Jasmine EO, undiluted, origin unknown - rubbery petals, with a big helping of inky poo and the smell of a chlorinated swimming pool.
Jasmonal H - sugary, bright jasmine. no dirtiness whatsoever.
Compiled from the Note Identification Project Thread:
Jasmine Grandiflora Absolute, Egypt, Eden Botanicals - This is my favorite of the three samples I got. Strong, penetrating, rich and fruity. Smells like a floral version of Juicy Fruit chewing gum. Has a bit of an indolic note, but nothing off-putting, only warm and a tad bit fecal. This could be a perfume all by itself. I find it eminently wearable. It is my favorite of the three.
Jasmine Grandiflora Absolute, India - A weaker version of the above. Not as sweet, nor as heady, but still pretty.
Jasmine Grandiflora: cat pee, rose, moth balls, wet cardboard, sweet
Jasmine Absolute, 2% in oil
The smell is very fruity and sweet - like ripe banana - at the start. It them mellows and takes on a more animalic/indolic facet (probably slightly fecal) without losing its extreme floralcy. After about twenty minutes, it becomes also slightly smoky. To my nose, this is the kind of jasmine forming the main note in Serge Lutens' Sarrasins.
Jasmine Grandiflorum: very sweet white floral, almost dead ringer for SL A la Nuit, although slightly fruitier to my nose and less indolic. I think I also detected a small amount of something musky in there too - like white musk, not animalic musk.
Jasmine Grandiflora (natural) Ė One of my all-time favorite natural perfumery ingredients; nothing beats this flower to put on a show all by itslef, thank-you, no supporting notes needed. Natureís ready-made perfume. The Egyptian origin absolute is the best.
Jasmine Absolute - I'm seeing the same thing as other people in terms of my Jasmine Grandiflora (India, CO2) versus my normal Jasmine Absolute (India). The Grandiflora CO2 is much nicer and sweeter than the normal absolute. Definitely less of the fecal, musty, and earthy stuff. Although in drydown the Absolute was quite nice. I would love to have a sample of the Egyptian, but if it's anything like the Egyptian jasmine in JdN, then it has to be good.
Jasmine Sambac Absolute- Jasminum sambac, India, Eden Botanicals - Opens on a greener note but settles into a heavier floral quality. This is more indolic than the grandiflora, and I find that it has a bit of a salty, fleshy quality. It, too, is truly beautiful and could stand on its own as a perfume. It has a more singular fruitiness than the grandiflora, as though the fruit note is focused on one fruit, not tutti-fruiti like the grandiflora.
Jasmine (Sambac): moth balls, apricot, cat pee, dry
Jasmine Sambac absolute (3% in carrier) and got something that was somewhat headier and almost fecal (indolic?). Even closer to A la Nuit than Grandiflorum, which now makes me think of the bright, slightly fruity jasmine used in Patou's Joy. Oddly, I tend to find I really enjoy jasmine on some days and other days I dislike it. Definitely more a fan of Grandiflorum than Sambac.
I am totally in love with Jasmine Grandiflorum . I got some absolute - heavenly .
For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.
Iíve been meaning to do a comparative write-up on this for a while as I have jasmine in quite a few forms and from several sources. Here goes:
First the more common jasmines based on Jasminum grandiflorum or Jasminum officinale
Jasmine Absolute - Egyptian - classic, deep rich, heady floral with the characteristic indolic element.
I have this from a couple of sources, of which Aqua Oleum sells retail - there isnít a lot to choose between the sources Iíve used - they are both excellent examples IMO.
Jasmine - synthetic accord: this is a top-quality synthetic for use in fine fragrance. Itís a very good match to the real absolute but when you smell the two alongside you can easily spot the difference: the synthetic is sweeter and lacks some of the depth of the real absolute.
Jasmine Sambac: I have several sources for this as itís a variant that is less used, but IMO much better. Many people Iíve tested these on who say they donít like Jasmine, or get a headache from it, say they do like these. All are derived from Jasminum sambac with variations in the country of origin and supplier:
Essentially me: sold as a 20% dilution
Aqua Oleum: sold as the pure absolute. These are sister companies and I think the source is the same - listed as India, China or China, India depending on which of their sites you look at . . . the scent is much greener than the usual jasmine with a slightly soapy quality. Sweeter and slightly less heady, it shows itís best when diluted.
Hermitage Oils: this one is Indian and not to be confused with the one that follows. Itís slightly more soapy than the previous with less green and more floral elements and a subtle muskiness. Very lovely and was my top choice until I discovered the next one . . .
Hermitage Oils Sacred Jasmine Sambac - Iíve saved this until last because IMO it is without doubt the last word in jasmine for perfumery. Unlike any other jasmine absolute Iíve ever tried, this one smells just like smelling real jasmine flowers. Iíve had the good fortune to have the sample for a quite a while now and over Christmas I tested it on my sister - her immediate reaction was Ďoh! It smells just like an Indian wedding . . .í and she should know as her second marriage was indeed an Indian Wedding. I canít overstate how different this is from ordinary absolutes - this is from Vietnam and there is conjecture about what method the source is using to extract it - it isnít a CO2 extraction, as I first thought, but whatever they are doing it is capturing those elusive top-notes that are normally lost even in very good absolutes. If youíve ever caught a whiff of jasmine drifting over from flowers you canít see and been entranced by it you will know what this smells like. Quite special.
Last edited by Chris Bartlett; 21st January 2012 at 03:53 PM. Reason: added bold titles
Jasime Absolute Sacred Sambac (same as the one Chris is talking about) Ė a cold floral smell. It's definitely a blue or lilac smell, no doubt about it. Quite powdery with a hint of........bubblegum??? A cool floral that needs to warmed up. I can see how some people would find this almost medicinal/pharmacists smell. As a person I see this as a female nurse, or someone quite aloof, intellectual or sophisticated. Someone who thinks a lot. As an element Jasmine would be air. I almost imagine this is a perfume for a ghost of a sad young lady. Note sure what to put it with.
Last edited by Ceridwen; 28th January 2012 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Adding some extra notes
Jasmin sambac absolute - Hermitage Oils
The first thing that strikes me about this is the heavy tea note. Not as in Jasmin tea but as in green, bitter, tea. The heady floral aspect only makes an appearance in mid drydown them it blooms and you can smell Jasmin. Heavy, strong yet quite green. This is a Jasmin I like and it seems to like me as well. I have skin that amplifies sweet in everything but this Jasmin remains true giving me a strong, green and waxy floral. It never turns sweet nor overwhelming. I can now appreciate just why this material is so expensive but also why its absolutely worth paying for. No other floral has such an enormous presence and is so long lasting.
My daughter's favorite is Jasmine Grandiflora. Used to have it in her home. Incredibly fragrant.
The best take on jasmine sambac i know of is Sarrasins, i love it, it smells like perfumed up jasmine Sambac:-), i love the high C note and indoles at the opening, its very distinctive note, and smells of nature in the vase
Egyptian jasmine is much more quiet, with some light fecal note ...warmer and less characteristic then Sambac