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  1. #1

    Default Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I've been exploring the Patou Ma Collection scents, the ones that I can still get my hands on, that is. I recently acquired a bottle of Que sais-je? and found it extremely wearable for a guy. It's similar to Rochas Femme, but somehow it's much more interesting than the the current reformulation of Roudnitska's classic. Syrupy, cumin, woods and honey. Along the lines of Vol de Nuit.
    Consequently, I ordered some minis: Chaldee, Adieu Sagesse and l'Heure Attendue. While they are quite nice, they are not essential fragrances, IMO.
    Chaldee dries down to pure baby powder, L'Heure Attendue, the most interesting of the three, has real Santal Mysore in its base, but somehow turns to rubber in the final drydown and Adieu Sagesse is just another vintage fruity chypre - not as memorable as Mitsouko.
    Based on my love for Que se-jais? I'm still curious to try Normandie, Colony, Cocktail and any of the others that are outstanding.
    Any opinions out there?
    Thanks in advance for sharing.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 30th June 2009 at 12:42 AM.

  2. #2
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I am also interested in the Patous. I was wondering if you noticed the hazelnut in the Que sais-je?

    I found the Adieu Sagasse (in the large EDT) very good. I don't know, but I'd suspect the minis might be different from the big bottles. Also, male skin reads diff than female, of course. I also have an affinity for aldehydes & I esp get on well with those that still have some oak moss. AS has it in spades!

    Cocktail is a lighter version of AS. I mean it has a similar vibe. Without looking up the notes, I wore it 2 days ago, I remember it was just a bit more tangy and less mossy. There must be some vetiver, & poss galbanum here. I like this one as well. Also from the large bottle and dry. I think earlier there were several versions, bitter, sweet,dry Cocktail...something like that. They must have been flankers. But when these were re-released, I think maybe only the plain 'Cocktail' version was used.

    The one I really love right now is Invitation. I have that in parfum. It is charming. Icouldn't find the notes on it so I bought it blind. It is a floral with some real personality. Not overly amber, with moss in the base. I will have to check my notes on this (it's early). There are blue smelling florals, it may be a well-behaved lavender. The perfumer, Almeras has a carnation base that is modular to his work. Here he seems to build on that and I get some geranium, vanilla & jasmine, too. Overall, it's a delicately balanced floriental. It's just so light and richly golden at the same time, a real work of art, IMO.

    Chaldee is supposed to be based on suntan oil (neroli) something like 'Bain de Soleil'.

    L'Heure Attendue is a puzzle for me because my bottle is diff. from a sample I have. I suspect the samp may be from a mini. The minis were in the MA set that was sold in the 80's.

    My L'HA is high in powdery heliotrope top-notes and sort of stays very strongly high-pitched for an unusually long period. Any subtle dri down is a long time in coming. I am not sure what to make of it.

    The overly hyped Vacances was a disappointment. I got a sample from TPC (maybe it was Posh Peasant?) anyway, it was a dull dud, IMO. Watery lavendar & the affore-mentioned carnation. It was a stale Penhaligons clone.

    I'm anxious to know more about Delices. If anyone has ever had that one!
    Last edited by kumquat; 30th June 2009 at 03:34 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I have the mini of Que se-jais and a large bottle and they were essentially the same. Yes, the hazelnut is there in spades. Adieu Sagasse does seem a little brighter than the others I've tested. Chaldee starts out quite interesting, but the drydown is just too Johnson&Johnson for me.
    Perfume Shrine has a fantastic page on the entire collection:
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/se...a%20collection

  4. #4
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Oh, Colony, I forgot to say, was just like mothballs on me! So weird. But I know lots of people who like it. Camphorous (spell-checker vetoed that one!) I would call it.

    And Normandie I liked very much at first, a mellow mossy, chypre withe carnation base again. Although my sample, from a friend, didn't smell as good to me when I tried it recently so I didn't buy a FB when I saw it available at a discount house. I'm still mulling that over. Must be that I've lost my enthusiasm for amber, as it is ambery. I think it would be good on a male's skin as it has great sillage & personality.
    Last edited by kumquat; 1st July 2009 at 01:36 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Chaldee is supposed to be based on suntan oil (neroli) something like 'Bain de Soleil'...
    Did someone say Bain de Soleil? I love the smell of that stuff!
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Did someone say Bain de Soleil? I love the smell of that stuff!
    How did you get on with Bond Fire Island? that smells just like it IMO.

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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    How did you get on with Bond Fire Island? that smells just like it IMO.
    FI has too much synthetic-esque coconut which takes it into a more Hawaiian Tropic vibe for me.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Umm Hmm... I could see that would be a problem. I'd forgotten about HT. You must be quite the tanning lotion connoisseur. The search goes on. It's all about the neroli, I suppose, I wonder what else makes It smell that way? Then there is the wax & the shea butter, too, I guess.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    FI has too much synthetic-esque coconut which takes it into a more Hawaiian Tropic vibe for me.
    No coconut in Chaldee. Reads more like a white floral oriental.
    I'm finding with the Ma Collection reissues that the bases are rather banal. I'm sure this is due to the unavailability of certain ingredients. Kumquat, you've got me interested in Colony, as I love the smell of camphor and moth balls.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 1st July 2009 at 03:13 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Colony is all types of rich and exotic fruit on me, tempting and warmed by the sun, I feel like a island woman drenched in the juices of the pineapples I have been cutting open for hours. It has such a wonderful scent of pineapple, with leathery notes and a warmth I cannot really think of it in any way like mothballs, but that is on me.
    Cocktail is unique, almost dry and "tonique" if one could use that term.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser ŕ sa source

  11. #11

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Que sais-je? for me was a close relative of Mitsouko. Like Mitsouko made by Jean Patou (opopanax-amber based)
    I was exploring Jean Patou line some time ago, and found some great perfumes, that fits men.
    First, 1000. Mossy chypre in vintage perfume. Great stuff!!!
    Second, Cocktail DRY. Also vintage parfum - smooth fougere with subdued animalic, that is not a perfume, but second skin. Night shade of MdM Guerlain. Different from Cocktail!
    Third, Sublime. A bit sweeter than I wear usually, but still good. Flowery aldehyde oriental - brilliant thing! Vanilla-vetiver thing is better done than in modern Habanita.
    Fourth, vintage parfum-cologne Moment Supreme. Lavender cologne that goes Ylang and oriental. In perfume it`s too much, in cologne it`s great holiday scent. Great lasting power.
    Fifth, Chaldee. EDT 1984 edition. It works like baby-pacifier for me. Evening time, after work at home. Fleurdorange, opopanax and woody amber.
    (And I still wonder - how better all of those were in their first years&)

    Caline does work for me too - but I prefer its message rather bold. I mean vintage Estee Super Perfume - a lot of soapy aldehydes, sandalwood, carnation, orris, oakmoss.
    And some friends recommended me Normandie as masculine cologne, but I still not get it in my collection.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Does anyone know how the 1984 editions compare to more vintage versions of the MA´s?
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

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  13. #13

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I remember the re-issues from the mid 80s. They were excellent.
    I love Colony. It is one of my favorite Chypres. The pineapple is not too loud. It is not overly sweet, but it balances very well with the classic-Chypre notes.
    Evenstar

  14. #14

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Today I'm wearing Divine Folie extrait today and it's lovely. I wonder why it doesn't seem to be popular among the Ma Collection. After reading reports of it being similar to L'heure Bleue but more oriental, I purchased it blind last year; I wasn't disappointed. It's a floriental with emphasis on carnation, coumarine, amber and tiny bit of civet. It's similar to Phul-Nana from the recently revived Grossmiths.
    To those of you who have tried Colony, I've read reviews that it's similar to Mitsouko but with pineapple instead of peach and with more oakmoss. And other reviews liken it to Bandit. So which is closer to Colony? I love both Mitsy and Bandit; is it worth a blind buy?

  15. #15
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I bought this after all. I think the sample I had before was just odd for some reason. It turns out I really like this a lot. It is comparable to Mitsouko with a bit more aldehyde action. I think it would be great on a man, especially if you like Mitzy.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Thank you kumquat for your reply. Your description makes it sound like something I would truly appreciate. But I promised myself no more blind buys, so a sample of this will be arriving soon!
    PS: Just came back from wearing Divine Folie and my friend commented if I was wearing Nahema! Huh?! I guess the rose is really prominent on my skin. Go figure...

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    Thank you kumquat for your reply. Your description makes it sound like something I would truly appreciate. But I promised myself no more blind buys, so a sample of this will be arriving soon!
    PS: Just came back from wearing Divine Folie and my friend commented if I was wearing Nahema! Huh?! I guess the rose is really prominent on my skin. Go figure...
    I saw you were wearing this in SOTD. I have this in parfum. It is glorious! I'm glad you have discovered these. This group is the last little bastion of oak-moss/chypres available. I'm so glad you are able to obtain & enjoy them.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    Normandie is quite nice and getting harder to find.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    +1 for Normandie, a fine unisex scent chypre built around an oak-moss, amber/carnation base. I've since bought a bottle of this, too.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection, 1 hit, 3 misses.

    I went through several bottles of Câline - it was a real staple for me. Green but not sharp, mossy and mysterious but also candid and fresh - it really was "all that", for me anyway.

    I also had a bottle of the Amour Amour but found it a bit too powdery and gifted it to a better home.

    Regarding the re-issues of the Ma Collection scents - remember the lovely little scarves that came with those bottles. It would be unheard of today.

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