Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 23 of 23

Thread: Iris Comparison

  1. #1

    Default Iris Comparison

    So I've tried the following fragrances that showcase iris - Lutens Iris Silver Mist, TDC Bois d'Iris, PG Cuir d'Iris/Iris Taizo and Dior Homme...

    I find the iris in Dior Homme to be closest to the "rooty" vs. floral iris in the Lutens ISM... very dry, almost like the smell of the pages of paper in an old book. I was rather surprised the iris in Dior Homme was so potent, tenacious and vivid. It did remind me of ISM for sure and not so much the iris (flower?) in the aforementioned scents.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Yeah see when I was going on an iris hunt a month or so ago I got really confused as to the floral part of iris perfumes, because iris flowers themselves have no floral scent, they smell like juicy green unscented petals! I got a hold of some violets which were exactly what I had thought iris flowers smelt like, from the various iris perfumes I'd tried. I'd be very interested to smell iris absolute (if it exists), iris root essence and violet absolute next to each other.

    Anyways sorry to hijack your moment there. Dior Homme is a very nice iris, one of the best recent release designer fragrances I know of. The cult of Hedi Slimane doesn't hang around for nothing!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    I adore Heeley Iris de Nuit and of course, the stunning 28 la Pausa
    beauty guru & perfume whisperer
    dalybeauty.ca
    twitter @daly_beauty

  4. #4

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    I'm looking forward to trying the sample of Maitre Parfumeur Iris Bleu Gris I'm ordering - have you tried this one?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Weird. I'm surprised you find Iris Silver Mist floral - to me, it's much darker, earthier and less sweet than Dior Homme. ISM smelled like carrots, iris, and earth, but Dior Homme smelled like gourmand lipstick ( considering the respective availability of the two, though, I certainly wish my impressions were reversed! )

    Scented iris flowers smell like grape jam to me, nothing like the root. I came across a patch of scented ones couple years ago - I don't think there are many scented varieties. If it wasn't so bombastic, perhaps Alien would be a good iris flower fragrance.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by warlandsboy View Post
    I'm looking forward to trying the sample of Maitre Parfumeur Iris Bleu Gris I'm ordering - have you tried this one?

    Yeah...I've tried this...I found it very similar to TDC Bois D'Iris.....it had decent longevity...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Though I don't like either, Iris Bleu Gris is the closest fragrance to Fath's classic Iris Gris ( in fact I suspect it's a little bit of a homage, given the name ). In fact, I liked IBG better because it smelled - at least to me - the bigger and more complex of the two.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quick comments on the different facets of iris represented by the fragrances mentioned in the first post. I went through a big iris phase not so long ago....

    Iris Silver Mist: dark and rooty - the cold, palid side of iris. If you like this representation of iris but want it toned down a little, try Hermes Hiris.

    TDC Bois d'Iris: I always think of wine when I smell this... it also has that 'bread' quality that one also finds in iris fragrances such as L'Artisan Bois Farine and Iris Pallida. The same sort of iris appears in Guerlain Apres l'Ondee, which is made 'interesting' with the addition of violet, anise, vanilla, and herbal notes (while still having prominent iris).

    PG Cuir d'Iris - not much distinct iris, if any. Instead I believe that iris gives the leather accord it's soft and buttery feel.

    PG Iris Taizo: here iris serves as the underlying dominant floral upon which sweeter florals are presented. A toned down version of this can be found in SMN Iris, which is lightly sweetened yet still powdery and earthy... it's great.

    Dior Homme to my nose doesn't have very distinct iris but it's clearly the floral upon which gourmand and leather notes are built, and it provides a softness to the overall composition much the way iris does in Cuir d'Iris. Another fragrance in this same category would be Guerlain Iris Ganache, which uses very sweet cocoa and vanilla notes mixes with prominent, powdery iris. If you try the Dior Homme Cologne the iris is more obviously present.

    MPG Iris Bleu Gris adds a big peppery/spice note to the underlying iris (and it's sister scent, MPG Fleur d'Iris weds vanilla to iris).

  9. #9

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    The scent of iris doesn't come from the flower. It is produced from the root of the plant. It takes a minimum of three years of growing the plant and about another two years of treating the root. That's why it is so expensive. The final product has an undeniable floral tone but the iris flower itself does not contribute to it.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    The iris, for me, is that note that is somehow thick in texture, that some people associate to lipstick, crayons or carrots (i think crayon is the closest of these three). The best example to detect it is Iris Silver Mist.

    But it can work differently depending on what is envolving it. While Iris Silver Mist is rooty and earthy, Bois d'Iris is woody, and Dior Homme is sweet gourmand. Anyway, all of these fragrances shares (in different proportions) that thick "crayon-like" note somewhere in their top notes or evolution. By the way, i can't detect this note in Iris Bleu Gris and Iris Ganache (and also none or almost undetectable in Iris Poudre).

  11. #11
    Dependent

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    8,223

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Hermes Hiris, though sweet and powdery, also has that distinct carroty, cosmetics bag, lipstick accord, to my nose. It is my 2nd favorite behind Bois d'Iris.


    Quote Originally Posted by vitorscpaiva View Post
    The iris, for me, is that note that is somehow thick in texture, that some people associate to lipstick, crayons or carrots (i think crayon is the closest of these three).
    Yes now that you have mentioned it, crayon seem to be the best descriptor for me as well.
    Last edited by MFJ; 5th October 2009 at 08:44 AM.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by heynow View Post
    Quick comments on the different facets of iris represented by the fragrances mentioned in the first post. I went through a big iris phase not so long ago....
    Thanks for these reviews. I added Iris Silver Mist, Cuir d'Iris, and Iris Tazo 14 to my test list.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    I could also suggest you should try Divine's L' Homme de Coeur. http://www.basenotes.net/ID26122423.html A very dry and very masculine iris and woods combo. Not very popular but extremely enjoyable and available online in the official site.
    Last edited by cpk; 5th October 2009 at 05:25 PM.

  14. #14
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    27,227

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by cpk View Post
    The scent of iris doesn't come from the flower. It is produced from the root of the plant. It takes a minimum of three years of growing the plant and about another two years of treating the root. That's why it is so expensive. The final product has an undeniable floral tone but the iris flower itself does not contribute to it.
    What he said. ^

  15. #15

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    After 28 La Pausa, I've been on an iris kick, too. These comparisons have been really helpful (and added to my ever-growing test list ).

    I've been trying to get a sense of where Parfums DelRae's new Mythique falls in the iris spectrum, but I don't have a good handle on it yet. (Notes from Luckyscent: mandarin, Italian bergamot, ivy, peony, jasmin concrete, Florentine orris butter, sandalwood, patchouli, ambrette musk.)
    .
    Sniff and let sniff.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Not a fan of iris, though I enjoy Iris Taizo. My search for my favorite iris has ended though at, Dior Homme Cologne.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

    Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense

  17. #17

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Hmmm just busted out my sample of TDC Bois d'Iris and still think it's a bit dull, but I still may give it a wear this week if I can find an empty atomizer...

    Edit: Still on a search for a sample of Dior Homme Cologne heh.
    Last edited by warlandsboy; 5th October 2009 at 10:21 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Orris butter, absolute, can vary quite a bit based on the irone content - the more irones and the more potent and floral, sweet, berry (raspberry) and violet flower-like it tends to be. There is also a waxy/woody/crayon-like (great descriptor, thanks vitorscpaiva ) texture that varies in strength absed on the extraction method, the exact species, and the irone content.

    Iris is often used in blends to soften sharp or shrill notes, the way a thin towel placed over a speakers tweeter will reduce the treble content. Of course, overdosed or done poorly and the resulting composition - just like a speaker with a large blanket over it - will become muddy. Sometimes though, the mix is just too shrill as is and a subtle attenuation of those qualities makes it infinitely more palatable.

    Some of my favorite iris scents that haven't been mentioned are MPG's Bois de Turquie which mixes iris with cinnamon and a host of other spices and soft woods, and Amouage's Reflection where it forms a large part of the heart of the fragrance along with neroli and ylang ylang. Here it contributes subtle berry like notes, a powdery vibe with a thick, slightly waxy texture, and also contributes to the fragrances cool/cold quality.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  19. #19

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Orris butter, absolute, can vary quite a bit based on the irone content - the more irones and the more potent and floral, sweet, berry (raspberry) and violet flower-like it tends to be. There is also a waxy/woody/crayon-like (great descriptor, thanks vitorscpaiva ) texture that varies in strength absed on the extraction method, the exact species, and the irone content.

    Iris is often used in blends to soften sharp or shrill notes, the way a thin towel placed over a speakers tweeter will reduce the treble content. Of course, overdosed or done poorly and the resulting composition - just like a speaker with a large blanket over it - will become muddy. Sometimes though, the mix is just too shrill as is and a subtle attenuation of those qualities makes it infinitely more palatable.

    Some of my favorite iris scents that haven't been mentioned are MPG's Bois de Turquie which mixes iris with cinnamon and a host of other spices and soft woods, and Amouage's Reflection where it forms a large part of the heart of the fragrance along with neroli and ylang ylang. Here it contributes subtle berry like notes, a powdery vibe with a thick, slightly waxy texture, and also contributes to the fragrances cool/cold quality.
    What a cool analogy, explained it well in layman's terms

    Why am I not surprised that you've somehow managed to mention Amouage again SoS!
    Last edited by jathanas; 6th October 2009 at 12:15 AM.
    Conscience is what hurts when everything else feels so good.

  20. #20
    N_Tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Center of the Universe; California.
    Posts
    4,599
    Blog Entries
    2

    Thumbs up Re: Iris Comparison

    My favorite Iris based fragrance is not one but two used simultaneously in a two to one proportion. Now, before you brand me a heretic I offer for your consideration Arpege pour homme (two spritz) to Hermes Hiris (one spritz). IMO a better alternative to Dior Homme. Not as sweet and with more Iris. It is alchemy my friends at it's best.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    This post is mandatory reading for those interested in Iris. Read especially the educational post by Scentemental:

    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=203989

    -Slim
    Haikus are easy
    But do not always make sense
    Refrigerator

    ____________________________________________
    My swaps and sales are now listed here:
    http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=124

    And here (just search for Slim):
    http://scentsplits.wikidot.com/current-splits

  22. #22

    Default Re: Iris Comparison

    Quote Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post
    My favorite Iris based fragrance is not one but two used simultaneously in a two to one proportion. Now, before you brand me a heretic I offer for your consideration Arpege pour homme (two spritz) to Hermes Hiris (one spritz). IMO a better alternative to Dior Homme. Not as sweet and with more Iris. It is alchemy my friends at it's best.
    I love Hiris - it's a great go-to when I want just simple iris. To be honest I don't reach for Dior Homme for iris, but for when I want a light gourmand... so even while Dior Homme contains iris I don't think of it as 'an iris'.

  23. #23

    Thumbs up Re: Iris Comparison

    My favorite is the superb DIOR HOMME but i also love IRIS SILVER MIST, L'HOMME DE COEUR and IRIS BLEU GRIS
    Have I told you about the scent of jasmine? Have I spoken about the smell of the sea? The earth is scented. And I perfume myself to enhance what I am. That's why I can not wear a perfume that bothers me. Perfuming is an instinctive wisdom. And like all art, it requires some knowledge of yourself..."
    Clarice Lispector ( 1920-1977) - Perfumes da Terra / Earth
    Perfumes

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 31
    Last Post: 28th May 2010, 03:35 PM
  2. Help me continue my Iris insanity!
    By Sugandaraja in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 54
    Last Post: 2nd January 2009, 04:05 PM
  3. Comprehensive List of Iris Scents
    By Dane in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 59
    Last Post: 22nd November 2008, 05:56 AM
  4. Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens - a mini review
    By mikeperez23 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 37
    Last Post: 11th November 2008, 08:03 PM
  5. The unmelancholy iris.
    By Carlos in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 14th August 2006, 08:16 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000