New fragrance by CDG & Artek - Standard

[MemoryServes]

I'm not sure if this has been already discussed on this board, but I received few days ago a word from a friend of mine that comme des garcons has conducted a collaboration with finnish furniture design house artek, the outcome is said to be loyal to A. Aalto's systems & standards concept. A fragrance that blends synthetics with natural ingredients.

Notes are (taken from artek's website): Finnish Labrador Tea, Twinflower Linnea Borealis, metal and rust in the base notes and fennel, ginger, lemon, musk, saffron and cedarwood in the top notes.

Here's a link to fragrance announcement on arteks website: http://www.artek.fi/news/56

[Sugandaraja]

I really hope the odder notes dominate the generic ones.

[warlandsboy]

And next comes the collaboration with Ikea...

[manicboy]

What, no clutch grease in the basenotes? With each new release, CDG gets stranger concepts and even stranger partners. Will they ever release a non-joint, semi-normal frag again?

[cpk]

Notes sound very promising. The only "synthetic" CdG that I have smelled are Odeur 53 and Odeur 71 (semisynthetic that one) and I must say that eventually they smell quite conventional.

[mikeperez23]

Excited to smell this,although the list of notes sounds puzzling.

[Kevin Guyer]

And next comes the collaboration with Ikea...

Yes, you mix it yourself, pour it into the bottle yourself - which unfortunately came with a cracked cap which made the entire bargain a big dissapointment when you opened the box.Somehow, you hoped it would smell more expensive.You end up moving and throwing it out.

[nwatts88]

What, no clutch grease in the basenotes? With each new release, CDG gets stranger concepts and even stranger partners. Will they ever release a non-joint, semi-normal frag again?

Why would anyone want that?

[Sugandaraja]

Why would anyone want that?

Not sure whether you're being sarcastic or not, but I agree! Some of their best releases in the past few years have been collaborations ( Stephen Jones; Hinoki, come to mind ).

I don't want CdG doing normal. There are other houses that do normal better and, perhaps more importantly, cheaper.

[cpk]

Now why a collaboration with IKEA wouldn't surprise me? And I am not being sarcastic.

[PaulSC]

Finnish Labrador Tea

Is this the infamous smell of "wet dog"?!

[manicboy]

Not sure whether you're being sarcastic or not, but I agree! Some of their best releases in the past few years have been collaborations ( Stephen Jones; Hinoki, come to mind ).

I don't want CdG doing normal. There are other houses that do normal better and, perhaps more importantly, cheaper.

Not necessarily normal but something that's really good like a few from the Incense series or 2 Man. Instead of gravitating towards niche, CdG have gravitated towards collaboration. Makes no difference as the price points are about the same, but either nobody carries them (H&M, Stephen Jones) or they leave me "low and damp" (Hinoki). IMHO, they have so far failed to create a masterpiece out of this strangeness.

[mikeperez23]

Not necessarily normal but something that's really good like a few from the Incense series or 2 Man. Instead of gravitating towards niche, CdG have gravitated towards collaboration. Makes no difference as the price points are about the same, but either nobody carries them (H&M, Stephen Jones) or they leave me "low and damp" (Hinoki). IMHO, they have so far failed to create a masterpiece out of this strangeness.

Well 8 88 was not normal and it wasn't a collaboration - even though it did come out in 2007.

[Santemon]

And next comes the collaboration with Ikea...

And it comes in a flat pack?

Seriously, I like the collaborations concept - its pretty unique and gives them (and us as consumers) exposure to a whole range of creative inputs into fragrances that aren't fashion/beauty designers...

[nsamadi]

This sounds like the best thing CdG has done in years. I'm excited to try this. I haven't liked anything past Series 3.

[Silk]

To me it smells alot like Avignon but not as dark and musky, which is odd considering it doesn't share any similar notes. At first smell I was expecting to get online and see an almost identical list note to that of Avignon. To me this is bottle worthy, and my friend who I gave my sample to is buying a bottle too.

[Somerville Metro Man]

I've just been trying this for the last few days and here is my review.

Comme des Garcons X Artek Standard

For most of us in North America our introduction to Scandanavian design aesthetic has come through the Ikea brand. Artek was one of the originators of this aesthetic; of clean lines and rounded curves over light wood colors. Artek is a Finnish modern design firm created in 1935 and continues to be an innovator in these fields to the present day. Comme des Garcons have been using unusual pairings as jumping off points to design new fragrances. Witness the very successful pairings with magazine Monocle, hatmaker Stephen Jones, and style maven Daphne Guinness. In many ways those collaborations have been true to the style exhibited by the co-promoter. It made me very interested in a fragrance which would combine a designer known for clean light designs with Comme des Garcons edgy nature. The top reflects lightness as lemon comes first followed by light applications of fennel and ginger to contrast the citrus with a slight spicy herbal counterpoint. This is a light and fleeting beginning before a healthy application of cedar takes over. Cedar is one of the cleaner notes in perfumery and also one of the most defined. For a scent inspired by furniture design it seems a perfect choice even if it is a little pedestrian and familiar.There is supposed to be saffron and musk here, according to the note list, but I have not found either of them to be present at any point to my nose. The base is where the combination of both aesthetics really takes off and elevates Standard. First there is a smoky tea note which is paired with an herbal floral note that is defined as twinflower. It reminds me a little of lavender but less floral and more herbal. Then Standard finishes with this elegant metallic note. If you look at the Artek website you will see the use of a lot of tubular aluminum and this metal accord is the smell I associate with that. A raw accord that seems to also impact not only my nose but somewhere way back on my tongue. This note is not going to be for everyone and if you're looking for a comparison it is closest to the metallic note in Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory but it is much stronger in Standard. Comme des Garcons X Artek Standard has average longevity and below average sillage. This is another strong collaborative effort on the part of Comme des Garcons, and Standard does a good job of bringing out the design aesthetic of Artek but I think this is going to be a fragrance with sharply divided opinions. As for me, I like it as it appeals to my fondness for the odd in in fragrance.

[Hide & Reason]

Here's a half-serious proposal for a new CDG Series which I will call 'Jungle' for lack of a better moniker -

Lion (majestic animalic)
Hyena (ashen violet-vetiver)
Monsoon (warm, milky green)
Canopy (putrid, arrogant floral)
Cub (cereals and spearmint)

There you go, Frenchies. Just get Bert Duchaufour to realise them, please.

[flouris]

I sampled this one today and found it very unique. Not really my style, but not one I'll soon forget. For those who live in areas where they have lightning storms, this frag really reminded me of that.. the smell of bright electricity in the air all around. It smells purely electric/metallic to me.. yet it's rather light and has a somewhat yellow/silver atmosphere to it (apologies, I always resort to using colors to explain smells).

[mikeperez23]

Sounds neat. Can't wait to sample it!

[thebeck]

I agee with Somerville Metro Man's description. Artek-Standard also appeals to my fondness for the odd in in fragrance. It's quirky and intriging. I'm appreciating the sampling, but I won't be buying a bottle. The sillage is so low and the longevity is just so-so. Two major strikes against for me.

[Jock_With_Scents]

I bought a bottle last week and have been wearing it alot to get a feel for number of sprays and for sillage.
Once again it seems that skin differences can play a huge part in longevity and sillage.
My experience is that the sillage is moderate (just right for me), but the longevity is outstanding. I have been getting 10 hours on my full wearings. After a shower, I can still detect it, which is not a plus IMO.

I have been receiving compliments on it as well at work. I don't perceive it as metallic in feel as others have noted. I get lots of wood, a slightly sweet herbal tinge in the drydown and bitter shrubbery underneath the spicy wood during mid notes. It has a dry feel throughout with a feel of dusty books, and whiffs of browns and greens. Some have noted Jaisalmer, and Avignon similarities...I guess their are hints of each maybe at points. Hinoki is much more severe and lacks the slightly sweet feel Standard has. The Pine, Vetiver, and Turpentine give Hinoki more of a damp, mildewed aura. Standard comes off more chalky, dusty and dry. I feel Standard is much more approachable and wearable than Hinoki.

You have to spray Standard and give it a chance with at least four sprays. Subtle at first, but it becomes more diffusive and fills your personal space as the day wears on with a pretty fine example of what CDG does so well: Interesting and thought provoking scent combinations that fill your head with nostalgia and peace.

[Speed00kills]

I sampled this one today and found it very unique. Not really my style, but not one I'll soon forget. For those who live in areas where they have lightning storms, this frag really reminded me of that.. the smell of bright electricity in the air all around. It smells purely electric/metallic to me.. yet it's rather light and has a somewhat yellow/silver atmosphere to it (apologies, I always resort to using colors to explain smells).

I get the metallic notes too. It reminds me of a lighter gucci ph with metallic notes.

[mtgprox05]

For some reason, I'm completely captivated by the promise of this fragrance ( though I've yet to try it). You know when you get that feeling about a frag, for whatever reason, that you expect to really like it? I'm getting that feeling with this one. Anyone else get a chance to try it?

[Sorcery of Scent]

This was very nearly a FB purchase of mine in Hamburg.
Its strange, because I didn't especially get a Scandinavian feel from this... it seemed far too elaborate, and more Mediterranean in nature. It had its flashes of "industrialness", but to me it seemed more in place with the CdG Incense line - the total sum of the notes was a bit like a "green frankincense".
Still, I liked it a LOT, and it had moderate to high persistence on my skin. Definitely one to turn one's attention to.

[Kevin Guyer]

I liked it, but found it a bit too reminiscent of Jaisalmer. It floats nicely off the skin - I like the idea of catching the occasional whiff. I also tried Dover Street Market, which I liked even more. CdG seems to be on a mainstream streak these days, well, mainstream for them anyways. Nice work. CdG 2 Man is still my favorite from them.

[mikeperez23]

Just got my sample in last night and I haven't had a chance to wear it yet, but I sprayed a tiny bit on last night and the first impression I got was of Scent One: Hinoki and (like Ruggles) Jaisalmer (Series 3: Incense).

[andylama]

Bought STANDARD last night at Barney's Scottsdale. Knew nothing about it going in, but liked it immediately upon smelling it.

It goes on smelling very 'industrial' (like those crazy 'Garage', 'Tar', frags), but not like a cleaning product, per se. Definitely a harmonious blend of unapologetically synthetic and exotic-but-pale naturals. It is about as spicy as an IKEA warehouse. The fragrance equivalent of ultra-modern furniture/architecture, all chrome tubes and weird shapes. Even the 'concrete brick' bottle suggests a 'to hell with tradition' aesthetic. We're all familiar with "new car smell"...well STANDARD is like "new nuclear submarine smell". Almost sterile, but unfamiliar enough to be fascinating.

It strikes me as a very transparent ozonic + light tea + japanese incense...like fresh air without any of those tired calone/aquatic notes. Just a touch of sweetness, like one pinch of sugar in your cup of tea. It is also not linear, though the progression is subtle. Fortunately, it remains pleasant all the way through.

The only flaw (and it is a big one) is that it has low sillage and poor longevity (5 sprays lasted about 3 hours on my skin--must try on fabric)...but is a very interesting fragrance. Not quite like anything else in my wardrobe.

Definitely worth sampling.

EDIT for clarification: Though the sillage and longevity are rather poor, the fragrance does not disappear...it just becomes a very quiet skin scent. It is now 5 hours after application and I can still smell it, but it is QUIET. Still nice, though.

[flouris]

If this stuff fares well in spring/summer weather like I think it will, then it's definitely a bottle purchase for me. I really like this one.. but in winter time it seems to have no chance when fighting against the cold air.

[nsamadi]

This one smells like a lot of ceder. Slightly spicy and dry at the same time. I've smelt something done by CdG like this but can't place it. Yes, there's a bit of Avignon, Jaisalmer & Hinoki in there. This isn't anything original. Just seems like something they've come up with before but watered down or tweaked a bit.

Thumbs down.