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  1. #1

    Default Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I'm beginning to feel that Serge has been running on automatic pilot the last couple of years. Has he been abandoned by Sheldrake? Honestly, what is radically different between Serge Noir, Fille en Aiguilles and Five O'Clock Au Gingembre? And I ask, does anyone find Nuit de Cellophane interesting? Just curious.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I would have said yes until Fille en Aiguilles. Neither Nuit de Cellophane or Serge Noir appealed to me at all, and especially the Cellophane I thought was inferior for Lutens. However with F-e-A I feel like they've gotten back to doing what they do best - unique orientals. The 5 o Clock Gingerbre was a decent gourmand release, it's just that gourmands aren't everyone's thing. I guess everyone's answer will depend on how they view SL as a house. I see them as a bit stuffy and not as a hip innovater (like CdG or ELDO is), so I just see the current state as more of the same and not really a rut.

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    While Chergui and Ambre Sultan are both time honored scents I think Lutens is making a good approach with the Fille un Agilles it goes back to the oriental roots of the brand although its not terribly original it plays it safe

    Nuit de Cellophane, I must say even though it smells like a 120$ version of Pantene I must give Lutens kudos for trying to be creative
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  4. #4

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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I really loved Serge Noir and have used about 80% of my bottle. Gingembre I enjoyed, but don't seem to be craving it as much. Filles I've been liking a lot and getting a lot of wear out of. Cellophane wasn't me at all, but God love him for doing the definitive fruity-floral, it's to be hoped putting a stake to the heart of the whole genre..

    None of these have been the "whoa.." reaction I had with Chene, MKK, Rahat or Borneo but I did enjoy them better than 98% of the releases out there..

  5. #5

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Radically different between each other, or radically different from the market? I don't see much of anything that's the _same_ between Serge Noire and Five O'Clock Au Gingembre. To me, the first is volcanic dust, and the second is fruitcake with a little too much citrus peel.

    Serge Noire seems to fit simply because so many people hate it passionately, and I love it passionately. That kind of wild divergence in opinions seems like Lutens. Gingembre seems to fit less well, because it's hard to hate it. I don't _like_ it, but I don't hate it.

    I do, on the other hand, agree that Nuit de Cellophane seems like something from another house - to my nose, it's a Pretty Little Scent, and Lutens isn't a Pretty Little Scent house.

    Crayfish

  6. #6

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    No, Pierre Montale is. =p J/K
    Last edited by EarNoseThroat; 21st October 2009 at 04:28 AM.

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I don't think so.

    (This topic has been coming up regularly for years yet he miraculously manages to come up with wonderful new scents...)
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  8. #8

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Sometimes I think so, every once in a while I just a syrupy mess and I can't pick out the notes or what the perfume wanted to do for me. But there is great stuff amongst the ones I didn't like. There's something for everyone with Lutens. Serge Noir was my recent favorite.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I didn't mean to say that the three Lutens that I strung together are the same fragrance, I meant to ask if they represent anything radically different from what Lutens has already communicated? I once felt SLwas my personal fragrance Mecca, I think there has been a lot of re-treads and a lot of glaring miss-steps created within the last couple of years. Perhaps the run on cheap, synthetic, exotic aroma chemicals, that Lutens/Sheldrake exploited with such beauty, skill, and wild abandon, has dried up.
    Arabie will always be the potion that conjures up a wild ride on the Marrakech Express. But where does Gingembre take me to? Willie Wonka's?
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 21st October 2009 at 04:47 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I like some of the modern Lutens, but I feel even the ones I like lack a little of the drama of some of the early ones. Where are the La Myrrhes, The Iris Silver Mists, The Tubereuse Criminelles? Lutens has released - totally IMO - a few duds since the inception of the house, but what I miss are the adventuresome releases. I like Mandarine Mandarin, Sarrasins, and Serge Noire, but all three smell like bold, interesting fragrances that have been reformulated into something mild and milquetoast.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    i still like SL offerings and find them interesting both from the composition perspective and ingredients.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by heynow View Post
    I would have said yes until Fille en Aiguilles.
    This was my first thought when I read the title of the thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Arabie will always be the potion that conjures up a wild ride on the Marrakech Express.
    This is the only Serge Lutens I currently own, although I have been thinking about getting Fille en Aiguilles.
    I also like Fumerie Turque, but not quite enough to go full bottle on it.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    I don't think so.

    (This topic has been coming up regularly for years yet he miraculously manages to come up with wonderful new scents...)
    Very true. You may not like them all, but the 47 perfumes released in less than two decades at least deserve the name parfum . Different people have different preferences. I consider Serge Noire a masterpiece that re-defined the borders of what the term parfum covers. And this was released as recently as 2008! I enjoy wearing six perfumes from that house regularly, and there are two more I would love to acquire. This is more than I can say of any other house. And if he would not release a single other perfume in the next decade, Serge Lutens has re-defined oriental for me by purging it from unnecessary embellishments developed in Europe during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries for that genre. He made Orientals wearable for a man, and I feel gratitude for that. Also, melancholy is a great theme of his, and I seem to have particular receptors for melancholy below the surface.
    Last edited by narcus; 21st October 2009 at 10:55 AM.
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    edit: posted to wrong thread.
    Last edited by pluran; 23rd October 2009 at 10:37 AM. Reason: astroglide

  15. #15

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I have to agree with Ruggles...sorta. I think the export line has been going downhill. I think it started with Rousse (yawn) and Louve (yawn), then things just went downhill with Serge Noire and 5 O'clock, which to me are both awful. Filles en Aiguilles is consistent with his work, but not all that interesting. Cellophane was a completely $*#&%(-up.

    My argument to the contrary would be the non-export line. Sarrasins is beautiful, Mandarine Mandarin is very unique, El Attarine stunning. I have tried Forreau yet.

    I think like any house, there are ups and downs. I'm confident that he'll come back, just like he always does.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I think the Lutens range began with such a bang, it's difficult to keep up that level of success with each release. I personally don't think they're in trouble though...there is an ebb and flow to everything, and as they evolve - we witness that effect. Serge Noire is amazing. Nuits de Cellophane - meh. Still, this house has WAY more winners than losers with an abundance of craftsmanship & quality! Lutens is solid.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    We tend to look at the new work in view of the old.

    Let's say one only had opportunity to try the Lutens scents of the last 2 years with none of the predecessors available (or in existence). Probably some of these would be esteemed higher than they currently are without the previous creations in view.

    Just an idea.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    It seems there are alternating waves of admiration and badmouthing in the entire site aimed at most houses and designers. You can see that in the reviews as well. You start with 10 positives followed by busrt of negatives and the on to positives and so on. I think you cannot expect from a house to generate masterpiece after masterpiece. It wouldn't be fair. Especially in the case of SL I beleive that a lot of what is going on in his life goes into his creations. Otherwise he would 've had an oud perfume out by now .
    And there are so many different opinions on his recent releases. I haven't tried NdC, FeA or FN yet. I read a lot of critisizing about Louve and i didn't think it was that bad. Serge Noir is a fantastic interpretation of incense fumes. No other scent has been able to give the impression that i am smelling hot fumes. In a Lutens way of course which means loads of spices and a deep base. But one either likes that or not. In any case I consider SN pretty unique, regardless of whether one likes it or not.
    I think we should just lay off the creators and stop being so sarcastic and criticising here. There are members in this forum whose reviews are nothing but semi-intelligent, bitter, caustic stand up comedy punchlines. Is this really what expands our knowledge on perfume?

  19. #19

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Let's see... uninspired new releases and the older creations being reformulated one by one... Doesn't sound good, does it?

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    My last two Lutens purchases were Rousse (2007) and Serge Noire (2008) - so the answer from me would be no, not in a rut. Then again, I'm an unapologetic Lutens fanatic and have yet to find another house who can communicate so perfectly through scent the way his stuff does.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Nope not at all, IMO. I think Lutens style lends itself better than say Montale, to small changes to the same scent. There's only so many Aoud/Rose scents one can take, but I find that Serge can make small tweaks to his sweet oriental base, and I can enjoy them more on an individual basis. Fille en Aguilles is testament to this, it's brilliant IMO.
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  22. #22

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I thought Serge Lutens was always in a rut

    Seriously, for me, Lutens is right up there with Amouage of highly anticipated major disappointments time after time. And by the way, whoever thinks Serge Noire is a masterpiece must also think lung cancer is a masterpiece. As a disease, it really is. Lung cancer does a masterful job of unnecessarily killing millions of people globally each year. Maybe Lutens next masterpiece should be Serge Cancer.


    TJ

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by TigerJuice View Post
    I thought Serge Lutens was always in a rut

    Seriously, for me, Lutens is right up there with Amouage of highly anticipated major disappointments time after time. And by the way, whoever thinks Serge Noire is a masterpiece must also think lung cancer is a masterpiece. As a disease, it really is. Lung cancer does a masterful job of unnecessarily killing millions of people globally each year. Maybe Lutens next masterpiece should be Serge Cancer.


    TJ
    You might wanna think about creating a new avatar out of that joke

    Anyway, I tend to agree with scentsitivity in that we may be unfair to the new releases given the scents that came before them. However, the question at hand is whether Serge Lutens is in a rut, aka whether he is putting out frags of lower quality than before. And so we cannot refrain from comparing his new releases to his old. I personally feel the export range has always been meh so it came as no surprise that I didn't like Serge Noire, Five O'Clock au Gingembre and Fille en Aiguilles. As for the Paris exclusives, I did really like Sarrasins which was released as recently as 2007. I sorta like El Attarine and didn't like Fourreau Noir, but one release I didn't like is not enough for me to close the door on a house.

    In conclusion, I'll still give all future releases a try, but I'm not holding my breath. MKK, Fumerie Turque and Iris Silver Mist are still my favourites.
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  24. #24

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    This is just an observation, not a judgment in stone. I find Fille en Aiguilles and Serge Noir to be related to the much vilified Chypre Rouge, which I actually prefer to both. I do love the 'melancholy' of Lutens aesthetic that Pluran points out. Also as sofresh mentioned, perhaps it is just the Export line that has been rather underwhelming. And yet, wasn't Arabie created as an export? I have to be honest it was the release of Nuit de Cellophane that really put me in my current frame of mind - I still can't believe it was released under the Lutens label.
    I wasn't aware that the originals were being reformulated, as Trebor suggests. But somehow I remember a thread that mentioned Serge himself had opened the can of worms on this one.
    I'm sticking to my guns in the feeling that with every new release, the Lutens line is beginning to repeat itself. It happens to every artist during their long careers.
    The same can be said about Jasper Johns, Richard Strauss and I.M. Pei.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 21st October 2009 at 04:01 PM.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by TigerJuice View Post
    And by the way, whoever thinks Serge Noire is a masterpiece must also think lung cancer is a masterpiece.
    What a bizarre statement to make. Opinions vary, a point seemingly lost on a few folks here. ;p

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Hmm...this is probably not related but the discussion makes me wonder if a house 'signature feel/ interpretation' might somehow be misconstrued as a rut... Was 'guerlainade' a rut for Guerlain? Or Ellena's minimalist approach a rut? But I do understand the frustration when a respected house release a dud or jumps on the trend bandwagon. And I do agree that artists often have difficulties in outdoing a previous masterpiece.

    On a side note, I find Fille en Aiguilles highly evocative, certainly not what you'd expect to from a 'rut state'.
    Last edited by Diamondflame; 21st October 2009 at 04:23 PM.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Hmm...this is probably not related but the discussion makes me wonder if a house 'signature feel/ interpretation' might somehow be misconstrued as a rut... Was 'guerlainade' a rut for Guerlain? Or Ellena's minimalist approach a rut? But I do understand the frustration when a respected house release a dud or jumps on the trend bandwagon. And I do agree that artists often have difficulties in outdoing a previous masterpiece.
    Good comment!

  28. #28

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Hmm...this is probably not related but the discussion makes me wonder if a house 'signature feel/ interpretation' might somehow be misconstrued as a rut... Was 'guerlainade' a rut for Guerlain? Or Ellena's minimalist approach a rut? But I do understand the frustration when a respected house release a dud or jumps on the trend bandwagon. And I do agree that artists often have difficulties in outdoing a previous masterpiece.

    On a side note, I find Fille en Aiguilles highly evocative, certainly not what you'd expect to from a 'rut state'.
    Two different points. First, absolutely not, in regards to 'Guerlinade' being 'a rut for Guerlain' - it is their house signature. An easily recognized signature. I don't think Lutens really has a Lutenade, at least I can't see one shared between Nuit de Cellopane, Arabie, Gris Clair, MKK, etc. I think the Lutens that do overlap in approach are a result of the rather limited repetoire of ingredients used in Lutens woody orientals, particularly cedar and benzoin and the endless variations on the Feminite du Bois theme. It consider nothing more than riffing.
    And yes, in regrards to Ellena. Luca Turin actually often brings up your exact point when discussing Ellena's minimalist approach.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 21st October 2009 at 05:05 PM.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Even though I have criticized some of the more recent Lutens releases, I do not think the house is necessarily in decline. No perfume house can produce an unbroken stream of masterpieces, especially at the rate Lutens introduces new scents. Ups and downs are inevitable. Yes, Rousse, Five O'Clock au Gingembre, Louve, El Attarine, and even Sarrasins have all struck me as either bland or redundant, and yes, I think a fruity floral like Nuits de Cellophane was a conceptual mistake for this house. On the other hand, I've found Mandarine-Mandarin and Chêne to be bold, provocative, and yet wearable in the best Serge Lutens tradition, and both are among my favorites in the line. Serge Noire starts out magnificently, and I dismiss it only because it collapses abruptly into something much less interesting after only a half an hour's wear. I'm eager to try Filles en Anguilles after reading the initial reviews. I've never been a worshipper of this (or any) house, but I'm certainly not giving up on Serge Lutens yet, either!
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 21st October 2009 at 05:22 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by flouris View Post
    What a bizarre statement to make. Opinions vary, a point seemingly lost on a few folks here. ;p
    I have to agree. I don't care for Serge Noir but I can appreciate why someone would. Likening a fragrance to cancer (based on what? One sampling?) is pointless. Why bother? As cpk mentioned in his post above, there are too many wannabe comedians when we really come here for fragrance knowledge.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Interesting reading. I'll qualify straight up my knowledge of Lutens is restricted to the export line - I haven't worn any of the Paris 'classics'.

    Maybe not so much a rut as a plateau? A rut, to me, means an artist has nothing new to offer and is just marking time, living off past glories, recycling a formula, and generally playing safe.

    In the last couple of years we have seen, amongst others, Nuit de Cellophane, Serge Noir and Fille en Aiguilles.

    I guess some might call Nuit a safe commercial shot at the fem market? But isn't that also clearly at risk of alienating the hardcore fans looking for edgy orientalism? So it's both - safe and risky.

    Serge Noir? About as non-commercial as you can get - I don't like it, but some here are citing it as edgy break-through territory, his best for a while etc.

    Fille en Aiguilles seems to be pretty well received by Lutens fans generally - so is that a 'safe Lutens' then, one that meets with the approval of most fans of his work because it presses the right buttons - in other words same old, same old but with pine?

    And one other we haven't seen here yet (is it Forreau Noir?) is Lutens third take on Lavender, I believe? Is this 'repetition' due to lack of creative ideas or a variation on what may be a favourite theme? Surely mature artistes re-visit themes and re-interpret them from new angles / cast them in new settings?

    I get the sense that Lutens is in transition perhaps, from a bit of an iconoclast to a more mature 'house' and yes, possibly the fact that C. Sheldrake is working elsewhere some of the time means that he too is looking for new inspiration, so let's see where this all leads. I really like the few Lutens I own but I'm certainly not an apologist for his work, and from where I'm sitting I simply see a creative person maybe at a watershed or plateau - trying a few things out, looking back and playing with some old themes, while still perfectly capable of lobbing the odd hand grenade (Serge Noir, anybody?).

    So, just based on my experience of his work to date and releases from the last couple of years or so, I don't get the feeling Serrge Lutens is stuck in a rut.

    Personal faves: Arabie, Daim Blond, Gris Clair, Chergui, Fumurie Turque and I may buy Fille en Aiguilles.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Interesting reading. I'll qualify straight up my knowledge of Lutens is restricted to the export line - I haven't worn any of the Paris 'classics'.
    Maybe not so much a rut as a plateau? A rut, to me, means an artist has nothing new to offer and is just marking time, living off past glories, recycling a formula, and generally playing safe.
    A considered response, thanks. I like your concept of a 'plateau' - nothing negative about that geologically based word.
    I hope everyone that responds to this thread understands the title is a question, "Is SL in a rut?" And not a statement, which would read: "SL is in a rut." Thanks for all the fine contributions to this discussion, that is with the exception of the odd cancer metaphor - which has me scratching my head.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 21st October 2009 at 07:06 PM.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Oh, and I'd just like to add that I don't get all the hate of Five O'Clock, I find it great. The only thing knocking it down to the 3.5-4 range is it's longevity, which is ironic for a Lutens. In all my sniffing it is by far the best representation of ginger, and easily the most wearable ginger fragrance, for me that is. I'm not quite sure what everyone expects from it, it's not loud, controversial, or that unique, but not everything needs to be. What it is, is another well done Lutens oriental, that happens to be a little watery for my tastes, but smells fantastic. I don't get it
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  34. #34

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I find Fille en Aiguilles and Serge Noir to be related to the much vilified Chypre Rouge
    Yikes, really?
    FeE just dropped considerably on my to-try list.
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  35. #35

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I think the perfume industry is in a rut...

    Lutens moment as innovator is long over. The concept only carries so far. But the quality is still solid - top percentile of the market, miles ahead of all these new gimmicky niches selling designer-clones in pretentious flacons. Wife loves Rousse, I dig Noir, so we're OK with Serge.
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  36. #36

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I think mr.reasonable's comment is spot on. And I have to add that few haouses have such a strong underlying theme as Lutens. There is this melancholic, deep, strong, oppinonated concept running in such different approaches as Gris Clair and Arabie.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Serge Lutens has always been more niche than say Malle or Creed, which are more of a classic fragrance house ala Guerlain. Serge's niche ofcourse has been the wild sugary spicy oriental theme of Morocco (with the Bourdon inspired Bois series a mild offshoot and an Iris Silver Mist here and there).

    Alas, there's only so much you can do with honey and indian masala. The same critique can be made of Guerlain and the older Guerlains certainly had a lot of similar gourmand quality about them...however Guerlain now has a nice diverse product line with various top citruses (Serge Lutens has none!) and other assorted creations.

    Someone needs to buy Lutens a ticket out of Morocco. That place has served as inspiration for a long enough time. Every company needs to reinvent itself every once in a while. That said, there's no need to be promiscuous and crass in output (see Montale) to cover all bases; if slow and steady catering to the fans is what is most feasible right now, there's nothing wrong with that.
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  38. #38
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I'm beginning to feel that Serge has been running on automatic pilot the last couple of years. Has he been abandoned by Sheldrake? Honestly, what is radically different between Serge Noir, Fille en Aiguilles and Five O'Clock Au Gingembre? And I ask, does anyone find Nuit de Cellophane interesting? Just curious.
    I find that to be true of all SL's. They have similiar bases but with different top notes and heart notes. Actually I find that to be true of a lot oh houses.

    I think they are having difficulty coming out with new powerhouses after introducing us to so many. They are probably caught between innovation vs what the customer will buy to make the house profitable. N ot to mention the owrld reccission has everyone concerned about profit vs loss. But like many companies investing highly in R&D they are likely to blow us away with a new one in the next year or so.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Vibert View Post
    . Serge Noire starts out magnificently, and I dismiss it only because it collapses abruptly into something much less interesting after only a half an hour's wear.
    I've seen a number of people say this. For me, Serge Noire _starts_ after about sixty minutes and hits its stride after about two and a half hours. I only love the first hour because I know what's coming.

    Crayfish

  40. #40

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    I do not agree at all ! ... I think he has just been smart and has been designing in accordance with the economic climate of the mo'. ... And has very cleverly designed for what was necessary and for what "style" was missing in his oeuvre !

    I think "Fille en Aigulles" is a brilliant composition, ( and "back to form" ), and very different from "Serge Noir" or "5 o'Clock...".

    I actually really liked his "5 o'Clock" which seems to be disliked here by most. I think it's a very nice, easy wearing "every day type" ginger frag. ~ Totally different from all his others ! And an excellent ginger rendition ! (I often find I reach for it much more often than I ever thought I would, just when I don't feel like wearing anything else. It's like a "sorbet" ("palate cleansing") scent !

    And though I do agree that "Nuits de Cellophane" is kinda boring in comparison to his "usual". It's the perfect "basic pretty floral" to attract the least adventurous "general" customer who might be interested in one of his frags (due to hype?), but who would not necessarily go for his other "richer" numbers. (A perfect "bread & butter" type for the economic climate, and the more "general public" !)

    I think he has just been adding some "astuteness" to his more usual artistic freedom ! ~ Nothing wrong with that !
    Last edited by Sybarite; 22nd October 2009 at 01:14 AM.

  41. #41
    ubuandibeme's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    ...Someone needs to buy Lutens a ticket out of Morocco....
    you crack me up!

  42. #42

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Someone needs to buy Lutens a ticket out of Morocco.

    I don't agree at all ! ... I think he has only given us so many facets from the Moroccan inspiration. And there's much more that could still be mined from it. ... I think it's far from exhausted ! (Spice is only but one facet of the Moroccan influence ... there's much more to be had !)

    Besides, it's his thing ! ... why change it, when it works so well ! ...
    (Not that I'm advocating any more "spicy-stewed-fruit" ... There's much more to Morocco ! )
    Last edited by Sybarite; 22nd October 2009 at 01:28 AM.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sybarite View Post
    There's much more to Morocco ! )
    I toured Morocco once, Marrakech, Fez, Meknes, Rabat, and I did smell something that Serge hasn't touched on yet: the smell of the leather tanneries. In my entire life, I have never smelled anything more nauseating than the one in Marrakech. The raw skins are brought in with flesh still attached, piled up, with no refrigeration, so they're just rotting in the desert heat. And then there are the dye vats, full of nose-splitting chemicals. The worst part is the fact that children are used to dive into the vats and hold the skins under the liquids. There are blue, red, green and gold dyed children working there. A complete horror and exploitation. And then there's the ubiquitous smell of camel dung and the smell of the mountain Berbers that have an entirely different concept of hygene then most westerners. I think Serge's take is based purely on a spice market fantasia, which is fine with me.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 22nd October 2009 at 02:07 AM.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I toured Morocco once, Marrakech, Fez, Meknes, Rabat, and I did smell something that Serge hasn't touched on yet: the smell of the leather tanneries. In my entire life, I have never smelled anything more nauseating than the one in Marrakech. The raw skins are brought in with flesh still attached, piled up, with no refrigeration, so they're just rotting in the desert heat. And then there are the dye vats, full of nose-splitting chemicals. The worst part is the fact that children are used to dive into the vats and hold the skins under the liquids. There are blue, red, green and gold dyed children working there. A complete horror and exploitation. And then there's the ubiquitous smell of camel dung and the smell of the mountain Berbers that have an entirely different concept of hygene then most westerners. I think Serge's take is based purely on a spice market fantasia, which is fine with me.

    See ! All that wonderful inspiration ! (LOL)

    A nice leather scent for the next Lutens would be an excellent idea ! Perfect suggestion ! ... Daim Blond didn't have half enough leather in it for my satisfaction !

    And ... Oooh ... I want a purple kid as well now ! (Or a nice fuschia maybe ?? )
    Last edited by Sybarite; 22nd October 2009 at 03:01 AM.

  45. #45

    Talking Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I toured Morocco once, Marrakech, Fez, Meknes, Rabat, and I did smell something that Serge hasn't touched on yet: the smell of the leather tanneries. In my entire life, I have never smelled anything more nauseating than the one in Marrakech. The raw skins are brought in with flesh still attached, piled up, with no refrigeration, so they're just rotting in the desert heat. And then there are the dye vats, full of nose-splitting chemicals. The worst part is the fact that children are used to dive into the vats and hold the skins under the liquids. There are blue, red, green and gold dyed children working there. A complete horror and exploitation. And then there's the ubiquitous smell of camel dung and the smell of the mountain Berbers that have an entirely different concept of hygene then most westerners. I think Serge's take is based purely on a spice market fantasia, which is fine with me.
    Oh no. Aoud Cuir d' Arabie has already been done by Pierre Montale

  46. #46
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is Serge Lutens in a Rut?

    Quote Originally Posted by cpk View Post
    Oh no. Aoud Cuir d' Arabie has already been done by Pierre Montale
    Exactly what I was thinking. And a mighty fine fragrance it is (despite my knock at Montale in my earlier post).
    -

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