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  1. #1
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Leather & incense are two categories of fragrance that I have little experience with, or at least very little success in finding a fave. Can you please let me know your favorite leather and your favorite incense...this will help me decide where to start some serious sampling. THanks!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    My favorite leather is Estee Lauder Azuree with Robert Piguet Bandit a very close second. Azuree edges out Bandit becuase of it's burnt sugar aspect which sweetens the dry leather notes and makes them easier to stomach. I love Bandit, but I have to be in the mood for it.

    As for incense, it's a toss up between Donna Karan Chaos and Etro Messe de Minuit. Chaos is sweeter and less edgy than Messe de Minuit, which smells like Christmas Eve at the Roman Catholic church which I attended as a child.
    “Auntie Mame [is] a froth of whipped cream and champagne and daydreams and Nuit de Noël perfume. She's not mortal at all.”- Patrick Dennis

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    My favorite leather is Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire -- very elegant and "lady-like"; SL Daim Blond and Cuir de Lancome are worth sampling too (Lancome is probably the second favorite, then SL).

    Incense -- too many to mention, but Incense Rose by Tauer is very good (I don't get any rose, just incense - ? Maybe I need to retest it). CdG Ouarzazate and Armani Prive Bois d'Encens are both excellent too. Neither of the three are "churchy" (iykwim).
    For sale: Armani Prive (Cuir, Jade), Yves Rocher, Artisan Ambre body cream http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=228894

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Leather

    Expensive: Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford and/or Aoud Leather by Montale

    Affordable: Cabochard by Gres and/or Tabac Blond by Caron

    Incense

    Expensive: Jubilation XXV by Amouage (I think you already like Serge Noire, right ubu?)

    Affordable: Avignon by Comme des Garcons

    Yes, Duchaufour did both.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    My favorite "pure" leather fragrance is Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman. It's so rich and round, and yet bold and leathery, with a faint floral touch of iris, violet, and rose touch hidden subtly in the drydown. I wear it infrequently but it's a clear favorite.

    My favorite fragrance with a leather note is Serge Lutens' Rose de Nuit, a wonderfully dark - yes, the "nuit" is present here - and old fashioned leather chypre. Unlike Bandit, which always just smelled sour to me, the leather in this is rich and heavy, with civet, castoreum, rose and moss making this all about the basenotes. I go on about this fragrance far too much on these boards, but I can't help it - I'm in love!

    Other favorite leathers are Parfumerie Generale's Cuir D'Iris, an earthy, rough-edged leather with iris and vanilla, and L'Artisan's Dzing, which smells delightfully like candyfloss and an animalic "something" if applied lightly, and unfortunately like an incontinent biker if applied heavily. Tauer's Lonestar Memories is horrific smelling, but in a fascinating way, like Guernica meets BBQ. Since I know you like jasmine, give Parfumerie Generale's Psychotrope a try; it's a cool, almost "polished" leather with a very mellow, Sarrasins-esque jasmine.

    Incense is a problem category for me, too, so I won't give too much advice there. If you like patchouli, Messe de Minuit is awesome through the top and heart before drying down to a solid patchouli base.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Oh, and if you can make it through the abrasive, unpleasant, medical-smelling top notes, Montale's Aoud Cuir D'Arabie is an oud-rose-leather combo overflowing with personality.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Although not pure incense, I get a distinct incense vibe in Chanel Sycomore (Les Exclusifs). It's worth sampling!
    For sale: Armani Prive (Cuir, Jade), Yves Rocher, Artisan Ambre body cream http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=228894

  8. #8

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Favorite leather is definitely Cuir de Russie by Chanel and I saw that Serge Noire by SL is part of the encense so that one would be my favorite of this category

  9. #9
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    I'm already compiling my list...the plan is to start this leather & incense quest during the basenotes worldwide meet up in about 2 more weeks. Being in Chicago will afford me a grand opportunity to do some mass sampling! :bounce:I'll also be able to hear direct input from my fellow basenoters :wave:so Quarry, get ready to throw your two cents at me!!!

    mikeperez - yep, I sure do like Serge Noire! To be honest, I don't enjoy it in the heat of summer...but it's great during the winter months. It also smells divine on my hubby, truth be told, he wears it more than me ! For my nose, it is more woods than incense...but maybe that's because I'm not well versed in that genre'. Do you rec. any CDG's for incense?

    Galamb_Borong - Bandit smells sour to me as well . I've noticed in your posts that we share some similar perceptions so I'll be taking extra careful notes on your suggestions !

    kess, I will most definitely sample Sycomore...it's already on my list!

    Please add more ideas for me, and thanks again you guys!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Besides what has already been mentioned:

    Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche and Encens Flamboyant - incense
    CDG Kyoto, Jailsamer, Zagorsk, Quarzazate - incense
    Serge Lutens Daim Blond - leather
    Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur - leather
    Cuir Lancome - leather
    Last edited by petruccijc; 11th August 2009 at 05:23 PM.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Wow - with all the sampling and reviewing you've done, I was surprised to find so few leathers and incense fragrances on your wardrobe's "Tried" list!

    Here are a few of my favorite leathers:
    Chanel Cuir de Russie (Rich, floral-animalic leather. Possibly my "desert island" selection.)
    Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur (Refined vetiver and leather.)
    Oud Cuir d'Arabie (Outrageous biker leather.)
    Eau d'Hermès (Animalic citrus-cumin leather.)
    Onda (Weird, intense, spicy leather.)

    My wife also enjoys Cuir Beluga, which is a very sweet vanilla with a "barely there" suede note in the foundation.

    Among incense fragrances, I second Comme des Garçons Avignon, and add the following:
    CdG Kyoto (Sheer, dry, ashen incense.)
    CdG Jaisalmer (Sweet, spicy-camphoraceous incense.)
    Dzongkha (Perhaps my favorite. Smoky, mysterious, otherworldly.)
    Paestum Rose (Rose and frankincnese.)

    Oh, and let's not forget L'Air du Desert Marocain, though the incense is buried rather deeply under those sands...

    Happy hunting!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Leather:
    Knize Ten (floral vanillic leather) - Top: Petitgrain, Orange, Rosemary, Bergamot, Lemon. Heart: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Geranium, Iris, Rose, Carnation, Cinnamon. Base: Leather, Ambergris, Musk, Moss, Vanilla, Castoreum.
    Cuir de Russie (floral leather) - The composition starts with aldehydes moderated by mild nectar of classical trio – rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang. The ending comes as smoky, animalistic note of dark leather. The main notes are: orange blossom, bergamot, mandarin, sage, iris, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, cedarwood, vetiver, styrax, leather, amber and vanilla.
    Cuir Mauresque (fruity, spicy leather)
    Tabac Blond (carnation smokey leather)

    Incense:
    Kyoto
    Ouarzazate
    Dzonghka
    Last edited by anais; 11th August 2009 at 06:41 PM.
    ~ Anais ~

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Ubu~ When you have your list compiled, Make Sure you have a look at my wardrobe for anything else you'd like to try. Incense and/or leather frags I have are:

    AP Cuir Amethyste
    Guerlain Bd'A
    DK Black Cashmere
    DK Chaos (new)
    Hotel Costes
    Tabac Blond (extrait)
    YSL Nu

    I've been making a sniffing list in anticipation of the Meet-Up too!
    Eddie: Sweetie, what are you drinking?
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Of the CDG Incense Series I've tried so far, Avignon is my favorite. The best frankincense I've smelled, but I think you have to really like frankincense to want to wear it often.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vibert View Post
    Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur (Refined vetiver and leather.)
    Oh! I really like this one. It doesn't smell very leathery to me, though; I smell mimosa and violet leading into a rather earthy smell, like forest dirt ( probably the vetiver ).

  15. #15

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Thing with leather and incense is, many are positively riveting and uniquely interesting - but wearable (to me, ymmv) not so much. I love incenses, but don't really wear leathers, although I do really enjoy a select few.
    Cuir Ottoman - feminine leaning leather, or suede, actually.
    Dzing! is my other fav leather, very horse-y.
    Cuir de Lancôme is not my favourite, but it would give you a fair idea of a "pure" leather note.
    I also get a bit of leather from Chergui.

    In incenses, you *have* to start with the CdG series.
    Avignon is breathtakingly realistic church incense -and as such, not for wearing for me- but oh boy, gawjuss. Ouarzazate, otoh, is incense-y *and* incredibly wearable, most wearable out of all the CdG's, i think.
    L'Air du Désert Marocain
    - bone dry spices and incense. Magical.
    Profumum Olibanum - smooth incense resin, not the burnt stuff. Absolutely lovely and wearable, sadly waaay expensive. According to some, it's very similar to one of the Durbano's. Dimitri will probably know which I mean.
    Encens Flamboyant - bit musty, bit tame to me. Still wearable.
    Armani Privé Bois d'Encens - quite aggressive, sharp and cedary. Definitely a businesslike frag.
    Tourmalin Noir - campfire in which someone chucked a few incense sticks. Very smoky, very bold, very nice.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Sensual leather : Serge Lutens Chergui
    Edgy [erotic] Leather : Ava Luxe Film Noir

    High End Incense : Amouage Jubilation XXV, Dia Man [can be worn by females too as it has a floral top and heart]
    Stone Cold Incense : Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline
    Carnal Sensual Incense : Parfumerie Generale L'Ombre Fauve [Some would contend it's the Animalic Musk and Amber lending this PG the carnal facets, but the incense adds up, noticeably]


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  17. #17

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Those are also two of my favorites notes!

    My favorite incense frags are:
    Encens Flamboyant Parfum: the parfum is so much richer and deeper than the EDP and is longer lasting not to mention its sillage (unusual for a parfum)
    L'air de Desert Marocain: when I first sampled this, it was pure amber with a hint of frankincense. But when I wore it, it was vice-versa. Makes my knees shake everytime I smell it.
    Bois d'Encens: I bought this when it first came out and it was my first incense frag. This is pure frankincense, and nothing else (to me anyway). Although I have to be in the mood to wear this one.

    My favorite leather frags are:
    Tabac Blond EDP and Parfum: I bought this as a blind buy and at first I didn't really like it. Nowadays, I can't wait to complete my frag rotation just to wear it! And 1* my ass Turin!!!
    Cuir de Russie Parfum: I love that the parfum has an intense barnyard note and really conjures up the image of a worn Hermes horse saddle The EDT smells like aldehydes to me and nothing more...
    Cuir d'Iris: I was on a leather quest last year, and I wanted a frag that smells exactly like leather. Most leather frags are just illusions of leather, but this was pure, unadultered leather!
    Cuir Ottoman: I find this close to Cuir d'Iris but with a more suede feel to it and a subtle jasmine note. Much more feminine that Cd'I.
    Tuscan Leather: as I smell this on more and more people, it's becoming somewhat of a cliche, but I love it nonetheless. My friend thinks it smells like the inside of a Birkin. I don't get that BTW.
    Last edited by scent; 11th August 2009 at 07:47 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Comme des Garcons have a fabulous selection of incense frags:
    *Incense series (Avignon, Jaisalmer, Kyoto, Ouarzazate & Zagorsk), 888 88, *Cdg 2, ...these are either incense heavy or revolve purely around incense
    I think it's easier to go by companies
    Other (from heaviest to weakest - I'm following a list a friend of mine made on her blog):
    Norma Kamali Incense
    *Cardinal Heeley
    Andy Tauer - Incense Rose and *Incense Extreme
    Oliver Durbano - Black Tourmaline*, Rock Crystal*
    *Armani Privee Bois d'Encens
    *Diptyque l'Eau Trois
    *Josef Statkus (can be lovely or smell like cat urine - I get the latter unfortunately)
    *Demeter Holy Smoke
    *Dzonghka L'Artisan
    *Costume National Scent
    *Armani Mania (black, old version)
    *Ysl, Nu
    *Gucci PH
    *Annayake Miyako
    *Passage d'Enfer
    *Messe de Minuit
    *Black Cashmere DK
    *French Lover Frederic Malle
    *Ambre Russe
    *L'Occitane Eau d'Iparie
    *Villoresi Incensi (herb-heavy on me and can turn soapy)
    Kenzo by Flower Oriental
    *CdG Man 2
    *Olibanum Profumum
    Encens et bubblegum (Etat Libre)
    Obsession CK
    Costes
    *Padparadsha Satellite
    Cedarwood Tea IHP
    Burning Leaves IHP
    *CdG Hinoki
    *Encens et Lavende, SL (weak)
    *Ambre Sultan
    *Chergui
    *Shaal Nur Etro
    *Palisander CdG
    *Bond no 9 Silver factory (starts with incense and turns into a floral)
    Santalum Profumum (hints of incense)
    *Terre de Sarment (hints of incense and also tobacco and leather)


    I marked the ones I know or own with *
    Last edited by Darwinia; 11th August 2009 at 08:05 PM.
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    Definitely a Comme des Garcons girl.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Fabulous list Darwinia !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    I haven't tried enough of the leather fragrances to help in that dept. but for incense I recommend my favorites; Cardinal by Heeley, Black Cashmere, Nu, Avignon. Messe de Minuit is interesting but it gives me a headache.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Fabulous list Darwinia !
    Thank you You can tell I'm not very reasonable when it comes to incense.

    Two more to add:
    Demeter
    *Incense (actually just sweet copal resin)
    *Myrrh (very dry and non-sweet)
    Last edited by Darwinia; 11th August 2009 at 08:30 PM.
    I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.

    Definitely a Comme des Garcons girl.

  22. #22
    Heartwood's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    I've got another one for leather-- Hermes Kelly Caleche! I see it's already on your tried list, Ubu, but there's no stars so perhaps you'd consider trying it again. I love its floral and leathery combination that seems like it should contradict itself, but doesn't and is really pretty, imo.
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  23. #23
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Darwinia, too bad you're short on suggestions (LOL)

    I used to own a small bottle of Daim Blond, which I started out loving but ended up tiring of fairly quickly...the same with AP Cuir Amethyste

    Vibert - I know, I know for the ridiculous amount of sniffing I've done, the leathers and incense frags have been skirted around! From the above suggestions it's clear I'll have to revisit some overlooked treasures!

    Some that I've tried were so long ago, when my senses couldn't fully appreciate them...you know, I view leather & incense notes as kind an 'acquired taste'. I did have a sample of Juozas Statkevicius (Josef Statkus) awhile back, and I remember really liking it...but now I cannot find a sample anywhere and $180. for 50 ml. is just too expensive for a blind buy.

    Well, if anyone can help me find a new scent - it's you people!

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by ubuandibeme View Post
    mikeperez - yep, I sure do like Serge Noire! To be honest, I don't enjoy it in the heat of summer...but it's great during the winter months. It also smells divine on my hubby, truth be told, he wears it more than me ! For my nose, it is more woods than incense...but maybe that's because I'm not well versed in that genre'. Do you rec. any CDG's for incense?
    You should try all 5 in the Incense Series sweetie, IMO this is one of the best fragrances that CdG released. As I said in my post, Avignon is my favorite but I own 3 others (Kyoto, Jaisalmer and Zagorsk). In addition, Scent One: Hinoki is pretty darn good also, but you must like a large helping of camphor and wood with your incense.

    Serge Noire is such a complex scent, it wouldn't be fair to label it just an incense scent. However it's use of frankincense makes it really special - in the vein of Essence of John Galliano room spray by Diptyque.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    I recently smelled a very nice if somewhat soft tuberose-incense fragrance, but unfortunately it's very hard to acquire - there's LITERALLY only one bottle - so, I just have a sample of it. If you'd like to give it a try feel free to PM me, Ubuandibeme.

    If myrrh is included in the incense genre, then I definitely have to add another fragrance to my recommendation list: Ayala Moriel's Razala. It's a very bold oriental based around myrrh, ambergris, tuberose, orange and pepper. It's rather uncompromising but beautiful and kind off fascinating, too, and unlike many other all-naturals, it lasts and lasts. It's one of those fragrances I reach for only once in a while, but I'm glad when I do.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    ...in the vein of Essence of John Galliano room spray by Diptyque.
    I think I must try this. I know I simply adore Diptyque's Myrrh room-spray; it's lovely, very rounded and incensey.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Lots of good suggestions, I'm just going to add...

    L'artisan Timbuktu
    Santa Maria Novella Nostalgia
    S-Perfume S-eX
    Le Labo Patchouli 24
    Le Labo Vetiver 46

  28. #28

    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    I recently smelled a very nice if somewhat soft tuberose-incense fragrance, but unfortunately it's very hard to acquire - there's LITERALLY only one bottle - so, I just have a sample of it. If you'd like to give it a try feel free to PM me, Ubuandibeme.

    If myrrh is included in the incense genre, then I definitely have to add another fragrance to my recommendation list: Ayala Moriel's Razala. It's a very bold oriental based around myrrh, ambergris, tuberose, orange and pepper. It's rather uncompromising but beautiful and kind off fascinating, too, and unlike many other all-naturals, it lasts and lasts. It's one of those fragrances I reach for only once in a while, but I'm glad when I do.
    Would that one bottle perhaps be Tuberose Lei by Ayala Moriel?! I was surfing AM's website and read the descriptions of TL and I was going to buy it blind, only to read that it was acquired on June 20th!!! If it is TL, geeez what a coincidence!!

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    Would that one bottle perhaps be Tuberose Lei by Ayala Moriel?! I was surfing AM's website and read the descriptions of TL and I was going to buy it blind, only to read that it was acquired on June 20th!!! If it is TL, geeez what a coincidence!!
    It is indeed Tuberose Lei! I'd read about it on Ayala's blog and wanted it too. Fortunately, it was a Basenoter who bought it, and I recently managed to get a sample through a trade with them. I feel quite lucky for that coincidence!

    I found it very soft, but quite lovely: a dark, complex, jewel-like tuberose note fading into a lightly smoky sandalwood-incense base.

  30. #30
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring leather & incense frags...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    ... - in the vein of Essence of John Galliano room spray by Diptyque.
    You know I had some, and found it VERY nice!

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