Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

[Asha]

From the Note Identification Project thread:

Amber, Kuumba Made: warm honey and beeswax yummy. Note: This is labdanum paste.

[ECaruthers]

Is there an accepted definition of what goes into an amber accord? In your ambergris post you said, "what is typically considered an amber accord (labdanum, benzoin, vanilla)." I think I smell benzoin and vanilla in my sample of MPG Ambre Precieux. Or does each perfumer use his/her idea of what smells correspond to an amber color? If, as Luca Turin says, amber is, "the refernece smell of the Maghreb and Middle East street market," it seems like there should be a standard set of ingredients, even if the proportions are varied.

Thanks.

[Asha]

EC, Mandy Aftel lists Vanilla, Labdanum and Benzoin in her book. As far as I am concerned, it must contain labdanum at minimum.

[ECaruthers]

Thanks, Asha. I'll include labdanum in my next order from The Perfumer's Apprentice. From your note at the top, is labdanum the dominant component of amber? And is it your sense that the "ambers" used in good fragrances are a lot alike or pretty variable?

[Asha]

EC, to my nose, labdanum is the most prominent note in a basic amber blend, although vanilla is so often used, it is hard to imagine amber without something sweet. Mandy Aftel's proportion is:

1 vanilla
5 labdanum
20 benzoin

Although volumetrically, benzoin is the largest portion, benzoin tincture or EO is so mild, it really is almost a dilutant to the labdanum and vanilla.

As far as amber accord in fragrances, they are all over the map as far as I can tell. I am sure synthetics are often used, too.

[Nostalgie]

I am fascinated (read, obsessed) with the all-over-the-place amber accord. Because it is an accord and not a note, there is room for play, but I keep wanting it to have standard basic list of notes, like a chypre.

At a workshop at the Osmothèque I learned that fragrances in the amber "family" are based on:
bergamot
labdanum
incense
patchouli
heliotropin
vanilla
vanillin (much sweeter, more gourmand than vanilla absolute)


At a workshop run by l'Artisan parfumeur benzoin, myrrhe, vanilla and tonka were mentioned (because these are basenotes in their l'Eau ambre)


I have just sprayed Ambre précieux, Ambre 114, Amber essence (Ava Luxe), and Ambre sultan on various wrists and arms, and it is interesting to observe the way the sweeter notes behave in each.

[I'm also reminded that while I love amber, in hot summer weather I find it almost suffocating]

[Asha]

Interesting info, Nostagie! I can see also having sandalwood in an amber accord since its woodyness will complement the labdanum and vanilla. Of course, I am sure if a fragrance contains sandalwood, every perfumer will want to list it in the published notes

I agree with the cloying quality--it comes mostly from the labdanum, I think. And, if it is too highly sweetened with vanilla, that can really push it over the top. Profumum Ambra Aurea is a labdanum heavy fragrance, very powerful. Even in cool weather I have to be in the right frame of mind for it.

[Doc Elly]

There is a huge variation in labdanum to begin with, so it's no wonder that amber accords all smell different. I would think that the skeleton of any amber accord is labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin, with other things optional. I think the Aftel formula is about right.

[Deviant]

Needs to be used carefully (Joop Homme take note). When used in excess it is sickly and overpowering, but it can add a nice sweetness to fragrances when used in moderation.