Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1

    Default Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I'm very curious about this.

    There are a couple of scents that I just received that have been referred to as, respectively, a "masterpiece" and "very good," Acqua di Parma Colonia and L'eau D'Issey Pour homme. The nose-to-skin impression immediately following application is favorable. These smell great (with apologies to those who don't like them). However, barring any skin vagaries on my part (and Colonia's status as an Eau de Cologne), these scents are olfactorily invisible 1-inch from the skin and 10 minutes from application. Needless to say, sillage also is practically non-existent. This made me wonder whether all the Creeds (never sampled them) and Chanels and Penhaligons (sp?) and all the other putative "masterpieces" out there have exceptional sillage, projection and longevity.

    In other words, does a "masterpiece" not only have to have a nice balanced, refined fragrance, but must it also have superior sillage, projecton and longevity? And if the answer is "yes," then which fragrances out there have all of these characteristics? (i.e., Can Paco Rabbane pour home be considered a masterpiece?)

    Thanks in advance for your input!!!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Well...yes and no. I am a sillage whore, I want to be smelt. I guess it depends from person to person. There are people who prefer perfume with medium to little or no sillage. And there are people like me who want that exquisite trail left behind. All of my "masterpieces" have to have tons of sillage (ex. L'heure Bleue, STH, Rose 31, etc....), but I have one perfume that I cannot classify as a masterpiece simply because of it's sillage: The Party. It's literally one of the best scents I have smelt in a long time, but it's pathetic excuse for sillage is what have held it back into entering into my "masterpieces" list.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I dont think a masterpiece has to have sillage, or longevity. I love the smell of Acqua di Parma and it seems like it is an eau de cologne that is modern yet classic, and yet, it does not last very long. Yet, if I could get a 100ml bottle for $50, it would be in my collection because it would be one of those scents that I would love and would be great for that three or four hour cookout. Yet to wear it to work, it would be gone by lunch and I would have to have a spare bottle or decant at work, and well, Im not up for that. I also only want so many bottles in my collection. However, I would call it a masterpiece.

    Sillage, not all people want that. I am loving some CDG 2 Man I got yesterday. It does not project or last as long as say L'Air du Desert Morocain, but it is satisfying. Maybe not a masterpiece, but, hey, it brought a smile to my face.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I don't care for Paco Rabanne Pour Homme but I do consider it to be a masterpiece. It is in the FiFi Hall of Fame.

    AdP Colonia is one of my favorite fragrances and easily lasts seven to eight hours on my skin. It definitely deserves to be called a masterpiece.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  5. #5

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    See, this is what I was expecting!! The first two responses, scent and finsfan, almost diametrically opposed in terms of what constitutes masterpiece or close-to-masterpiece. Finsfan, if I infer correctly, it does not matter whether anyone "smells" you, or it only matters if that person is in extremely intimate proximity to you.

    Subjectivity!

    Interesting. But see, I'm still somewhat of a fragrance neophyte. There are MANY fragrance experts here on BN. Maybe subjectivity is less....subjective....let's see.

    jd

  6. #6

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Duncan, I prefer longevity and sillage. I feel that I get more bang for the buck. I like to sniff my wrist say 7 hours after applying it, or turning around quickly and somehow the scent wafts off my shirt collar at work. I also like having others tell me that I smell great.

    But for a masterpiece, I dont think I would define it in terms of projection or longevity. Some flowers bloom all summer, some for only a couple of weeks. Why can not a scent be ephemeral and still so well regarded? In the end, I judge the scent on how it smells and how it works on me. Who knows, there could be a scent that lasted but three hours but gave me so much pleasure for those three hours that I would buy it at $150 for an ounce? Who knows!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    TwoRoads:

    It may be that Acqua di Parma Colonia just doesn't last that long on my unique skin type. Perhaps. But, then again, that would support my contention that true masterpieces are ones that have longevity (at least) on most skin types.

    Finsfan, I think I have to agree. Maybe not on the financial aspect, but re wanting to be able to smell my selected scent all...day...long. That's why I mentioned Paco....it's a monster.
    Last edited by Duncan; 10th May 2009 at 02:23 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    people who wear dior homme and other sillage monsters are annoying and want lots of sillage because they think their cologne smells a lot better than it actually does. People who were naturals don't want lots of sillage because they wear something that smells good to them and don't care to annoy other people with it.

    i trust the person who doesn't want a lot of sillage a lot more than the opposite.

  9. #9
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Seattle, WA, The Emerald City
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    [QUOTE=scent;1509139]Well...yes and no. I am a sillage whore, I want to be smelt. QUOTE]

    You and me both buddy, you and me both....

  10. #10

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I find AdP to be one of the longer-lasting colognes. My absolute favourite at the moment is Guerlain's Eau de Cologne Imperiale, and it dies within the hour. Longevity matters for me not a whit. Ten minutes? Fine. As long as they are lovely. No base? Excellent. Projection - well, one must be able to smell it oneself. If one can, it's probable that someone immediately next to one, within one's 'space', will also be able to. Beyond that, I don't really care.

  11. #11
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    77,482

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    For me, a fragrance with excellent sillage, projection, and longevity doesn't necessarily equate to "masterpiece".

  12. #12

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Something is awry here.

    Colonia isn't a long lasting scent on me, but it does have strength for a few hours. While Issey is a very long lasting scent with high sillage output. You are better off having some sprayed on testing paper, and seeing how long they last on that for an objective assessment of their strength.

    That said, back to your question.

    Many scents are highly acclaimed around here, as being masterpieces or in other glowing terms, but have pathetic endurance and sillage on most people. To me, that means they don't do the job I want them for - to smell good both to me and to others, or just to keep me smelling fresh - and I wouldn't rate them highly at all.

    Others here use different criteria - exquisitness of craftmanship or some such - and the notion that scents are a highly personal thing to be experienced mainly for one's personal and sensual pleasure. They necessarily then rate many scents highly, that I would rate very differently.

    Some scents have very good longevity but poor sillage, which is fine by me when one doesn't want to be overly obtrusive for some reason.

    What I really, really hate is being caught out spending good money on dud short-lived scents. It happened to me with Eau Sauvage, and I've been careful ever since. I don't mind buying short-lived scents if they are going cheap (for me, they're handy for wearing to shops, to the beach, or when I know I'll wear somthing else later), but at full price, I want a scent that lasts.
    Regards,
    Renato
    Last edited by Renato; 14th April 2012 at 05:22 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Quote Originally Posted by Renato View Post
    What I really, really hate is being caught out spending good money on dud short-lived scents. It happened to me with Eau Sauvage, and I've been careful ever since. I don't mind buying short-lived scents if they are going cheap (for me, they're handy for wearing to shops, to the beach, or when I know I'll wear somthing else later), but at full price, I want a scent that lasts.
    I think it may be a personal chemistry issue with you and Eau Sauvage. I find it very long lived indeed.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Scents are like music, different genres, different 'instrumentation', etc. What constitutes a masterpiece metal album? Well, surely their Marshalls will be cranked to 11, for one thing. A masterpiece classical work? Hmm, it surely won't be featuring electric guitars, I can tell you that much. It's clearly silly to have one set of criteria that would denote 'masterpiece' when it comes to music, and it's just as silly with fragrance, imo.

    The intention of the fragrance: its intended smell, its broad categorization (eg: chypre, fougere, oriental), any meaning or emotion that it wishes to project, the intended audience, time and place of wear, all of these things (and many more) contribute to a scent's 'genre', and each genre, or specialized categorization of scent, will have different criteria to denote a masterpiece. There are probably a few criteria that would span across all or most of the categories, but they will necessarily be fairly generic.

    I don't think sillage, projection, or longevity span across all categories, or at least not at some single quantifiable 'masterpiece' level.

  15. #15
    Dependent Akahina's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,985

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    From an amateur's point of view, to be a masterpiece a fragrance must have not only an amazing and unique blend of notes but must also have some combination of sillage, projection and longevity. I will leave it to those that want to argue which scents are indeed masterpieces of the art of perfumery, but some combination of all these traits certainly must be considered to achieve the masterpiece designation. Just my 2˘ worth.
    My Favorites
    1a. Slumberhouse Zahd
    1. Amouage Epic man
    2. Dior Leather Oud
    3. Amouage Tribute Attar
    4. Le Labo Patchouli 24
    5. Amouage Opus VII
    6. Bond No.9 New York Oud
    7. Norma Kamali Incense


    Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.


    The IFRA can bite me!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Quote Originally Posted by Merely View Post
    I think it may be a personal chemistry issue with you and Eau Sauvage. I find it very long lived indeed.
    Chemistry has a role with Eau Sauvage, that's true. When I first posted about how short lasting it was, quite a few responded that it lasted a long time on them. But there have also been quite a few others who have posted how short lived it is on them.
    In general, most designer scents - including quite a few citrusy ones - easily last a whole working day on me.

    Anyhow, before spending top dollar on a scent, I always give it a three hour wrist test. If it's still there with some strength after 3 hours, it usually lasts a whole working day under clothes on me.
    Regards,
    Renato

  17. #17
    Guerlainista
    rubegon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    War of the Roses
    Posts
    2,188

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I agree completely with Merely on this. None of these performance traits have anything at all to do with whether I consider a fragrance a masterpiece. That word connotes something that is a work of genius, a rare product of human creativity that is novel, beautiful, and expertly crafted.

    Would you say that a painting is not a masterpiece because it doesn't fit the space you want to fill on your wall? Or because it doesn't match your color scheme. No, it is a masterpiece if and only if its beauty is unique and compelling enough.

    A perfume is the same way. Even if it lasts 10 minutes and you have to press your nose to your wrist to smell it.

    On the other hand, that would make a pretty bad fragrance to wear if you want something to make you smell nice throughout the day.

    But we don't wear works of art. We wear attractive functional things. A good pair of shoes is not a masterpiece. It's just a good pair of shoes.

    In the same way, a fragrance that lasts as long as you want it to and projects as far as you want it to, and smells good to you or whoever you want to please is a good fragrance. It may also be a masterpiece if its stunningly gorgeous and original.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  18. #18

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    Quote Originally Posted by Merely View Post
    I think it may be a personal chemistry issue with you and Eau Sauvage. I find it very long lived indeed.
    I have to agree with Renato. I love the scent but find its silliage is seriously lacking
    John aka Easykiller

  19. #19

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    I don't require strong sillage for masterpiece designation, though the right amount is a definite plus. That said, my favorite fragrance -- Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955) -- stays close to the skin and doesn't last terribly long. It just has a spectacular
    collection of notes, of which Oakmoss figures significantly.

    AdP Colonia is also top shelf in my ranking, and is once again not a sillage monster.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Role of sillage, projection, longevity in "masterpiece" designation

    L'eau D'Issey Pour homme and masterpiece .... ?? Your definition of masterpiece is entirely different than mine.

Similar Threads

  1. Sillage and Longevity?
    By ghoulmasser in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30th December 2006, 02:23 AM
  2. How does TM Cologne rate in longevity & Sillage departments?
    By saflyfish in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 30th September 2006, 08:09 PM
  3. Caron Pour Un Homme longevity and sillage?
    By Hysteria in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 27th February 2006, 04:00 AM
  4. Creeds: Longevity and Sillage
    By DrOfTheSoul in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 4th December 2005, 06:52 PM
  5. A question about sillage & longevity
    By myaccolades in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 30th November 2005, 12:46 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •