Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Thread: S o t D - Sunday, 03 May 09
Bertrand Duchaufour's Timbuktu (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois (EDP)
Notes: galbanum, green grass, lemon, tangerine, rose, rosemary, jasmine, iris, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver and birch (from Basenotes articles)
Fleurs de Bois starts very green (as the package suggests) with a burst of bitter galbanum and a stemmy, sappy green plant accord. On skin, the fragrance quickly begins to transition, and the stemmy accord fades to reveal fresh, woody herbs. The galbanum persists, although it is not nearly as strong as in another very green fragrance I love, Chanel No.19. The herbal component is fougere-like with rosemary and perhaps some lavender. I don't really smell much in the way of florals or citrus, although there is a very light powder note which could be iris or oakmoss. I was expecting the herbal accord to last well into the base, but FdB is developing quickly on my skin. The fragrance takes on a vague resinous-balsamic sweetness which I smelled in the base when I tested on paper once before. It is a very welcoming and smooth amber musk, a tad sweet, but not cloying. The bitter green has mostly disappeared at this point, and traces of the rosemary and other woody, herbal mid notes linger. A whisper of vetiver shows itself now--it is faint but lends a slight smokiness. The base is lovely and warm on skin, and for a while during the transition from middle to base, the herbal echoes give a pleasant, cooling contrast.
Overall, this fragrance tends toward the masculine, although the herbal accord is mild in comparison to some men's fougeres I have smelled. The opening and mid development are the real attention-grabbers for me. I have never smelled a galbanum-prominent fragrance in a fougere context, and I quite like the combination. From mid to late development, FdB seems much more like a textbook fougere to me--well done but nothing remarkable. The base is quite fetching, though, and it is commendable that even though this fragrance bears the hallmarks of a traditional fragrance form, it doesn't fall apart at the end with some kind of cheap musk base. What I am really missing in this fragrance is more oakmoss to carry the green impressions from the galbanum and vetiver to the end.
Sisley Eau de Campagne (EDT)
Notes: top notes, bergamot, galbanum, lemon, basil; heart notes, tomato leaves, plum, jasmine, geranium, lily-of-the-valley; base notes, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver, white musk (from OsMoz)
I must start this review with a disclaimer: Eau de Campagne smells very different on my skin than it does on paper. On paper, I smell mostly what other reviewers have smelled--lush green opening of galbanum and other bitter plant stems followed by a lovely lemon-based citrus melange, cradled by a herbal accord. The effect is intoxicating, evocative of all the scents you might experience in a well-tended herb, vegetable and citrus-tree garden. Florals are listed in the notes, but scent-wise, these components collectively play a supporting role to the more prominent green and herbal notes. Later, a soft white soap note comes forth giving a very clean finish to the entire experience.
On skin--what a difference. The galbanum and other green notes begin to fade almost immediately, forcefully pushing the lemon out front. The effect is of a greenish or unripe fruit at first, due to the lingering bitter plant notes. Soon, the lemon becomes as sweet as an edible lemon candy, and is quickly joined by the white soap note. For a while, the combination of lemon and soap give the impression of fine bath or shaving products. Unfortunately, as the lemon fades into a kind of sulfuric funk that most citruses suffer from, the soapy note becomes sour and harsh. It has been quite a ride in under one hour.
L'heure Bleue ....day
Petit Guerlain.....bed time
Once again wearing my newer acquisition, the fresh and lasting Bergamotto Marino by Gianfranco Ferre.
Du Maurier, Vomit and Grey Goose
jokes aside, something tame to soothe my headache: Avon Wild Country. Sweet and powdery. Very soothing
SOTE is Montale - Patchouli Leaves
Top Note: Aldehyde Complex, Bergamot oil, Galbanum, Gardenia, Peach
Middle Note: Carnation, Jasmin, Jonquil, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose
Base Note: Amber, Castoreum, Myrrh, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver
This review is for the 2007 reissue. Unfortunately, the notes listed for this on the tester (and in other sources) are just a skeleton of the 1970 version. Whether any of the other original ingredients are present is very hard to say, but I'm waeing the older version today; however, it is just possible that Givenchy had some reason to give just the bare bones of the notes, and that not all of the original pyramid was eliminated. I certainly hope that is the case. In any event, the 2007 juice is still beautiful, and while it doesn't have a great deal of longevity, it is quite lovely while it lasts. It preserves the chypre character, right down to the oakmoss, which is commendable, because it is now restricted under EU rules. This version is available only in EdT. Whatever the answer to the question of reformulation, this is a very good scent — a definite "thumbs up."
Yr good bud,
"Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"
Fiat justitia ruat cælum.
Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.
— Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus
Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.
SOTD: My first wearing of my almost-blind-bought full bottle of Comme des Garçons
Series Six: Synthetic Soda.
The opening blast was about 75% lemon ginger soda and about 25% smoky tire.
The tire accord tamed into the smell of a fresh bag full of balloons and eventually (thank goodness) went away.
The ginger/lemon lost its effervescence after about an hour and has settled into something akin to the smell of Febreeze.
Nice, but not great. L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme does the sparkly soda thing better.
Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
Creeds Green Irish Tweed
I missed SnS Saturday and I just couldn't bring myself to wear something fruity today. I wanted to wear something that has been difficult for me to get a handle on and I wanted to force myself to try and figure it out and write it down, here goes:
Issey Miyake Le Feu D'Issey
When a scent is described as a "colossal failure" and "ahead of its time" it does make one wonder which was right. What one generally finds is reality tends to fall inside the extremes presented by those quotes. So it is with Jacques Cavallier's 1998 creation Le Feu D'Issey. One thing I can say with confidence is that this is not an easy scent to categorize. I've worn it five times and it seems different on me each time. My wife has worn it twice and it has been different on her, too. I think a scent should have some consistency from wear to wear but Le Feu D'Issey sure seems to confound that postulate. At the top I get bergamot and the smell of coconut. This is not the rich smell of grated coconut or of coconut milk. This is the raw smell of the water contained in the nut in the center of the coconut. It contains some of the richness of the meat of the cocnut but it also has a pungency to it. I think it is this accord that cause some people to refer to the opening of Feu D'Issey as smelling "spoiled". For me this is a pungency that I have not encountered before in a scent and on me it wears quite nicely. From wear to wear the strength of this beginning seemed to be slightly stronger or barely there. As this progresses into the heart, jasmine and the controversial milk note come into play. I've only run across one other scent with a milk note, Lostmarc'h L'ann A'el and the milk note here is used as contrast to the jasmine and it creates a richness that brings out the sweet of the jasmine without it being overwhelming. Add to this a light use of rosewood and the heart is a lightly sweet combination of sweet floral and sweet wood. This aspect was consistent from wear to wear. The base went back to being confoundingly difficult to nail down as it seemed like I encountered a different wood every time I wore it. One wear it felt like a creamy sandalwod, another time it was the clean lines of cedar, still another time it seemed like gaiac. Partnered with it was vanilla which was a near perfect transition from the milk accord in the heart. So where do I come down on this one? Surely not "colossal failure". This is envelope pushing perfumery but a fragrance that has an inability to settle down on a person's skin and offer a similar experience from wear to wear is never going to be something the average colognoisseur will seek out. "Ahead of its time", I'm not sure I'm there either this feels kindred to many of the androgynous unisex scents being produced in the late 90's into the new millennium. I don't think if Issey Miyake went back into production this would all of a sudden find an audience and become a huge seller. If I had to categorize this in two words they would be- noble experiment.
Have a Sugary Sunday everyone.
More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/
This time out, I'm finding that the resinous/herbal green drydown in this forest is a civilized match for warm (mid-80s F) weather.
Azzaro Pure Vetiver
Last edited by Zerby; 3rd May 2009 at 09:40 PM.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
Armani Mania tonight
Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell
Mugler Cologne (Thierry Mugler)
Top 5 for Late Summer:
1) Straight to Heaven - By Kilian
2) Aventus - Creed
3) Flower of Immortality - By Kilian
4) L'Humaniste - Frapin
5) Millesime Imperial - Creed
My mission statement: "I am not afraid to keep on living - I am not afraid to walk this world alone."
Gaiac 10 by Le Labo
Aqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta
I spent the day at the park with my husband, out enjoying the beautiful sunny S. Florida weather. Took a nature walk through the forest, sat by the intracoastal and worked on my tan...all with the smell of:
Virgin Island Water by Creed
This evening, instead of reaching for my normal Serge Noire, Sunday evening standard SOTE, I chose something a little off the wall. I had the sample sitting on my office desk, for Saturday's Sniff n Speak but never got around to wearing it, and coming home with a suntan and feeling like I needed a gourmand to make me feel all snuggly and comfortable it was...
Luctor et Emergo (the parfum) by People of the Labyrinths (from a sample - thanks nsamadi)
Wow, the parfum is so much deeper and dazzling than the EdT. Still a little too talc-like for my tastes, but it does that floral/bread note so wonderfully (like L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain...with the sadness turned down a notch).
Last edited by mikeperez23; 4th May 2009 at 02:34 AM.
"One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"
-- Jack Kerouac
Trying Idole, Black Cashmere and Chaos today (from samples)
Acqua di Parma Colonia
Dior Poison ( yes, I just can't stop raiding those testers till mine gets here! )
✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧UK Sale Thread: Niche & Designer bottles for sale UK✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧
Current Top Favorites:
1) DAVIDOFF Silver Shadow Private Blend
2) BOND No.9 New York Oud
3) LUBIN Idole de Lubin (eau de parfum)
4) MONT BLANC Legend Intense
5) CHARRIOL Eau de Parfum pour Homme
6) YSL L'Homme Parfum Intense
7) DIOR La Collection Privée - Ambre Nuit
8) SCENTSTORY 24 Gold
9) HERMES Voyage d'Hermès Parfum
10) LATTAFA Ameer Al Oudh
✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧ UK Niche, Rare & Designer Complete Decant List UK ✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧✧
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" Human beings are members of a whole,
In creation of one essence and soul.
If one member is afflicted with pain,
Other members uneasy will remain.
If you have no sympathy for human pain,
The name of human you cannot retain."
Saadi (13th Century Persian Poet)
Dior Homme Intense, deo stick, a/s moisturizer
Choose to believe, choose joy.
Scelga di credere, scelga la gioia.
Extreme Polo Sport