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  1. #1
    Asha's Avatar
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    Default Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Compiled from the Note Identification Project Thread:

    Black Agar:this one is more interesting than some of the last synthetics i smelled, it is woody with berries and blossoms, after a while the berries with the blossoms seem to take over.

    Black Agar
    – Gorgeous woody, fruity, ambery fragrance. Smells nothing like real agarwood, but it is a gorgeous Oriental perfume containing notes of red rose and oud in the Arabic tradition. Sweeter than the usual renditions. Possibly some almond in here, too.

    Oud
    , CO2 extraction, origin unknown, Tigerflag – I’ve always wondered, what does real oud smell like? Well, this is the real thing, and it is amazing. It smells like—a bag of hardwood mulch, aged oak mulch. Rich, full, sweet, deep, woody, with a bitter medicinal bite. It also smells fecal and like unwashed laundry. Mysterious and addictive. I bought this ethically harvested product from Tigerflag.com. My sample was a light, opaque brown, semi-solid paste. Madini Agarwood perfume smells similar to this.

    Oud: bleu cheese, goat cheese, white wine, blonde wood, mold

    Oud - I was shocked when I tried the Oud. It has so many facets-- some of them a bit revolting ( Now I can see why Oud Cuir D'Arabie reeks so bad!) Still, I could detect those things which give M7 its signature and also the facets of some of the Montales. Interesting. I was already working on a cypress scent and I used a few drops of the oud to liven it up a little. Nice.

    Oud – Absolutes from different countries:
    Cambodian Classic - Warm, a bit fecal, woody, hints of sawdust, with some sweetness in the drydown. Complex, deep, and medicinal.
    Junnid Cambodian - Warm, less fecal, with some rubbery nuances, sweeter in the drydown. Hours later, the most dramatic development. Cinnamon undertones.
    Indian Aged 10 Years - Also called "Hindi Assam Qasoosi Kadeem," which means the tree was 40-50 years old and the oud has been aged for a decade. Cooler, least fecal of all, most deeply woody, straightforward. The strongest and longest-lasting.
    Vietnam - Warm, sweeter but less complex or strong as Cambodian.
    Vietnam Wild - Herbal, not fecal, less bitter or woody, mildest with pleasant, sweet, green, haylike note. Hours later, fairly sweet and even a bit fruity or floral. Most complex aroma. My favorite.
    Last edited by Asha; 4th July 2009 at 02:54 AM.

  2. #2
    jenson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    wow~ lovely snapshot

    i too have pure oudh based absolute called dehnul oudh. it's supposedly b-grade, but sells at premium abroad. i got it from out BNer Aamir (AK3D). i didnt expect oudh to smell like this..very feccal..barnyard..to an extent, i felt like i was in a cow shed... settles to a lovely, earthy note. an experience i wouldnt forget.

    btw, doesnt Original Oudh Contain Combodian Oudh...? so thats what you mean by medicinal Oudh..now i get the connection...Montale used to very same oudh in Cuir d Arabie.

    needless to say, im anxious to leanr more about other types..
    Last edited by jenson; 10th July 2009 at 10:49 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    If anyone has small oud samples to spare *please* contact me. I am willing to pay for them. It's ok if they are diluted but the dilution concentration MUST be known, otherwise it is not that useful to me. Also, I'd prefer only ouds that are possible to attain more of - nothing discontinued or from an unknown source, as once I find the right oud for something I'm working on, I'm going to need to source more of it.

    Thank you!

    (I apologize if this comes across as spam. I will gladly post my impressions of any oud oils I receive - this just seems like an ideal thread to mention this as I am desperately seeking the "right oud for the job." I totally understand if a moderator wants to move this post though, and I wouldn't be offended. Thanks again.)
    ***For sale:

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    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  4. #4

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Please check PM, SculptureOfSoul.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    btw, doesnt Original Oudh Contain Combodian Oudh...?
    Yes, prominent and linear.

  6. #6
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    Chris Bartlett's Avatar
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Just adding to this that Iíve seen oudh available today for the first time from a European essential oil supplier today and as I was lucky enough to have some prior to it going on sale I know itís a really interesting oil - light in colour unlike much of the stuff that comes here via the Gulf - and very characteristic of Cambodian agarwood in scent: medicinal top-notes, animalic, resinous and woody-sweet underneath, very tenacious too as youíd expect.

    It just so happens that I have a discount code for Hermitage so if anyone is interested in buying, just PM me.

    Iím going to be building a fragrance around this oil over the next few months and Iím really quite excited about it.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

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    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Bartlett View Post
    Just adding to this that I’ve seen oudh available today for the first time from a European essential oil supplier today and as I was lucky enough to have some prior to it going on sale I know it’s a really interesting oil - light in colour unlike much of the stuff that comes here via the Gulf - and very characteristic of Cambodian agarwood in scent: medicinal top-notes, animalic, resinous and woody-sweet underneath, very tenacious too as you’d expect.

    It just so happens that I have a discount code for Hermitage so if anyone is interested in buying, just PM me.

    I’m going to be building a fragrance around this oil over the next few months and I’m really quite excited about it.
    As a perfumer, in your opinion is there a particular country that produces the best quality oud? I had always heard from reading that Cambodia was, but like to know what you think.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    As a perfumer, in your opinion is there a particular country that produces the best quality oud? I had always heard from reading that Cambodia was, but like to know what you think.
    Good question and Iím not sure my answer matches up, because it really depends on what you consider to be Ďbest qualityí and that depends on what you are trying to do with it - Iíll come back to that.

    First there is the consideration of species of tree (it is mainly Aquilaria crassna in Cambodia, but there are a total of 16 trees capable of producing oud): the differences between them are often confused by the widespread practice of co-distilling mixed batches of wood from multiple sources.

    Then there is the consideration of age - age of tree and, more importantly, the age of the infection: for those that donít know oud is only produced when the trees are damaged, usually as a result of a fungal infection. The older the infection the better the quality of the oil-producing wood. With no infection there is no essential oil and the wood has no value.

    There are also differing views about the extraction methods - traditional water distillation, modern steam distillation and even CO2 extraction - each have their fans. The water extracted stuff tends to be darker and is much favoured in Arab communities where oud has a long tradition of use, particularly in a religious context. For perfumery I think the steam distilled is better because the colour is easier to work into a blend and the top notes are brighter. Iíve not yet tried a CO2 extraction so canít comment except to say that availability is very limited.

    Some people would claim that the best quality oud was the stuff produced in parts of India from Aquilaria gallocha which is almost completely unavailable now: I would argue that unless reasonable quantities with reasonable security of supply is available even the small perfume producer canít really use the stuff, so however good it may be as an oil, itís no use as an ingredient.

    Thatís at the heart of it really - this Cambodian stuff is practical to use as a perfumery ingredient and I believe itís about the best that can be obtained, given that constraint. Iím not sure Iíd say that is because itís Cambodian though - Iím sure there is poor quality material produced there and good quality in, for example, Thailand.

    Thatís a long waffle round but does it answer your question?
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Thanks. That perfectly answers my question.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    At the recent British Perfumerís Society symposium I was introduced to a number of interesting new materials and one of them was a variety of Agarwood that Iíd not previously come across.

    I emphasise that this is Agarwood, but it isnít oud . . . the species is Aetoxcylon sympetalum and the material is steam distilled essential oil.

    Iím currently waiting for a sample to arrive and Iíll update this when I have that, but I did get to smell the stuff at the symposium and it does have a distinctly oud-like character: Very strongly woody, rich and warm. Largely lacking the medicinal top note you get from some oud - it is claimed to be very long-lasting but of course I couldnít test that.

    My impression at this stage is that while it would not wholly substitute for oud from Aquillaria species it would make a very good means of bolstering those notes at a more reasonable cost (about one 80th the price of Cambodian oud) and without the environmental issues.

    So far I have not found a supplier selling it in anything less than 1kg lots however.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    I guess this helps explains why some oud/aoud-heavy fragrances are very biting and really in-your-face while others are milder and much softer and toned-down.

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Compiled from the Note Identification Project Thread:

    Black Agar:this one is more interesting than some of the last synthetics i smelled, it is woody with berries and blossoms, after a while the berries with the blossoms seem to take over.

    Black Agar
    – Gorgeous woody, fruity, ambery fragrance. Smells nothing like real agarwood, but it is a gorgeous Oriental perfume containing notes of red rose and oud in the Arabic tradition. Sweeter than the usual renditions. Possibly some almond in here, too.

    Oud
    , CO2 extraction, origin unknown, Tigerflag – I’ve always wondered, what does real oud smell like? Well, this is the real thing, and it is amazing. It smells like—a bag of hardwood mulch, aged oak mulch. Rich, full, sweet, deep, woody, with a bitter medicinal bite. It also smells fecal and like unwashed laundry. Mysterious and addictive. I bought this ethically harvested product from Tigerflag.com. My sample was a light, opaque brown, semi-solid paste. Madini Agarwood perfume smells similar to this.

    Oud: bleu cheese, goat cheese, white wine, blonde wood, mold

    Oud - I was shocked when I tried the Oud. It has so many facets-- some of them a bit revolting ( Now I can see why Oud Cuir D'Arabie reeks so bad!) Still, I could detect those things which give M7 its signature and also the facets of some of the Montales. Interesting. I was already working on a cypress scent and I used a few drops of the oud to liven it up a little. Nice.

    Oud – Absolutes from different countries:
    Cambodian Classic - Warm, a bit fecal, woody, hints of sawdust, with some sweetness in the drydown. Complex, deep, and medicinal.
    Junnid Cambodian - Warm, less fecal, with some rubbery nuances, sweeter in the drydown. Hours later, the most dramatic development. Cinnamon undertones.
    Indian Aged 10 Years - Also called "Hindi Assam Qasoosi Kadeem," which means the tree was 40-50 years old and the oud has been aged for a decade. Cooler, least fecal of all, most deeply woody, straightforward. The strongest and longest-lasting.
    Vietnam - Warm, sweeter but less complex or strong as Cambodian.
    Vietnam Wild - Herbal, not fecal, less bitter or woody, mildest with pleasant, sweet, green, haylike note. Hours later, fairly sweet and even a bit fruity or floral. Most complex aroma. My favorite.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    Le Labo Oud 27 - it reminded me of Midnight Oud from JHG, i did not like it at first thought it smells watered down, but later i loved it so much, its somehow fruity..something sweet in there...and mixed with other ingredients..maybe some rose as well, would love to know from experienced sniffers what kind of oud quality is there?

    Amouage Tribute so far is my oud reference perfume, it smells deep, complex, warm, fruity-sweet , rich, woody-ambery, a bit fecal....like high quality?

    Monatale Royal oud - this is more like spiced up woody perfume, very light oud that has some medicinal note too

    Montale Cuir d Arabie- the medicinal note is much less pronounced, but that light fecal-barnyardish smell is present, its full rich , opulent, but not sweet and warm as in Tribute...i love it the most from Montale

  13. #13

    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    +1 to dehnul Oud...

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Aoud / Oud / Oudh / Agarwood

    +2

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