Vetiver Tonka - Hermes
Thread: S o t D Thursday 25 June
Serge Lutens : Ambre Sultan
"What is Amber?
The term amber generally refers to either Baltic amber or to fragrant amber resin. Baltic amber is fossilized tree resin and is used primarily in jewelry. Although it is often called "Baltic" amber it actually is found in many parts of the world. It is found in colors ranging from pale yellow to reddish, brown and green. Although it is not thought of as being fragrant, it is! In order to experience its balsamic aroma, take a piece of pure amber (not reconstituted) and shave off small pieces with a knife. This will release a faint aroma. Next take some small pieces and place them on a lit piece of charcoal. The resin will burn and release the fragrant smoke. Be sure not to burn reconstituted amber, which contains plastic polymers or synthetic resins.
The fragrant amber, such as Eden Botanicals' Amber Essence (Amber Essence is our trade name for our exclusive amber resin), is a semi-solid mass of tree resins or gums mixed with essential oils, bees wax and fragrant plant powders. Amber resin is not simply a resin that is tapped from a mysterious tree growing somewhere in the Himalayas! If it were there would be a pure amber essential oil, an amber absolute, or an amber co2 extract. Amber resin is always a blend of different ingredients from many different sources. Every manufacturer of amber, or amber oil uses a different blend of ingredients, hence the consistency and aroma varies considerably. Each amber resin maker uses his or her own, unique and secret formula.
The color of amber resin depends on the ingredients used to make it. Colors range from golden (called honey amber) to reddish, brown and near black. The consistency also varies from very soft to quite hard. Some ambers are waxier, while others contain more crystals. But perhaps it is the aroma that we are most interested in, and this varies greatly as well. There are sweet, floral ambers, and woody, musky ambers. There are also the animal ambers, meaning those which actually include animal scents or synthetic variants. Please click here to purchase Eden Botanicals Amber Essence or our Premium Dark Amber.
At this point one may question, why is amber resin called amber. We believe it is because amber resins are attempting to imitate the scent of ambergris. Ambergris means gray (gris) amber. Ambergris is a gray, black or whitish colored substance that was originally collected from the surface of the ocean by fishermen or from pieces that have washed ashore. It is thought by many to be one of the most sensuous fragrances known, and has been used in perfumery for a long time. The ambergris comes from the sperm whale, which excretes the substance from its intestinal system. For the whale, it is a substance that helps to sooth the intestines after eating cuttlefish. Because ambergris has also been collected from sperm whales that have been intentionally killed, we do not use it in any of our products. Neither do we use synthetic ambergris. True ambergris is a very rare substance."
"Manufacturing Process for Amber Resin
Amber resin is manufactured primarily in India, where it was created as an Ayurvedic formula for stress reduction. (Amber resins are also manufactured in the Middle East.) In India it is called amber dhoop and is sometimes burned in shrines or applied to the forehead for its calming and meditative qualities. As we mentioned, each amber maker uses a different (and highly guarded) formula and method of manufacture. For this reason we can not give you a recipe or an exact ingredient list. However, there are some basic ingredients that are commonly used. These include a resinous base of Styrax tree resin (commonly called benzoin) from the benzoin tree (Styrax benzion or Styrax tokinensis [which is the more fragrant and finer variety]).
It is probable that the styrax resin is refined prior to making the amber. We say this because amber is less sticky than raw styrax resin and contains a greater quantity of crystals (styrax resin contains a high concentration of vanillin crystals). In addition to tree resin, bees wax is often added in the base to keep the resulting amber from crumbling. We have seen some ambers with few crystals and lots of wax, and visa versa.
We have also come across several references to storax gum sometimes called sweetgum, or Levant styrax being used in amber resin. It is a resin obtained from the liquidambar tree (Liquidambar orientalis), which is native to Asia Minor. It is an ancient incense substance which was used in the Middle East. However, after sampling different varieties of storax gum, we feel that it is unlikely that this gum is used in amber resin. The samples that we have obtained all have a rather unpleasant chemical aroma. However, when the storax gum is subsequently steam distilled, an essential oil is produced. The essential oil is typically called styrax (or liquidambar) and has a sweeter, more refined, and more amber-like aroma. This oil can be benificially used in amber oil recipes.
Please note that styrax is both a common name used for liquidambar and also the botanical name for benzoin mentioned above. Although confusing, the name styrax is used for both benzoin and liquidambar.
To the resin and wax base, the amber maker adds essential oils or fragrance oils or ambergris. The types of oils used will determine the final scent of the product. Fragrant plant powders such as sandalwood powder are also added to some ambers. The types of oils typically added include sandalwood and patchouli. Almost any other oils may be added to get the desired scent. A spicy amber may have cinnamon, cardamom or ginger added. A sweet flowery amber may have geranium, rose or a hint of ylang ylang added. Other oils that may be used in certain ambers include: vetiver (khus), spikenard (jatamansi), frankincense, myrrh, cedarwood, vanilla, ambrette musk, etc."
Last edited by PigeonMurderer; 25th June 2009 at 04:04 AM.
Vetiver Tonka - Hermes
quite addictive KOBE from Shooting Stars Collection by Xerjoff
Vetiver The Great!!!
Top notes: Juniper, Lemon, Bergamot, Sweet Lime
Middle notes: Bitter Orange, Thyme, White Jasmine, Nutmeg, Pimento
Base notes: Vetiver, Cedar, Musk, Sandalwood, Ambroxan
Day 4 of the $100 Wardrobe Challenge.
One of my favorite vetiver fragrances - very underrated!
According to Google Product Search, a 1.7oz bottle
can be purchased at midtownperfume.com for $13.95.
This gives me a four-day total of $55.70, leaving me $44.30 for the rest of the week.
Last edited by TwoRoads; 25th June 2009 at 04:27 AM.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
cK one : Calvin Klein
I love Jasmine.
Last edited by scentemental; 25th June 2009 at 04:38 AM.
Once again, Hermes - Caleche with a tiny splash of Joop - Jump
Bond No.9Central Park
Last edited by ajmc; 25th June 2009 at 05:41 AM.
"You can ignore reality, but you can't ignore the consequences of ignoring reality." - Ayn Rand
"I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson
A Taste of Heaven - by Kilian
Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
Splits: Ferragamo Incense Suede, Trumper Eucris, O'driu Eva Kant.
New atomizer and decanting supplies for sale.
For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov
Creed - Royal English Leather
Paul Smith Story
First time from a sample. Just sprayed this on - what a wonderful grapefruit opening!
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
and more! - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more
Hermes Terre d'Hermes (2006, Jean-Claude Ellena)
JC Ellena [FM] L'Eau d'Hiver
Looking to swap/buy/receive for free () the following samples/decants:
Indult Tihota & Rêve en Cuir
Chant d'Aromes extrait
Vetiver pour Elle (5ml decant)
Versace The Dreamer 50ml (1.7oz) BNIB
"The Sunshine bores the daylights outta me!"
Lalique pour Homme
ointments and perfume delight the heart....
Looking for a sample of Gucci Envy Me.
Cacharel Amor Pour Homme
* * * * * * * *
Newbie discovering the wonderful world of perfume
* * * * * * * *
Looking for; http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=210771
Have I told you about the scent of jasmine? Have I spoken about the smell of the sea? The earth is scented. And I perfume myself to enhance what I am. That's why I can not wear a perfume that bothers me. Perfuming is an instinctive wisdom. And like all art, it requires some knowledge of yourself..."
Clarice Lispector ( 1920-1977) - Perfumes da Terra / Earth Perfumes
Bvlgari Pour Homme Soir
Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale
"Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Last edited by Magnifiscent; 25th June 2009 at 08:33 AM.
:::::: Visit My Blog: La gardenia nell'occhiello ::::::
Montana - Montana parfum d'homme (red box)
Tom Ford Amber Absolute
Christian Dior - Dune parfum
Top Notes: Bergamot, Anise Seed, Neroli Oil, Lemon, Coriander
Middle Notes: Carnation, Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Heliotrope, Ylang-Ylang, Orchid, Clove
Base Notes: Iris, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Musk, Vetiver, Benzoin
Yr good bud,
"Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"
Fiat justitia ruat cælum.
Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.
— Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus
Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.
Male irato ferrum committitur.
It is an evil thing to arm an angry man.
The Candy Perfume Boy:One boy's obsession with perfume and all things smelly.
Follow Fragrant Reviews on twitter for fragrance reviews in under 140 characters. Reviews by Candy Perfume Boy & GBlue.
L'Occitane Eau des Baux
Serge Lutens Arabie
My SOTD is Kenzo Jungle pour Homme.
Top Notes: Sweet Lime, Maté
Middle Notes: Nutmeg, Musk Mallow Seeds
Base Notes: Atlas Cedar, Blue Cedar, Benzoin, Guaiac Wood
Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread
montale black aoud
Montale - Red Vetyver
Mugler Cologne today
These things cannot be long hidden: the Sun, the Moon, the Truth--Buddha
KENZO JUNGLE L'ELEPHANT
One I have also just written a brief blog about.
Supposedly I will see the sun before the day is out. Right now it looks as gray as it has for the last too many days. Hope springs eternal in the sunshine deprived corners of my mind.
Day 4 of my $100 Fragrance Wardrobe challenge and today I am wearing one of my beloved cheapies.
Pino Silvestre which is available from scentiments for $9.99 in the 2.5oz EDT which brings my four-day total to $64.79 leaving me $35.21.
You know when you get in a taxi cab and there is a little cut out of a pine tree labeled “air freshener” and it smells like pine. I call that truth in advertising. When you pick up a green glass bottle shaped like a pine cone which is the 1955 creation by Lino Vidal, Pino Silvestre, what do you think its going to smell like? Pino Silvestre is one of the most straight forward scents I own. It is unabashedly an example of "what you see is what you get", just like those pine tree shaped air fresheners. This isn't to say that there isn't some subtlety to this but if you do not like the smell of pine, stay away. The top of this is as quick a transition as I've encountered as there is a drive-by appearance of bergamot and citrus before the pine slams into things. The pine is paired with a great sage The sage adds a beautiful herbal undertone to the pine and makes this quite the enduring pair. If the top was a drive-by, the heart of this is a long slow Sunday drive as the pine and sage lasts for well over an hour. Very slowly and very lightly you get some of the clean lines of cedar and an amber that really adds some depth to this. Pino Silvestre is a long lasting scent that easily lasts all day. If you are a fan of pine then pick up the little glass pine cone and spray away I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Have a Tranquil Thursday everyone.
More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/
Yves Saint Laurent
Monotheme Vetiver Bourbon
Montale Royal Aoud.
Bond no. 9 Central Park
by Paul Smith
Guess by Marciano for men
Current Top 5
1. Creed Aventus
2. A*Men Pure Malt
3. L'instant Extreme
4. Nasomatto Duro
5. CDG - Kyoto
Creed Millisime Imperial
Eau Pour le Jeune Homme....MPG
Don't panic. Just stay calm, and reload....
Santal De Mysore
My Top Six - Guerlain Vetiver, Santal Noble, Bois Du Portugal, Antaeus, GIT, Vetiver Extraordinaire
Bulgari pour Homme Soir
Oud 27 by Le Labo (from a sample - thanks nsamadi)
Wow this smells funky. Woo-hoo!
"All problems are illusions of the mind."
-- Eckhart Tolle
Carnal Flower by Frederic Malle
So, so good.
Creed Royal Scottish Lavender
Tumulte by Christian Lacroix with a spray of Ambre Gris.
Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan
Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense
Oyedo by Diptyque
Don't Smell the Flowers,
They're an Evil Drug to Make You Lose Your Mind --- Dio
Escada Sunset Heat for Men
L’Eau Par Indigo Pour Homme by Kenzo (the new one...very good smelling)
Bond No. 9 Great Jones...my wife LOOOOVVVEEED it on me this morning...so I guess I'll keep it!
Current faves: Aventus, Eau Des Baux, Green Irish Tweed, MFK Masculin Pluriel, Royal Oud