. Maybe carnation too (but this note usually gives me feeling of soap and soar powder instead of paper).
    Dhofar is close to fir-needled Yatagan, while having some spicy oriental sillage.

    Casamorati line would impress everyone who like modern combination `rose+tea` and Silver Mountain Water by Creed.

    As far as I know - some perfumes were made by Jacques Flori (Robertet) who made some great Etro perfumes. LT and TS wrote some respects to his work.

    And some more info from PR - Robertet used some exclusive co-distillation products (Tonkiphora and Miroswellia balsams, for instance) and some fractionated natural oils (Lavender, Ylang, Patchouly, Vetiver) for those perfumes.

    Also - and nobody will approve or disprove it - the perfume concentrate itself priced from 5 to 10 times more than usual perfumes. (euro per kg). So juice IS TRULY PRECIOUS (especially compared with usual luxury brands of LVMH).
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    I don`t know where did you get those `official` notes, as I`ve got different pyramides in my computer.
    If someone is interested, I`ll put my notes here.
    Hi moon_fish, thanks for your comments - its nice to have another BNer who is familiar with this line, and can attest to their quality.

    The official notes I have are from the brand new printed XerJoff brochure supplied to me by their French Distributor. They are taken from the individual printed descriptions of the scents - not from a pyramid breakdown. If you have other material listing other notes, I would be interested to see them too, so yes, please post what you have.

    Your insights on the Casamorati line are sound... Mefisto has a Silver Mountain Water vibe to it, but Fiore d'Ulivo is more a soapy floral scent with tons of old-world charm.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I looked at the website and the bottles and the graphic design in general is a whole lot better than on the ads above, at least in my opinion. They bottles look alot more "real" and have a serious presence too them. Just goes to show that you can have a good looking product and make it look bad with crappy graphic designers!
    CAESAR SEEKS:
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    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose


    Currently wearing: Yatagan by Caron

  17. #17

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    OK, Dimitri,
    Seems to me, they have different PR products - or maybe they are to change their PR materials.
    My documents are old PR.

    XJ 17-17 Homme
    Top: Bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, grapefruit, caraway, tarragon, ginger.
    Heart: Lavender, rose, Lisylang (Robertet fraction of Ylang oil), orris, clove.
    Base: Atlas cedar, amber, australian sandalwood, vanilla, Vetiver Coeur (Robertet fraction of vetiver oil), birchtar, musk.

    XJ 17-17 Elle
    Top - bergamot, lily of the valley, neroli, galbanum
    Heart - jasmine, rose, orris, Atlas cedar, Patchouly Coeur (Robertet fraction of patchouli oil), Lysilang (Robertet fraction of Ylang oil), leather accord, woody accord
    Base - coumarin, amber, Tonkiphora Baume (Robertet codistillation product of opopanax and benjoin), musk

    XJ 17-17 XXY
    Top - Bergamot, grapefruit, peach
    Heart - Ylang-ylang, jasmine, orris, black pepper
    Base - Patchouli, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, labdanum, vanilla, musk

    XJ Irisss
    Top - Carrot seeds absolute, bergamot, carnation
    Heart - orris, rose, jasmine, ylang, violet leaves
    Base - vetiver, Virginian cedar, benjoin, musk, frankincense.

    (Sorry for the list not full - I`m slow interpreter & typer. I`m going to find out flash-card with the PR and copy-paste it tomorrow)
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  18. #18

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Wow - those seem to be much more elaborate than these that I have here, and I dare say probably accurate breakdowns too. I wonder what combination of accords in the pyramid you've listed creates the distinct leather note in 17/17 Homme?

    If you'd like, I can scan the new brochure and make a pdf of it, just so you can see its lovely presentation and descriptions. Just shout and I will do it and email it across to you.

    Thanks for taking the time to list them above!

  19. #19

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Dimitri,
    Seems to me, the one and only true leather note listed in XJ 17-17 Homme is Birch Tar (somewhere from Scandinavia). They listed it in basenotes, but it sings all the time through the perfume development.
    It is supported by Ylang and Florentian Orris in manner of Cuir de Russie (Chanel).
    But I feel like XJ Homme is Knize Ten, a fleur de peau Keikomecheri or Etro Gomma orchestrated without any restrictions in budget. So it`s simphony instead of pop-song (sorry, K10 lovers, it is just my opinion!).

    I have no need in pdf-brochure, I prefer smells, letters and numbers to pictures; but maybe it could be useful for other BNoters here?
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    That's a very good point, perhaps I will scan it and provide downloads from my blog.
    Cheers again!

  21. #21

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    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Some of this line now being stocked by First In Fragrance and looks like they have samples available although, as expected, rather expensive.

    http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/index.php?cPath=23_841

  22. #22

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    SHOOTING STARS

    MALE FRAGRANCES
    DHOFAR
    Head note: fresh / aromatic
    Bergamot, grapefruit, Lemon, Litsea Cubeba, Sage, basil, coriander

    Heart note: floreal / spicy
    Lavender, pine needles, laurel leaves, galbanum, jatamansi, rose absolute, orange flowers

    Base note: woody / amber
    Carnation, Myroswelia balsam, Australia sandalwood, patchouly heart, vanilla, amber, ciste labdano

    MODOC
    Head note: fresh / aromatic
    Lemon, orange, artemisia

    Heart note: floreal
    Iris, orange flowers

    Base note: woody / musky
    Vetyver, vanilla absolute, Amber, Musks

    UDEN
    Head note: citrus
    Lemon, grapefruit

    Heart note: fruit / floreal
    Rhum absolute, Rose, sandalwood, Guaiac wood

    Base note: amber
    Vanilla absolute, coffee absolute, musks

    SPECIAL EDITION
    KOBE
    Head note: fresh / aromatic
    Bergamot, Florida's orange, spanish ciste labdano

    Heart note: floreal
    Neroli, Paraguay's Petitgrain, Orange flowers

    Base note: woody/ vanilla
    Oud wood, palisanderwood (Lacanda brasillana), Siamese Benzoin, Tonka, Amber,
    Styrax Absolute, Musks

    FEMALE FRAGRANCES

    DHAJALA
    Head note: fresh / floreal
    Bergamot, Orange, Galbanum, orange flowers

    Heart note: floreal / spicy
    Rose, Jasmine, Rose Pepper

    Base note: amber
    Amber, Tonkiphora balsam, Myroswelia balsam, Vanilla, Musks

    SHINGL
    Head note: fresh / aromatic
    Bergamot, basil, anise, Davana

    Heart note: Iris / woody
    Rhum absolute, Iris, Patchouly, Vetyver

    Base note: amber
    Vanilla, Amber, Musks

    ESQUEL
    Head note: fresh / aromatic
    Lemon, Lavender, Bergamot, Mirtle

    Heart note: floreal / spicy
    Orange flowers, Petitgrain citronnier, Rose absolute, Jatamansi, Lysilang, Iris, Rose pepper, Ceylon Cinnamon

    Base note: woody
    Patchouly heart, Vetyver heart, Tonka, Vanilla, Opoponax, Musks

    SPECIAL EDITION
    IBITIRA

    Head note: fresh
    Italian Lemon, Green Violette, Orange flowers

    Heart note: floreal
    Damascene Rose, White Flowers, Florence Iris, Neroli

    Base note: woody/ musk
    Cedarwood, Haiti Vetiver, Vanilla Bourbon, Musks
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  23. #23
    fly777's Avatar
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    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    But I feel like XJ Homme is Knize Ten, a fleur de peau Keikomecheri or Etro Gomma orchestrated without any restrictions in budget. So it`s simphony instead of pop-song (sorry, K10 lovers, it is just my opinion!)
    I second your comparison with Knize Ten, moon_fish. XJ Homme ist beautyfully balanced, with a subtle, nevertheless powerfull leather presence. Like a new, modern interpretation of Knize Ten?

    So the question will be: to appreciate the simphony with a adequate BOSE hi-fi equipment or to listen to the pop song with a MP3 Player. Or sometimes this, sometimes that...

  24. #24

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    I've been wanting to make a post ever since this thread was posted. Finally came around to it LoL!
    I bought two Xerjoff's from Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie last summer. The presentation boxes with the perfume were 400 pounds and had an actual piece of meteorite. Their refills (50ml EDP) were 95 pounds. I got the refills The first one I bought was Uden. First of all it's very masculine, bought it immediately grabbed my attention. It has bitter topnotes, probably from the grapefruit, and a lemony-vanilla drydown. Come to think of it now, it has an incredible likeness to Habit Rouge Sport. But I found myself not liking it after a couple of months and I find it now very generic. So I gave it to my dad (his favorite frag is Allure Homme Sport) so he like it without a doubt
    The other perfume I bought was Dhajala. I'm sniffing it now, and it shares a strong resemblance to Uden, but with a feminine twist. The bitter topnotes are still there but it changes somewhere during the midnotes to a fresh oriental. I don't like it as much as though.
    These two Xerjoff's are decent, but they're nothing special. In fact, they bordering on generic. Unfortunately, that ended my interest in the brand

    EDIT: Uden is a near dead-ringer for Sculpture (one of my most hated frags!)
    Last edited by scent; 26th May 2009 at 10:46 PM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Meanwhile, in London, Clive Christian is revisiting his tag line of "The World's Most Expensive Perfume."

    Though I'm sure if he put his juices in gold and diamond-encrusted cases, he can regain the title!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    2scent
    About Dhajala. I found it as strong feminine perfume, exactly like you described: fresh oriental.
    I`d say - vibrating fresh but nevertheless sweet ambery oriental - while it does not smells like classic, it surely cannot be just a humble wallflower trying to disappear from the sight.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  27. #27

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    So how is the packaging in regards to these scents... specifically the meteorite collection. Also, refills were mentioned above. Are these bottles refillable and are the refills in face 95 pounds. I am going to paris and than london next week and will finally get a chance to go to Harrods and the roja dove boutique and try these. I cant wait.
    Last edited by cairomerta; 28th May 2009 at 02:59 PM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Cairomerta, in Roja Dove, try and talk with Clement - he is the European Xerjoff rep, and truly knows his stuff.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    is the strength of the scents EDT, EDP or Parfum?
    A

    * * * * * * * *
    Newbie discovering the wonderful world of perfume

    * * * * * * * *

    Looking for; http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=210771
    and
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=214089

  30. #30

    Default Re: Official XerJoff Appreciation Thread

    Mlt, they are all EDP.

    Ausliebezumduft are now stocking some of this line (with the exception of the Casamorati scents), and samples are also available. (Perhaps you might wanna sit down first before clicking on the link).

    http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/index.php?cPath=23_841

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