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  1. #1

    Default Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Hello, fellow DIYers!
    I've been thinking of a theme to follow for my Basenotes blog, and since I've been DIYing for a few years now, I thought I'd follow the lead of White Lotus Aromatics and devote the blog to individual notes/ingredients in perfumery. Christopher's blog is gorgeous, by the way. (Mine is much simpler.)
    http://blog.whitelotusaromatics.com/

    Mine is a bit different in that I plan to cover synthetic aromachemicals as well as naturals. What would make it a great blog is if you all would add comments about your experiences with the ingredients, that way, it would really be more of a group blog about how things are working in our labs. No need to share formulae, of course, just experiences with the ingredients covered. What do you think? It could be a nice resource for other Basenoters.

    Today I started with davana.

  2. #2
    ECaruthers's Avatar
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    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Hi, Elf,

    I think this is a great idea and Davana is an interesting ingredient to start. I've never used it and hadn't even heard of it. I did a quick Google and got floral (maybe like orange) and woody notes . Also the sources were expensive and very expensive. Please tell us more.

    Thanks,
    Ed

  3. #3

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Thanks! I love learning more about fragrant plants. I was surprised davana was so NOT floral, it's got no sweetness whatsoever, but really does smell like tamarind, and blends well with citrus, or sweetens up nicely with candied notes. There's a hint of bitter orange there. A tiny amount will last you a long time, one drop in 10ml of alcohol and it's still quite strong. Cool stuff. I can't get the odor out of my living room (not that that's a bad thing).

  4. #4
    bluesoul's Avatar
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    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Bookmarked for future use should Diana and I ever start down the DIY path. Looks very well written, thanks for sharing this.
    Twitter - @DanielTharp
    DanielTharp.com has additional reviews and commentary.
    Always be content with what you have, never be content with what you are.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    This is a good idea. I have fallen in love with the aromachemical homofuranol for example. I use mostly naturals in my scents but use aromachemicals when I want certain effects. Speaking of Davana, I too adore this material.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Yes, my perfumes are mostly natural (about 80%, usually), but I have some fave aromachemicals also. I'll have to try homofuranol. I particularly love auranone, a mixed musk that I can actually smell (I'm anosmic to most synthetic musks).

  7. #7

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Please note the extraction method as davana essential oil and davana c02 extraction smell markedly different.

    The oil is veery fruity, raisin like with rum tones.

    The c02 extraction has a hint of that odor, but is "thicker", with a resinous and almost leathery note/texture.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 20th May 2009 at 05:36 AM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  8. #8

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Mine is a steam distilled EO from Liberty Natural. Sadly, I don't get any rum tones from mine. The method of distillation does matter, I'll remember to mention it. Frankincense and lavenders come to mind as being drastically different depending on how they are distilled. And I think vintages, locations of cultivation make a big difference, too, but in most cases, the year it was collected isn't mentioned and it's hard to find out. Location's not as mysterious.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    My Davana is from Eden Botanicals and is the rummy kind.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Sorry, I was being slow and thought you had simply forgotten to include a link to your blog; only now did it click that you are using the Basenotes blog function.

    I would have made more focused comments had I known that before. I do think it's important to mention the supplier and extraction method - perhaps even the lot # (would allow us to get some insight in batch to batch variations from the same supplier). Location is always important too: everyone who's smelled both haitian and indonesian vetivers can attest to that!

    Strangely, my davana EO (and C02, for that matter) is from Liberty Natural, but I definitely get a rummy note in the mix. Even diluted to 20%, which I dilute all my oils to before working with them, this stuff is extremely strong. At 5% concentration in a mix it is very noticeable - a dominant note throughout the top and heart. Of course it always depends what you are blending it with, but I'd think something in the 0.25-.75% range would be useful as an accent fruit note, also adding some sweetness.. while 0.75-2.5% or so would be if you wanted to use it as a more dominant heart note. At concentrations of 1% or so, it does well to extend (well, actually bring it forward earlier in the fragrances evolution) and enrich a blackberry note when combined with black currant absolute (also at low concentrations!).

    This is a really good idea. I'll try to contribute more when I can.

    One other piece of advice - I'd recommend diluting everything down to some concentration.. maybe 10% or so, and trying it on your skin and evaluating the notes evolution that way, alongside a strip test and your current method of heat diffusion. While given one's skin chemistry and such we can't expect the oils to develop the same way for all of us, yet I still find it a critical step in really 'understanding' an oil. The evolution is much faster than on a strip and so it's easier to process it and compartmentalize it mentally, imo!
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 20th May 2009 at 03:33 PM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  11. #11

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Dilution is really necessary with some components, otherwise, they're overwhelming, or alternately, imperceptible. Unfortunately, real perfumer's alcohol is harder to get here in the obscure villages of the Alps, than Swarovski crystals, so I have to be very frugal with it. I use weingeist for dilutions, and this gets me most of the way, though it's not perfect. It can be a little frustrating.
    Today's blog note is Auranone, which I've become particularly smitten with, as I have musk anosmia, and can't smell quite a few perfumes, such as Narciso, and Antimatter. Thanks to those who commented on choya nakh!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    I've added massoia bark (lactones) and seville lavender. Seville lavender seems kind of new. Has anyone actually used it in a perfume? I'd like to know if it works as a fig note.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Nice idea for your BN blog, Elf--good job!

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