I'm still immersed in vetiver today:
Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental
I am an avid comic-book reader, excuse me graphic novel reader. One of the more fun books to read was a series called Marvel Team-Up, each issue Spider-Man would team-up with another superhero. Sometimes they were cool and sometimes they felt forced. The one constant to everything was Spider-Man. Vetiver sometimes seems like Spider-Man in that many perfumers look to team-up vetiver with new notes to see what will be found. So it is with the 2002 Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental created by Christopher Sheldrake. If I'm looking for a perfumer who knows the art of the team-up M. Sheldrake would be the nose I'd most likely think of first. His ability to find two different versions of chocolate and patchouli in Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 and Chanel's Coromandel is testament to this ability. In Vetiver Oriental the team-up is to put vetiver on top of a traditional oriental base focused on amber and see what this produces. From the top the vetiver comes out, this is the vetiver that feels sweeter and less woody. I characterize this as more grassy and green than rooty and deeper. This is the opposite tack taken from Borneo 1834 where it was the rooty quality of patchouli that was emphasized. The heart of this is centered around iris and this is a perfect choice to hold the middle ground in this team-up. The iris here is both sweet and slightly astringent and actually serves more as a palate cleanser than a real heart of this scent. The heart is the base which is a mix of chocolate and amber. It is the combination of these two notes that create the Oriental half of things. This is a sweet amber combined with a less-dominant cocoa powder accord to keep the sweet of the amber in focus. The best part of the development of Vetiver Oriental is when you get the contrast of the bittersweet green of vetiver, the floral sweet of iris and the deep rich sweetness of amber all together it is truly a beautiful team-up. It reminds me of when Spider-Man and The Hulk teamed up and what sounded forced turned out to be surprising and fun. Christopher Sheldrake has made a scent that is at turns surprising and fun, another successful team-up.
Have a Funtastic Friday everyone.