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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    All the cool stuff happens in New York!

    Got this information from the Glass Petal Smoke blog:

    Oakmoss (Evernia prunastri) is a natural lichen which has a very lovely, smooth, and slightly musty odor. Highly sought after as an ingredient in perfumes in the nineteenth century, the use of natural oakmoss declined after 1898, when a single part of its odor profile, Evernyl, was isolated and synthesized for the first time and became an ingredient in a range of famous 1920s perfumes and, via the vagaries of cold war fashion, 1970s men's colognes.

    Oakmoss itself is no longer easily available in commercial quantities. It grows chiefly in old stands of oaks, moldering slowly in very still groves. It has been close to unobtainable since 1986, as many of the best remaining natural sources are deep in the Ukraine, around a small town called Chernobyl.

    Evernyl, for its part, remains a staple of the flavor and fragrance industry. Also known as Mousse Metra, Veramoss, or more rigorously, methyl 2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate, the scent of Evernyl was described in Stephan Jellinek's classic technical text Perfumery: Practice and Principles with a single, oddly untechnical word: "dusty". He elsewhere classifies it as erogenic, in accordance with his unusual application of Freudian theory to the sense of smell.

    For her installation at Cabinet, Nadia Wagner will be bombing the building with Evernyl, a scent that is much stranger and more persistent than the landlord has been led to expect.

    In her artist talk preceding the opening, Wagner will be presenting and explaining a library of ninety scents, some attractive—such as Cis-3-Hexanol, the smell of fresh cut grass—and some less attractive, such as Skatole, the smell of feces, and Costus, the smell of dirty hair.


    Date: July 18—August 8, 2009

    Location: 300 Nevins Street, Brooklyn

    NY Gallery Hours: Tuesday to Saturday*, 12-6 pm, & by appt.

    Opening Reception: Saturday, July 18, 6-8 *pm

    Artist Talk: Saturday, July 18, 5-6 pm
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 15th July 2009 at 08:15 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It has been close to unobtainable since 1986, as many of the best remaining natural sources are deep in the Ukraine, around a small town called Chernobyl.
    Maybe there is something to those oakmoss restrictions, after all...

  3. #3
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Ruh Roh..

  4. #4

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    I got an invite to this and I'm so pissed off as I'm not in town this weekend!

  5. #5

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Wow. I would love to see/smell this.
    All the cool stuff indeed *pouts*

  6. #6

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Thanks for the heads up, Mike.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution
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    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I got an invite to this and I'm so pissed off as I'm not in town this weekend!
    Oh that's right. Bad timing, eh?

  8. #8

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Thanks for this note, mike. I'm fascinated by oakmoss so anything associated with it is interesting. Wish I was there, I'd certainly go.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  9. #9

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Yay! Thanks for letting everyone know, I'm going saturday maybe.
    Last edited by artemesia; 16th July 2009 at 02:57 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Could those who go kindly post a bit of a report??? The rest of us would appreciate it.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  11. #11

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    I went today and was really excited to learn more about this great staple in perfumery. They didn't really mention that this exhibit was an invisible one. A wall was installed and "painted" with evernyl. That was pretty much the exhibit. I was hoping to learn more about the upcoming restrictions being put on oakmoss in the EU, however when I brought that up he had no idea what I was talking about. He kept insisting that natural oakmoss is no longer available however that is not the case, in fact I have a bottle of an oakmoss absolute from liberty naturals on my desk. I was interesting to smell some of the aroma chemicals like scatol, which doesn't really smell like feces and costus that smells more pleasant then it does unwashed hair. I can't complain too much however because it gave me an excuse to visit the CB I Hate Perfume gallery in brooklyn while I was already there. Did anyone else take the time to stop by? Were you as underwhelmed as I was?

  12. #12

    Default Re: The smell of oakmoss - an exhibition in Brooklyn

    Boy, that REALLY sounds like an underwhelming (and excessively minimalist) exhibit.
    I always struggle when so-called "experts" tell me things that are patently wrong.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

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