Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 31 to 43 of 43
  1. #31

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    I just tried the 100ml of Jardin du Nil, and it's a little different than the original. Still funky, but a little less spice. It gives the same overall effect as before but it seems like the ingredients are cheaper. Maybe that's the big difference between the new and old. Maybe they were just cutting costs.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



  2. #32

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Any word on when these reformulations began or when Jean-Paul Millet Lage took over?

  3. #33

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Millet Lage took over in 1997 according to the website. The reformulations seem to be about the same time as the new bottles, so like 2007-2008.

    After comparing several reformulations vs the originals, I have to conclude that the changes were probably made for the sake of cost rather than trying to popularize them. It doesn't make much business sense to change things for these types of brands, with connaisseur customers - especially when Route du Vetiver seems the most different and that was their best seller.

    The reason I think the issue is cost is because for example Parfum d'Habit - the new version seems funkier and more brash than the old one which was actually easier to take in my opinion. It does smell a little cheaper though. Same goes for Eau des Iles. If anything the new one is louder and messier than the old, which is closer to Eau du Navigateur, though the new and old smell almost exactly the same after 5 minutes. With Jardin du Nil, the funky aspect of it that turns alot of people off is still there. It just smells a little brighter and .. a little cheaper.

    That's my impression anyhow.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



  4. #34

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    The gorgeous Santal Noble!
    When I started reading here on basenotes (no postings), there was Santal Noble time. Everybody was smitten and it was touted to be the very best niche man's fragrance ever.
    I was arranging notes in my head. Dizzy and lightheaded I read more and more, but without a sample it all didn't make sense. A decant was ordered soon (my very first decant order and from overseas as well - what will customs say?) and wow, then it arrived! What an amazing fragrance! I'm still taken by Santal Noble these days, it's that good!

    What a shame the new formulation can't live up with that amazing 90ml bottle.
    Last edited by dr.creed; 27th August 2009 at 06:00 PM.
    decant sales:
    Crystal Flacon

  5. #35

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    Millet Lage took over in 1997 according to the website. The reformulations seem to be about the same time as the new bottles, so like 2007-2008.

    After comparing several reformulations vs the originals, I have to conclude that the changes were probably made for the sake of cost rather than trying to popularize them. It doesn't make much business sense to change things for these types of brands, with connaisseur customers - especially when Route du Vetiver seems the most different and that was their best seller.

    The reason I think the issue is cost is because for example Parfum d'Habit - the new version seems funkier and more brash than the old one which was actually easier to take in my opinion. It does smell a little cheaper though. Same goes for Eau des Iles. If anything the new one is louder and messier than the old, which is closer to Eau du Navigateur, though the new and old smell almost exactly the same after 5 minutes. With Jardin du Nil, the funky aspect of it that turns alot of people off is still there. It just smells a little brighter and .. a little cheaper.

    That's my impression anyhow.
    I can see the reasoning behind your posting and I probably agree but the case of RdV confuses me. Isn't vetiver one of the cheapest raw materials? The new version lacks the oomph that I can only imagine came for a very specific type of vetiver. How expensive could that be? Or is it that they couldn't get hold of that special type of vetiver oil?

    And by the way, has anyone found this strong clay/ earth vibe from a specific type or origin of vetiver oil?

  6. #36

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Quote Originally Posted by dr.creed View Post
    The gorgeous Santal Noble!
    When I started reading here on basenotes (no postings), there was Santal Noble time...

    What a shame the new formulation can't live up with that amazing 90ml bottle.
    I managed to pick up just about every male MPG fragrance at good prices (at least the ones I'm interested in) including several 90ml's but Santal Noble I couldn't find even in 100ml format, except at full retail, so I've still yet to experience it's glory. Must say that almost all the others in the male line have blown me away. I just hope they're as good in winter as in summer.

    Quote Originally Posted by cpk View Post
    I can see the reasoning behind your posting and I probably agree but the case of RdV confuses me. Isn't vetiver one of the cheapest raw materials? The new version lacks the oomph that I can only imagine came for a very specific type of vetiver. How expensive could that be? Or is it that they couldn't get hold of that special type of vetiver oil?
    Maybe what gave the old RdV that special earthy clay aspect were some other ingredients which were more expensive, in a addition to the vetiver oil. Maybe the type of vetiver they used was fancy. Maybe they were using the best available types of all the ingredients, and they just reverted to cheaper ones, and in the case of RdV it made a big change overall, whereas for the others it's less so for chemistry reasons.

    Or maybe it was a really ill-concieved attempt to make the fragrances "hits" but that strikes me as quasi-suicidal unless it's matched with some kind of advertizing campaign which these small companies can hardly afford in good times, never mind in bad times.

    I guess we'll never know.
    Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 28th August 2009 at 12:27 PM.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



  7. #37

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    I really can't think of any other ingredient that has this muddy quality. Please brainstorm! I need more of it!

  8. #38

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Carrot seed oil has a bit of a claylike/muddy quality. So does cepes (a mushroom, the boletus edulis) absolute. I definitely feel the blackcurrant note has been reduced/cheapened in the new RDV - whatever replaces it (jasmine? Perhaps a decent sized dose of hedione?) just doesn't have the depth and body of the original. It adds the sweetness but it's saccharin thin.

    Patchouli/Spikenard/Valerian Root all can have dirty/earthy musky qualities, as well.

    None are particularly expensive though, outside of the blackcurrant absolute - and even that is not so pricey - especially considering it is used in small quantities only lest it overpower a blend.

    I really think he was trying to make the line more palatable to first time shoppers. Given how divisive the house was even on BN, I don't think that the majority of their income was coming from us - the few and fickle fragrance aficionados.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  9. #39

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Interesting about the mudlike ingredients SoS, but do you really think that Millet Lage, the guy who made Bois de Turquie which is one of your favourites of all time, would really try to "improve" the line by making most of the perfumes smell a bit like cheap imitations of themselves?

    If I didn't know about the reformulations and you gave me a 100ml parfum d'habit and jardin du nil and told me they were designer imitations of the MPG I'd believe it.

    I'm super curious about the 100ml RdV, upset that I couldn't find a bottle.

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    None are particularly expensive though, outside of the blackcurrant absolute - and even that is not so pricey - especially considering it is used in small quantities only lest it overpower a blend.

    I really think he was trying to make the line more palatable to first time shoppers. Given how divisive the house was even on BN, I don't think that the majority of their income was coming from us - the few and fickle fragrance aficionados.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



  10. #40

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    Interesting about the mudlike ingredients SoS, but do you really think that Millet Lage, the guy who made Bois de Turquie which is one of your favourites of all time, would really try to "improve" the line by making most of the perfumes smell a bit like cheap imitations of themselves?

    If I didn't know about the reformulations and you gave me a 100ml parfum d'habit and jardin du nil and told me they were designer imitations of the MPG I'd believe it.

    I'm super curious about the 100ml RdV, upset that I couldn't find a bottle.
    Just look at how divisive the old formulations were here on Basenotes.. and we are about as openminded as fragrance customers come. So, yes, I do think that he might have tried to make the line more palatable for the public. I think Bois de Turquie is actually quite palatable and I feel he definitely spent a lot of time getting the top notes just right, the one area Laporte seemed to have little regard for (I mean, how many of the older MPGs had rough openings? Even those who loved the frags often admitted the openings were rough!).
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  11. #41

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    [...] I feel he definitely spent a lot of time getting the top notes just right, the one area Laporte seemed to have little regard for (I mean, how many of the older MPGs had rough openings? Even those who loved the frags often admitted the openings were rough!).
    But the rough openings are/were what gave them a distinctive character

    I fear that once my little sample vial runs out, I'll never smell Parfum d'Habit's farmyard top notes again.

    [That's a bad thing, in case anyone's wondering ]
    Last edited by simisker; 29th August 2009 at 12:40 AM.

  12. #42

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Have you tried the new vs old Parfum d'Habit? The reason I don't think the reformulations were a popularizing measure is because the new version is *more* barnyardy version than the 90ml one I have. Can anyone corroborate or dispute this?

    Quote Originally Posted by simisker View Post
    But the rough openings are/were what gave them a distinctive character

    I fear that once my little sample vial runs out, I'll never smell Parfum d'Habit's farmyard top notes again.

    [That's a bad thing, in case anyone's wondering ]
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



  13. #43

    Default Re: The Master MPG Reformulation Thread [Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Reformulated]

    Hey, has anyone tried the reformulated Centaure vs the original?
    Fraiche Badiane?
    Racine?

    Any Centaure fans here? I have the original, and just adore it. I wear it whenever I wear burgundy. It's an unusually macho scent for me, and frankly I've never gotten a compliment on it, most people don't like it for some reason, but it's a secret favourite of mine.

    I have the new Fraiche Badiane, and it was my ultimate scent on almost every hot humid day. Lots of compliments and pleasure out of it.

    Racine I have the new one, and it makes me think of an herbal and dirtier Guerlain Vetiver. I like it alot, but have yet to wear it in public because it's a bit out of character for me.

    FYI here are some short comments about the one's I've tried, old vs new.

    Jardin du Nil is the one that's changed the most from what I've tried (have not yet compared Santal Noble, RdV or Ambre Precieux though) The new one is gentler, softer, and I think more feminine than the original. It's definitely less tangy, which some may like. Less prominent geranium leaf. The problem is that this difference removes much of it's "manly" character. This is the only MPG reformulation that I've tried that makes enough of a difference that I won't wear the new one. The old one is my SOTD several times a week. The new version is too gentle for me. It's sort of turned into a lovely woman's scent to me, though I'm sure some guys would like this version better from the changes.

    Secret Melange is almost unchanged, though maybe very slightly diluted (I'm guessing with all the new bottles they put the same amount of perfume, but with more alcohol, to fill up 100 vs 90ml. Both are great, and I wear them often, but as a fragrance, I've noticed that to me, it's all about oranges and cloves, but to most people who notice it, they think it just smells like soap, which is a disappointment to me. Someone said it smells like Thrills gum. Ick!

    Parfum d'Habit isn't changed much - might be a bit more husky and barnyard than previously, but nothing serious. Again the old one seems a little more concentrated, though they both last a long time.

    Eau des Iles is kind of brasher and more volatile. The old one was a little more like Eau du Navigateur and tamer. The change isn't radical, and I don't really have a preference. I like the opening of the new one better and the drydown of the old one.

    Iris Bleu Gris
    - I love both versions - an amazing rainy weather fragrance in my opinion. The old one seems a little more concentrated, and the floral aspects of it are more prominent.

    I have the new Route du Vetiver on the way, so I'll finally be able to see what everyone's been talking about.
    Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 25th September 2009 at 01:05 AM.
    CAESAR SEEKS:
    Parfums d'Empire: Fougére Bengale

    CAESAR SWAPS/SELLS:
    Sa Majesté La Rose



Similar Threads

  1. MPG changes
    By SculptureOfSoul in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 11th June 2009, 04:52 AM
  2. New to MPG, which to try first?
    By DutchSmell in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 16th May 2008, 03:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000