Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1

    Default Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    From the Note Identification Project thread:

    Amber, Kuumba Made: warm honey and beeswax yummy. Note: This is labdanum paste.

  2. #2
    ECaruthers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    946
    Blog Entries
    22

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    Is there an accepted definition of what goes into an amber accord? In your ambergris post you said, "what is typically considered an amber accord (labdanum, benzoin, vanilla)." I think I smell benzoin and vanilla in my sample of MPG Ambre Precieux. Or does each perfumer use his/her idea of what smells correspond to an amber color? If, as Luca Turin says, amber is, "the refernece smell of the Maghreb and Middle East street market," it seems like there should be a standard set of ingredients, even if the proportions are varied.

    Thanks.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    EC, Mandy Aftel lists Vanilla, Labdanum and Benzoin in her book. As far as I am concerned, it must contain labdanum at minimum.

  4. #4
    ECaruthers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    946
    Blog Entries
    22

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    Thanks, Asha. I'll include labdanum in my next order from The Perfumer's Apprentice. From your note at the top, is labdanum the dominant component of amber? And is it your sense that the "ambers" used in good fragrances are a lot alike or pretty variable?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    EC, to my nose, labdanum is the most prominent note in a basic amber blend, although vanilla is so often used, it is hard to imagine amber without something sweet. Mandy Aftel's proportion is:

    1 vanilla
    5 labdanum
    20 benzoin

    Although volumetrically, benzoin is the largest portion, benzoin tincture or EO is so mild, it really is almost a dilutant to the labdanum and vanilla.

    As far as amber accord in fragrances, they are all over the map as far as I can tell. I am sure synthetics are often used, too.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    I am fascinated (read, obsessed) with the all-over-the-place amber accord. Because it is an accord and not a note, there is room for play, but I keep wanting it to have standard basic list of notes, like a chypre.

    At a workshop at the Osmothèque I learned that fragrances in the amber "family" are based on:
    bergamot
    labdanum
    incense
    patchouli
    heliotropin
    vanilla
    vanillin (much sweeter, more gourmand than vanilla absolute)


    At a workshop run by l'Artisan parfumeur benzoin, myrrhe, vanilla and tonka were mentioned (because these are basenotes in their l'Eau ambre)


    I have just sprayed Ambre précieux, Ambre 114, Amber essence (Ava Luxe), and Ambre sultan on various wrists and arms, and it is interesting to observe the way the sweeter notes behave in each.

    [I'm also reminded that while I love amber, in hot summer weather I find it almost suffocating]
    Last edited by Nostalgie; 12th July 2009 at 11:04 PM.
    "You...put on cologne to write?"(From Midnight in Paris)

    Stop by for a chat: http://perfumedletters.wordpress.com/
    My book reviews: http://www.nstperfume.com/author/Cheryl/

  7. #7

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    Interesting info, Nostagie! I can see also having sandalwood in an amber accord since its woodyness will complement the labdanum and vanilla. Of course, I am sure if a fragrance contains sandalwood, every perfumer will want to list it in the published notes

    I agree with the cloying quality--it comes mostly from the labdanum, I think. And, if it is too highly sweetened with vanilla, that can really push it over the top. Profumum Ambra Aurea is a labdanum heavy fragrance, very powerful. Even in cool weather I have to be in the right frame of mind for it.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    There is a huge variation in labdanum to begin with, so it's no wonder that amber accords all smell different. I would think that the skeleton of any amber accord is labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin, with other things optional. I think the Aftel formula is about right.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    Needs to be used carefully (Joop Homme take note). When used in excess it is sickly and overpowering, but it can add a nice sweetness to fragrances when used in moderation.
    Top 10:
    1. Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta
    2. YSL M7
    3. Tom Ford Bois Marocain
    4. Creed Green Irish Tweed
    5. Dior Homme/Intense
    6. YSL Opium
    7. Azzaro Pour Homme
    8. Frederic Malle's Musc Ravageur
    9. YSL Live Jazz
    10. Burberry London

  10. #10

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    What do we think, when we think of Amber?
    We think of distant lands, to large sailing ships with fragrant treasures and rare spices. It is 1869, the Cutty Sark comes back loaded with tea, spices and fruits to Europe. That's Amber - Vanilla, Cinnamon, Roses, Rare Citrus Fruits, Incense, Pepper, Coriander, Cardamom, Ginger, Musk, Patchouli and expensive Sandlholz. I think, that`s Amber.

    Labdanum, Benzoe, Tolu, Styrax Amber

    Take Vanilla, Tolu, Benzoe and Patchouli and you have a note for reminiscent of chocolate. a little bit.
    http://www.aromatisches-blog.de
    Here`s something for the tip of your nose!

  11. #11
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    84,304

    Default Re: Amber Accord (not Ambergris)

    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant View Post
    Needs to be used carefully (Joop Homme take note). When used in excess it is sickly and overpowering, but it can add a nice sweetness to fragrances when used in moderation.
    Quite true.

Similar Threads

  1. What does Amber smell like?
    By atrac in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 53
    Last Post: 13th February 2012, 11:34 PM
  2. I'd Appreciate Help in Finding an Amber with NO Vanilla
    By Hoos in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 2nd November 2008, 03:48 AM
  3. The Famous Creed Ambergris Base
    By LuciusVorenus in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 44
    Last Post: 4th September 2008, 09:44 PM
  4. Scents with Ambergis!
    By TheRomantic in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 42
    Last Post: 24th February 2008, 08:47 AM
  5. Amber and Ambergris
    By MikeFromManhattan in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 9th February 2006, 08:20 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000