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  1. #1

    Exclamation Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I don't think that this has been mentioned yet, but the new edition of the guide (paperback) will be available as of next week (October 27th). As written on their website this will have all of the reviews from the three updates and expanded essays.

    http://www.amazon.com/Perfumes-Z-Gui.../dp/0143115014

  2. #2

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Thanks for the tip!

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Definitely! I like that it will be updated, and the paperback will be very convenient for toting around. My hardcover is a bit unwieldy, sometimes, and my Kindle version is unpredictable due to "power outages".
    * * * *

  4. #4

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    It hit the shops here a couple of weeks ago - it's great, does what it says and the paperback format is a better size to carry if you want to. But part of me is gonna miss trawling thru my little folders of A4 printouts from the pdfs and trying to remember which one was in which . . .

  5. #5

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I was hoping they'd update it one last time for the compiled version.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Yeh, would have been nice to see a few more just for the road.

    Trainspotter #1. Inhale. Changed the house credit to Be Never to Busy etc. but the review reads exactly the same word for word 'Having run out of empires . . . .' You would think editorial would pick up on this - LT & TS explained the error (BNTB samples came in same box as the Empires line etc.) in the quarterly but left the review as it was in the book. Petty peeve and no-one got killed but still. Regardless, thank goodness they wrote this thing - The Guide opened my eyes to this whole world - proud owner of the first copy to land here.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Hmmm, have to think about whether to shell out for this. Tempting. Thanks for the tip.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Considering I don't own a copy yet, I'm not ashamed to admit that this made me squeal like a little girl.
    Lena
    "Curiosity is insubordination in its purest form." - Alexander Skarsgård
    Looking to try Les Senteurs Gourmandes Musc Blanc, Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Intense, Chanel Beige and...everything else!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I hope the reviews for frags like Obsession for men and Polo Double Black will be expanded so that some discussion on the actual smell is included. Does anyone know?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Especially if it contains references to hard to find, limited edition and/or discontinued frags, it might be an interesting read to me.
    Currently wearing: Citrus & Wood by Yardley

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Oooooooo!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I already have it!! yay!!!

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I hope the reviews for frags like Obsession for men and Polo Double Black will be expanded so that some discussion on the actual smell is included. Does anyone know?
    No, they haven't been changed, and for more than one reason I never expected that to happen. I am glad Luca and Tania used the time available to add another 448 fragrances to The Guide instead! Amongst them are brands they hadn't covered before, like Histoires de Parfums (12 perfumes), or Parfumerie Generale (24 P) and outstanding perfumes from solid brands like Guerlain, Amouage, etc. If I wanted to, I could easily expose my own nose to Double Black (**sweet fougère) or Obsession (***cheap oriental) any day without much of a problem. Therefore I rather concentrate on reviews of classics missed before, like Knize Ten, and new ones, like Homage and Ubar by Amouage, or the Breath of God by Be never too Busy... - all fivers by the way.

    Last year I had been the only person pre-ordering the first edition, and the shop missed the delivery date by more than a month. So I didn't order in advance this time, and the same shop had a whole pile waiting for readers two weeks in advance! They say that this new A-Z Guide has been selling extremely well so far. I personally regret not to have a choice between hardcover or paperback but I can see why two versions are perhaps not possible. Unfortunately, there is not much space for annotations in this one, and I do not expect the paper to be ink-friendly either. I read paperbacks while commuting. They usually begin falling apart as soon as you open them wide enough to be held in one hand. And that's not good enough for a reference book, also not for the $30 it costs over here. The expanded reviews are as brilliant as before. The perfect Christmas gift for the right person - if you find a good excuse for the budget packaging or present it with the right bottle on top!
    Last edited by narcus; 27th October 2009 at 09:21 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Yes, but how hard could it be to add something like: "sickly blend of vanilla, coffee, mango, and pepper" to his PDB review (if that's what he thought about it - none of us knows what he thinks of the actual smell to this day!).

  15. #15

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    Yes, but how hard could it be to add something like: "sickly blend of vanilla, coffee, mango, and pepper" to his PDB review (if that's what he thought about it - none of us knows what he thinks of the actual smell to this day!).
    On the contrary, anyone who reads the review knows what Luca Turin thinks of the fragrance: He dislikes it.

    However, what the review does not do is substitute for the experience of smelling the fragrance for oneself. Indeed, no combination of words could do that.

    A restaurant critic does not tell us what steak tastes like, nor does he or she tell us how to grill it. He or she tells us whether, in his or her opinion, we should go to Delmonico's.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    It's been on sale over in the UK for just over a week now. I got my copy from Borders in Leeds where they were selling it for £3 off the cover price of £12.99.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  17. #17

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I recieved my copy today.
    There is additional material at the beginning as well as the new frag listings.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Prince Barry View Post
    It's been on sale over in the UK for just over a week now. I got my copy from Borders in Leeds where they were selling it for £3 off the cover price of £12.99.
    Probably because the 1st book, sold almost 3 times as much in the UK than it did in the States.

    I don't necessarily like the artwork for the paperback version (it's so 'focus group' looking) but I'm excited to get this when it's released in the US Amazon tomorrow.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  19. #19

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    "A restaurant critic does not tell us what steak tastes like, nor does he or she tell us how to grill it. He or she tells us whether, in his or her opinion, we should go to Delmonico's."

    I can't speak to restaurant critics, but LT does tell us what most of the frags he reviews smell like, so I have no idea what your point is.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Probably because the 1st book, sold almost 3 times as much in the UK than it did in the States.

    I don't necessarily like the artwork for the paperback version (it's so 'focus group' looking) but I'm excited to get this when it's released in the US Amazon tomorrow.
    Mike, I think that you would approve of the UK edition of the paperback. The artwork is much more subtle. Have a look at it on Amazon UK.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I can't wait for the new updated guide- like Redneck Perfumisto , I find the hardback version is very cumbersome .
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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I got mine yesterday and like others I was anticipating a paperback version just for the ease of use. Those of you who are on the fence need not worry this is a worthy addition, the new reviews are great and they have made a few corrections as well (e.g. LT now states that Kingdom 'Mercifully...flopped' rather than being discontinued). The A-Z guide by brand is really useful, it makes it easier to find reviews of your favourite brands.
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Prince Barry View Post
    Mike, I think that you would approve of the UK edition of the paperback. The artwork is much more subtle. Have a look at it on Amazon UK.
    Ah, you're right. It is.

    Gosh, we American's are so pitiful (if I may make a sweeping generalization) in our need to have books (or any media for that matter) dumbed down for us to be interested in them. If it is about fragrances and it doesn't resemble something that has been art directed to look like it belongs in Sephora or Target or WalMart, then it isn't going to sell. (sigh)
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  24. #24

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I was debating getting the old copy but never did, however with all your comments and the fact that it has been updated this is something I'm for sure going to buy...and it seems like a great price too!

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    I recieved my copy today.
    There is additional material at the beginning as well as the new frag listings.
    Yes, they more than doubled the contents in the chapter "Answers to Frequently Asked Questions". This is an important chapter even though some answers are more convincing than others. Example / TS / Guide A -Z/ p.53 :

    Q: "Why aren't fragrances marked as feminine or masculine ?"

    A:
    "... we sometimes mention the relative masculinity or femininity of a fragrance but that does not always coincide with expectations.
    Given the fact that fragrances have no genitalia we refuse to remark further. You can find lots of gender-differentiated lists of fragrances
    online if you are interested."
    - Mille Grazie, Tania, I would never have known !

    Five star perfumes can hardly be be missed now: subject reviews are printed on colored background.

    The original (Viking) Index of Star Ratings was complete with book page numbers. The new Index of Star Ratings in the A-Z Guide (expanded by Turin-Sanchez' quarterly publications of 2008/09) leaves it to the reader to find the review himself. A disservice on the part of Penguin!

    In the age of Power Point, Publisher and Open Office most readers are used to nicer presentations than was done for the Index of Brands. Already in her first Guide Excel book of Summer 2008 Rien has demonstrated what a detailed index could include. At minimum, a separate line for each perfume would have been helpful here. It would also have allowed to add page references as one would would expect to seen in any book's index. Again, poor editing service by Penguin. However, without that new index I would not have found the review of '1881' **** at all. The authors sometimes use an uncommon naming procedure: '1881' (BN Directory) is 'Cerruti 1881' in the Guide. Consequently you do not find it on page 69, between '1876' **** and '1969' **** (both perfumes are made by Histoires de Parfums)f but on page 166 between Bond9's 'Central Park' and Annick Goutal's 'Ce Soir ou Jamais'...

    Summing up my own experience with this guide during the past 18 months, I cannot help but notice that the feedback by fans and critics within BN and on other perfume fora have not resulted in a lot of conceptual changes but, thankfully, there were two important ones, and the Brand index is one of them.
    The shape of the new book and the presentation of contents could have been better for another dollar or two. Nevertheless, I am content to have all of those 1887 perfume reviews in one place now. Old and new reviews are often unique, sarcastic or witty, always honest, and all in all tremendously valuable! They are a challenge to a new generation of knowledgeable authors to start working from there.
    Last edited by narcus; 28th October 2009 at 06:02 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I hope the reviews for frags like Obsession for men and Polo Double Black will be expanded so that some discussion on the actual smell is included.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I can't speak to restaurant critics, but LT does tell us what most of the frags he reviews smell like, so I have no idea what your point is.
    My point is that Luca Turin's reviews of Obsession for Men and Polo Double Black are sufficient as they are. They do not need to "be expanded so that some discussion on the actual smell is included," because a critic's job is not description. On the contrary, a critic is "a person who is professionally engaged in the analysis and interpretation of works of art." Dr. Turin analyzed and interpreted these two fragrances, and found them to be wanting in aesthetic value. The reviews convey that conclusion to us with sufficient obviousness.

    We are certainly free to disagree with Dr. Turin's opinion. I personally find Obsession for Men to be a pleasant and unique fragrance, though not one I like enough to own.

    http://wordnetweb.princeton.edu/perl/webwn?s=critic

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I just got the paperback.

    Wow, it's HUGE. Very heavy. It'll take me a couple hours to sort through and find those 'new' additions. Fun!
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  28. #28

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    I'm going to go buy this at Chapters tonight! Can't wait!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Advocate View Post
    My point is that Luca Turin's reviews of Obsession for Men and Polo Double Black are sufficient as they are. They do not need to "be expanded so that some discussion on the actual smell is included," because a critic's job is not description. On the contrary, a critic is "a person who is professionally engaged in the analysis and interpretation of works of art." Dr. Turin analyzed and interpreted these two fragrances, and found them to be wanting in aesthetic value. The reviews convey that conclusion to us with sufficient obviousness.

    We are certainly free to disagree with Dr. Turin's opinion. I personally find Obsession for Men to be a pleasant and unique fragrance, though not one I like enough to own.

    http://wordnetweb.princeton.edu/perl/webwn?s=critic
    Your definition of "critic" is correct, if Luca Turin professes to be a perfume critic. I don't know if he's ever said that, and I have read pretty much all of his books that I can get my hands on.

    However, if you're a "perfume reviewer", which I am under the impression that LT and TS are, then I expect better descriptions of the perfume that lead to their opinion. Eg in their last edition, TS said "Joop Jump" is "Sad Cool Water clone".

    Which lead me to think that TS only smelled it on a smelling strip for 5 seconds and wrote that review before moving on to the next one; because they are nothing alike (I hate CW, love JJ - JJ is much more Woody Oriental, CW is Fougere). The point is, I expect more than those 4 words out of TS if she was a "perfume reviewer" reviewing perfumes; eg at least tell me why she thinks it's a CW clone and why it's inferior to CW to only give it 2 stars.
    Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
    A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
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  30. #30

    Default Re: Perfumes: the A-Z guide

    Quote Originally Posted by GourmandHomme View Post
    Eg in their last edition, TS said "Joop Jump" is "Sad Cool Water clone". Which lead me to think that TS only smelled it on a smelling strip for 5 seconds and wrote that review before moving on to the next one; because they are nothing alike (I hate CW, love JJ - JJ is much more Woody Oriental, CW is Fougere). The point is, I expect more than those 4 words out of TS if she was a "perfume reviewer" reviewing perfumes; eg at least tell me why she thinks it's a CW clone and why it's inferior to CW to only give it 2 stars.
    Is the essence of the criticism here really that Tania Sanchez was not verbose enough in her comparison of Joop Jump and Cool Water? I think that the crux of the criticism is really that she believes they are similar, and others do not.

    In that case, I would observe two things. First, her review was verbose enough as it is, since we clearly got the gist of her message. Second, had she written 20,000 words on the subject of Joop Jump smelling like Cool Water, people would still have disagreed with her. Which is entirely a good and proper thing to do. (Michael Edwards, by the way, agrees that Cool Water and Joop Jump belong in different categories.)

    However, I think that it is disingenuous -- or at least misdirected -- to attack the length of her prose rather than its conclusion.

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