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  1. #1

    Default What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I am on the fence about sampling since I am not a fan of strong perfume.
    So, in your opinion, is Serge Lutens suitable for everyday wear(Think office)? When can you see yourself wearing one?
    And I do not like words "sumptous,rich,complex". Practicality is key.
    Thanks for input.

    Please also name one of your favorites and one to avoid.
    Last edited by CDG; 1st August 2009 at 12:05 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    The search function brings up a few of these threads as this has been discussed before, these may be helpful for you:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=221739
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=216837
    Last edited by BrothaG; 1st August 2009 at 12:10 PM.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    From the preferences you state it is not a line that should be first in your thoughts. You sound more like a candidate for L'Artisan or the lighter Malles or Creeds. Lutens is built around orientalism and you will generally get very strong, frequently sweet-syrupy fragrances. If you still want to try some of these, I'd suggest Encens et Lavande, Chene, Gris Clair, perhaps Douce Amère.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Thanks for the links!

    I find L'artisan a little too light, I am exploring Malle.

  5. #5

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Yes, some of Serge Lutens' offerings are suitable for everyday wear. The scents are strong, but they're not exactly sillage monsters so they won't invade other coworker's "air space." They don't really score well on practicality though, but they probably weren't meant to be anyway.

    Chergui IS heavy, sweet, rich, and sumptuous -- but you should try that first to get an idea of what SL is about. As for the lighter Lutens, you should try Gris Clair, Douce Amere, and Five o'Clock au Gingembre. For now, avoid Rousse, Miel de Bois, the other scents with "Bois" in the name, Santal Blanc, Arabie, Serge Noire, Datura Noir, Louve, Sa Majeste La Rose, A la Nuit, and the rest of the scents with "Fleur" in the name.

    I initially turned down SL because of its heavy and syrupiness when I started out sampling niche, but now it's one of my fave houses as I quickly got bored of light and unsatisfying scents pretty quickly. (I still appreciate Giacobetti and JCE's "transparent" works though) Anyways, you should give it a few tries.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    From the preferences you state it is not a line that should be first in your thoughts. You sound more like a candidate for L'Artisan or the lighter Malles or Creeds. Lutens is built around orientalism and you will generally get very strong, frequently sweet-syrupy fragrances. If you still want to try some of these, I'd suggest Encens et Lavande, Chene, Gris Clair, perhaps Douce Amère.
    I agree with t_g_l's opinion.

    Based solely on what i own or have owned, you may also want to try Daim Blond (which i wear to the office). Cergui may represent a boundary of sorts for you.

    Steer clear of Ambre Sultan, Datura Noir, Un Bois Vanille and Arabie, if you dont like 'em strong.
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    From the preferences you state it is not a line that should be first in your thoughts.
    Agreed
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  8. #8

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I'm not a huge fan of SL. His stuff is generally not my style. That said, the three I like, I like a great deal - Gris Clair, MKK, and Fumerie Turque. I don't think any of them could be called "office wear," though. Maybe Gris Clair. I also agree with others, that from what you said, you could probably safely avoid this house for now.
    Last edited by Tonyprince; 1st August 2009 at 12:38 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I don't think you will likely have success with the Lutens line. There may be exceptions, but nothing obvious based on your preferences.

  10. #10

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Agree with most of the above. Serge Lutens is a line with lush, thick, syrupy orientals. Not for everyone. Reminds me of my grandmother's asian wooden medicine cabinet.
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  11. #11

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    ...when we wear a scent with full knowledge of it's background, we automatically have some pre-conceived notions about it and don't judge it fairly...you should smell Lutens on others to make a judgement on how it actually smells to "you"..

    i agree, they dont make a silver mountain water etal...but of what they do release, it does make an incredible impression and is well suited for daily wears... To start of with, try Chergui, Ambre sultan, Serge Noir, Musc Kublai Khan, Daim blond...
    Last edited by jenson; 1st August 2009 at 02:04 PM.

  12. #12

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    As to the fascination, I think it lies in the complexity of many of the scents.

    Complexity does not make a fragrance less wearable or less practical to me.

  13. #13

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I'm seriously considering blind-buying Gris Clair myself, actually. Does it have that same sort of austere dryness that opens Narciso Rodriguez For Him?
    Last edited by Hide & Reason; 1st August 2009 at 02:11 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I think all the SL 'outrageous exoticism' is looking kind of reactionary these days. Compared to fragrances like Le Male, A*Men an PI, Serge is the voice of discretion. I agree with those that have suggested you try Chergui, but I'd also give Ambre Sultan a try. His range is certainly very androgynous, there isn't one that is designated a true masculine. I'd say Chergui, Vetiver Oriental, Gris Clair and Muscs Koublaï Khän are the closest things Serge has done to true masculines.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 1st August 2009 at 02:26 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hide & Reason View Post
    I'm seriously considering blind-buying Gris Clair myself, actually. Does it have that same sort of austere dryness that opens Narciso Rodriguez For Him?
    I don't own NR, but I don't recall the opening being similar to Gris Clair. Putting aside the obvious advice against blind buys (advice I do agree with, esp. about something this expensive), I do think that Gris Clair would be a good addition to your wardrobe and I suspect you'll probably like it given what you currently own. Nothing you own smells like Gris Clair, but the sensibility I see in your choices seems compatible with GC if that makes any sense at all.

  16. #16

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I think it is mostly in the application, for me at least.
    Ambre Sultan, one spray is plenty to have a lovely experience. On a cold winter day, three sprays will keep you warm and toasty feeling.
    One or two spritz of Louve and you are fine three or more and you smell like Robitussin cherry flavor.
    I have worn some with one spritz and been elated, wore a few too many spritzes and suffered headache and nausea.
    You really need to try them to fully understand them. Many of the early scent were crafted around a cedar note, much like Dior Dolce Vita, so they are quite wearable. But do explore first.
    I feel Serge offers something for everyone, maybe you should try Féminité du Bois, now that is very wearable.
    Good luck
    Last edited by Brielle87; 1st August 2009 at 02:49 PM.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Agreed. Gris Clair is really very nice and easy to wear. The suggestions others have offered are fantastic as well, especially Ambre Sultan. I'm just starting to seriously consider more Serge Lutens fragrances, as years ago I found them quite challenging.

    What's so fascinating for me is that these are complex fragrances with a lot going on in them. They are high quality and unique - I don't recall ever smelling a SL fragrance that was utterly boring or could be easily confused with a mainstream/designer.

    Another aspect, purely aesthetic, is the bell jars are really alluring and look very nice in a collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyprince View Post
    I don't own NR, but I don't recall the opening being similar to Gris Clair. Putting aside the obvious advice against blind buys (advice I do agree with, esp. about something this expensive), I do think that Gris Clair would be a good addition to your wardrobe and I suspect you'll probably like it given what you currently own. Nothing you own smells like Gris Clair, but the sensibility I see in your choices seems compatible with GC if that makes any sense at all.

  18. #18

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Ta for the feedback, guys. Another question: how similar is Miel de Bois to L'Artisan's Bois Farine? I've so often heard of Miel as the dunce of the SL line.

  19. #19

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Miel de Bois is really difficult, in my opinion.. honey wood! I can't get my head around it as hard as I try. Bois Farine, on the other hand, is quite nice - gourmand, sandalwood.. I'm not sure I can draw any parallels between the two.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hide & Reason View Post
    Ta for the feedback, guys. Another question: how similar is Miel de Bois to L'Artisan's Bois Farine? I've so often heard of Miel as the dunce of the SL line.

  20. #20

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post
    Miel de Bois is really difficult, in my opinion.. honey wood! I can't get my head around it as hard as I try. Bois Farine, on the other hand, is quite nice - gourmand, sandalwood.. I'm not sure I can draw any parallels between the two.
    Yeah, I don't see any parallels between the two, either. I actually like Miel de Bois fine, but it's too sweet for me to wear. I also like Bois Farine alright, but I think it smells like a combination of Body Kouros and flour, and I already own Body Kouros and the flour note doesn't do much for me.

  21. #21

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Hmm, I might give Bois Farine another chance.. I don't remember it having a flour note. My only beef was the sillage was nil, as is such with just about every L'Artisan on my skin

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyprince View Post
    Yeah, I don't see any parallels between the two, either. I actually like Miel de Bois fine, but it's too sweet for me to wear. I also like Bois Farine alright, but I think it smells like a combination of Body Kouros and flour, and I already own Body Kouros and the flour note doesn't do much for me.

  22. #22

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    This line is famous for not having a big "practicality" . Lets put it this way: you don't eat syrup everyday, right? you dont wanna smell like syrup everyday either
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Another vote for Gris Clair and Ambre Sultan. They are worth to sample and are pretty easy to wear IMO. But my personal fave has to be Cedre.

  24. #24

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    The only one I liked so far enough to possibly purchase but still on the fence and I feel can be worn on a daily basis to the office would be Vetiver Oriental, but I have not tried the entire line. I tried Arabie other day oh man I had to scrub that one
    Last edited by denec; 1st August 2009 at 04:44 PM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Douce Amere is probably the safest to try if you are new to the line.

  26. #26

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    No one's mentioned Iris Silver Mist , yet? Easily the softest SL of all I've tried.
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  27. #27

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyDG View Post
    Hmm, I might give Bois Farine another chance.. I don't remember it having a flour note. My only beef was the sillage was nil, as is such with just about every L'Artisan on my skin
    Bois = wood
    Farine = flour
    To me BF definitely has a baked bread note.

  28. #28

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Stereotomy View Post
    Agree with most of the above. Serge Lutens is a line with lush, thick, syrupy orientals. Not for everyone. Reminds me of my grandmother's asian wooden medicine cabinet.
    hahaha...I was thinking about Serge Lutens, but not anymore after this. I don't want people to look at me as a moving medicine cabinet. Gosh!!!

  29. #29

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    The facination is that the Serge Lutens are uncompromising hardcore thick orientals that defy everything that modern, clean, and unoffensive scents stand for. I always get a badass impression whenever I sample one of these lol.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentsitivity View Post
    As to the fascination, I think it lies in the complexity of many of the scents.

    Complexity does not make a fragrance less wearable or less practical to me.
    Hear hear, I mean, I can dig it.

    There are a lot of choices here. I wouldn't dismiss the whole line w/o even trying them (personally).
    Vetiver Oriental is smooth & green, one of my favorites.
    all the others are just a matter of taste. If you don't like incense, you won't like Ambre Sultan. If you're not into leather, you won't like Arabie, etc. But these are all the best of what you are looking for, if that's what you want.
    The Rose? spectacular. Woods? great. Complex juicy Violette? none better. Just do the research & see if there is anything you like. Don't try the sweet ones if you don't like sweet things.

  31. #31
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pug911 View Post
    hahaha...I was thinking about Serge Lutens, but not anymore after this. I don't want people to look at me as a moving medicine cabinet. Gosh!!!
    Pug911, IMHO, it is a mistake to totally forgo Lutens without giving the range a good sampling. Sure not all their fragrances are as wearable as the contemporary generic offerings, but sometimes its a nice experience to wear something that smells a little different and that smells really lovely to your nose at the same time. I'm from Asia and so far none of the Lutens i've tried and bought smell anything like medicine cabinets
    Last edited by MFJ; 1st August 2009 at 07:23 PM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by CDG View Post
    I am on the fence about sampling since I am not a fan of strong perfume.
    So, in your opinion, is Serge Lutens suitable for everyday wear(Think office)? When can you see yourself wearing one?
    And I do not like words "sumptous,rich,complex". Practicality is key.
    Thanks for input.

    Please also name one of your favorites and one to avoid.
    "Practicality" is not in Mr. Serge Lutens vocabulary although there are some which aren't the 'sumptous, rich, complex' type such as Iris Silver Mist and Encens et Lavande (both are good) but usually the results aren't encouraging when Lutens is not drumming the decadent honey-indian-spice rack drum...see the artificial Fleurs dOranger or the banal Fleurs de Citronnier (sp?). 'Complex' is not also a word that I would use to describe the typical Lutens...they are 'deceptively' complex but don't conform to the three-tier perfume pyramid much. Most of the perfume structure focuses on the basenotes (tier three) with very little complexity (if any) in the top two...overloading on base notes and using heady and heavy notes which burn off over time gives and impression of density and complexity. I would say Eau Sauvage is technically more complex than any in this line. Or if you prefer a heavy hitter, the Kouros structure is another.

    To me the unrelenting spicy-oriental-resiny accord that Lutens brought to the forefront in the early 1990s has run its course...maybe its a trapping of a 'niche' focus, but out of all the big niche houses (L'Artisan, Creed, Malle, MPG), Lutens is the one which most badly needs of a shot of rejuvenation.

    But that shouldn't discourage you from atleast sampling the line - theres still a lot to explore! The line does contain some fragrances which show case a top quality note. I would demarcate the line as follows:

    Attack of the Lutens/Winnie the Poohs wardrobe :
    Arabie (warning!)
    Rahat Lakhoum (the name speaks for itself)
    Chergui (excellent hay note amidst a tornado of honey)
    Cuir Mauresque (Tabac Blond dipped in honey)
    Fumerie Turque (a good pipe tobacco note dipped in honey)

    Middle ground:
    Ambre Sultan ... a Lutens for those who can't stand Lutens. I don't consider this to be an amber powerhouse, but it displays enough of the standard Lutens facets without getting on nerves.

    Practicality (yes you can have a practical Lutens wardrobe!) :
    Encens et Lavander (just good friends)
    Iris Silver Mist (stark iris)
    Muscs Koublai Khan (quality animalic musk)
    Sa Majeste La Rose (not enough honey for Pooh, but good rose!)
    Vetiver Oriental (green creamy vetiver)

    I don't care much for the Bois series.

    That should get you going for now!
    Last edited by zztopp; 1st August 2009 at 07:21 PM.
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  33. #33

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by matthewfoo View Post
    Pug911, IMHO, it is a mistake to totally forgo Lutens without giving the range a good sampling. Sure not all their fragrances are as wearable as the contemporary generic offerings, but sometimes its a nice experience to wear something that smells a little different and that smells really lovely to your nose at the same time. I'm from Asia and so far non of the Lutens i've tried and bought smell anything like medicine cabinets
    Thank you, Matthew. I am going back to Vegas tomorrow, with a stop at Laughlin first. I will have 4-5 days to test them all. I wonder who carries all the Lutens line, and Guerlain...? I have just recently made a purchase for Patou Pour Homme, Patou Pour Homme Prive and Guerlain's original Vetiver. Can't wait to get them. My next on the list will be (or at least to have a sniff) are Bois d'Armenie and Derby original, if I can find it.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pug911 View Post
    Thank you, Matthew. I am going back to Vegas tomorrow, with a stop at Laughlin first. I will have 4-5 days to test them all. I wonder who carries all the Lutens line, and Guerlain...? I have just recently made a purchase for Patou Pour Homme, Patou Pour Homme Prive and Guerlain's original Vetiver. Can't wait to get them. My next on the list will be (or at least to have a sniff) are Bois d'Armenie and Derby original, if I can find it.
    You're most welcome! Congrats on those new purchases, they are great ones. Lucky you that you have access to a Guerlain boutique, and it must be fun scent shopping in Vegas, the last time I was there I was a kid, and I didn't care too much about fragrance then. Have fun and make sure to report back on your new acquisitions
    Last edited by MFJ; 1st August 2009 at 07:33 PM.

  35. #35

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Surely will, Matt ;-)

  36. #36

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Interesting - I should have known farine actually meant "flour", seeing as how I took 11 years of French!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Bois = wood
    Farine = flour
    To me BF definitely has a baked bread note.

  37. #37

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    In the winter time when I taught high school, I wore a dab of Ambre Sultan at each corner of my neck. One of my students, a female, came up to me and said, "Mr. Texican, you smell pretty good today!"

    Maybe not exactly what you would want, but I think any fragrance can be suitable for the workplace if you know not to drench it on you.
    "If a perfume stinks, it's a disaster when she turns off the light." - Jean-Paul Guerlain

  38. #38

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    ZZ - What do you think of Gris Clair and where does it fit in your 3 categories?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    "Practicality" is not in Mr. Serge Lutens vocabulary although there are some which aren't the 'sumptous, rich, complex' type such as Iris Silver Mist and Encens et Lavande (both are good) but usually the results aren't encouraging when Lutens is not drumming the decadent honey-indian-spice rack drum...see the artificial Fleurs dOranger or the banal Fleurs de Citronnier (sp?). 'Complex' is not also a word that I would use to describe the typical Lutens...they are 'deceptively' complex but don't conform to the three-tier perfume pyramid much. Most of the perfume structure focuses on the basenotes (tier three) with very little complexity (if any) in the top two...overloading on base notes and using heady and heavy notes which burn off over time gives and impression of density and complexity. I would say Eau Sauvage is technically more complex than any in this line. Or if you prefer a heavy hitter, the Kouros structure is another.

    To me the unrelenting spicy-oriental-resiny accord that Lutens brought to the forefront in the early 1990s has run its course...maybe its a trapping of a 'niche' focus, but out of all the big niche houses (L'Artisan, Creed, Malle, MPG), Lutens is the one which most badly needs of a shot of rejuvenation.

    But that shouldn't discourage you from atleast sampling the line - theres still a lot to explore! The line does contain some fragrances which show case a top quality note. I would demarcate the line as follows:

    Attack of the Lutens/Winnie the Poohs wardrobe :
    Arabie (warning!)
    Rahat Lakhoum (the name speaks for itself)
    Chergui (excellent hay note amidst a tornado of honey)
    Cuir Mauresque (Tabac Blond dipped in honey)
    Fumerie Turque (a good pipe tobacco note dipped in honey)

    Middle ground:
    Ambre Sultan ... a Lutens for those who can't stand Lutens. I don't consider this to be an amber powerhouse, but it displays enough of the standard Lutens facets without getting on nerves.

    Practicality (yes you can have a practical Lutens wardrobe!) :
    Encens et Lavander (just good friends)
    Iris Silver Mist (stark iris)
    Muscs Koublai Khan (quality animalic musk)
    Sa Majeste La Rose (not enough honey for Pooh, but good rose!)
    Vetiver Oriental (green creamy vetiver)

    I don't care much for the Bois series.

    That should get you going for now!

  39. #39

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Most of the perfume structure focuses on the basenotes (tier three) with very little complexity (if any) in the top two...overloading on base notes and using heady and heavy notes which burn off over time gives and impression of density and complexity. I would say Eau Sauvage is technically more complex than any in this line. Or if you prefer a heavy hitter, the Kouros structure is another.
    Orientals have always been about basenotes. The Serge Lutens house is basically a house of oriental fragrances, with some exceptions, of course. He hasn't made less complex orientals, they're actually quite complicated as far as orientals go.
    I do agree, however that his attempts at chypres are often quite bizzare. But I don't agree that his orientals, Ambre Sultan for example, are less complex than Vol de Nuit, Youth Dew or Opium.
    Maybe you just don't like orientals?
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 2nd August 2009 at 02:30 AM.

  40. #40

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Like any house, there are a couple I like and although I admire the rest for their uniqueness and quality of ingredients, I can't wear a great deal of them.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  41. #41

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I find Lutens interesting because the house strikes a balance between being aromatic/quality, smelling somewhat interesting and as well as smelling contemporary.

    I can definetly see myself wearing Fumerie Turque or Chergui everyday in Fall/Winter. Why the heck not, except that the fragrance is expensive and I may want to save it for maybe once in a while or certain occasions. Gris Clair, Daim Blond and Borneo are not "too much" for daily wear in my opinion at all ( as far as smell). Daim Blond to me, is actually quite tame.

    As well, you put Luten's fragrances up against A LOT of other fragrances, and I find them quite easy to wear. A*Men, Joop! Homme....even fragrances like Bogart Witness and Caron 3e Homme ( which is waaay too much for me), all seem to out-do Lutens in terms of potency ( in my opinion). Of course, with Lutens you have to apply the fragrance accordingly.

    And to answer your question, right now Chergui is my favorite Lutens. My least favorite ? Daim Blond seems kinda lackluster to me. If there is one for you ( original poster) to avoid, I would say Ambre Sultan ( not in my mind a daily fragrance).

  42. #42

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by CDG View Post
    I am on the fence about sampling since I am not a fan of strong perfume.
    So, in your opinion, is Serge Lutens suitable for everyday wear(Think office)? When can you see yourself wearing one?
    And I do not like words "sumptous,rich,complex". Practicality is key. ]
    Serge Lutens is not for you - "sumptous,rich,complex" pretty much defines the Lutens line. But if you MUST have a Lutens, try Serge Noire; it's a dry, subtle, spicy incense.

  43. #43

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Orientals have always been about basenotes. The Serge Lutens house is basically a house of oriental fragrances, with some exceptions, of course. He hasn't made less complex orientals, they're actually quite complicated as far as orientals go.
    I do agree, however that his attempts at chypres are often quite bizzare. But I don't agree that his orientals, Ambre Sultan for example, are less complex than Vol de Nuit, Youth Dew or Opium.
    Maybe you just don't like orientals?
    Sure, many orientals are composed of heavy notes which by their nature materialize in the base, but that doesn't mean that there should be little to no presence or structure in the other layers. There are many examples but I will just choose one: Vol de Nuit EDT (vintage). Like many Lutens it has a signature base (in this case the Guerlinade) but on that base rests a complex, shape-shifting, very finely modulated structure which passes through phases of inviting green galbanum and a spicy-floral heart before unraveling into the much loved guerlinade base. By comparison in most Lutens I perceive a tiny, sparse, and (usually) solo note top half stuck to the rich base (which is almost immediately perceptible on application). I do see shades of the Bois series-like variations in these oriental Lutens.

    I don't have a degree or experience in perfume making but these are just my observations based on what I know and can gather from comparisons. On the flip side I also believe its not necessary for a perfume to conform to a 3-tier architecture to be classified as good - if the core linear accord is well constructed and smells good, then it just plain smells good.
    -

  44. #44

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Sure, many orientals are composed of heavy notes which by their nature materialize in the base, but that doesn't mean that there should be little to no presence or structure in the other layers. There are many examples but I will just choose one: Vol de Nuit EDT (vintage). Like many Lutens it has a signature base (in this case the Guerlinade) but on that base rests a complex, shape-shifting, very finely modulated structure which passes through phases of inviting green galbanum and a spicy-floral heart before unraveling into the much loved guerlinade base. By comparison in most Lutens I perceive a tiny, sparse, and (usually) solo note top half stuck to the rich base (which is almost immediately perceptible on application). .
    I really think Chergui is quite the shape-shifter. On any given day, Chergui can go towards tobacco or leather or honey or cherry jam. I own and wear vintage Vol de Nuit extrait, and yes, it is quite a journey on the skin. I understand your critique of Lutens and Sheldarke's creations as being a bit strained at times, but I strongly believe in Chergui, Ambre Sultan and MKK as highly complex creations.

  45. #45

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Sorry I'm late to the party, but as a new SL convert I'd like to add my opinion. CDG, I believe that I was in a similar boat as yourself at the beginning of last year when I was personally beginning my fragrance exploration. The, and now too, I had a preference of lighter, fresher, brighter scents. Early in my fragrance hobby I had the opportunity to visit Aedes in NYC, a mecca of perfumery IMO, and while there I had the pick of the litter with all the SLs and tried only one, Gris Clair. They were billed as rich, decedant, opulent, "perfumey". and for the most part that holds true, at the time however I had ZERO interest in that type of scent. I went up until just about a month ago, with my only experience with SL being that Gris Clair (which isn't a favorite), until I just had the hankering to try them. I was and continue to be consistently blown away by them. Their is such a present quality and opulence that makes smelling/wearing them so unique and rewarding, more so than almost any other line (save for a few Amouge). They are quite simply amazing, and they have enough scents that you might just find something you like. They do have a tendency to be heavy, rich and sweet, but not all of them, and it's nothing that can't be solved with just a lighter touch. I highly recommend anyone new to the hobby to try everything you can get your hands on, regardless of personal preference, and the same holds true for Serge Lutens.

    Personal favorites inclued: Borneo, Vetiver Oriental, Five O'Clock Au Gingembre, Chergui, Ambre Sultan
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

    Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense

  46. #46

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Borneo 1834 is what I'm finding pretty fascinating right about now.

  47. #47

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Vetiver Oriental and Gris Clair are both quite easy to wear, as is Five O'Clock Au Gingembre. None of these are ridiculously sweet or overly rich.

    Ambre Sultan and Borneo are worth a try, too.

    I love Serge Lutens.

  48. #48

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Interesting that so many men think of SL frags as "sticky sweet..." among the female frags, I find them to be refreshingly NOT sweet! I get a lot of wood and spice in almost every SL fragrance, and, as those are some of my favorite notes, I find myself drawn to all the house's offerings as a result!


    My favorite for both sexes? Cedre. Mmmm.
    Do you think "Old Lady Perfume" is a compliment? Join the Scent of an Old Woman Social Group and chat in-depth about vintage and classic fragrances!


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  49. #49

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by YouCanCallMeMo View Post
    Interesting that so many men think of SL frags as "sticky sweet..." among the female frags, I find them to be refreshingly NOT sweet! I get a lot of wood and spice in almost every SL fragrance, and, as those are some of my favorite notes, I find myself drawn to all the house's offerings as a result!

    My favorite for both sexes? Cedre. Mmmm.
    Good for you Mo .... wood on a woman - mmmmmm.
    Apologies, it was just too cheesy for me pass.

    How would you rate SL Cedre against 06130 Cedre ? I'm about to make a purchase & would appreciate the help.

  50. #50
    Dependent

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    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by SoGent View Post
    Good for you Mo .... wood on a woman - mmmmmm.
    Apologies, it was just too cheesy for me pass.

    How would you rate SL Cedre against 06130 Cedre ? I'm about to make a purchase & would appreciate the help.

    Not to interrupt, but Cedre smells dominantly of tuberose. I don't detect much "cedre" from it. It happens to be my fave SL btw.

  51. #51

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    Quote Originally Posted by matthewfoo View Post
    Not to interrupt, but Cedre smells dominantly of tuberose. I don't detect much "cedre" from it. It happens to be my fave SL btw.
    No problem Matt .... jump right in.
    I hadn't delved into SL's Cedre much but was sorta hooked by Borneo and thought I should check into it. Thanks

  52. #52

    Default Re: What's so fascinating about Serge Lutens?

    I haven't tried any fragrance, Serge Lutens or otherwise, that isn't suitable for every day wear. Even the feared Musc Kublai Khan is fine for every day use IMO, but I guess I'm weird like that...

    Chergui and the aforementioned MKK are my favorite Lutens offerings

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