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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Has anyone smelled this?

    It's a discontinued (originally released in '67) Eau de Cologne formula. The Perfumed Court sells samples of it, but I have NEVER seen a bottle for sale on Ebay nor have I heard it being discussed here on Basenotes.

    I know that there's already a bunch of different formulations of Habit Rouge:

    Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Extrait (parfum), After Shave, Light (Legere) and Sport. Whew! Nonetheless, being the completist that I am, I want to smell the Dry.

    Anyone??
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  2. #2

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    No, but it sounds interesting.

    If they still have some around, I will order it next time from TPC.
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  3. #3

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Haven't smelled it yet but I did once see a bottle for sale on ebay from one of the 'usual suspect' vintage Guerlain sellers. It's on my TPC wishlist.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by shermanirving View Post
    Haven't smelled it yet but I did once see a bottle for sale on ebay from one of the 'usual suspect' vintage Guerlain sellers. It's on my TPC wishlist.
    If you remember did the bottle differ from the 'regular' HR EdC - square, gold cap, burgundy label edged in gold?
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  5. #5
    Mr. G's Avatar
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    The one I saw on eBay was a very old tester bottle, so not possible to see the commercial bottle. Not even the "Guerlain bottle bibel" has a pic of it... Found this pic of its mini:



    Label looks almost like the normal EdC from 1965, so I'm sure it's the same square "travel bottle" version.
    Last edited by Mr. G; 15th July 2009 at 09:32 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    If you remember did the bottle differ from the 'regular' HR EdC - square, gold cap, burgundy label edged in gold?
    I'm sorry I don't remember what the bottle looked like. Perhaps the TPC ladies will send you a oic or describe it?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain



  8. #8
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Thanks for the pics gents.

    I might have to spring for a sample/decant of this, to tame my curiosity.
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  9. #9

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    Gives me pleasure just looking at that mini.
    Looking for a sample of Gucci Envy Me.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Does dry come with an olive or a twist? I have never heard of this one. Happy hunting Mike.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Has anyone actually smelled it?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by monsieur_sparkle View Post
    Has anyone actually smelled it?
    Inquiring minds want to know.

    Of course I know that the scent is rare, but so are many other scents that people have smelled and reported about here on Basenotes (Iris Gris, Nombre Noir, etc.) It's kind of bizarre that no one on Basenotes (yet) has posted impressions of the scent from actually smelling it. I mean, if we Guerlain devotees haven't smelled it who the heck has?
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 16th July 2009 at 07:36 PM.
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  13. #13

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Inquiring minds want to know.

    Of course I know that the scent is rare, but so are many other scents that people have smelled and reported about here on Basenotes (Iris Gris, Nombre Noir, etc.) It's kind of bizarre that no one on Basenotes (yet) has posted impressions of the scent from actually smelling it. I mean, if we Guerlain devotees haven't smelled it who the heck has?
    There are two people that may know:

    (1) One of the ladies at TPC.

    (2) The person who bought it also bought a sample of FM Geranium Pour Monsieur. QUICK, poll everyone who bought GPM!
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  14. #14

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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Nice one Scentemental! How does Scentemental do it folks? Does he work for Guerlain or something haha ;0

  15. #15

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Just discovered this thread. Time to de-lurk. Habit Rouge Dry.

    I wore this from when I started shaving -- it was my signature scent from the age of around 14, apart from brief flings with the remarkable Nine Flags range. (Pretentious? Moi?)

    Haven't smelt it since so any reconstruction is purely from memory and I didn't know that much back then so I don't have tasting notes from back in the day.

    It was, to a fourteen-year-old brought up with a grandfather who wore Violet Hair Oil and a father who would splash on Old Spice for special occasions (then count his testicles, to make sure that they were still there despite wearing "scent"), an astounding experience.

    It came in a dark pink opaque curvy flask. You can see an example here:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/1967-Habit-Rouge...#ht_1671wt_840

    This was the same flacon that the Habit Rouge EdT came in. (The cologne and aftershave came in the standard chunky rectangular bottles, as they do now.) My recollection is that initially those bottles were ceramic, then, later, glass with a heavy plastic coating. I may be wrong.

    As to the jus -- if memory is right, the hesperidic top notes were dryer. I suspect bitter orange and perhaps limonette along with the inevitable bergamot. There was also a greeny-orangey-rosy vibe which might have been nonanal, which would make sense.

    In the middle there was what appears to me in hindsight to be a clever sort of neroli/linalool/herbal/petitgrain chord, quite persistent, and a drier base note, still vanillic but with an odd dirty/clean stunt going on. Less of a vanilla/opopanax cuddle, more orris/powdery.

    My mind's nose is muttering about coumarin, musk Baur and a tiny fraction of birch tar but I think it may be lying since it's also been lying about cis-3-hexanol and, particularly, Hedione and methyl (e)-4,7-octadienoate (since the latter was only introduced in the 1990s and the former, though around, was exclusive to Roudnitska/Dior in Eau Sauvage).

    There's a thought, though. Eau Sauvage: 1966. HR Dry: 1967. Wouldn't be surprising if Jean-Paul Guerlain was trying to get in on the style of ES but by different means.

    Now my mind's nose has started lying about estragol (herbal/tarragon/basil) and I'm getting completely derailed. Trouble with trying to fractionally smell something that only exists in memory is you end up recreating something you'd *like* to have smelt, not something you *have* smelt. My apologies.

    The only thing I can really say is that it did what it said on the label. It had the idiosyncratic sophistication of Habit Rouge without the "sweetness". If Habit Rouge was the scent of the bon chic bon genre 1e arrondissement banker moving suavely from hunting field to drawing-room, from board meeting to elegant chateau to mistress's boudoir, then the Dry version was his edgy younger brother, more of flaneur, always a day away from clean-shaven. Women admired Habit Rouge Man but from a slight distance; Habit Rouge Dry, they'd slap his face, then fall into his arms. (Oho... in my 15-year-old dreams...)

    You pays your money.

    Rambling and probably inaccurate, but the best I can do. I miss the stuff and would buy it in a heartbeat except... what I'd hope to be buying is my younger self, with the infinite possibilities of that time in life, but knowing then what I know. And that's something you can never do.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    ^Thanks for sharing extensively, bargepole!
    Currently wearing: Chergui by Serge Lutens

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Thank you so much bargepole. HRD sounds fantastic!

    Feel free to continue de-lurking - I loved your imagery in your review. More please.
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    bargepole's review - IMO - has to be the best ever written on BN.

  19. #19
    smeller
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    bargepole's review - IMO - has to be the best ever written on BN.
    I don't know if it's the best, but it's certainly a great pleasure to read and carries a lot of truth.

    About Habit Rouge Dry, I remember reading about it some time ago, and it was supposed to be a special edition focused on the top notes, minus the vanillic drydown.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by smeller View Post
    I don't know if it's the best, but it's certainly a great pleasure to read and carries a lot of truth.

    About Habit Rouge Dry, I remember reading about it some time ago, and it was supposed to be a special edition focused on the top notes, minus the vanillic drydown.
    Well, thanks for the compliments.

    I don't know about it being a special edition. At that age your hormones don't do marketing analysis. They do if-I-kiss-Alison-Macfie-she-will-tell-her-father-who-will-call-the-police-but-I'm-going-to-anyway.

    I do remember it was there one moment, gone the next. Not sure what happened in the intervening period. Alison Macfie, possibly.

    I recall vanillins at the base though not as creamy as the "ordinary" HR. Again, I may be confused or just not remembering right. And there was definitely something I'm not remembering clearly. An odd example of synaesthetia: I can very clearly see the *colour* of the note I'm not getting. I just looked it up: Pantone 252.

    Ah well.

    Roja Dove mentioned some years ago that he'd been in Jean-Paul Guerlain's office and M. Guerlain had the Habit Rouge Dry formula open on his desk... we wondered whether he was thinking of reissuing it but, dommage, he didn't. I will find out if Mr. Dove actually managed to get a look at the formula.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    I`ve got a full bottle of Habit Rouge Dry Eau de Cologne.
    Bought it from famous Jaime L. shop unopened (aluminium seal was broken by me).
    Used it once or twice and remember it as pale cologne compared to HR in every stage (citrus, powder, vanilla).
    Maybe I should resniff it to make a post.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    What a great post and an even better read bargepole.
    As a sucker for HR without constraint I would very much like to smell HRD, especially for that rebellic, "unshaved" aspect.

  23. #23
    Mr. G's Avatar
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Same experience here. Rather pale, a sort of dusty all-citrus cologne. It would be deemed very dull if it was launched today.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by bargepole View Post
    ...Roja Dove mentioned some years ago that he'd been in Jean-Paul Guerlain's office and M. Guerlain had the Habit Rouge Dry formula open on his desk... we wondered whether he was thinking of reissuing it but, dommage, he didn't. I will find out if Mr. Dove actually managed to get a look at the formula.
    Maybe JPG was reviewing it, when he was formulating the parfum/extrait version of Habit Rouge? One of my favorite versions, albeit a little out of my price range.
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  25. #25

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Just in case anyone's interested - I bought this on ebay around 18 months ago. It is a bottle which was used to refill tester bottles on Guerlain counters. It was full when purchased and I've decanted it into a small atomiser. I've used it very sparingly on a handful of occasions - it is indeed much drier (dustier?) than the current Habit Rouge. It has a brief civet note which only lasts a matter of minutes then quickly dries down into a citrussy, dusty scent which is still obviously Habit Rouge but different enough to be interesting. It is softer and more powdery than the modern formulation and has a lovely 'vintage' feel - I'd be interested if anyone knows roughly (or accurately!) when this was likely to have been produced.

    Anyway, here's the pics:






  26. #26

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Derbyman View Post
    Just in case anyone's interested - I bought this on ebay around 18 months ago. It is a bottle which was used to refill tester bottles on Guerlain counters. It was full when purchased and I've decanted it into a small atomiser. I've used it very sparingly on a handful of occasions - it is indeed much drier (dustier?) than the current Habit Rouge. It has a brief civet note which only lasts a matter of minutes then quickly dries down into a citrussy, dusty scent which is still obviously Habit Rouge but different enough to be interesting. It is softer and more powdery than the modern formulation and has a lovely 'vintage' feel - I'd be interested if anyone knows roughly (or accurately!) when this was likely to have been produced.
    Dustier sounds interesting!
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Thank you for your comments (and pictures) Derbyman. Fascinating! I'm super jealous, of course.

    I'd assume that the bottle was from the mid-sixties, when Habit Rouge was originally released.
    Currently wearing: Diorella by Christian Dior

  28. #28

    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post
    Same experience here. Rather pale, a sort of dusty all-citrus cologne. It would be deemed very dull if it was launched today.
    Distance lends enchantment to the view... everything of course is infinitely more vivid when encountered for the first time. It's tempting to get hold of a little decant of the stuff but also tempting fate. Alas.

    That's an interesting bottle, too. Not, I think, what it was sold in; I imagine they refilled it from a vast Winchester bottle (oh the envy!) and it must have been cloaked in some fancy outer sleeve.

    Its first outing was 1967. I'm on a bottle of the original formulation (non-Dry) at the moment and it's pretty extraordinary stuff...

    Off to write a long piece on perfume and memory now, heavy on the HR Dry. I'll post the link when it's published.

  29. #29
    Luis
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    I had a bottle of it once - must have been in the 1970s. I didn't like the normal HR then, found it much too sweet. Somehow I didn't get along with HR Dry either, found it rather incompatible with my skin, I think, but didn't know much about scents then. I quickly switched to Vétiver afterwards which accompanied me until they reformulated it.

    HR Dry has long been discontinued.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Habit Rouge Dry by Guerlain

    Just tried it not too logn ago. Is it worth the effort or money? Probably only to a Habit Rouge enthusiast who owns/tried every single flanker/release. How does it smell? The best way I could describe it is somewhat of a cross between Habit Rouge EDC and Jicky.




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